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This is what I've come to gather from the various blurbs I've 'absorbed' on LSPI. Crappy oil and/or crappy gas combined with bad piston rings, or rings that haven't warmed up fully. Not saying lugging the engine couldn't exacerbate the issue...but the latest research shows oil/gas to be a leading indicator.
I agree completely, but most folk just don’t get it, that’s why I give them the rpm solution. Most of your “regular” mustang drivers can’t understand why they should put a catch can on their car, or why running the highest octane available is advisable in any turbo charged vehicle.
There’s a really stupid thread on mustang6g, with some idiot telling people a catch can is not needed or Ford would have installed one.....On another site there’s another idiot saying all you should run for fuel is 87 since the car was designed to handle it. People with any kind of vehicle performance experience know both of those claims to be untrue, but we are out numbered by the googlers and social media surfers.
We learned 30+ years ago, that allowing your ford 4cyl turbo to come up to operating temp before beating on it would preserve the motor, but people with these new eco’s just don’t get it.
Lol! End of rant. Back to trying to be a nice guy.
 

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I agree completely, but most folk just don’t get it, that’s why I give them the rpm solution. Most of your “regular” mustang drivers can’t understand why they should put a catch can on their car, or why running the highest octane available is advisable in any turbo charged vehicle.
There’s a really stupid thread on mustang6g, with some idiot telling people a catch can is not needed or Ford would have installed one.....On another site there’s another idiot saying all you should run for fuel is 87 since the car was designed to handle it. People with any kind of vehicle performance experience know both of those claims to be untrue, but we are out numbered by the googlers and social media surfers.
We learned 30+ years ago, that allowing your ford 4cyl turbo to come up to operating temp before beating on it would preserve the motor, but people with these new eco’s just don’t get it.
Lol! End of rant. Back to trying to be a nice guy.
Nailed it. Use a good oil. Top octane fuel. Install a catch can. Warm the motor properly before pushing it. Don't lug it. Not saying I couldn't throw a rod next time I drive it, but I'd like to think taking these steps would certainly help from doing so.
 

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There’s a really stupid thread on mustang6g, with some idiot telling people a catch can is not needed or Ford would have installed one
This is my first car with turbo induction...and with it I've learned A LOT in the 3 years of ownership. But right off the bat, with me an absolute dunce, as soon as I learned about what was truly going on, it NEVER made sense to allow my engine to breathe in oily vapors as part of the combustion cycle, without at least an attempt to filter and/or limit them. A catchcan was literally the first thing I did to the car, side by side with the FP tune. Intercooler came next.
 

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I agree completely, but most folk just don’t get it, that’s why I give them the rpm solution. Most of your “regular” mustang drivers can’t understand why they should put a catch can on their car, or why running the highest octane available is advisable in any turbo charged vehicle.
There’s a really stupid thread on mustang6g, with some idiot telling people a catch can is not needed or Ford would have installed one.....On another site there’s another idiot saying all you should run for fuel is 87 since the car was designed to handle it. People with any kind of vehicle performance experience know both of those claims to be untrue, but we are out numbered by the googlers and social media surfers.
We learned 30+ years ago, that allowing your ford 4cyl turbo to come up to operating temp before beating on it would preserve the motor, but people with these new eco’s just don’t get it.
Lol! End of rant. Back to trying to be a nice guy.
Its almost like i know exactly the thread youre talking about ?
 

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This is my first car with turbo induction...and with it I've learned A LOT in the 3 years of ownership. But right off the bat, with me an absolute dunce, as soon as I learned about what was truly going on, it NEVER made sense to allow my engine to breathe in oily vapors as part of the combustion cycle, without at least an attempt to filter and/or limit them. A catchcan was literally the first thing I did to the car, side by side with the FP tune. Intercooler came next.
None of that was directed at you or really anyone on this site, gatornek, if you were a dunce you never would have realized the need for a catchcan! Lol! You and people like you that ask questions and are willing to listen and learn are what makes sites like this work.
 

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None of that was directed at you or really anyone on this site, gatornek, if you were a dunce you never would have realized the need for a catchcan! Lol! You and people like you that ask questions and are willing to listen and learn are what makes sites like this work.
LOL. Didn't take it that way at all. Re-read my response and I realized I came out a bit defensive, when in actuality I just wanted to emphasize how much I agreed with you on your point about the catchcan. Great rant.
 

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Get the ford full syn oil it has the anti lspi properties, so does the amsoil signature.
Any oil with the API Service rating of SN+ has been reformulated to minimize LSPI.

Plus most of the top shelf synthetics were actually reformulated before the oil manufactuers could actually put the SN+ designation on the bottle.

