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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey, so I am wondering about my 2015 Ecoboost Premium. I am currently trying to figure out just what happened to my Ecoboost. I am pretty good with vehicles, but this has me a bit lost and I’m just doing things as I go at this point. My mods so far are:
  • COBB Stage 3 Pro Tune
  • Increased Turbo (28PSI)
  • C&L Bypass Valve
  • Roush Cold Air Intake
  • Mishimoto Downpipe
  • MBRP Cat Back ATTK
  • Rear Seat Delete kit
  • Mishimoto intercooler
  • BBK 65mm ThrottleBody
  • ThrottleBody spacer
    I was cruising on the interstate with cruise control and when I pressed the “+” to go up in speed it sounded like something broke into a bunch of pieces and there was smoke/oil coming out of my engine bay and exhaust. the block didn’t crack since I could still accelerate and the trans it’s still good since I could shift, right? I checked the engine bay and nothing is missing, but there is oil everywhere. I checked under the car and found a huge crackin the bottom of my oil pan and where a majority of the oil is splattered on my car. My car reads two error codes though: P0097 and P2282. I have just ordered a new oil pan, oil, filter, plugs (for safety), and fuel pressure sensor. Does anyone have any ideas before I start working on it once the parts get here?
 

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I'd pull the oil pan before ordering parts, you could have thrown a rod, it's happened to quite a few hopped up ecoboosts, if you did you may want to consider replacing the engine, or maybe just the short block assembly, depends on what else is damaged.
 

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hey, so I am wondering about my 2015 Ecoboost Premium. I am currently trying to figure out just what happened to my Ecoboost. I am pretty good with vehicles, but this has me a bit lost and I’m just doing things as I go at this point. My mods so far are:
  • COBB Stage 3 Pro Tune
  • Increased Turbo (28PSI)
  • C&L Bypass Valve
  • Roush Cold Air Intake
  • Mishimoto Downpipe
  • MBRP Cat Back ATTK
  • Rear Seat Delete kit
  • Mishimoto intercooler
  • BBK 65mm ThrottleBody
  • ThrottleBody spacer
    I was cruising on the interstate with cruise control and when I pressed the “+” to go up in speed it sounded like something broke into a bunch of pieces and there was smoke/oil coming out of my engine bay and exhaust. the block didn’t crack since I could still accelerate and the trans it’s still good since I could shift, right? I checked the engine bay and nothing is missing, but there is oil everywhere. I checked under the car and found a huge crackin the bottom of my oil pan and where a majority of the oil is splattered on my car. My car reads two error codes though: P0097 and P2282. I have just ordered a new oil pan, oil, filter, plugs (for safety), and fuel pressure sensor. Does anyone have any ideas before I start working on it once the parts get here?
Why start ordering parts when you don't even know what happened for sure???

You say increased turbo? Like you replaced it with aftermarket? But if you really were running 28psi on stock block and internals than you were absolutely asking to blow your sh** the f**k up.....

I'm starting to think I may need the troll spray for this post too.

35121
 

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If a rod broke (which is very likely) it is near impossible that the block survived. Something cracked the pan. If it was indeed a rod then that rod went up and down several times before it finally fell down to crack the pan. While it was still traveling up it was damaging whatever it was touching. Hoping for the best for you but it doesn't look promising

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Why start ordering parts when you don't even know what happened for sure???

You say increased turbo? Like you replaced it with aftermarket? But if you really were running 28psi on stock block and internals than you were absolutely asking to blow your sh** the f**k up.....

I'm starting to think I may need the troll spray for this post too.

View attachment 35121
Thanks for replying, I went ahead and started ordering since I knew for a fact those were things I have to replace now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is it a manual? We're you in 6th gear when you increased the cruise control speed? Depending on the RPM'S the engine was at, you could've demanded too much of the poor engine.
Automatic, I was in 6th and the vehicle went to go downshift to 5th when it happened.
 

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Those codes are air intake/manifold related, probably from an instant massive spike in pcv gasses caused by a piston breaking into pieces.
I suspect that if you were to pull the intake manifold off you would find a rod poked a hole through the block then ripped through the windage tray and broke the oil pan.

The head and the turbo may be salvageable but the shortblock seems doomed.

The cause could be low speed pre ignition or a flaw in a rod or piston became critical and the rotating assembly came apart.

Stage 3 on the stock motor is an "all bets are off" as far a reliability goes.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 

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Ecoboost 2.3L are pretty notorious for rod and piston failure. Its part of the problem with direct injected turbo engines. To keep the fuel ratio proper, the ECU is constantly taking it to pre ignition and then adjusting timing. So really they knock all the time you just don't notice. Mine blew up under warranty. If I had anything but a Ford Performance tune on, the warranty would have been voided. If I were to go with that fabulous Mishi downpipe and a different tune, required for getting the best power out of an EB, I would go with honed cylinders and beefed up internals like Mahle pistons / rods. In the end I think only Ford knows why these go boom. Certainly a Stage three tune will lead to problems faster, but there may not be proper oiling going on, or a defect somewhere that they dont want to talk about for fear of a recall. Certainly its the topic of much discussion and theres alot of mis information out there. If you are going to need a new engine I would suggest a 2020 with the Hi performance motor, and magna ride. $42k before local taxes, as quoted to me by a dealer. A new motor is going to be around $6k, before install, and before adding robust internals, and before a tune whether Ford Performance or not. Ford governed speed to 123 mph for a reason. The engine is robust enough for most to last 60k miles. Some go boom at 15-20k miles. Mine went boom at 61K. Ford Performance CAI tune on that. I would contact a place like Livernois to have them build/rebuild an engine. I got a new longblock but my dealer went to bat for me. Soon Im out of warranty on everything and will buy an extended warranty. The best defense is upgraded internals. Good luck.
 

