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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, yesterday after accelerating from a red light my car made a noise like something under the hood went loose and started making a noise like it sucking air when pushing the gas. Popped the hood to see if there was anything wrong but it was way too dark to see. Today when I turned on the car to warm up it made the same nose on start up and then got quiet. I would like to add that the car is stock and recently I had my shortblock replaced it was working fine since then. Also no engine light as of now and decided not to drive the car until I find what the issue is.

I attached two of the videos where you can hear the noise when accelerating and another one when I started my car to warm up before going to work.
Air being sucked when accelerating
Air being sucked on cold start
 

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Two things. (Thank for making the videos. I wish everyone coming here with a problem would do that right off the bat.)

1. Are you making boost? The sucking sound during acceleration seems to me you may have a boost leak somewhere? Check that your intake, hot pipe, IC, and intercooler are all properly connected at the junction points. If you had a shortblock replacement, and had to have everything put back together again, its quite possible they didn't tighten everything up somewhere along the intake tract as it should be.

2. The sucking sound during startup is "usually" normal as the PCM kicks the RPMs up for a warm up before it drops back down to about 700-800K. However, its probably being exacerbated with you because of the boost leak I think you may have on #1 above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Two things. (Thank for making the videos. I wish everyone coming here with a problem would do that right off the bat.)

1. Are you making boost? The sucking sound during acceleration seems to me you may have a boost leak somewhere? Check that your intake, hot pipe, IC, and intercooler are all properly connected at the junction points. If you had a shortblock replacement, and had to have everything put back together again, its quite possible they didn't tighten everything up somewhere along the intake tract as it should be.

2. The sucking sound during startup is "usually" normal as the PCM kicks the RPMs up for a warm up before it drops back down to about 700-800K. However, its probably being exacerbated with you because of the boost leak I think you may have on #1 above.
Adding the videos is least I could do to make it easier for anyone trying to help lol.
Yesterday when this happened I kept an eye on my boost when accelerating and the needle would move from vacuum to 0 and stay at the middle and barely move past there. Also yes the noise on cold start is definitely louder than usual. I ended up not driving the car to work because im scared something will go bad. Do you have any reference on where exactly I should look for? not very experienced with this since its my first car.
 

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It definitely sounds like a boost leak and believe you will find a hose loose/off at either the turbo inlet portion of the pipe coming from the air cleaner assy or more likely the turbo outlet charge pipe at the turbo charge side. With the hood open and engine running it should be quite easy to find the source of the leak since you should near a loud sucking/blowing air noise at the source. I am betting on it being somewhere between the turbo outlet to IC inlet, IC outlet to throttle body inlet since you state you have no positive boost above 0 on the gauge readout in dash.

BD
 

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Adding the videos is least I could do to make it easier for anyone trying to help lol.
Yesterday when this happened I kept an eye on my boost when accelerating and the needle would move from vacuum to 0 and stay at the middle and barely move past there. Also yes the noise on cold start is definitely louder than usual. I ended up not driving the car to work because im scared something will go bad. Do you have any reference on where exactly I should look for? not very experienced with this since its my first car.
Good investment for any car owner, and especially a first time car owner, is a set of Ford Shop Repair Manuals!
I picked mine up used, on eBay.
 

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Adding the videos is least I could do to make it easier for anyone trying to help lol.
Yesterday when this happened I kept an eye on my boost when accelerating and the needle would move from vacuum to 0 and stay at the middle and barely move past there. Also yes the noise on cold start is definitely louder than usual. I ended up not driving the car to work because im scared something will go bad. Do you have any reference on where exactly I should look for? not very experienced with this since its my first car.
Grab a flashlight and check the air intake connection into the front of the turbo, then check the turbo connection into the "hot pipe" (the black plastic J-pipe with the 3 corrugations), then check the "hot pipe" connection into the intercooler down below. Walk over to the driver side and check the intercooler connection to the "cold pipe" (the black silicone pipe); again, it will be down below. Finally check the "cold pipe" connection into the throttle body (this connections into your manifold).

LIke @Buldawg76 said, a clamp probably popped open somewhere. Its an easy fix. Let us know if you need further details. We're happy to help.
 

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So, yesterday after accelerating from a red light my car made a noise like something under the hood went loose and started making a noise like it sucking air when pushing the gas. Popped the hood to see if there was anything wrong but it was way too dark to see. Today when I turned on the car to warm up it made the same nose on start up and then got quiet. I would like to add that the car is stock and recently I had my shortblock replaced it was working fine since then. Also no engine light as of now and decided not to drive the car until I find what the issue is.

I attached two of the videos where you can hear the noise when accelerating and another one when I started my car to warm up before going to work.
Air being sucked when accelerating
Air being sucked on cold start
Curious... What was wrong with your original engine's short block? And who did the replacement?