Dave
 

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Hey guys,

  1. I wanted to get some thoughts on what could have gone wrong. My wife and I purchased a brand new Ecoboost 11/2019, I wanted a GT but she was scared of the power knowing I would tune it and all the bolt in’s **** I did with my 2016 GT. Anyway so service wise we did oil change at 250 miles and 1000 mile. Right away I purchased the COBB stage 3 kit. I didn’t want to throw all the parts on until we broke in the engine. Only parts I installed so far was Cobb intake and stage 1 tune and new spark plugs. I knew I would be doing customs tunes at some point so did some research and started working with a “pro tuner”.Again nothing crazy just intake and tuner. After engine was broke in I was going to put the rest of the stage 3 pack on and start doing some custom tuning at that point....never made it to that point. My wife put 2800 of the 3000 miles that were on the car and she doesn’t drive crazy at all, never changed the drive mode and doubt she ever came close to hitting redline. The few miles I did put on the car were not very hard either. Never took it to the track, no burnouts or line lock or no doughnuts. Had to do some “pulls” for the custom tuning but those are only from 3k-5k rpm. My wife said last week when merging on the freeway she noticed a stuttering when she would get on the freeway. That day I drove it around town and didn’t feel anything that she described. Set an appointment with the dealership to have them check it out. After driving it around town the next day I took it to work and wanted to see if I could feel what she described. She doesn’t know much about cars so wanted to hear/feel it for myself so I could explain to service manager. I was going about 60 mph, put it in “track” mode and punched it to pass some cars and around 5k rpm i felt the stuttering she was talking about and got off the gas right away. Next exit on the freeway was my destination so got off the freeway came home to the light, made a right hand turn, start to accelerate from a stop and then white smoke everywhere and engine sounded like nuts and washers in a tin can. The stuttering I felt on the freeway was nothing to bad IMO, honestly felt like a random misfire and only happened on freeway under WOT. Towed it home and slapped the stock intake on and also the stock tune kneeing it was going back for warranty. (That’s another issue)...I wanted to pick your guys brain on what could have caused this? Only Cobb intake and custom tuned. I’ve had 2016 Camaro 1LE and 2016 GT, 2011 f250 6.7 diesel and 2017 Camaro zl1. All of those cars were tuned with a lot more mods and zero issues. I had The Ecoboost setup for 91 octane and always used chevron gas. was told I could have had “bad batch of gas” or “fuel pump” was failing from tuner. Dealership has not got back to me with their details of what happened other than there’s a hole in the block and metal everywhere and have to do full investigation for warranty to cover motor. Sorry for the long story, just wanted to give as much detail as possible cause this is really a head scratcher. I work in the car industry and been wrenching on cars since a kid with my dad. I’m no ase matertech but can get myself around the car just fine and have always done my own work myself. Any thoughts on what could have caused this?? I have $4k in parts sitting in my garage for this car and now 2nd guessing putting anything on when getting the car back or until I hear something that makes sense of why this first motor blew. Any advise would be greatly appreciated, I’m not here to bash any part companies or who tuned it just thoughts on what could have caused this and how to prevent in the future
My guess would guess would be that these engines really are not built to be modded. This just happened to me this week and my mechanic also noted that because of the motor being so small compared to the V8 and V6 counterparts, it will have to work harder to function and it puts more wear on the motor. Pairing that with a tune could cause the motor to overwork itself.
 

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JdmS550: "My guess would guess would be that these engines really are not built to be modded. This just happened to me this week and my mechanic also noted that because of the motor being so small compared to the V8 and V6 counterparts, it will have to work harder to function and it puts more wear on the motor. Pairing that with a tune could cause the motor to overwork itself."

OK, not to sound negative here, but...

This is your first post here? Please go back up to the top and introduce yourself, then spend some time here reading what's already been put out there by the enthusiast population of our forum. You'll find that overall we're well aware of the limitations and potential within this engine and platform. While I'm sure you mean well with this reply, it's not helpful to this discussion.
 
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JdmS550: "My guess would guess would be that these engines really are not built to be modded. This just happened to me this week and my mechanic also noted that because of the motor being so small compared to the V8 and V6 counterparts, it will have to work harder to function and it puts more wear on the motor. Pairing that with a tune could cause the motor to overwork itself."

OK, not to sound negative here, but...

This is your first post here? Please go back up to the top and introduce yourself, then spend some time here reading what's already been put out there by the enthusiast population of our forum. You'll find that overall we're well aware of the limitations and potential within this engine and platform. While I'm sure you mean well with this reply, it's not helpful to this discussion.
Amen my friend! I also believe that young fella should get a different mechanic.
 

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Plus most of the top shelf synthetics were actually reformulated before the oil manufactuers could actually put the SN+ designation on the bottle.
True. I queried Mobil about this last year and was advised that Mobil 1 had already met the requirements for several years (I believe that was the response, I can't find the email now), even though the designation had not shown up on the bottles yet. I expect that is the case for many others, QS, Pennzoil and the like.
 

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I agree completely, but most folk just don’t get it, that’s why I give them the rpm solution. Most of your “regular” mustang drivers can’t understand why they should put a catch can on their car, or why running the highest octane available is advisable in any turbo charged vehicle.
There’s a really stupid thread on mustang6g, with some idiot telling people a catch can is not needed or Ford would have installed one.....On another site there’s another idiot saying all you should run for fuel is 87 since the car was designed to handle it. People with any kind of vehicle performance experience know both of those claims to be untrue, but we are out numbered by the googlers and social media surfers.
We learned 30+ years ago, that allowing your ford 4cyl turbo to come up to operating temp before beating on it would preserve the motor, but people with these new eco’s just don’t get it.
Lol! End of rant. Back to trying to be a nice guy.
I find this whole thread amazing. I will be honest before this very moment I had know idea that LSPI was a thing. I also felt that pushing the car in a higher gear say 6th at 2000rpm's it didn't feel right so i didn't do it. I have driven manuals for years and always figured if I want to go fast I down shift so I guess I have avoided this but I will avoid this even more so moving forward. Thank you guys for the education here, I feel pretty well versed in my car but you learn something new every day.
 

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but its alright to slowly increase speed in 6th right? I have 3.31 gears, and I am manual, when im passing someone slowly, I will give it some gas, it'll stay below, or get to 0 boost, maybe even like 5boost, but not like flooring the car. haven't had any issues myself. I also never heard of lspi til I owned this car, never owned a turbo before. Lol my other cars, floor it in 6th, it just slowly gets there, hundreds of thousands of miles no booom
 

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That's fine too. LSPI happens under high load conditions. I would say as long as your fine as long as you keep it under 10 psi.

Dave
 
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