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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Picked up a 2015 Manual Performance Pack in Competition Orange back in November. It came with a loud engine noise so I brought it home on a trailer. Title took a long time to sort out for various reasons so I didn't dig into it until recently. This will be my daily driver. Just sold off my 2018 ecoboost 3.5 F150.











Firstly, wow. Incredibly easy to pull the 4 cyl out of this car. Took me 4 hours from opening the hood to having it on a stand.





Spun rod bearing inside, so I tore the engine apart and ordered some goodies.









King bearings
ARP hardware
Manley rods and pistons
New Ford Performance crankshaft
Ford Performance camshafts
Fidanza flywheel
Spec stage 3+ clutch
Precision bolt-on turbo
Brian Crower head gasket
All new oem gaskets and seals
MAP valve spring kit
New oil pump, pickup, vvt solenoids, timing components, etc
Other stuff I'm probably forgetting

I know the bolt on precision is not much bigger than stock but I wanted something reliable and inexpensive and I couldn't bring myself to put a stock turbo on it. Not looking for much more peak power, just want the power-band moved up in the rpm's.

I have not ordered anything for port fueling yet but straight E85 is in the car's future.

Car came with:
Kooks turbo-back catted DP/ full exhaust
Mishimoto intercooler with hard piping
Some brand of warm air intake
Cobb Accessport

Goal of 11.99 @ 115mph

I have never driven this or any S550 mustang. Only mustang I have ridden in or driven is my 99' turbo GT. I hope I like it haha

I don't pretend to know what I'm doing so don't assume that I do. Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wow. That's a hell of a first post. Prolly best one I have seen. Can't see the pics though.

Welcome to the Forum. You might want to think about creating a thread in the introduction section.

Thanks for the heads up! I believe the pics should work now. I'll check out the introduction section.
 

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Cool start for a build. Looking forward to see your updates. Your goal is very achievable and more as long as you make sure the tune is spot on, and have all supporting mods, which you already have. Good luck. And yeah, a good tuner is a must.
 
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Wow. Great post with some great pics. Love seeing people dive into this engine. If you are swapping the turbo, you may wanna consider upgrading the throttle body, adding a manifold spacer, or even replacing the manifold with MAP's. Open up the volume of air you can take in after the turbo.
Very interested in hearing more about the FP crankshaft. I've read conflicting info, that this is simply the stock crankshaft resold, OR that it does increase your stroke size which then increases your RPMs with same detonation, no? The camshafts I've heard offer minimal gain. But hey, if you already have the engine out anyway....what the heck....GO FOR IT. Like I said....coool sh*t.
 

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Best of luck with the engine rebuild!
You seem to know what you are doing.
Keep us updated on the progress.
 

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Hey @Ecoboost how did you find the state of the top of the valves. That's obviously a car with some miles on it, that's been modded so I doubt it was driven by a granny. If you could take a pic of those valves and post it, you'd solve a lot of discussion that we'd had on catchcans and direct injection.

Much appreciated if you can get this one done!! :D:D:D:D:D:D:D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
...a good tuner is a must.
Going with either Tune+ or getting tuned on a Dyno locally.
...you may wanna consider upgrading the throttle body, adding a manifold spacer, or even replacing the manifold with MAP's...
...OR that [the crankshaft] does increase your stroke size which then increases your RPMs with same detonation, no?...but hey, if you already have the engine out anyway....what the heck....GO FOR IT. Like I said....coool sh*t.
Although I am spending a good amount on parts, I'm trying to spend as conservatively as possible. TB's, manifold spacers, and IM's aren't as cost effective on a turbo car as on a NA car, especially at my relatively low power goals. Trying to upgrade parts where I can without going overboard, at least for now.

As for the cams, they are very similar to the stock grind on the intake side. Slight increase in valve lift and a few more degrees of duration. The exhaust side also sees a slight increase in lift, however duration is raised up (relatively) considerably to match intake duration. 240 degrees on both instead of something like 236 intake vs 224 exhaust. A couple of my cam lobes had rusted tips, so I decided to try them out.

