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New to this forum. Bought my car 1 week ago Friday (2015 premium convertible). After reading through this thread I ordered one off e-bay for $23. For such a small cost, why risk it?

It sound like some of those who had issues didn't get a CEL warning before failure. I haven't dropped the $500 on a COBB because it's bone stock right now so I have no way of monitoring this PID, so this small investment is worth it.

Any other "Do this now to avoid potential issues" suggestions with these motors? Oil catch can maybe?
I’m somewhat new to the platform too - the only other thing I’ve noticed would be a spark plug swap every 10k - 25k miles. The racers seem to change more frequently. The plugs from Tune+ seem the way to go.
 

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As I understand it, the consensus is that with a stock tune, stock plugs are good for 100k or so. It's when you start running higher boost that you need to pay more attention to your plugs.

If I got that wrong, I expect one of our old pros will set us straight shortly...
 
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As I understand it, the consensus is that with a stock tune, stock plugs are good for 100k or so. It's when you start running higher boost that you need to pay more attention to your plugs.

If I got that wrong, I expect one of our old pros will set us straight shortly...
The gap size and spark plug type determines the lifespan.
A tighter gap will wear away electrodes quicker than a larger gap.
Our cars use Iridium plugs which is thought to be a long life plug but they actually come in 2 varieties, a standard lifespan high performance version and a long life standard performance version.

Iridium plugs with a designation beginning with "I" are considered high performance with a standard lifespan of 20000kms or 12000miles.

Iridium plugs with a designation beginning with “S”, “Z”, “F”, “D”, and “V” are considered long life with a lifespan of 100000km or 60000miles

So we get the following-
Motorcraft SP537 OEM plugs with a .031 gap will have a lifespan of 60000miles

NGK LTR7IX-11 6510 high performance plugs with a .028 gap will have a lifespan of 12000miles

Source-
Service Life | Basic Knowledge | SPARK PLUG | Automotive Service Parts and Accessories | DENSO Global Website

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Simple. Replace the sensor.
With the recent Cobb Stage 1 tune, I decided it was time I get with the program and ordered my upgraded sensor last night. BU5Z-9F972-B, which I hope is the right part #. Either way, I did not want to end up with a broken down engine, all because of a $25 part.
 

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The gap size and spark plug type determines the lifespan.
NGK LTR7IX-11 8510 high performance plugs with a .028 gap will have a lifespan of 12000miles
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Well, poop, and here I thought my NGK's were going to be good for around 100k... apparently not.
 

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The gap size and spark plug type determines the lifespan.
A tighter gap will wear away electrodes quicker than a larger gap.
Our cars use Iridium plugs which is thought to be a long life plug but they actually come in 2 varieties, a standard lifespan high performance version and a long life standard performance version.

Iridium plugs with a designation beginning with "I" are considered high performance with a standard lifespan of 20000kms or 12000miles.

Iridium plugs with a designation beginning with “S”, “Z”, “F”, “D”, and “V” are considered long life with a lifespan of 100000km or 60000miles

So we get the following-
Motorcraft SP537 OEM plugs with a .031 gap will have a lifespan of 60000miles

NGK LTR7IX-11 6510 high performance plugs with a .028 gap will have a lifespan of 12000miles

Source-
Service Life | Basic Knowledge | SPARK PLUG | Automotive Service Parts and Accessories | DENSO Global Website

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Those letter designations only apply to Denso plugs and have no baring on the Motorcraft or NGK plugs mentioned.



Dave
 

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Those letter designations only apply to Denso plugs and have no baring on the Motorcraft or NGK plugs mentioned.



Dave
It does offer some insight as to why the NGK's crap out at 12k while the Motorcraft's keep going beyond 30k.

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I recently ordered Brisk Silver Racing Spark Plugs from Tune+. (these have replaced their NGKs)

I asked this morning and they recommended replacing every 15k miles.
 

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I recently ordered Brisk Silver Racing Spark Plugs from Tune+. (these have replaced their NGKs)

I asked this morning and they recommended replacing every 15k miles.
Especially if you are boosting quite a bit. I am doing mine every 10k, just to ensure good spark and no blowout or misfires.
 