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Ecoboost 2.3L are pretty notorious for rod and piston failure. Its part of the problem with direct injected turbo engines. To keep the fuel ratio proper, the ECU is constantly taking it to pre ignition and then adjusting timing. So really they knock all the time you just don't notice. Mine blew up under warranty. If I had anything but a Ford Performance tune on, the warranty would have been voided. If I were to go with that fabulous Mishi downpipe and a different tune, required for getting the best power out of an EB, I would go with honed cylinders and beefed up internals like Mahle pistons / rods. In the end I think only Ford knows why these go boom. Certainly a Stage three tune will lead to problems faster, but there may not be proper oiling going on, or a defect somewhere that they dont want to talk about for fear of a recall. Certainly its the topic of much discussion and theres alot of mis information out there. If you are going to need a new engine I would suggest a 2020 with the Hi performance motor, and magna ride. $42k before local taxes, as quoted to me by a dealer. A new motor is going to be around $6k, before install, and before adding robust internals, and before a tune whether Ford Performance or not. Ford governed speed to 123 mph for a reason. The engine is robust enough for most to last 60k miles. Some go boom at 15-20k miles. Mine went boom at 61K. Ford Performance CAI tune on that. I would contact a place like Livernois to have them build/rebuild an engine. I got a new longblock but my dealer went to bat for me. Soon Im out of warranty on everything and will buy an extended warranty. The best defense is upgraded internals. Good luck.
Reading stuff like this always makes me second guess how much longer I want to keep my '15 before trading it in. Mine's stock aside from a Cobb CAI and Outlaw Axle-backs and just rolled over 31k. It's a fun car the way it is now for me considering the terrible daily traffic I drive it in. It's zippy as hell, and there's a highway section of my daily drive where the car still makes me smile when I get to open her up.

I like to think I do a decent job of maintaining the car. I use Mobile 1 full syn with Motorcraft filter every ~3k miles and I change it myself. I occasionally beat on it, but I try to be mindful about it. Though I did send the **** out of it when my brother visited a couple weeks ago for Thanksgiving, ha.

Overall after 1.5 years of ownership, I'm still in love with the car, but I would also be SUPREMELY annoyed if there were a major mechanical malfunction looming in the near future for me. I've considered a trade for a ~2016 GT, but haven't pulled the trigger on that because honestly, I love driving the turbo 4 too much. Just hate feeling like the engine is a ticking time bomb sometimes. lol
 

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Reading stuff like this always makes me second guess how much longer I want to keep my '15 before trading it in. Mine's stock aside from a Cobb CAI and Outlaw Axle-backs and just rolled over 31k. It's a fun car the way it is now for me considering the terrible daily traffic I drive it in. It's zippy as hell, and there's a highway section of my daily drive where the car still makes me smile when I get to open her up.

I like to think I do a decent job of maintaining the car. I use Mobile 1 full syn with Motorcraft filter every ~3k miles and I change it myself. I occasionally beat on it, but I try to be mindful about it. Though I did send the **** out of it when my brother visited a couple weeks ago for Thanksgiving, ha.

Overall after 1.5 years of ownership, I'm still in love with the car, but I would also be SUPREMELY annoyed if there were a major mechanical malfunction looming in the near future for me. I've considered a trade for a ~2016 GT, but haven't pulled the trigger on that because honestly, I love driving the turbo 4 too much. Just hate feeling like the engine is a ticking time bomb sometimes. lol
Just gonna repost this from a post I had on 6g.

The most important thing you can do is make sure you have your supporting mods first and stay up on proper oil changes and change your plugs every 15-20k.

Intercooler, catch can, pcv baffle plate, a quality drop in filter and properly gapped ngk plugs are IMO the most important to help mitigate the effects of LSPI in our motors. No matter how good your tune is and even if you have all these mods done, you will still have LSPI its just a fact of life for a DI turbo 4 pot. The important thing is to do everything you can to help prevent it.

Along with these mods and maintainence, making sure you properly warm up your car before pushing it is VITAL, make sure that oil temp hits the normal range on the center stack before getting into much boost, and even then wait another 10 minutes of driving or so before you go WOT full boost. Need that oil to be 200+ degrees to get the most protection.

Lastly whatever you do at all costs do not again do not do low rpm high gear pulls in these cars, especially if you have a manual. Getting into alot of boost at low rpms is a recipe for extremely high cylinder pressures and a nice crack in the water jacket or block itself.

