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Hey guys, I have a 2016 Ford Mustang Ecoboost. I have a Levels Intercooler, Roush Cold Air Intake, and a MAPerformence Catless Downpipe, With no mufflers. Keep in mind I never got it tuned for about 6 Months after all of these mods were on the car. I did not change my Fuel Sensor either. One day my car started to make a awful popping noise on acceleration out of my exhaust like a backfire. It would only happen if I accelerated. It did this off and on and I could not find ANYTHING about this problem. The only engine code that would pop up is a cylinder 2 Misfire. I changed the spark plugs and coils as well, and it still would pop up. My car had a rough idle at this time too and would sometimes have white smoke(not too thick) come out the exhaust after I turned it on. I also had a timing cover oil leak. I was going to get the leak fixed but before I was going to do this I decided to get it tuned. Not a heavy tune just a tune so my ECU knew that it had these aftermarket parts on the car. I was driving it home after the tune and my car started smoking and fire covered the whole back of my car and it went out after 5ish seconds. I pulled over and Oil was all over the back of my car and when I opened the hood oil was everywhere too. When I got the car home I saw a hole in my block and we got the motor replaced and its currently in the works right now. I will get it back Tuesday. What did I do wrong? I understand its heavly user error when it comes to this but my car REALLY isnt that modified so I have no idea how it happened. Any ideas?
 

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Anything we say here is just going to be conjecture.

My guess is not getting it tuned as the mods went on. It was probably misfiring all along, and a good tuner would have spotted it and helped you correct it.
 
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Hey guys, I have a 2016 Ford Mustang Ecoboost. I have a Levels Intercooler, Roush Cold Air Intake, and a MAPerformence Catless Downpipe, With no mufflers. Keep in mind I never got it tuned for about 6 Months after all of these mods were on the car. I did not change my Fuel Sensor either. One day my car started to make a awful popping noise on acceleration out of my exhaust like a backfire. It would only happen if I accelerated. It did this off and on and I could not find ANYTHING about this problem. The only engine code that would pop up is a cylinder 2 Misfire. I changed the spark plugs and coils as well, and it still would pop up. My car had a rough idle at this time too and would sometimes have white smoke(not too thick) come out the exhaust after I turned it on. I also had a timing cover oil leak. I was going to get the leak fixed but before I was going to do this I decided to get it tuned. Not a heavy tune just a tune so my ECU knew that it had these aftermarket parts on the car. I was driving it home after the tune and my car started smoking and fire covered the whole back of my car and it went out after 5ish seconds. I pulled over and Oil was all over the back of my car and when I opened the hood oil was everywhere too. When I got the car home I saw a hole in my block and we got the motor replaced and its currently in the works right now. I will get it back Tuesday. What did I do wrong? I understand its heavly user error when it comes to this but my car REALLY isnt that modified so I have no idea how it happened. Any ideas?
The downpipe is the only thing that could have even the remote chance of causing any issues, a check engine light for turbo overspeed and an emissions code from the 2nd O2 sensor should have been the only result though. Less intake restriction and cooler charge temps shouldn't have any ill effects on the motor otherwise a high flow drop in filter and cool weather would be blowing up cars left and right.

The popping noise is the engine responding to detonation, if the engine is detonating easily on the stock tune persistently through different tanks of fuel then a physical defect exists within a cylinder or cylinders that is causing undesirable combustion conditions. A timing cover leak is a symptom of high crankcase pressure and smoke out the tail pipe suggests a bad ring or cracked piston when the other factors are considered.

I would theorize that a pre-ignition event occurred in cylinder #2 that caused damage to the piston in such a way that the piston would allow oil to enter the combustion chamber and cause further detonation when the engine was put under load, updating the tune for the downpipe and intercooler would have only added more fuel, boost and timing resulting in a second pre-ignition event that snapped the connecting rod and sent it out the side of the block.

The cause of the original pre-ignition event is unclear, severe lugging of the engine in a higher gear and not so great fuel could have done it or the cast cylinder could have had a flaw that caused it to crack, a lean condition from a faulty fuel system component is a possibility but should trigger a code, a faulty low side fuel pressure sensor would cause drivability issues but normally not enough to damage a factory tuned engine.

It could be many things but if Ford is willing to fix it under warranty without giving you any hassle over modifications then they are confident that the nature of the failure was due to a manufacturing error and therefore completely beyond your control meaning it was going to happen no matter what you did.

