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I have a 2016 mustang ecoboost automatic. I already had a mbrp race series cat back exhaust system installed. I just recently installed a SR performance cold air intake and Boomba Bov adapter. Other than that the car is stock. No tune, no downpipe, nothing else. If I'm in regular drive mode and I get on the gas, as soon as the boost gauges hits about 15 psi, it starts to flutter and it sounds like the exhaust is back firing. The car used to get to almost 23 psi before the upgrade. I only have pretty basic car knowledge, so any help I can get would be appreciated!
 

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Did you do the installs yourself? How many miles does the car have on it? Have you had it since new? If not, how long have you had it? Was EVERYTHING perfect with the driving since you've owned it, up and until the installs? The answers to those questions will help out a bit. But just going off of your modifications, this could possibly be caused by either an improperly installed exhaust and having an exhaust leak somewhere, or an improperly installed BOV, in particular if its the mechanical, and not the electrical operating kind. But it could possibly be a multitude of other things ...
 

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I'm not sure about the exhaust backfiring, but I ran into an issue a while ago where I could only hit about 17 psi. This came after I did a fair number of upgrades including an SR Performance CAI and Cobb stage 3 tune. What I found was that the stock DV couldn't hold that level of boost anymore. When I upgraded to a DV+ kit it started functioning correctly again.
 
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Did you do the installs yourself? How many miles does the car have on it? Have you had it since new? If not, how long have you had it? Was EVERYTHING perfect with the driving since you've owned it, up and until the installs? The answers to those questions will help out a bit. But just going off of your modifications, this could possibly be caused by either an improperly installed exhaust and having an exhaust leak somewhere, or an improperly installed BOV, in particular if its the mechanical, and not the electrical operating kind. But it could possibly be a multitude of other things ...
I'm not sure about the exhaust backfiring, but I ran into an issue a while ago where I could only hit about 17 psi. This came after I did a fair number of upgrades including an SR Performance CAI and Cobb stage 3 tune. What I found was that the stock DV couldn't hold that level of boost anymore. When I upgraded to a DV+ kit it started functioning correctly again.
Would i still need or be able to use the BOV adapter?
 

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Would i still need or be able to use the BOV adapter?
I'm the second owner of the vehicle. I bought it with 9000 miles and I currently have 29500 miles. There were no previous upgrades to the vehicle. Everything was fine until the air intake and the bov adapter was installed. I've had the exhaust on the car for about a year now. No problems, no check engine lights.
 

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You should be able to use both, though space might be a concern. Both the adapter and the DV+ kit add to the height of the DV, so it could come in contact with the CAI. I'm not sure how much room there is since I didn't have a BOV adapter and have since moved on to aftermarket charge pipes and a cold side BOV. I think GFB also makes a DV+ kit that includes a built in BOV vent if you're willing to part with the Boomba adapter.
 

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I'm the second owner of the vehicle. I bought it with 9000 miles and I currently have 29500 miles. There were no previous upgrades to the vehicle. Everything was fine until the air intake and the bov adapter was installed. I've had the exhaust on the car for about a year now. No problems, no check engine lights.
Which aftermarket BOV adapter is it?
 

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Did you simply install the Boomba SPACER and not actually replace the actual valve assembly?? The "spacer" simply pushes your stock valve away from your hotsidepipe some, so your charge "vents", instead of hitting the recirculating tube. If you replaced the entire valve assembly, did you use Boomba's "mechanical" valve, or their "electrical" valve?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did you simply install the Boomba SPACER and not actually replace the actual valve assembly?? If you replaced the entire valve assembly, did you use Boomba's "mechanical" valve, or their "electrical" valve.
Just the spacer
 

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Just the spacer
Is there any chance at all you didn't reconnect the electrical clip back to the valve when you were done, making sure that it is correctly snapped and seated into place?
 

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Is there any chance at all you didn't reconnect the electrical clip back to the valve when you were done, making sure that it is correctly snapped and seated into place?
So update, my cars check engine light came on this morning and was just able to have someone read it. I thought I mentioned it early but now I have the actual codes. On my way home from work I let my car warm up and was able to hit 20 psi like I used to with no problems. No fluttering no lose of power. So at this point I'm confused and trying to give as much information to you guys as possible
36505
 

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So update, my cars check engine light came on this morning and was just able to have someone read it. I thought I mentioned it early but now I have the actual codes. On my way home from work I let my car warm up and was able to hit 20 psi like I used to with no problems. No fluttering no lose of power. So at this point I'm confused and trying to give as much information to you guys as possible
View attachment 36505
Much more info! Now we're talking. Yeah, this has nothing to do with your boomba spacer. I'd replace the plugs if you haven't done so in a while, and in particular if you've never done so.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Much more info! Now we're talking. Yeah, this has nothing to do with your boomba spacer. I'd replace the plugs if you haven't done so in a while, and in particular if you've never done so.
No I haven't yet on this vehicle. I honestly wasn't to sure about the plugs because my car only has 29,500 miles on it and is only a 2016 but hey I guess u never know lol
 

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No I haven't yet on this vehicle. I honestly wasn't to sure about the plugs because my car only has 29,500 miles on it and is only a 2016 but hey I guess u never know lol
This is my first turbo and GDI engine ... but apparently, from what I've absorbed on this site, and from other sources, these engines can tend to foul up plugs much quicker than an NA car where you really don't have to worry about it for atleast 80K miles. I've been doing mine every 20K.

The only other known issues with the car that could POSSIBLY affect ignition (aka misfires) is the evap purge valve or the LFPS, but I would definitely replace the plugs first. Or, at the very least look at them and check the gapping.
 

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So I checked all my connections on the cold air intake and everything was connected. I also noticed this morning when the issue seemed to have gotten worse, the air/fuel ratio would max out at 20.0 on the gauge when I was keeping a steady speed. So I than put the oem intake back in and erased the codes. And so far so good. The light hasn't come back on, I'm not loosing power, I'm not fluttering. Boost is building like normal. So I'm not sure if maybe a need a tune or some other upgrade to make the cold air intake work properly with the car. Like I said I'm really not to knowledgeable on cars, so any help i can get is appreciated
 

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I have a 2016 mustang ecoboost automatic. I already had a mbrp race series cat back exhaust system installed. I just recently installed a SR performance cold air intake and Boomba Bov adapter. Other than that the car is stock. No tune, no downpipe, nothing else. If I'm in regular drive mode and I get on the gas, as soon as the boost gauges hits about 15 psi, it starts to flutter and it sounds like the exhaust is back firing. The car used to get to almost 23 psi before the upgrade. I only have pretty basic car knowledge, so any help I can get would be appreciated!
Try disconnecting the battery and re booting the computer. I had to do this one time on a V8 Mustang when I changed over to a cold air intake.
 

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Personally I'd be getting a tune. Even my Airaid MIT needed one.
 

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The Ecoboost motor uses a speed density control scheme. It does not need a tune like an engine using mass air flow control when changing the air intake.

Dave
 

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I can tell you that that while everyone said the same including the the tuner re the MIT it certainly did require a tune. I can show you all the logs if you like. That being said it may have been coincidence or it was always a problem that hadn't been noticed until i changed the MIT but eitherway it required a tune. Also like the op I haven't just got an air intake though.

I would personally get a tune done
 
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