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Hey guys I have been looking around for my next mod. I have read up on blow off valves and the benefits of them. I know they don’t provide more power but are more for extending your turbos life and allow more room for increased boost. I currently have a CAI, aftermarket intercooler, and a custom tune. I was curious on everyone’s thoughts on adding a BOV, apparently the factory one is notorious for leaking and currently I am hitting around 25lbs of boost no sure what the factory one is rated for. Thanks!
 

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Hey guys I have been looking around for my next mod. I have read up on blow off valves and the benefits of them. I know they don’t provide more power but are more for extending your turbos life and allow more room for increased boost. I currently have a CAI, aftermarket intercooler, and a custom tune. I was curious on everyone’s thoughts on adding a BOV, apparently the factory one is notorious for leaking and currently I am hitting around 25lbs of boost no sure what the factory one is rated for. Thanks!
The stock BOV isn’t defective, it was designed that way, to bleed a little pressure off so that the little twin scroll turbo is ready to go when you put your foot down, remember the turbo is always spinning so when you’re cruising the BOV will open slightly to bleed off unneeded boost.
 

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Some of us here have the GFB DV+ diverter valve and are very happy with it. I think the consensus is that it's quieter at cruise speed, less leakage, and smoother boost, but not much in the way of power or torque.
 

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I agree with Sarge here.
 

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I have the TurboXS Kompact BOV, works well for me. I don't trust or like the factory diverter, I would suggest you replace it with either the GFB Diverter+ or an aftermarket piece. Just for piece of mind that it will hold boost under heavy acceleration.
 

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If replacing the OEM bypass valve, I suggest the replacement be one that retains the PCM control (electrical connector). The GFB DV+ BPV, GFB DV+ VTA, Boomba Racing BPV, Boomba Racing BOV, and Turbosmart Kompact EM VR2 are in that category, though I won't recommend the Turbosmart. I have run the Boomba BOV and am currently testing the GFB DV+ VTA which are both vent to atmosphere. So far I don't notice any difference in the 2 other than the GFB being a bit quieter and instead of a prolonged hiss at cruise, I sometimes get a series of quick hisses. The GFB is an easier install and cheaper, just wish the VTA version had been available before I purchased the Boomba BOV. I will be selling the Boomba BOV along with the modified OEM Y vacuum tubing, once I replace it (capped for now).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If replacing the OEM bypass valve, I suggest the replacement be one that retains the PCM control (electrical connector). The GFB DV+ BPV, GFB DV+ VTA, Boomba Racing BPV, Boomba Racing BOV, and Turbosmart Kompact EM VR2 are in that category, though I won't recommend the Turbosmart. I have run the Boomba BOV and am currently testing the GFB DV+ VTA which are both vent to atmosphere. So far I don't notice any difference in the 2 other than the GFB being a bit quieter and instead of a prolonged hiss at cruise, I sometimes get a series of quick hisses. The GFB is an easier install and cheaper, just wish the VTA version had been available before I purchased the Boomba BOV. I will be selling the Boomba BOV along with the modified OEM Y vacuum tubing, once I replace it (capped for now).
So why do you say stick with the pcm control? Which I’m assuming retains the ecu controlling the blow off rather then a mechanical vacuum controlled bov.
 

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So why do you say stick with the pcm control? Which I’m assuming retains the ecu controlling the blow off rather then a mechanical vacuum controlled bov.
Mechanical reacts to manifold pressure and PCM can react to that and more and quicker. You can mitigate some of the reaction time on a mechanical setup by moving the BOV to the cold side, but I still consider it subpar compared to PCM control. And before you ask, I have run mechanical on hot (Turbosmart Shorty) and cold side (cPE/ TiAL). So far best response for me has been Boomba and GFB.
 

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So why do you say stick with the pcm control? Which I’m assuming retains the ecu controlling the blow off rather then a mechanical vacuum controlled bov.
This is one of the few things Kiwiwinter and I disagree on. I much prefer a vacuum operated BOV.....you’ll always have vacuum to operate the valve. I’ve seen enough electrical glitches and problems with pcm communication, can bus failures, etc, etc
Anyway, the sensor has to sense the vacuum/boost, send it to the ecu, ECU has to think about it, compare it to maps in the ECU and other info from other sensors, then return the proper signal back to the BOV for it to operate....if one of those things fails, by by motor or turbo. Vacuum operated BOVS on the other hand only need a hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This is one of the few things Kiwiwinter and I disagree on. I much prefer a vacuum operated BOV.....you’ll always have vacuum to operate the valve. I’ve seen enough electrical glitches and problems with pcm communication, can bus failures, etc, etc
Anyway, the sensor has to sense the vacuum/boost, send it to the ecu, ECU has to think about it, compare it to maps in the ECU and other info from other sensors, then return the proper signal back to the BOV for it to operate....if one of those things fails, by by motor or turbo. Vacuum operated BOVS on the other hand only need a hose.
Hmm interesting I can see both sides here. I like the idea of the mechanical bov simply because it simplify's the process leaving less room for issues later on ect. . . though it seems like the PCM is quicker response though probably more precise. I am mostly getting this to extend the life of my turbo as I have about 50k miles on my car now. Besides adding the aftermarket exhaust including down pipe i don't plan on doing much more to the car i.e a bigger turbo. Not sure if this info changes any opinions here.
 

