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Also this one seems to be a bit out should I try to put it all the way in?
If you wanna hit it up too, then have at it. This should all be good learning. But Im pretty sure you found your problem at the turbo outlet. You can take a mulligan and just keep it in the back of your mind if you lose pressure again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yes absolutely. Don't use a flathead screwdriver. Go ahead and fine either a wrench or better yet a ratchet with a socket (looks like it might be 7mm) to fit over that turn bolt. Loosen it up a bit, and then fit the entire sleeve so that it sits flush on the turbo outlet. You're gonna wanna tighten those bolt really good. You're gonna wanna apply enough force and torque on it until you get almost no resistance back from the bolt. I doubt you gotta worry about 'warping' the turbo outlet with a 7mm worm clamp. I could be wrong though. Maybe @Buldawg76 or @Coyote Chaser can offer the amount of force you wanna strive for. But I personally think you have to worry too much about it. I've really applied some force on mine and I have yet to warp anything.
Alright will give it a try in a bit and see if theres any more air leaking, will keep yall updated.
 

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FWIW, I've "popped" the clamps on different parts of my intake tract so many times, its become an art trying to keep it all tight and to spec. It really isn't a big deal now that you know what to look for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
FWIW, I've "popped" the clamps on different parts of my intake tract so many times, its become an art trying to keep it all tight and to spec. It really isn't a big deal now that you know what to look for.
Seems like I might have to get used to it until I get better charge pipes. This is the second time I have posted on here for help and yall have been great and I really appreciate. Means a lot when you are trying to learn how to take care of your first car. @gatornek @Buldawg76 @Coyote Chaser thanks a lot. Im about to work on this. Is it fine to turn the car on after im done to see if I can hear any air noise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
FWIW, I've "popped" the clamps on different parts of my intake tract so many times, its become an art trying to keep it all tight and to spec. It really isn't a big deal now that you know what to look for.
I checked my oil stick and im not sure if is possible my car lost oil from this happening. Also theres a black spot underneath the car but not too sure if it is from the car
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Just finished tightening the clamps on the pipes. Put as much pressure as I could without breaking it so hopefully it is fine but I checked the oil stick and it seems like it has very little or none and my stepdad is telling me not to turn on the car because it might mess up the engine
 

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Just loosen the clamps and make sure the hoses get fully seated back on the turbo and throttle body fully and use a socket and rachet to tighten the worm clamps till you feel they don't want to turn easily anymore, and the end of the clamps is starting to veer off to the side some indicating the clamp is as tight as it came be before it starts to distort.

T clamps would be a worthwhile up grade for sure.

BD
 
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I checked my oil stick and im not sure if is possible my car lost oil from this happening. Also theres a black spot underneath the car but not too sure if it is from the car
Add about a quart or more of 5W-30 oil to bring to the full mark on dipstick and start to see if the noise/0 boost issue is fixed. Then monitor oil, level every day when cold to see if it's using oil or leaking.

BD
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Just loosen the clamps and make sure the hoses get fully seated back on the turbo and throttle body fully and use a socket and rachet to tighten the worm clamps till you feel they don't want to turn easily anymore, and the end of the clamps is starting to veer off to the side some indicating the clamp is as tight as it came be before it starts to distort.

T clamps would be a worthwhile up grade for sure.

BD
Yep, made sure to get them as tight as possible and will make sure to get t clamps soon to swap them
 

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Just finished tightening the clamps on the pipes. Put as much pressure as I could without breaking it so hopefully it is fine but I checked the oil stick and it seems like it has very little or none and my stepdad is telling me not to turn on the car because it might mess up the engine
Feel free to add some oil to the car to get it to a good level. If you’ve been letting the dealer
Change your oil, then they’ve been probably using Motorcraft 5w-30 synthetic blend unless you specifically asked for full synthetic. The dealer probably did not properly add oil after changing the short block. I would definitely take a picture of that dipstick and let them know. The clamps popping off is not too big a deal, but this is definitely something you should give them a piece of your mind about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Add about a quart or more of 5W-30 oil to bring to the full mark on dipstick and start to see if the noise/0 boost issue is fixed. Then monitor oil, level every day when cold to see if it's using oil or leaking.

BD
Alright will do that, thank you man :)
Feel free to add some oil to the car to get it to a good level. If you’ve been letting the dealer
Change your oil, then they’ve been probably using Motorcraft 5w-30 synthetic blend unless you specifically asked for full synthetic. The dealer probably did not properly add oil after changing the short block. I would definitely take a picture of that dipstick and let them know. The clamps popping off is not too big a deal, but this is definitely something you should give them a piece of your mind about.
I didnt ask them for full synthetic. Do I have to use motorcraft 5w-30 synthetic blend specifically?
 

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I most definitely would. I wouldn’t want to mix oil brands (each oil has different formulations) even if they are both 5w-30 synthetic blend. Oil is the critical lifeblood of our engines. Never take chances with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Feel free to add some oil to the car to get it to a good level. If you’ve been letting the dealer
Change your oil, then they’ve been probably using Motorcraft 5w-30 synthetic blend unless you specifically asked for full synthetic. The dealer probably did not properly add oil after changing the short block. I would definitely take a picture of that dipstick and let them know. The clamps popping off is not too big a deal, but this is definitely something you should give them a piece of your mind about.
This is what the dipstick looks like right now, havent turned on the car. Im still going to get the oil you said, they have it at a close auto store and I didnt ask for full synthetic. Also I found the invoice I got from ford and it shows they used 5w30 Motorcraft SAE 10w-30 API GF-6. I attached a picture of it too
 

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This is what the dipstick looks like right now, havent turned on the car. Im still going to get the oil you said, they have it at a close auto store and I didnt ask for full synthetic. Also I found the invoice I got from ford and it shows they used 5w30 Motorcraft SAE 10w-30 API GF-6. I attached a picture of it too
That picture of the jug is the motor oil you should be using. It's hard to tell because the motor oil looks fresh, but in your first pictures from last night the dipstick looked bone dry...but in your recent on here, it looks like there's a fair amount.
 

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The last pics of your oil dipstick shows about a quart low so adding one quart should bring it to the full mark. Yes the jug of oil you pictured is the motorcraft oil you should use.

All above advice is also very good.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
That picture of the jug is the motor oil you should be using. It's hard to tell because the motor oil looks fresh, but in your first pictures from last night the dipstick looked bone dry...but in your recent on here, it looks like there's a fair amount.
So I lifted my car and found there is a bunch of oil leaking underneath and I seen it dripping on the floor. Then checked from inside the engine bay on the back side and there is oil there too. Also coolant which was the problem to my shortblock being replaced seems to be kinda low now. Im thinking the dealer messed up something. Im going to call them right now and have them tow it so they can actually fix it.
 

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Im going to call them right now and have them tow it so they can actually fix it.
Im thinking that's a good idea. I'd also call up Ford customer service and let them know what's going on. Give 'em a piece of your mind and don't be shy! Dealers should be able to honestly fulfill warranty work!
 

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Definitely get on the dealer for poor workmanship and quality control since with a new short block you should have zero leak/consumption issues of any fluids. Start a case with ford customer service also.

BD
 
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