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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As requested I’ve had some successful builds over the years in a E36 M3 in SCCA STU and the all time winningest car in SCCA B street history the BMW 1M GULF car. I’ve been blessed with a lot of people that know how to develop and sort cars in Dallas.

Treat me like I know nothing. I’m humble but will build a winner and share what I learn as I learn it.


Just bought a 2020 with HPP and handling package.

What are the known next steps for setup?

SCCA street class rules don’t allow camberplates or springs fyi

Wheels - has anyone tried 18’s replacing the 19x9.5?

Shocks - any reason to change from the handling package shocks ?

Sway bars - any reason to change from the handling package stock bars?

Camber - crash bolts? 2 degrees?

Tires - anything better than the others ?

Toe front?

Toe rear?

I’ll be sharing as I sort but would love to hear the tribal knowledge.

Here is the last 2 builds





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My dd mustang has 19x9.5 but I’m on 285/35/19’s

I don’t do anything except drive as a daily though

if you’re gonna change stuff, go steeda, complete suspension sway strut and shock package, with camber plates, it’ll all be far superior in every way to what Ford has on your car.
 

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I have no reference for the 2020 HPP stuff. Honestly I'd do a few events before I would want to change anything on that car. Since you've done this before, you're well aware that putting together too many changes will bump you out of DS, and certainly what FreedomPenguin is suggestion will throw you immediately into CAM.
 
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Just bought a 2020 with HPP and handling package.

What are the known next steps for setup?
Intercooler
Wheels - has anyone tried 18’s replacing the 19x9.5?
Most Eco Mustangs run 18's. Theoretically, they are a bit faster in a short sprint.
Shocks - any reason to change from the handling package shocks ?
Not really. The PP shocks are "double tube" vs monotube on stock.
Sway bars - any reason to change from the handling package stock bars?
The PP has an upgraded REAR swaybar. But for the front, you can do better.
Camber - crash bolts? 2 degrees?
Only if your putting some lowering springs on. Major camber adjustments are near impossible because of the small size of the strut tower opening in the engine bay. Steeda actually sells a tool that will alllow you to cut it out some, allowing for more camber.
Tires - anything better than the others ?
You're gonna get a lot of opinions on this.
Toe front?
Not as far as I know.
Toe rear?
Some rear toe is good for hard launching. But if you're gonna make an adjustment, you already should have the upgraded PP toe links, but maybe should pair them up with the FP toe to knuckle bushings.
I’ll be sharing as I sort but would love to hear the tribal knowledge.

Here is the last 2 builds

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have no reference for the 2020 HPP stuff. Honestly I'd do a few events before I would want to change anything on that car. Since you've done this before, you're well aware that putting together too many changes will bump you out of DS, and certainly what FreedomPenguin is suggestion will throw you immediately into CAM.
I’m hoping someone is in front of me developing to share the experience.

I’m going to run it as is a few times. Biggest thing is to move to 18’s to get off the corner or stay at 19’s.

How much tire can you get around these cars?

Will the front do a 295?


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I run 285/35R19 Bridgestone Potenza RE71r for Autocross. going to 18's would give you a more available tire sizes. You can technically get 305's up front with the right offset and wide enough wheels.
 

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To stay in DS you have limited mods. Ford factory manual allows you oval the top strut hole and get up to -1.75 degrees of camber legally. Depending on wheel offset you maybe able to get there, I am running -1.6 and have about 5mm clearance between the tire and strut. Other improvements are after cat exhaust, shocks, brake pads and one sway bar. I am running 19X 9.5 aftermarket wheels at 22 lbs apiece with BFG 275-35-19. Since I built the car for concrete and hot days in N. CA. last year I bought the BFGs (plus they are made in NC). For lower grip surfaces I would go with the Falkens 660s. Yokohamas appear to be the fastest but they create a bigger tire bill due to wear. I will start this year with 33 front and 31 rear tire pressure, my buddy with a HPP is running RE-71s (275-35-19) at 31-32 front and 29-30 rear. I thought about 18s but with limited funds I could not afford another wheel/tire set. If you go with them let us know how you like them. I did get a Borla exhaust to try and save some weight but at about $1500 per pound savings, not much help. It does sound better and is a little louder. Data below:
38688

