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Discussion Starter #81
Cvfab
I don’t know if it’s metal or ceramic but oem is ceramic I believe so if it’s the cheaper one whatever. Good enough I assume. Worst case if the cat goes bad I would just buy a high quality 200 cell replacement metal and have my friend cut it open remove old one and swap them out weld them back together.

It’s 200 count cell

I ordered vibrant 11619 and it arrives Monday or Tuesday.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
The Cobb was sold just now to another eco owner locally. Nice guy, got every penny I paid for it off eBay back. 338
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Amazon has the item marked as delayed, they gave me a 15 dollar credit.

then after they did

item said it’s out for delivery. Woo. 90 bucks for that OBD- will simply use that 15 for all the pids
 

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All I’m going to say is I had issues with my Accessport. Here is an article I came across, don’t know if anybody else saw this but here’s a portion of the article I can post the whole article if someone want it. Key take away tuners don’t have full access to the pcm.

There's opportunity left in the base calibration," said Kershaw. "We can be a little more aggressive with some of the spark, and we can make the assumption that the customer will always use premium fuel."
That assumption is the most important bit here. It's what allows Ford Performance to change the spark timing and fuel maps for the engine, and also increase turbo boost pressure slightly. Since Ford Performance is an in-house tuning division as well, it can tweak the engine software in ways others can't.

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"We have access to things in the software that the typical aftermarket would not," said Kershaw. "When we send out our calibrations, all of our stuff is encrypted because we don't really want to see the aftermarket where we're going and what we're doing."
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I honestly believe the ford tune is one of the safest tunes, not strongest but safe. That’s before I downpiped of course
 

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I agree, unfortunately for us Ford is the one that knows what the absolute limits are under various conditions. Of course the ultimate solution would be to do our bolt on mods and have the Ford performance gurus do the custom tuning. Perhaps one day Ford performance would offer this, but I doubt it will ever happen. So all we can do is keep are fingers crossed everything goes good during our tuning process. I had to have my mustang reflashed to stock at the dealer.
 

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FP will never do custom tuning, to much liability.
1. The EPA would love nothing better than making an example of Ford for selling illegal tunes (every tune you get from a small tuning outfit is illegal because it has not been certified).
2. They don't want the assume the risk of something going wrong.

Dave
 

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I was just thinking along the lines of how Ford offers performance upgrades.(granted some are race only products) but they do offer CAI, exhaust etc. that are street/emissions legal. So if you we’re to do street legal bolt on stuff with a tune from FP that was still emission legal. I would be curious to see what the results would be. Plus Ford has to careful about having the ecoboost to close to the GT.
 

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Tomorrow I want to data log a drive and wot

what sensors should I have going?

View attachment 37097
That's not where you set it up. You have to go into Settings-->Preferences-->Logging-->Select PIDs-->Ford,Lincoln,Mercury (assuming you purchased them)

Then, everytime you 'connect' to the dongle WiFi or bluetooth....it automatically starts reading and logging. You would come back to this screen for the files.

Pro Tip: Don't select more than 10 or so PIDs to log. There is only so much output the dongle can give. If you select too many, you will see a lot of 'gaps' in time.

If you go back to my datazap screenshot, you can see each PID that I selected for logging.

37098
 

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Just snagged all your pid’s and yeah I bought them. Only cost $9.99 when I did it tonight. Not bad. Will try out tomorrow
Your dashboard is another menu you can setup that is separate from the logging. The items you setup on your dashboard are for display only, and don't get logged (unless you ALSO include them in the logging settings). Again, in order not to overload the output bus, I chose many PIDs that don't really change all that much like 'knock' and 'misfire' counts. Besides, I wanna see if those counts get incremented live, not after the fact, when I have no clue as to why it may be happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
I made a dash button for “oar” octane quality. I always wondered if sams club fuel is -1.00

the Costco fuel cane up as -1.00 on Cobb. It’s top tier. But sams is cheap and non top, so hoping it’s-1.00 too, as I use it 99% of time. Rarely do I make it down to Costco but I use sams club everyday. Irs down road and saves 70c per gallon for 93

I used it to clear the cel for the cat since my o2 spacer isn’t here yet
 

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Top Tier is a consortium of fuel providers that have agreed to put more detergent additives in the gasoline than is mandated by the government. It will not have a direct impact on your Octane Adjust Ratio (OAR).

Gasoline is a commodity; it could have been refined by Mobil, transported to a distribution center by Texaco, be dumped into the tanks at a distribution center owned by Citgo and wind up in the tanks at your local Chevron station. This scenario will be different in every part of the country and is why in some areas you can only get 91 others only 93 and in some areas 91 & 93 are available. It all depends on what refinery's are supplying fuel in your area.

