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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You know, in the back of my mind, I was always like..."if you hold on to this car long enough", it will probably happen to you. I wonder if it just did.

On my way home after picking up my kid yesterday evening, I rounded a corner and heard a loud pop and hiss. I immediately thought I must have blown out a tire, but the car was stable. Immediately pulled into a parking lot, got out, checked all 4 tires...perfect. Well then, lets pop the hood. Did so, and saw that the hot pipe was off of the turbo compressor. With the baby in the car, didn't want to deal with it right then and there, so limped her home. However with daylight dwindling, had to leave it for today.

Once I gave her a better inspection, I noticed that the hot pipe basically came off at both ends, which was weird. So had to jack her up, and take off the splash shield to get a better look. At the compressor end of the hotpipe, didn't like the fact that there was some oily residue all over the lip of the turbo. However, inside the compressor it was bone dry. But on the other end, as soon as I took off the splash shield, I absolutely didn't like what I saw:
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A small puddle of oil right where the hotpipe meets the intercooler.

Broke out my flashlight and checked everywhere for a possible crack in the cylinder, or anywhere that so much oil could get out, but could not find anything obvious. However, it did seem that the feed line to the turbo was much dirtier than usual, but nothing that was an obvious leak.

I obviously didn't like this, but as I couldn't see anything else, I buttoned the hotpipe back up, so I could run the engine.

And this is what is giving me even more dread now, as this is what I saw when I went to check the oil dipstick.

I will say two things as of right now.

One is that oil pressure looks okay. It was sitting at about 40psi right after it got warm, and increased up to 60 when I revved it a bit.
The second is that I don't seem to have any smoke coming from the tailpipe.

As soon as the car cools down a bit later, I will check the plugs to get some more info....but I am obviously open to opinions from what you might think?

Blown turbo seal? Blown gasket?

There are NO CEL's being lit up. I'll hook up my ODB dongle a little later too, to see if any codes pop.

I'll tell you right now, the car has 57K miles on it, but it was manufactured in March of 2016, so I'm JUST over warranty (doesn't it ALWAYS work out that way 馃槱), so if this is some extensive sh!t, I have half a mind to drive it over to Carmax and see if they miss it....especially if there are no CELS. And basicallly drive away with something else. I'm not going to play games with this car. It's been fun, but the fun might be over?
 

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pull plugs and inspect, that would be my first choice, then I would carmax/carvanavroom it if you have any fears of issues.

honestly, once they get it, its their problem. if it drives/etc but I am hoping this is something easily fixed and not catastrophic
 

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I dont know if mine does that with the oil cap off... I dont really want to try.
id be tossing your vin in carmax/carvana now for those quotes, if you dont reply, I guess they bump your offer up another 500/1000 in a few days I have been reading on m6g
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I dont know if mine does that with the oil cap off
It's not the oil cap, its the dipstick. Somehow, I just don't think that's normal behavior for checking oil with the car running. Is it??? I usually just check the oil right after an oil change. Sometimes not even then. I religiously change the oil at the dealership every 5K, so I've never thought much about it. Since I haven't driven much since the pandemic started, I've only had about one, maybe two oil changes in the past 18 months. Can't remember the last time I checked it with the car running, or if I ever have with the car running. It just so happened to play out that way right now, and the "coincidence of issues" has really raised a red flag with me. That was an awful lot of oil at the bottom of the hotpipe. Pretty sure that's what helped cause the couplers to slip off.
 

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I think if there's oil in charge pipe, then it is indeed a turbo seal. thats only way it can get in there in my mind

but. you can buy a turbo off parts groups for like 200 bucks take off, I see them all the time.
 

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It's not the oil cap, its the dipstick. Somehow, I just don't think that's normal behavior for checking oil with the car running. Is it??? I usually just check the oil right after an oil change. Sometimes not even then. I religiously change the oil at the dealership every 5K, so I've never thought much about it. Since I haven't driven much since the pandemic started, I've only had about one, maybe two oil changes in the past 18 months. Can't remember the last time I checked it with the car running, or if I ever have with the car running. It just so happened to play out that way right now, and the "coincidence of issues" has really raised a red flag with me. That was an awful lot of oil at the bottom of the hot pipe. Pretty sure that's what helped cause the couplers to slip off.
Totally normal, I wouldn't worry about that part. That's why we put on the oil catch cans, that's the oil vapor the screen in the catch can collects and keeps from getting into the engine. If you're not running a catch can, that smoke is why the intake valves get dirty.

Are you running an aftermarket blow off valve? I have had the boost tubes on mine slowly back off with the stock hose clamps; maybe that's all you're running into. With that pan off it should be pretty easy to check the cold side charge pipes to see if they are starting to slip off. Fingers crossed, you just blew the charge pipe off and there is a little residual oil.
 

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Totally normal, I wouldn't worry about that part. That's why we put on the oil catch cans, that's the oil vapor the screen in the catch can collects and keeps from getting into the engine. If you're not running a catch can, that smoke is why the intake valves get dirty.