38689



counterclockwise course tire temps, F, car as viewed from above
Front
133​
131​
130​
143​
142​
151​
33​
Rear
131​
135​
136​
141​
141​
141​
31​
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To stay in DS you have limited mods. Ford factory manual allows you oval the top strut hole and get up to -1.75 degrees of camber legally. Depending on wheel offset you maybe able to get there, I am running -1.6 and have about 5mm clearance between the tire and strut. Other improvements are after cat exhaust, shocks, brake pads and one sway bar. I am running 19X 9.5 aftermarket wheels at 22 lbs apiece with BFG 275-35-19. Since I built the car for concrete and hot days in N. CA. last year I bought the BFGs (plus they are made in NC). For lower grip surfaces I would go with the Falkens 660s. Yokohamas appear to be the fastest but they create a bigger tire bill due to wear. I will start this year with 33 front and 31 rear tire pressure, my buddy with a HPP is running RE-71s (275-35-19) at 31-32 front and 29-30 rear. I thought about 18s but with limited funds I could not afford another wheel/tire set. If you go with them let us know how you like them. I did get a Borla exhaust to try and save some weight but at about $1500 per pound savings, not much help. It does sound better and is a little louder. Data below:
View attachment 38688
View attachment 38689


counterclockwise course tire temps, F, car as viewed from above
Front
133​
131​
130​
143​
142​
151​
33​
Rear
131​
135​
136​
141​
141​
141​
31​
Thank you looking through it
 

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Howdy Kerry. Ain't nothing I can tell you, except tire availability is a hell of a lot better for the 18" wheels.

Now step up and introduce yourself so they all know what kind of Auto-X n00b you are NOT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Howdy Kerry. Ain't nothing I can tell you, except tire availability is a hell of a lot better for the 18" wheels.

Now step up and introduce yourself so they all know what kind of Auto-X n00b you are NOT.
I’ll edit top of the post. Didn’t want to come of the board and sound like a know it all lol.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Winning run in my car from nationals in 2018. I missed the trophies by 0.007 that year. Soul crushing and exciting all at the same time. I only got one run before the rain but Jeremy getting a jacket was priceless.



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To stay in DS you have limited mods. Ford factory manual allows you oval the top strut hole and get up to -1.75 degrees of camber legally. Depending on wheel offset you maybe able to get there, I am running -1.6 and have about 5mm clearance between the tire and strut. Other improvements are after cat exhaust, shocks, brake pads and one sway bar. I am running 19X 9.5 aftermarket wheels at 22 lbs apiece with BFG 275-35-19. Since I built the car for concrete and hot days in N. CA. last year I bought the BFGs (plus they are made in NC). For lower grip surfaces I would go with the Falkens 660s. Yokohamas appear to be the fastest but they create a bigger tire bill due to wear. I will start this year with 33 front and 31 rear tire pressure, my buddy with a HPP is running RE-71s (275-35-19) at 31-32 front and 29-30 rear. I thought about 18s but with limited funds I could not afford another wheel/tire set. If you go with them let us know how you like them. I did get a Borla exhaust to try and save some weight but at about $1500 per pound savings, not much help. It does sound better and is a little louder. Data below:
View attachment 38688
View attachment 38689


counterclockwise course tire temps, F, car as viewed from above
Front
133​
131​
130​
143​
142​
151​
33​
Rear
131​
135​
136​
141​
141​
141​
31​
I actually ran the RE71R's 29 all around on the asphalt, but went up a bit on concrete. I may be moving to 18's next season, pending delivery of wheels, and assuming they fit. My alignment was set the same as BluHPP's, but I have not done any other mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·


This is the wrap we are going to do on the car. Looking for local sponsors like automotive businesses and food trucks.

Believe it or not it’s not as hard as you think to get businesses to offset the cost. I’ll get a Ford dealership on board and a few local businesses shortly.


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
One of the local pizza places bought a spot this morning.

Had PPG reach out if you can believe that. That’s a little past food trucks. I’m always surprised at what the race car people in my timeline do for a living.


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OK, so you don't need us to tell you to just go drive it first before making changes. Squid is right though, tire availability is much better in 18". Cheaper too.

I will tell you that the Civic Type R has dominated DS down here in Austin/San Antonio for the last several years. none of the Mustangs or Camaros can even get close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Today was a down day as I found out SCCA PRO solo does not have a D street class but rather a bump class.


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They may still own it. The m going to have fun and hope for the best.
Yes the Type Rs are 500 pounds lighter and almost the same power and torque to weight ratios. They are also most aesthetically challenging vehicles in the class, IMHO. Sorry about the pro solo class issue though.
 
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