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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy all,

I am a mechanical engineering student who has a big love for cars. Like every major car enthusiast (and student) I lack the funds necessary to do a lot of my projects - but this doesn't mean I cant do anything. Right now I have a 2018 EcoBoost mustang with the following mods: CVF downpipe, street IC and charge pipes, an MBRP race exhaust, and a kompact shortie dual port BOV. I also have a tune and am making roughly 338 whp.

Lately, ive reaalllyyy wanted to slap a big turbo in there - but obviously there is a lot to think about. Pumps, injectors, oil, temps, pressures, sensors, etc. all need to be taken into account before doing a big mod like this. As an enthusiast who has taken classes like thermo, heat transfer, and fluid dynamics, I have the basic skills required to do an analysis on my car. I also have access to a TON of reading material through my university where I can get real quality information - these will be my primary reference sources. If you would like to follow along with this project (it will be long, complicated, hairy, and incredibly rewarding) please follow the form.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Currently, I have some of my big main questions asked - I really want to break down the 4 stroke engine cycle in my car and work backward from it - notice that I am looking specifically at torque. I will be calculating the torque in the 2000-3500 rpm range and then hp in the 5000-6000 range. All of this will be in intervals of 50 rpm and when I get to it, I will be utilizing some python and excel to make this go a bit quicker and make some nice looking graphs to post on here.

Main Questions: (in order of priority)
  • Will stock block need to be upgraded?
    • How much boost/torque/temp (IAT and EAT) can stock block handle?
    • How much torque can we make at 18-22 psi?
    • How much force can stock pistons/rods/crank handle?
    • How much psi/temp are stock manifolds rated for?
    • How much temp can injectors/valves take?
  • Figure out mass airflow and pressure we would need to make “X” hp at that psi
    • What is psi/boost going to look like with chosen upgrades?
      • Bigger turbo
      • Upgraded charge pipes?
      • Upgraded IC?
      • Upgraded airbox/intake runner/MAF
      • Downpipe?
      • BOV?
      • MAP?
  • What additional supporting mods need to be made?
    • this one is actually a rhetorical question so please do not answer it, because I am already aware of a few (fuel injectors, potential upgraded cooling system, potential larger oil pump)
Assumptions:
  • Real Air standard otto cycle (will take into account losses)
  • Volume is constant (2.3L)
  • Keeping stock block and internals
  • Reference pressure is atmospheric (0 psi and 101.3 kPa)
  • Cylinder temps need to be no more than 215 degrees F (designing for steady state operation, and is on the "safer" side of a hot engine)
  • Cylinder pressure should not exceed 22 psi (18 psi minimum) (this is my target boost range, obviously this can, and will, probably be subject ot change)

Throughout this week my main reading will be comparing on the real standard air otto cycle vs the regular air otto cycle. I want to understand where the losses are coming from and perform an actual cycle analysis. I know that the phases in this will also depend on mass airflow and engine rpm - I will be working these into the equation as well.
 

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Talk to Jessie Ringley of EMS, Engineering Motorsports Solutions! He did, and is still doing the same thing your wanting to do!!
 

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Main Questions: (in order of priority)
  • Will stock block need to be upgraded?
    • How much boost/torque/temp (IAT and EAT) can stock block handle?
      • IMHO, from being on these forums for a few years, and reading different descriptions of ecobooms, I'd be leery of taking the stock block over 400whp. Maybe even like 375.
    • How much torque can we make at 18-22 psi?
      • No clue
    • How much force can stock pistons/rods/crank handle?
      • There are some good deep dives around here that talk extensively about the internals. I'd use google search with site modifier "site:mustangecoboost.net" for different terms. For the most part, the "weakest spot" of the 2.3 block is probably the reinforcement along the cylinder walls.
    • How much psi/temp are stock manifolds rated for?
      • Never has been noted to be a weak spot. ModernAutoPerformance used to make a billet aluminum replacement a while back, but stopped doing so because there was ZERO demand outside of aesthetic
    • How much temp can injectors/valves take?
      • The weak spot in the fuel system is the High Pressure Fuel Pump, BEFORE the injectors become a limiter.
  • Figure out mass airflow and pressure we would need to make “X” hp at that psi
    • What is psi/boost going to look like with chosen upgrades?
      • Bigger turbo
        • This and E85 are what people usually do to go big horsepower right away. Most people go with bolt on Precision. Garret makes a turbo, but requires extra plumbin
      • Upgraded charge pipes?
        • Upgrading the charge pipes don't do much besides aesthetic and maybe presumably help your IC a bit better
      • Upgraded IC?
        • This is a must. And you need to go 'racing' which will occupy the entire nose area in front of the radiator
      • Upgraded airbox/intake runner/MAF
        • Air restriction is at the stock turbo, so with stock turbo, all you need is hi-flow filter. With upgraded turbo, then you should upgrade to a bigger CAI also.
      • Downpipe?
        • This is the restriction point for the exhaust. Good luck finding an uncatted pipe. They're gone. But you might still be able to find a hi-flow.
      • BOV?
        • Whatevs. Sound. Some people re-route it to the cold side for better response and bigger horsepower. Maybe thats for you.
      • MAP?
        • Tune+ (Adam Brunson) actually requires you to upgrade to a 3bar sensor on many of his tunes.
  • What additional supporting mods need to be made?
    • this one is actually a rhetorical question so please do not answer it, because I am already aware of a few (fuel injectors, potential upgraded cooling system, potential larger oil pump)
      • Get rid of heat. hood louvres, turbo blanket, wrap, etc.
      • methanol injection if you are keeping the stock fuel system. it will drop your charge temps...again, the bandit is heat. monitor your intake and charge temps constantly until you feel comfortable in your setup.
      • all this is the engine. plenty to be done to actually transfer this hp you wanna generate to the asphalt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So its been a rough week with midterms and such but the next few days ill be able to look into this a bit more. Monday, if time permits, im going to try and get in contact with Jessie from EMS and this weekend ill just be browsing forms seeing what else i can find.