Are you running an aftermarket blow off valve? I have had the boost tubes on mine slowly back off with the stock hose clamps; maybe that's all you're running into. With that pan off it should be pretty easy to check the cold side charge pipes to see if they are starting to slip off. Fingers crossed, you just blew the charge pipe off and there is a little residual oil.
thats what ive been reading oil residue in charge pipes lack of catch can etc. nothing about damage/permenant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
From the search that @FreedomPenguin provided, it seems like this might boil down to a POSSIBLE pcv issue. It's just that I've worked on getting the charge pipes on/off on a handful of occasions, and this is BY FAR, the most oil I've ever seen accumulated. I'm wondering if my aftermarket DP (which I just put on a couple of months ago has anything to do with it?). FWIW, I did run a 'boost side' or 'clean side' or 'passenger side' Ford Performance catch can (whatever you wanna call it) but ended up taking it off since it was popping a CEL every now and again plus it was bone dry everytime I checked it. The only catchcan I'm running now is the 'idle side/diry side/driver side' that connects to the
throttlebody. But if oil or blowby is getting into the compressor then hotside pipe, it has to be via the passenger side hose.

Here are my plugs. I pulled them. They look okay. Thank God I had some plugs on standby that I was being lazy about putting in. Finally checked the gaps on them and installed them!

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My car ran great with the downpipe, I only took it off because I saw my trims was considerably higher than when I had oem downpipe, so I wimped out and put oem back on. sold the pipe basically free, 100 bucks. lost hundreds in my exhaust work, but after going back to oem, I lost my sound, but I gained some sanity of worrying about blowing.

there's something to be said about "wondering" if somethings going to go wrong, it sounded so good! so I was romping on it ALOT. now I romp on it, I feel a little weaker, and less sound. but im not being encouraged to abuse it as much, and that in itself with the basically 0 fuel trims, makes me feel more confident long haul. but I ran it for a long while.

but I also removed the CPE intake, that thing sucked ass.i have so much better IAT's with oem box + afe filter, I cannot believe I fell for the hype. but it is what it is. looked cool, but useless
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, so I think we're getting somewhere now. Everything that I've been reading has been pointing me to the PCV. So I checked my catchcan.

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This is BY FAR, the most blow by residue I've ever caught...and not only that....BUT I JUST EMPTIED IT LAST OIL CHANGE, WHICH WAS ONLY 2K MILES AGO!!

It's basically more than twice the amount of catch I normally get in less than half the time!

So something is up that i'm getting more blowby now...which Im thinking has caused the top pcv valve to be more in use, thus causing more blowby to go out that, into my intake, through the compressor, and into the hot pipe.

Am I making logical sense here??

Could my piston rings just be worn out form 57K miles and this is now normal blowby for me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
so I was romping on it ALOT. now I romp on it, I feel a little weaker, and less sound. but im not being encouraged to abuse it as much
This would be the case for me now too.

Also, your warranty is from date of purchase, not date of manufacture.
That is good to know. I bought my car "used" with 4K miles on it. Do you know where I can find the 'date of purchase' at?
 

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Ok, so I think we're getting somewhere now. Everything that I've been reading has been pointing me to the PCV. So I checked my catchcan.

View attachment 39920

This is BY FAR, the most blow by residue I've ever caught...and not only that....BUT I JUST EMPTIED IT LAST OIL CHANGE, WHICH WAS ONLY 2K MILES AGO!!

It's basically more than twice the amount of catch I normally get in less than half the time!

So something is up that i'm getting more blowby now...which Im thinking has caused the top pcv valve to be more in use, thus causing more blowby to go out that, into my intake, through the compressor, and into the hot pipe.

Am I making logical sense here??

Could my piston rings just be worn out form 57K miles and this is now normal blowby for me?

Nope. you are correct, I was getting like a shot glass worth in 10k miles with FP tune and oem downpipe. after I put CVFab catted, I got a shot glass in 2k miles.

definitely, more power, is pushing more oil out. no doubt about it. think of all the pro tuned guys, those guy are literally showing gelato containers in like 2-3k miles

I dont think your engine is harmed at the moment. honestly I think its prob fine, but.... I went back to oem. the itch cost me 500-600 bucks in the end all said done. it ran fine, but that worry in back of mind was there after awhile. mire pressure must mean more blo by in all sum of things
 

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@FreedomPenguin What do you mean your trims were too high with the downpipe? I am considering a downpipe for performance because the oem cat is presumably the most restrictive component of the exhaust but not wanting to run an aggressive tune for longevity.
 

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@FreedomPenguin What do you mean your trims were too high with the downpipe? I am considering a downpipe for performance because the oem cat is presumably the most restrictive component of the exhaust but not wanting to run an aggressive tune for longevity.
I will tell ya exactly.


with my oem downpipe, my fuel trims are like 0-1 short term and 0-1 long term in general, both together never exceeding like 3-4 unless there's like a 40 degree difference in days, then it'll subtract 3-5% or add 3-5% short term trimming.


so imagine +/- 0/1% stf and same for LTFT. basically zero out on the highway with very little if any adjustments at any time

with downpipe.. it ran good, but man, it was completely off the wall, it was like 12-20% trimming, like ive seen 12 STFT and 12% LTFT.

it was seriously, trimming hard. no CEL', but my rear bumper started getting extremely sooty. I had wipe off my grabber blue rear valence people with degreaser ,had a large amount of black soot from it running rich/adding trims when I pulled my o2 sensor, it was like completely black. another member sent me his oem with some miles on it, and it was a diamond compared to my piece of gold.

so yeah, I won't be doing the DP route ever again.

FP + intercooler, drop in filter, BOV, charge pipes if you want (I needed a cold air charge pipe for his bov) I am extremely pleased


power wise, they both felt good. but I will say idle with OEM downpipe is just smoother, no way around it. unless you porotune, dont do it.

also the catch can thing, I was blowing way more oil out with catch can.

that said, it ran just fine.
 
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