PS: Smart thinking, parking your car till your able to properly troubleshoot your car! Also, some codes have to be recorded more than once, before activating the dash light. You may want to check your ECU for pending codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Curious... What was wrong with your original engine's short block? And who did the replacement?

PS: Smart thinking, parking your car till your able to properly troubleshoot your car! Also, some codes have to be recorded more than once, before activating the dash light. You may want to check your ECU for pending codes.
I took it to my ford dealership and they found coolant leaking inside the engine. They said I would get an updated short block covered under warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It definitely sounds like a boost leak and believe you will find a hose loose/off at either the turbo inlet portion of the pipe coming from the air cleaner assy or more likely the turbo outlet charge pipe at the turbo charge side. With the hood open and engine running it should be quite easy to find the source of the leak since you should near a loud sucking/blowing air noise at the source. I am betting on it being somewhere between the turbo outlet to IC inlet, IC outlet to throttle body inlet since you state you have no positive boost above 0 on the gauge readout in dash.

BD
Thank you this helps a lot
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Grab a flashlight and check the air intake connection into the front of the turbo, then check the turbo connection into the "hot pipe" (the black plastic J-pipe with the 3 corrugations), then check the "hot pipe" connection into the intercooler down below. Walk over to the driver side and check the intercooler connection to the "cold pipe" (the black silicone pipe); again, it will be down below. Finally check the "cold pipe" connection into the throttle body (this connections into your manifold).

LIke @Buldawg76 said, a clamp probably popped open somewhere. Its an easy fix. Let us know if you need further details. We're happy to help.
Thanks for going in detail
Grab a flashlight and check the air intake connection into the front of the turbo, then check the turbo connection into the "hot pipe" (the black plastic J-pipe with the 3 corrugations), then check the "hot pipe" connection into the intercooler down below. Walk over to the driver side and check the intercooler connection to the "cold pipe" (the black silicone pipe); again, it will be down below. Finally check the "cold pipe" connection into the throttle body (this connections into your manifold).

LIke @Buldawg76 said, a clamp probably popped open somewhere. Its an easy fix. Let us know if you need further details. We're happy to help.
Damn thanks for going in detail it will help me a lot. If it is a clamp that popped open should I just get a new one and make sure its tight?
 

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Thanks for going in detail

Damn thanks for going in detail it will help me a lot. If it is a clamp that popped open should I just get a new one and make sure its tight?
I changed out the factory clamps for aftermarket clamps... I think they were called T-bolt??
Sorry, it's been a few years!
 

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Looked it up, it is called a t-bolt clamp. How difficult would it be to change them myself?
I think they are easier to work with then the OEM clamps. I use a 1/4 inch drive racket with a short extension and either an 8mm or 10mm socket.
 

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T-bolt clamps are better, but not really necessary if you still have the factory charge pipes and intercooler. See if you can locate the problem area, let us know, and we can help you get it solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
T-bolt clamps are better, but not really necessary if you still have the factory charge pipes and intercooler. See if you can locate the problem area, let us know, and we can help you get it solved.
So I found one of the pipes to the turbo is loose. Should I be able to use the clamps on there to attach it again?
 

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Looks like both hot and cold charge pipes need a little attention. The hot side charge pipe is between the turbo and intercooler, looks like that is where your large leak was, and the cold side is the pipe between the Intercooler and thottle body, looks like you may have minor leakage.
You also have two connections underneath that may also be loose, your will probably need to crawl underneath to check them.
 

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So I found one of the pipes to the turbo is loose. Should I be able to use the clamps on there to attach it again?
Yes absolutely. Don't use a flathead screwdriver. Go ahead and find either a wrench or better yet a ratchet with a socket (looks like it might be 7mm) to fit over that turn bolt. Loosen it up a bit, and then fit the entire sleeve so that it sits flush on the turbo outlet. You're gonna wanna tighten those bolt really good. You're gonna wanna apply enough force and torque on it until you get almost no resistance back from the bolt. I doubt you gotta worry about 'warping' the turbo outlet with a 7mm worm clamp. I could be wrong though. Maybe @Buldawg76 or @Coyote Chaser can offer the amount of force you wanna strive for. But I personally dont' think you have to worry too much about it. I've really applied some force on mine and I have yet to warp anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looks like both hot and cold charge pipes need a little attention. The hot side charge pipe is between the turbo and intercooler, looks like that is where your large leak was, and the cold side is the pipe between the Intercooler and thottle body, looks like you may have minor leakage.
You also have two connections underneath that may also be loose, your will probably need to crawl underneath to check them.
Yeah I remember hearing the loud air coming somewhere close to the turbo and the pipe is all the way out. Wasnt able to see it yesterday because it was very dark. Will try to get them in right now and see if I hear any air
 
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