Am on the FSAE team at my school and we have access to some engine design software - will definitely be using that to my advantage once we get the license renewed since i still have to find a starting point for all my calculations (hoping Jessie can provide some answers for this as well).

Hoping to post another update this comjng weekend but tldr: no progress, but have a bit of a plan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Big update (I know its been a while lol). College is time consuming - no surprise there. Its been real difficult to manage my workload and spend a ton of time researching advanced topics like this. On top of that I'm also taking some summer classes, so for the next month and a half ill also be a tad bogged down. Some good news is that i now have a much better idea as to how to go about this project, but I still cant really start until later in the summer. I did make the formula team for my school, so soon enough I'll be doing some basic cycle analyses anyways which is probably when i'll further update this thread.

Not that anyone has been waiting for an update, but I figured id send one regardless. Pretty much the plan is to do a real cycle analysis at different varying take pressures. Was gonna have them range from 0-22psi of boost and use the pressure inside the chamber to approximate the torque delivered to the crank. I may implement some python to help this go a bit quicker. All the math I do will serve as justification when selecting parts for the internals, and id be incorporating an FOS. After that, I was going to choose injectors, plugs, and a fuel pump as well as any other supporting mods like a radiotor or oil cooler since I do be from Texas.

Thats the jist - thank you for reading if youre still following along :)
 

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Big update (I know its been a while lol). College is time consuming - no surprise there.
As a UF grad, I will be happy to inform you...that it only gets worse. Much worse. Wait until you have so many responsibilities, to so many people, wife, boss (multiple bosses?), kids, parents, yourself (career enhancement), you barely have time to get a haircut, or even eat a decent meal that's not standing up, or devouring it because it stands in the way of the next thing you gotta get done.

Sorry. I know college was bad too. But it gets infinitely worse. Unless you stay single, have no kids, and really don't interact much with your parents or other immediate family.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Another update: yeah so definitely gonna have to postpone most of this til later lmao.

I will be doing stuff with my FSAE team all year. Any cycle analysis or engine diagnostic skills I pick up will make this easier down the line, plus I its more important to build on my understanding of engines before just going ham. The good news is I'm set to graduate within a year and then I'll definitely be spending whatever of that engineer salary I can on the 'stang (gonna buy a beater first though).

Anyways, if anyone has any recs for reliability mods that would be super helpful. I figure that if i still want the joy of working on the car and learning about engine operation, no better way to do it than by making what I already have work better. Currently looking into catch cans (FP and Mishi) bc I have noticed higher oil pressures since running my mods and ik turbo DI engines are super susceptible to deposit buildup.
 

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Another update: yeah so definitely gonna have to postpone most of this til later lmao.

I will be doing stuff with my FSAE team all year. Any cycle analysis or engine diagnostic skills I pick up will make this easier down the line, plus I its more important to build on my understanding of engines before just going ham. The good news is I'm set to graduate within a year and then I'll definitely be spending whatever of that engineer salary I can on the 'stang (gonna buy a beater first though).

Anyways, if anyone has any recs for reliability mods that would be super helpful. I figure that if i still want the joy of working on the car and learning about engine operation, no better way to do it than by making what I already have work better. Currently looking into catch cans (FP and Mishi) bc I have noticed higher oil pressures since running my mods and ik turbo DI engines are super susceptible to deposit buildup.
Which catch can did you decide to install on your Mustang?
 
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