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Discussion Starter #4
The downpipe is the only thing that could have even the remote chance of causing any issues, a check engine light for turbo overspeed and an emissions code from the 2nd O2 sensor should have been the only result though. Less intake restriction and cooler charge temps shouldn't have any ill effects on the motor otherwise a high flow drop in filter and cool weather would be blowing up cars left and right.

The popping noise is the engine responding to detonation, if the engine is detonating easily on the stock tune persistently through different tanks of fuel then a physical defect exists within a cylinder or cylinders that is causing undesirable combustion conditions. A timing cover leak is a symptom of high crankcase pressure and smoke out the tail pipe suggests a bad ring or cracked piston when the other factors are considered.

I would theorize that a pre-ignition event occurred in cylinder #2 that caused damage to the piston in such a way that the piston would allow oil to enter the combustion chamber and cause further detonation when the engine was put under load, updating the tune for the downpipe and intercooler would have only added more fuel, boost and timing resulting in a second pre-ignition event that snapped the connecting rod and sent it out the side of the block.

The cause of the original pre-ignition event is unclear, severe lugging of the engine in a higher gear and not so great fuel could have done it or the cast cylinder could have had a flaw that caused it to crack, a lean condition from a faulty fuel system component is a possibility but should trigger a code, a faulty low side fuel pressure sensor would cause drivability issues but normally not enough to damage a factory tuned engine.

It could be many things but if Ford is willing to fix it under warranty without giving you any hassle over modifications then they are confident that the nature of the failure was due to a manufacturing error and therefore completely beyond your control meaning it was going to happen no matter what you did.

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Thank you so much for you both to respond to me so quickly. Is there anything you would recommend doing different when I get my motor back? I bought a new Fuel sensor as well as a baffled oil catch can. New pregapped spark plugs. There anything Im missing?
 

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I'm seeing California in your profile, so I'm going to recommend putting the stock downpipe back in. There are some gains to be had there, but personally I don't feel like they're worth the hassle, especially with the emissions requirements for your state.
 

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What gas (87, 91 or 93) were you running on the tune?
If your engine was detonating badly, that might have contributed.
 

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I think there were some tell tail signs along the way. Crackle and pop is unspent fuel getting dumped into the exhaust. Removing the down pipe certainly changed the back pressure and exhaust scavenger.

White smoke is a clear indication of head gasket.

At this point I wouldn’t have looked to a tune, rather a trip to the dealership.

Keep us updated when it comes back.


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Hey guys, I have a 2016 Ford Mustang Ecoboost. I have a Levels Intercooler, Roush Cold Air Intake, and a MAPerformence Catless Downpipe, With no mufflers. Keep in mind I never got it tuned for about 6 Months after all of these mods were on the car. I did not change my Fuel Sensor either. One day my car started to make a awful popping noise on acceleration out of my exhaust like a backfire. It would only happen if I accelerated. It did this off and on and I could not find ANYTHING about this problem. The only engine code that would pop up is a cylinder 2 Misfire. I changed the spark plugs and coils as well, and it still would pop up. My car had a rough idle at this time too and would sometimes have white smoke(not too thick) come out the exhaust after I turned it on. I also had a timing cover oil leak. I was going to get the leak fixed but before I was going to do this I decided to get it tuned. Not a heavy tune just a tune so my ECU knew that it had these aftermarket parts on the car. I was driving it home after the tune and my car started smoking and fire covered the whole back of my car and it went out after 5ish seconds. I pulled over and Oil was all over the back of my car and when I opened the hood oil was everywhere too. When I got the car home I saw a hole in my block and we got the motor replaced and its currently in the works right now. I will get it back Tuesday. What did I do wrong? I understand its heavly user error when it comes to this but my car REALLY isnt that modified so I have no idea how it happened. Any ideas?
Would you mind sharing the details of your tune? What device and was it an OTS or custom tune? Thanks
 

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So I just installed an aftermarket chip today, the RaceChip GTS Black. I also have a resonator and muffler delete and my car has always been able to pop on deceleration, but today when I installed my car it began popping on acceleration. When I did my first test drive I really pushed it and my exhaust didn't pop on acceleration, but when I took it out later it began to pop on acceleration usually when I get around 4000 rpm. It's not a very violent sound, but I don't want it to grow into something worse. Please help any info would be helpful.
Thanks,
ecomook
 

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So I just installed an aftermarket chip today, the RaceChip GTS Black. I also have a resonator and muffler delete and my car has always been able to pop on deceleration, but today when I installed my car it began popping on acceleration. When I did my first test drive I really pushed it and my exhaust didn't pop on acceleration, but when I took it out later it began to pop on acceleration usually when I get around 4000 rpm. It's not a very violent sound, but I don't want it to grow into something worse. Please help any info would be helpful.
Thanks,
ecomook
Assuming your sparkplugs are healthy and properly gapped, popping on acceleration is the sound of engine detonation, the race chip is forcing the engine to knock.
A better tuning strategy or higher octane fuel will be required for it to stop.