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Hmm interesting I can see both sides here. I like the idea of the mechanical bov simply because it simplify's the process leaving less room for issues later on ect. . . though it seems like the PCM is quicker response though probably more precise. I am mostly getting this to extend the life of my turbo as I have about 50k miles on my car now. Besides adding the aftermarket exhaust including down pipe i don't plan on doing much more to the car i.e a bigger turbo. Not sure if this info changes any opinions here.
I don’t know if the electric BOV is quicker or more precise, especially when you consider that the solenoid for the pcm sensor STILL references boost/vacuum, THEN has to decide to open or close the BOV. Where as a mechanical BOV opens and closes in direct reference to boost/vacuum as it happens.....granted we’re only talking about fractions of a second.
I’m a KISS guy “Keep It Simple Stupid”, the more complicated a system is, the more chances it has of it failing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Kent I’m on the same page as you. I’d like to keep things simpler. Though this is going to have to wait a few weeks. I hit a curb leaving my apartment the other day and ended up with a flat tire. Fortunately no bent rim but I did take that as an excuse to put all new pierelli all seasons on my car so I’m tapped out for car mod money ahaha.
 

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At the end of the day the PCM is referencing more than just the boost/vacuum. Every sensor that the PCM reads is an input that is used in calculations and looking up values in its tables. Things like rpm, load, speed, wastegate duty cycle, temps, strategy, etc... are not available to a mechanical BOV. I do know that the behavior I’ve observed between the 2 types is definitely different, albeit small. The PCM monitors and controls our engine with the ability to perform millions of calculations per second, the propagation of an electrical signal over wire is for our consideration practically instantaneous, so that leaves the actuation time of the BOV solenoid which is minuscule.

I am actually a big proponent of KISS, but I also realize that isn’t always the answer or I’d still be driving a carbureted car. You should see the spreadsheets and decision trees I put together when considering an upgrade part, and again once installed and I evaluate against OEM. Everyone has their own needs, experience, priorities, likes, that factor into their decisions, and I will always respect that. Best I can do is present my case, and hope it helps someone make their own informed decision.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
At the end of the day the PCM is referencing more than just the boost/vacuum. Every sensor that the PCM reads is an input that is used in calculations and looking up values in its tables. Things like rpm, load, speed, wastegate duty cycle, temps, strategy, etc... are not available to a mechanical BOV. I do know that the behavior I’ve observed between the 2 types is definitely different, albeit small. The PCM monitors and controls our engine with the ability to perform millions of calculations per second, the propagation of an electrical signal over wire is for our consideration practically instantaneous, so that leaves the actuation time of the BOV solenoid which is minuscule.

I am actually a big proponent of KISS, but I also realize that isn’t always the answer or I’d still be driving a carbureted car. You should see the spreadsheets and decision trees I put together when considering an upgrade part, and again once installed and I evaluate against OEM. Everyone has their own needs, experience, priorities, likes, that factor into their decisions, and I will always respect that. Best I can do is present my case, and hope it helps someone make their own informed decision.
Hey man that’s why I am here to listen to the advice opinions and thoughts of those who are a lot more experienced then I am and learn something for them. I am all for any information you want to provide me to help make the best decision to not only improve the performance of my car but keep it healthy.
 

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I'm not into the science of things. Nor do I care if QB+z < 23rdfg × 3.14 squared(×2-3) = for fucks sake. I went with the Boomba bov after having the turbosmart and the stock and love its operation. It wont leak, it can handle whatever turbo and boost you throw at it. Great design, great build! But I dont care what many say. I came from supercharger builds and everyone was saying to go over 500 hp I needed bigger a supercharger and so on. I had the stock supercharger on one of my older Mustangs ported to a snake bite port and make almost 600 hp when everyone said it was impossible. My point is, find what's quality for your goals and meets your intent for your car. I've been driving that Cobra for 15 years(now sits in garage till I feel the want to drive her) I will be daily driving my eco maxed out for the next 15 or more.
 

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I'm not into the science of things. Nor do I care if QB+z < 23rdfg × 3.14 squared(×2-3) = for fucks sake. I went with the Boomba bov after having the turbosmart and the stock and love its operation. It wont leak, it can handle whatever turbo and boost you throw at it. Great design, great build! But I dont care what many say. I came from supercharger builds and everyone was saying to go over 500 hp I needed bigger a supercharger and so on. I had the stock supercharger on one of my older Mustangs ported to a snake bite port and make almost 600 hp when everyone said it was impossible. My point is, find what's quality for your goals and meets your intent for your car. I've been driving that Cobra for 15 years(now sits in garage till I feel the want to drive her) I will be daily driving my eco maxed out for the next 15 or more.
Yea i have found that with some stuff its a matter of preference. I just know if you let sites like american muscle sell you everything you may have a bunch of **** you don't need on your car ect. . . im going to wait after i get a baseline dyno with my current mods ect. . . Work from that with the shop I am dealing with, think that is my best bet moving forward.
 

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I would also recommend watching some of the youtube vids on modding the eco. Alot to learn from the folks that have royally jacked up their motors after modding and not really having any real mechanical experience with limitations.
 

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I would also recommend watching some of the youtube vids on modding the eco. Alot to learn from the folks that have royally jacked up their motors after modding and not really having any real mechanical experience with limitations.
Yea I have done a lot of research into what I should do ect. All I have done at the moment is cai, aftermarket intercooler, then a custom tune. My next step would be bov, oil catch can, downpipe, cat back exhaust. I’m going to get the baseline dyno before anything though and work with the shop on that progression. Based on what I read the oil catch can is almost a must have for engine life ect.
 

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Definitely GFB it’s improved throttle response on my car when I mash the pedal to the metal 👍
 
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