While the octane rating of the fuel you use will have a direct impact on OAR it is how your particular engine reacts to the fuel that determines it. If you have an engineering with an overly sensitive knock sensor you may never see -1 but another engine with a less sensitive knock sensor has no problem seeing an OAR of -1. Changing fuel brands won't typically impact the OAR.


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Did a data log with my FP tune and downpipe, from sams club after filling up gas. 93 octane.

Like a couple minutes in, I do a WOT. you should see it.

if anyone knows what exactly is going on, let me know. my fuel trimming looks a little bad. it says like 8% for long term, and like a couple percent for short trim.

220 seconds area is when I did my WOT onto highway, I may of shifted few times but it was wot pulls

 

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Discussion Starter #96
Your dashboard is another menu you can setup that is separate from the logging. The items you setup on your dashboard are for display only, and don't get logged (unless you ALSO include them in the logging settings). Again, in order not to overload the output bus, I chose many PIDs that don't really change all that much like 'knock' and 'misfire' counts. Besides, I wanna see if those counts get incremented live, not after the fact, when I have no clue as to why it may be happening.
I think the cvfab catted downpipe honestly works just fine with FP tune. I have been reading the numbers etc. seems it’s correcting just fine. Maybe a couple percent difference bUt it appears that the ford ecu is compensating the trims just fine to compensate.
Just my opinion. I’m not really worried about running it anymore.

thinking of swapping plugs though,there’s ruthenium plugs that has same heat range as Oem. Supposedly a pretty nice plug.
Bad idea to change?
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Thinking of buying this little doodad to gap my plugs, it comes with feeler gauge. Here are the plug chart, it shows one is OEM equivalent, heat stage 6. then the ruthenium is also heat stage 6.

Thinking of trying the rutheniums myself. I might put new plugs in just because I dont know if my oem ones was gapped perfectly from factory, im at 25k myself.

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thinking of swapping plugs though,there’s ruthenium plugs that has same heat range as Oem. Supposedly a pretty nice plug.
Bad idea to change?
I don't think its a "bad idea". Many people like the NGKs. I ran them myself for a while, but I noticed that they kind of killed my MPG's a bit, without really giving me anything on the butt dyno....so I've stuck with Motorcraft SP537s. Motorcraft did offer a similar 'colder plug' with SP542 for a while, but they discontinued them. I would say that NGKs would probably be the ONLY plug I would consider. I've read many different posts here about people trying other plugs and even having disastrous consequences.
RIP E3 PLUGS

Thinking of buying this little doodad to gap my plugs
I bought one myself. If you are going to 'colder plugs', they won't last as long, and you will probably be swapping them out at least once a year. So its a good idea. Every SP537 that I've found has come properly gapped at the OEM spec, so I really haven't had much use for it
 

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Discussion Starter #99
I don't think its a "bad idea". Many people like the NGKs. I ran them myself for a while, but I noticed that they kind of killed my MPG's a bit, without really giving me anything on the butt dyno....so I've stuck with Motorcraft SP537s. Motorcraft did offer a similar 'colder plug' with SP542 for a while, but they discontinued them. I would say that NGKs would probably be the ONLY plug I would consider. I've read many different posts here about people trying other plugs and even having disastrous consequences.
RIP E3 PLUGS


I bought one myself. If you are going to 'colder plugs', they won't last as long, and you will probably be swapping them out at least once a year. So its a good idea. Every SP537 that I've found has come properly gapped at the OEM spec, so I really haven't had much use for it
I will be sticking with oem plug heat as that is what the ford perf tune was designed for, I was just wondering if the ruthenium's would of been a solid contender from the stock plugs.

How did they look when you pulled them? I get great mpg, and great performance. but would like to just swap a set for piece of mind, its 25k, I dont mind every 25k interval, or maybe 50k. but 10k colder plugs is just annoying.


btw what is proper gap for stock plugs? I read its .028 or whatever for the 9510's
 

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I will be sticking with oem plug heat as that is what the ford perf tune was designed for, I was just wondering if the ruthenium's would of been a solid contender from the stock plugs.

How did they look when you pulled them? I get great mpg, and great performance. but would like to just swap a set for piece of mind, its 25k, I dont mind every 25k interval, or maybe 50k. but 10k colder plugs is just annoying.
I have since switched to the NGK 1 step cooler plug gapped to .028" from tune+. I've gone down the custom tune rabbit hole of course so different people will have different needs for their car. The gap on all 4 plugs for me is consistent for each cylinder unlike the OEM plugs which have been known to be inconsistent from the factory. You could buy the motor craft plugs and gap them yourself to get consistent gap for each cylinder.
 
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