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Assuming your sparkplugs are healthy and properly gapped, popping on acceleration is the sound of engine detonation, the race chip is forcing the engine to knock.
A better tuning strategy or higher octane fuel will be required for it to stop.

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I use 91 Octane as of right now, should I switch to 93, also heard that E85 is good with tuned cars. Want to minimize detonation as much as possible
 

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I use 91 Octane as of right now, should I switch to 93, also heard that E85 is good with tuned cars. Want to minimize detonation as much as possible
If you are experiencing engine detonation the first thing to do is switch to a higher octane fuel, if the detonation continues on 93 octane fuel I would recommend contacting the Racechip manufacturer and reporting the issue, repeated detonation events can cause damage to the pistons.

Custom tuning is required for running E30 or E85 fuels because the fuel mixture for high ethanol content fuels needs to be much richer.
Pictured below is a chart of desirable air fuel mixtures for different types of fuels, our cars can only handle up to an E15 mixture on the stock tune.



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If you are experiencing engine detonation the first thing to do is switch to a higher octane fuel, if the detonation continues on 93 octane fuel I would recommend contacting the Racechip manufacturer and reporting the issue, repeated detonation events can cause damage to the pistons.

Custom tuning is required for running E30 or E85 fuels because the fuel mixture for high ethanol content fuels needs to be much richer.
Pictured below is a chart of desirable air fuel mixtures for different types of fuels, our cars can only handle up to an E15 mixture on the stock tune.



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Ok going to switch to 93 immediately if that doesn't help i'll have to find something else, thanks a lot really appreciate the help.
 

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Another question, would downpipes benefit my car with the chip, I already have a muffler and resonator delete.
I would recommend against it.

The chip is designed to work with a stock car, changing out the downpipe changes the spool up of the turbo and changes the boost curve, a catback changes the noise but has very little effect on the turbo so it is safe.

A high flow filter and intercooler upgrade are about the only mods besides a catback that would work with the racechip, anything beyond that would change engine operating parameters beyond what the Racechip manufacturers intended.

Mods that effect boost are especially risky with chip type tuners, the chip raises boost by telling the computer that it is making less boost than it really is so the computer commands more boost than it normally would, this process was carefully programmed by the Racechip manufacturer and any mod that would effect the boost curve could cause boost levels to exceed safe levels at the wrong rpms and cause catastrophic engine failure.

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Discussion Starter #16
So update for everyone. Turns out somehow i was getting a oil leak into my intake manifold and when I tuned it it just detonated the engine I believe. Took the motor and the transmission with it.
 

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So update for everyone. Turns out somehow i was getting a oil leak into my intake manifold and when I tuned it it just detonated the engine I believe. Took the motor and the transmission with it.
This is why I think Ford should have included the OAR monitor in the factory gauges, a contaminated fuel air mixture would have drove your OAR to +1 and alerted you that an issue was present.
Unfortunately, engine oil has an extremely low octane rating and will ruin the knock resistance of premium fuel if allowed to mix with the fuel air mix resulting in catastrophic pre-ignition, it is as if you were putting fuel in your car that had an octane rating of 50 instead of 91.

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This is why I think Ford should have included the OAR monitor in the factory gauges, a contaminated fuel air mixture would have drove your OAR to +1 and alerted you that an issue was present.
Unfortunately, engine oil has an extremely low octane rating and will ruin the knock resistance of premium fuel if allowed to mix with the fuel air mix resulting in catastrophic pre-ignition, it is as if you were putting fuel in your car that had an octane rating of 50 instead of 91.

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Does anyone know if you can monitor OAR with the Fusion Pro app?
 

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Damn sorry to hear about your engine :(

I've already decided if i blow my engine, I am going to get a built up engine from Adam+ with stronger internals, and a large turbo
 
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