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On a chassis dyno they try to use the gear that will give as close to a 1 to 1 output as possible. On our cars I know 5th & 6th are overdriven gears so you would never use that. If you are doing datalogs on the street the tuner (or you) should not want to do a datalog pull in 4th. That would be a big ticket for sure... On a chassis dyno I bet they do the money runs in 4th.
 

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To be honest a third gear pull here all the way to red line is instant loss of licence and car possible impounded and crushed under anti hooning laws. Oh and a huge fine just to finish it off in the thousands of dollars.
 

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To be honest a third gear pull here all the way to red line is instant loss of licence and car possible impounded and crushed under anti hooning laws. Oh and a huge fine just to finish it off in the thousands of dollars.
Exactly my point. And you can't do the pulls in 2nd or 1st because you wouldn't be at any particular RPM long enough to get good data. 3rd gear it is on the street...
 

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2020 ecoboost base coupe,auto
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Discussion Starter #24
On a chassis dyno I bet they do the money runs in 4th.
My buddy Earl has a race car shop here in Louisiana will not touch a car past 2012 and above on his chassis dyno! I know why! Because of the EPA!
This is Earl at one year of Drag Week.................
39639

This is his truck............
39640


You can say he is a Ford guy!
 

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This is me on Drag Week!
 

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I would be concerned if you are consistently hitting over 25 pounds of boost for any long intervals on the stock engine. There has been much discussion on how much boost these engines will handle due to the deck design without eventually going ecoboom. Having blown a head gasket myself (cylinder 3), I can definitely tell you that I was consistently hitting 25 with spikes up to 28. Of course this was after my turbo died and I replaced it with the HP version without immediately retuning. There has also been a lot of debate on how good the stage 2 tune really is. Many people are happy with stage 1 and 3, but if you search the forum, there are a bunch of mixed reviews on stage 2. Before I went custom tune, I ran the stage 3 since I had all the required upgrades to support it.
 

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@93coupe427 Coyote Chaser has a 6 speed manual trans, and you have the A10, so your probably going through the traps in different gears. Also, I agree with KewlWinter about the high boost and head gaskets. It seems like once you boost into the high 20s, it's only a matter of time until you blow the head gasket. You can upgrade to a better head gasket and head studs, to avoid this. What was your best ET, MPH, and 60ft, when you were stock?
 

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@93coupe427 See my attached chart, for gear, speed, and RPM info. These numbers will be valid for you, if you have 3.15 rear gears, the 10R80, trans, and stock height wheels and tires. My tires are 235/50/18, but all stock wheel and tire combos are about the same height or diameter. Also, I put the tenth gear ratio in the eighth gear slot. Eighth gear is actually .85. I let my 10R80 auto shift at the dragstrip, because the paddle shifters suck at WOT. Using the paddles at WOT, there is a significant delay between hitting the paddle and the trans actually shifting. It's fine on part throttle shifts.
My trans auto shifts at 5700 rpm, which seems ideal, for a stock engine and turbo.
 

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2020 ecoboost base coupe,auto
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Discussion Starter #30
@93coupe427 See my attached chart, for gear, speed, and RPM info. These numbers will be valid for you, if you have 3.15 rear gears, the 10R80, trans, and stock height wheels and tires. My tires are 235/50/18, but all stock wheel and tire combos are about the same height or diameter. Also, I put the tenth gear ratio in the eighth gear slot. Eighth gear is actually .85. I let my 10R80 auto shift at the dragstrip, because the paddle shifters suck at WOT. Using the paddles at WOT, there is a significant delay between hitting the paddle and the trans actually shifting. It's fine on part throttle shifts.
My trans auto shifts at 5700 rpm, which seems ideal, for a stock engine and turbo.
Thanks!
Best time with car stock was 13.36 @ 102, with only a drop in filter bought from summit. This was traction control off, sport mode with shifter and 2,200 rpm hard on brakes. I let trans shift by itself, same rpm as yours. I have the 17" tires as my car is the base ecoboost at 3740 lbs with me in car and half tank fuel.
39658


This is my first turbo car, learning the ropes on it!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I will be back at track tonight running my ecoboost again.
Track is in Erwinville, La just outside of Baton Rouge, La. I have been racing at that track since 1974. Yes! I'm old! LOL!
But young at heart still!
 

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I will be back at track tonight running my ecoboost again.
Track is in Erwinville, La just outside of Baton Rouge, La. I have been racing at that track since 1974. Yes! I'm old! LOL!
But young at heart still!
Let us know how you did tonight. My best was a 13.23 at 105.6 mph and a 1.96 60 ft. I ran consistent 1.90s, in the 60ft, with my 235/50/18 tires set at 25 psi. I was launching at 1500-1700 rpm, as anything higher gave me too much tire spin. Those times were at 62° on a 341' elevation track. Good luck tonight.
 

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On a chassis dyno they try to use the gear that will give as close to a 1 to 1 output as possible. On our cars I know 5th & 6th are overdriven gears so you would never use that. If you are doing datalogs on the street the tuner (or you) should not want to do a datalog pull in 4th. That would be a big ticket for sure... On a chassis dyno I bet they do the money runs in 4th.
Depends on year also. I believe 15-17 uses different ratios than 18+. I wanna say one is 1 to 1 in 4th and one is in 5th but I can't remember which.

Edit: I found it. 15-17 is 1:1 in 5th with overdriven 6th. 18+ is 1:1 in 4th, 5th and 6th overdriven. (manuals of course).
 

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A minus means it's pulling timing out, and a plus number is adding timing. IMHO you should data log that info along with rpm's that way you can watch and see where and when it's pulling or adding timing.
 

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@93coupe427 Coyote Chaser has a 6 speed manual trans, and you have the A10, so your probably going through the traps in different gears. Also, I agree with KewlWinter about the high boost and head gaskets. It seems like once you boost into the high 20s, it's only a matter of time until you blow the head gasket. You can upgrade to a better head gasket and head studs, to avoid this. What was your best ET, MPH, and 60ft, when you were stock?
No, I have a stock 10 speed automatic transmission with out any tuning. Plus 3.15 gears, the only difference is I run with 26" tires on 17" wheels...
 

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I will be back at track tonight running my ecoboost again.
Track is in Erwinville, La just outside of Baton Rouge, La. I have been racing at that track since 1974. Yes! I'm old! LOL!
But young at heart still!
Can you do me a favor and log your charge temperature? I hit 146+ in testing and 131+ today in qualify. Thanks! And Good Luck!!
 

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A minus means it's pulling timing out, and a plus number is adding timing. IMHO you should data log that info along with rpm's that way you can watch and see where and when it's pulling or adding timing.
What are all the possible causes for the ECU to pull timing?
 

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What are all the possible causes for the ECU to pull timing?
I'm guessing the main reason would be spark knock. Could be other things going on, coil pack, faulty plug wire, faulty injector, etc etc etc
 
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