[gatornek]

What I used was the Dorman 03131 exhaust flange hardware kit. It's under $10 on Amazon and comes with 4 studs and nuts so you'll even have 2 spares.

So this will fit the turbo exhaust flange, as well as the engine exhaust flange?? I see that my local O'Reilly's has them in stock! This is actually a load off my mind, if its a fit! Thank you sir!!

 

[77Highboy]

I'm not sure if they will fit where the turbo bolts to the head, I didn't check that. But I do know that they work for bolting the downpipe to the turbo since that's where I used them.

 

[gatornek]

I'm not sure if they will fit where the turbo bolts to the head, I didn't check that. But I do know that they work for bolting the downpipe to the turbo since that's where I used them.

Perfect! I misunderstood. Thank you.

 

[HeightsLife]

FYI. Also wanted to let you guys know that I "cheated" in terms of the O2 sensors. I just ended up buying two new sensors.

im all for it .. start fresh.

i think you got this all under control. Grab some before pics if your sentimental..my shiny pipe is 'bronze' now after heating up..no big deal, just saying. and that first drive with the new catalytic is lil smoky and smelly.

 

[FreedomPenguin]

Did you install? Reset the kam afterwards. Let the car get fresh fuel learnings I did

 

[gatornek]

Did you install? Reset the kam afterwards. Let the car get fresh fuel learnings I did

I have it on my schedule for MLK Monday, since I have it off. I know we’ve gone over this, but can this be done on Forscan? Or is it as simple as disconnecting the battery? I do plan on disconnecting the battery while I remove the pipe out of sheer caution.

On a separate note, I’ve been hitting my two top nuts with PB blaster every night. They look almost brand new now. 😂

 

[FreedomPenguin]

I actually read about someone using forescan to reset kam. Let me try and find the thread

 

[FreedomPenguin]

I’m going to reset kam at major services, Ie. New plugs, new o2 sensors etc that kind of stuff. or major mods, well I’m done but I would of if I was making changes

Should I be concerned?

Setup my OBD fusion today and saw some concerning numbers around knock especially on cyl 4 . Car runs only 93 since I've had it and I changed plugs today. Should I run a reset on something? Car goes in for the Ford tune next week, if it needs work I'd like to know now. No engine codes and the...

www.mustangecoboost.net

 

[HeightsLife]

Good Luck today gator .. Happy Wrenching !

 

[gatornek]

Thank you. Downpipe is out. I’m glad I got the O2 sensors, because I gave removing them a try and it was stuck on there good!

so I’m also putting in a Borla resonator to hopefully get rid of any low RPM loudness(I just wanna hear it on WOTs). And I’m having a little trouble getting it to fit my Borla extensions to the muffler. Both pipes are 2.25. Do you think this is sufficient to mitigate an exhaust leak if I end up sliding the clamps over that opening. The clamps are loosened as pictured.

I have a rubber mallet and I’m tapping on top of the resonator from the downpipe side, but it’s not budging.

I’m taking a lunch break. Let me know what you guys think.

 

[HeightsLife]

Dangit ... 1/2" of frustration !! idk .. wish i was there .. i would never suggest 'settling' but so long as your comfortable with the 'bite' your getting from the clamps on both sides (in/out) of the resonator, i could live with those gaps under the clamps (after exhausting all tormenting resolutions )

 

[gatornek]

Let me say something first, if it wasn't for wanting to put in the resonator, and the next problem I found during install, which I'll describe below...I did find taking the downpipe off like butter. The PB Blaster on the nuts/studs helped tremendously and I didn't even need a breaker bar. And when I got them about a quarter of the way loose, they finger loosened the rest of the way.

So as for the problem above...with a little more solid tapping on the resonator with a rubber mallet, I was able to close that gap another quarter inch or so. Figured the clamps would plenty cover them, so left well enough alone.

But that wasn't the biggest problem. This was:

Notice how because of the lip on the studs at the base, the pipe won't seal to the turbo. Either that or I'm doing something COMPLETELY WRONG.

I had contacted MA Performance about install instructions, because they provided NONE in the box. I know you guys have given me plenty, and I know that I've watched a sh!t ton of videos on youtue, but I still find it incumbent on the manufacturer to do this. Not sure why they chinced on this. But I did contact them and asked them specifically about the gasket. I wasn't completely sold on the response I got, because I could tell that I got it from someone who didn't know what they were talking about, or even what i was referring to...but he said to simply used the supplied gasket. So I did, and above was the end result. I tried super hard to see if the downpipe holes would also slide over the lip, but nope. Not in my 30 minutes of estimation.

So what to do?