Best of luck with the engine rebuild!
You seem to know what you are doing.
Keep us updated on the progress.
Should be getting the rotating assembly back from my machine shop tomorrow along with finally getting my OEM valve seals in the mail so I should be able to make some progress soon!

Hey @Ecoboost how did you find the state of the top of the valves. That's obviously a car with some miles on it, that's been modded so I doubt it was driven by a granny. If you could take a pic of those valves and post it...
52,000 miles on the car. I didn't take any pictures of the valves, tappets, etc. before cleaning them. They were surprisingly thick with carbon buildup. Some valves had a few mm thick on the shafts, top of valves next to the mating surface where they seal were coated probably 1-1.5mm thick. Car has had a Mishimoto catch can on it basically forever.
 

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52,000 miles on the car. I didn't take any pictures of the valves, tappets, etc. before cleaning them. They were surprisingly thick with carbon buildup. Some valves had a few mm thick on the shafts, top of valves next to the mating surface where they seal were coated probably 1-1.5mm thick. Car has had a Mishimoto catch can on it basically forever.
That is really disheartening to hear. But I guess it is truly inevitable on these engines. We’ve had discussions as nauseum on this forum discussing how problematic carbon buildup on our valves is with the Ecoboost Mustang. Given what you saw, and any other experience with direct injection engines that you may have, how reliable do you think the valves will last before they will become problematic. Not long at all? Would a walnut blasting be definitively in my future if I opt to keep this car for over 100k miles? Thanks again for the feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got the bottom end put together. Rest of it tomorrow hopefully.


That is really disheartening to hear. But I guess it is truly inevitable on these engines. We’ve had discussions as nauseum on this forum discussing how problematic carbon buildup on our valves is with the Ecoboost Mustang. Given what you saw, and any other experience with direct injection engines that you may have, how reliable do you think the valves will last before they will become problematic. Not long at all? Would a walnut blasting be definitively in my future if I opt to keep this car for over 100k miles? Thanks again for the feedback.
In my experience, DI engines develop heavy deposits after 100k or so miles. This one seems excessive in my opinion, almost like a lot of oil was going through the intake from excessive blow-by or an improperly set-up pcv/ catch can system. I can't speak for all ecoboost mustangs but this one would be getting a clean soon from me anyways if it hadn't spun a rod bearing.
 

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2,000 miles on the car. I didn't take any pictures of the valves, tappets, etc. before cleaning them. They were surprisingly thick with carbon buildup. Some valves had a few mm thick on the shafts, top of valves next to the mating surface where they seal were coated probably 1-1.5mm thick. Car has had a Mishimoto catch can on it basically forever.
This really makes you wonder, if installing a catch can is really going to make a difference in the long term.
I know a lot of people install one, go to empty it, then say "see, look at all that oil its caught!"
However, if an analysis was done, most of what is collected in that oily residue is normal water condensation when the engine heats up from cold starts. :)
While it might make a small difference, eventually carbon deposits is going to build up on the back of the valves anyway.
That is why, Ford moved to dual-port injection on the 2018 GT's as the only real cure.
Hopefully, further generations of the Ecoboost will also see that technology.
 
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Just curious, but did you give any thought at all to going with a closed deck block instead of the stock block?
 

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Yeah, man, it'll be like this groovy Mustang commune. Peace, love, brotherhood, and turbos.
 

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I should have said I admire your handy work, and mechanical ability. Neat project. There seem to be some high performance engine parts in the classifieds right now, unless gone. Check it out. Sarge, I think you did too much LDS when you were younger.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just curious, but did you give any thought at all to going with a closed deck block instead of the stock block?
I thought about it briefly but I don't plan on big power with this, just wanted to put a little better parts on while I was in there. Won't be more than 500hp so I should be alright.

Yeah, man, it'll be like this groovy Mustang commune. Peace, love, brotherhood, and turbos.
I can't imagine living next to a house like that and watching 10 muatangs leave for work in the morning haha

I should have said I admire your handy work, and mechanical ability. Neat project. There seem to be some high performance engine parts in the classifieds right now, unless gone.
I appreciate the kind words! I'll check it out, although I have most everything I want for now.
 
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