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The general consensus seems to be that the stock intake is pretty good. Do you need something smaller than that?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
BEB1001C-78A5-4891-AC22-FBAE60F2451C.jpeg CB2A35C8-F12F-432F-8BA7-8540874C6E0A.jpeg 3DECF4A0-96A7-4461-A888-037017414488.jpeg DB808D0A-FE93-4A77-8B1B-6B64294B8F50.jpeg BEB1001C-78A5-4891-AC22-FBAE60F2451C.jpeg Oh I don’t doubt that the stock air routing is good, although my model won’t allow stock routes.....so here’s what we did. From throttle body across back of radiator up to and under the intercooler outlet, then back to the firewall and the K&N filter. It is surely not optimal and next Monday when we get it on the dyno we’ll find out just how restrictive this routing will impact performance (surely it will).
 

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Discussion Starter #23
4CB443AF-804C-444E-AC1A-CDE31D6A0B8D.jpeg 63F427BD-B548-48B1-8E1B-419E5887E9ED.jpeg 084B218B-9DEC-4F8E-A861-39C286053998.jpeg And for those of you with an inquisitive mind....for the IAT, I had to fab a connection, an hour with some jewelers files, a reamed out SS nut, some really amateur TIG welding and it works. Also, if you’re sill curious....the IAT is a two wire RTD, so you can shorten the leads if you’re doing a custom installation. Since the IAT is a twist lock, I first cut that funny looking hour glass shape in the SS pipes then added the nut so the O-ring on the sensor had a seat to seal upon and allow for a shoulder for the IAT to rest and provide a stop position when turning to lock. If you look at the previous post, you’ll see it at the filter inlet....haven’t shortened the wires in that photo...
 

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for those of you doing a crate motor using the ford performance control pack, if you don’t need vacuum for a power booster or other vacuum accessory.....you’ll have to remove the cam driven vac pump since leaving the suction port open will simply pressurize the crankcase.
i used a vacuum cap secured with a zip tie to plug the vacuum pump inlet. i've been racing it like this for a full season with no issues. a mechanical vacuum pump on a boosted engine is a great innovation, but venting it to the valve cover, not so much.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I’ll agree with Racer17, I didn’t understand why it wouldn’t have been better to vent to atmosphere. I wonder If just plugging it caused you some horsepower loss though....anyway, we made a test drive...
 

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any horsepower loss is negligible. the block off kit is made for space constraints and to tidy up the engine compartment, not to recover HP.
 

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So, Ford tech sent a cooling flow diagram, our concern was item 11 and thanks to “Ecoboost”, one more connection was made. Ford tech also confirmed the PCV connection on the engine side of the throttle body but not the engine connection which we suspect is that rear connection. Also our pressure regulator sensing port on the intake was confirmed. Getting ready to pull plugs and rotate for oil pressure check.....yes!!!
Could you please post a photo of the PCV connection?
Also on the Engine it is the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor it has 4 pins and the hole distance from the sensor to the holding hole are not the same as the MAPS (Manifold Absolute pressure sensor CX-2522 1X that is provided with the control pack, So where is installed the CX-2522 1X? There is a cable with 3 conductors on the control pack harness that should go to CX-2522 1X but the fixing hole is not at the same position on the manifold.
laser3Lc at laser3Lc puntk com. Thanks
 
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