I have been full bolt and pro tuned for 70k of my now 90k miles, ive tried to treat my car religiously as ive laid out above and she has been solid. This coming from a guy who has had ecoboom happen to him at 20k, back then me not knowing **** about these cars thought it would be smart to floor it in 6th on the freeway on a cobb canned tune, shortly there after there was a nice pretty crack in my block between cylinders 2 and 3.

In other words take care of the car, avoid low rpm high gear pulls don't be stupid with it, don't abuse it when its still warming up, and a few supporting mods like I listed above can go a long way in preventing boom boom tuned or not.
 

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Getting into alot of boost at low rpms is a recipe for extremely high cylinder pressures and a nice crack in the water jacket or block itself.
I am stock, drive pretty lightly, plus rely on the automatic to keep the revs somewhere out of the low down/loaded range (although as noted above, that may not necessarily be relied on) but I am curious as to what constitutes "low rpms". Is that 1500, or less? Or anything below 2000?
 

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I am stock, drive pretty lightly, plus rely on the automatic to keep the revs somewhere out of the low down/loaded range (although as noted above, that may not necessarily be relied on) but I am curious as to what constitutes "low rpms". Is that 1500, or less? Or anything below 2000?
My standard is no full throttle if below 2500 RPMs, but I just kinda made that up. I also have the PP, and the 3.55 rear end. Curious to know what other ranges people use.
 

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We learned this many years ago when boosting the old Lima 2.3, allow the car to warm up fully to operating temp (as mentioned by TurboTiger). Too much boost at low rpm would bend rods etc. in our old Limas and with the tiny twin scroll turbo that comes stock in the eco I would expect full boost at wot pretty early, maybe 2300 rpm and if it’s got a load (high gear, etc) it’ll come on even sooner which is where I’ve been hearing ecobooms happening. Its got me thinking that a larger single scroll turbo that doesn’t make boost until say 4500 rpms or so would make better power and allow the motor to live longer, but I’m unsure of what the drivability off boost around town would be since there wouldn’t be much boost until higher in the rpm range.....anyone know what base hp an eco makes without boost? In our Lima’s it was about 90 hp or so but the car was about 1000 lbs lighter.
 

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My standard is no full throttle if below 2500 RPMs, but I just kinda made that up. I also have the PP, and the 3.55 rear end. Curious to know what other ranges people use.
I am stock, drive pretty lightly, plus rely on the automatic to keep the revs somewhere out of the low down/loaded range (although as noted above, that may not necessarily be relied on) but I am curious as to what constitutes "low rpms". Is that 1500, or less? Or anything below 2000?
Agreed with the above! At least 2500 rpm, usually 3k for me and roll into the boost. I try not to get into boost at all in 6th gear and very lightly in 5th if I'm above 2700-3kish.

I only will go WOT from coasting/stopped in 3rd gear or lower depending on speed/rpm. 4th gear kinda iffy depending on rpm, but never do a WOT pull from 5/6th gear cruising speed- that is when guys go boom.

I think alot of people are driving these cars like a V8 and letting the engine lug to get better mpgs, when in reality these motors like to have a little bit of revs while cruising. I know for my car, shes much happier cruising above 2.4k than down around 2k which is right where 6th gear puts me at 65-70mph. So i usually cruise in 5th unless I'm above 75mph. My engine is not worth the 2mpg loss lol.

And for the people arguing about how to squeeze more mpg out of these cars, I have one thing to say. You bought the wrong car...
 

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I know for my car, shes much happier cruising above 2.4k than down around 2k which is right where 6th gear puts me at 65-70mph. So i usually cruise in 5th unless I'm above 75mph
It's a little tougher to accomplish with the 10 speed auto. 8/9/10 are so close together that it doesn't make much difference. At 120 kph (a tick under 75 mph) in 10th, I'm turning about 2000 rpm. If I drive in S, it will maybe be 2100 or 2150, in 9th. I don't know what speed I need to drive to get it to 10th in S, I've never seen 10th in S. I suppose I could manually shift it but then that takes away the reason for having the auto in the first place.

In reality I would have been happier with the V6, which is probably what I would have done if Ford had: (a) kept it; and (b) allowed the same levels of equipment on it.
 

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It's a little tougher to accomplish with the 10 speed auto. 8/9/10 are so close together that it doesn't make much difference. At 120 kph (a tick under 75 mph) in 10th, I'm turning about 2000 rpm. If I drive in S, it will maybe be 2100 or 2150, in 9th. I don't know what speed I need to drive to get it to 10th in S, I've never seen 10th in S. I suppose I could manually shift it but then that takes away the reason for having the auto in the first place.

In reality I would have been happier with the V6, which is probably what I would have done if Ford had: (a) kept it; and (b) allowed the same levels of equipment on it.

There are times where I wish I had a procharged cyclone or swap the turbos from a 3.5 eco on to the cyclone.
 

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John, my car upshifts at about 77 mph in S when cruising. I am assuming it is shifting into 10th, but never really checked.
 
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