I went and I got the donut, and decided to use both. I used the MAP gasket flush against the pipe, and the donut in between that and the turbo. See here:

This SEEMED to seal up fairly nicely as I noted no exhaust coming out from in between after startup and after running the engine hard.

But this apparently is not the way, because it was a chain effect of an inch worth's of ill fit, on down the exhaust all the way to the mufflers. I even had a tough time getting the bracket for the downpipe back on. But you can see what I mean on these next two pics.

I know its a little dark, but those mufflers are hanging about an inch or two lower than where they were.

And you can see how the flex joint on the downpipe, which took most of the brunt of getting the fit right, is hanging low, as it flexed downwards.

So I'm going to contact MAP, show them my pictures and get a solid answer from a technician who knows as to what's going on with those stud lips.

But if anybody has any further ideas, I'm all ears. Once I get solid instructions, I may just take it to a shop so that they can get the whole turboback properly set. idk.

Like I said at the beginning, if it wasn't for having to put in the midpipe, and the "gasket problem", this would have been a butter install. No doubt. I see what you guys were talking about. I had the stock downpipe out in about an hour.

 

[HeightsLife]

Wow?!? idk .. is it possible they forgot to machine out a few millimeters wider on the turbo side? my CVF DP holes were 'wide' ..so it wiggled a little which is why i really wished/needed a second set of hands to steady the fit .. i didn't even notice that lil bump in the stud with my install.

Sorry brother .. otherwise ... how'd it sound?

 

[FreedomPenguin]

I’m taking my downpipe off tomorrow, I keep getting exhaust smells in my cabin and it’s giving me a headache. Instead of trying to remedy a gasket. Just gonna toss ole trusty back on tomorrow. Sucks that the exhaust guy cut my roush pipe ends off, I’m gonna use a clamp together for both sides

but shouldn’t be too bad.

I hope you figure yours out. On the cvfab, it gave a gasket, you don’t use the donut. Map idk.

 

[gatornek]

The sound is exactly what I wanted. Muffled a bit on cold starts & low RPMs (That Borla Resonator is fantastic!), and loud as hell when I open it up. I'll post audio clips as soon as I get a chance.

I've reached out to MAP to get specific directions on the "gasket question". Once they clarify that for me, I'll make a decision on how to go about fixing this. If their answer is unsatisfactory, I will absolutely put the stock downpipe back in. I'm not very pleased with how low my exhaust is hanging. And don't get me wrong, there are very well some adjustments that can be made from the cat on back. But it all starts at the downpipe. And I'll reiterate, with that inch of space from the donut, the hole just really didn't line up as well on the transmission bracket. Something is wrong, and I want it taken care of before moving forward.

 

[FreedomPenguin]

You’re the same as me if it isn’t perfect then I will go back
I keep smelling exhaust fumes, I’ve done clamped it etc real good but I’m now at the point where I’m pretty sure tomorrow if I can get a lift going to toss oem back on. May sell my cvfab catted downpipe and y pipe and all that jazz cheap.
I hate exhaust fumes so much.

 

[gatornek]

Update:

I reached out to Adam, since he used to be intertwined with MAP until he branched out into his own company. He was gracious enough to tell me that the holes on the downpipe flange should have fit over the base of the studs. I really feel that I gave this scenario a mighty "try-to-accomplish", jiggling the top of the downpipe sideways, back & forth, trying to get that 'click'. But nope. You'd also think that it would 'pop' in once I started torqueing down the nuts, no? The holes just seem too small. I'm thinking maybe its quite possible I got a manufacturing 'dud' from MAP. But I'm also leery of that because they've been making these for so [email protected] long now. How could they possibly give me a dud now?!?

I'll let you know what MAP says. They've escalated my ticket to the manufacturing team. If they come back with the same response, I'll plan for another install day. But if still doesn't work, I'm gonna put the stock pipe back in.

 

[FreedomPenguin]

And a full refund I hope

 

[Rjstevens]

How could they possibly give me a dud now?!?

COVID

 

[dgc333]

But if anybody has any further ideas, I'm all ears. Once I get solid instructions, I may just take it to a shop so that they can get the whole turboback properly set. idk.

I would drill out the holes on the down pipe flange out so they would fit over the flange on the studs. Surprised they didn't design the pipe to use the stock donut, it is a much more forgiving design.

I would suggest if you didn't already to put a liberal amount of anti-seize on the studs. Will make your life so much easier the next time you take it apart.

FWIW, back in high school and college I worked in a garage. When a regular customer came in the first time with a new vehicle we would automatically swap the exhaust manifold nuts for brass nuts. This was back in the day when all exhausts were mild steel and we new we would be doing exhaust work in a couple of years. The 10 minutes spent swapping the nuts to brass when the car was new could save a couple of hours drilling out broken studs when it came time to replace the exhaust.


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