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It does offer some insight as to why the NGK's crap out at 12k while the Motorcraft's keep going beyond 30k.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
Most folks that are putting in NGK plugs are going with a colder heat range.

For long life you want the hottest plug that doesn't cause detonation. A hot plug ensures the combustion deposits are burnt off the plug. Colder plugs will build up deposits faster and start to miss fire sooner.

Dave
 

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Has anyone tried monitoring the variables on the first post with a standard ODB2 scanner? I want to know what to look for, or if there are specific PIDs to add.

My EB is 2015, If i'm not going to change it in advance like some people are doing. I might as well monitor it every now and then.

Has anyone had a bad experience with the CA revision? Other than the money spent?
 

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'Just went out for a look-see on my 02/18 build-date car:
LPFS.jpg
No, it's not right-hand drive; I flipped the image so you could easily make out the "BA" suffix. Yes, I have the "bad" sensor. I hope that changing it will get rid of the occasional goofy part-throttle hesitation I'm experiencing. Stay "tuned"...
 

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'Just went out for a look-see on my 02/18 build-date car:
View attachment 31467
No, it's not right-hand drive; I flipped the image so you could easily make out the "BA" suffix. Yes, I have the "bad" sensor. I hope that changing it will get rid of the occasional goofy part-throttle hesitation I'm experiencing. Stay "tuned"...
As a note - I've experienced that hesitation, and it turned out my plugs were just worn out. Replaced them and it immediately went away.
 

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As a note - I've experienced that hesitation, and it turned out my plugs were just worn out. Replaced them and it immediately went away.
Wouldn't be surprised. I replaced the OEM's at 6500 miles, and it did help the throttle response. At 11,000 miles, she might be ready for another go-around. 6500 miles per set? Pretty lame, considering how she gets driven. Either way, I'm not waiting for the sensor to go bad before replacing. That's the same as waiting for the wings to fall off of your plane before replacing the bolts.
 

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Wouldn't be surprised. I replaced the OEM's at 6500 miles, and it did help the throttle response. At 11,000 miles, she might be ready for another go-around. 6500 miles per set? Pretty lame, considering how she gets driven. Either way, I'm not waiting for the sensor to go bad before replacing. That's the same as waiting for the wings to fall off of your plane before replacing the bolts.
Yeah, that seems very very low if it was the plugs. I replaced stock with NGKs after ~40k and then replaced them with another set at ~73k because of the hesitation. I suspect 30k per set is about right.
 

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So, I’ve been going through some old posts and this one got me to check the low pressure fuel sensor (LPFS) on my Jan. 2018 build-date EcoStang. Turns out it has the “-BA” version. Question is: Does it matter? Did folks here conclude that it was actually a problem, or were all the swap-outs a waste of time & money?

I just clicked over 50,000 miles, car is bone stock (had a K&N drop-in filter, but there’s a OEM paper one in there now until I can get around to cleaning/recharging), and I’ve had no check engine light. I have noticed a little hesitation on hard acceleration, but figured the injectors needed cleaning (so I added a bottle of engine cleaner to my last tank of gas). The car has never had anything other than 93 octane.

So - should I bother changing out this part or did it turn out to be much ado about nothing?

Chris
 

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You have people on both sides

some say there’s nodifference other than tooling changed to make it. Some people have 100-200k on oem with no issue, some people changed it and then blew.

imo. I’m rocking the original til I get a code or blows. As it’s perfectly fine now
 

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I had an event happen this time last year that put my engine into limp mode. Happened halfway through a 35 mile trip. Scan came up with a fuel delivery error among others. Dealer service replaced the sensor and sent me on my way. Thing is...based on what I was reading I replaced my original sensor with the "new" one before this happened. So...the "newer-better-er" failed? Could be they were throwing parts at the problem or this isn't a problem that it's talked about. Don't know. It's not expensive or difficult to do in any case.
 

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You have people on both sides

some say there’s nodifference other than tooling changed to make it. Some people have 100-200k on oem with no issue, some people changed it and then blew.

imo. I’m rocking the original til I get a code or blows. As it’s perfectly fine now
I'm in that camp of not changing it until I need to. I think it's kinda funny (facebook especially) how something like this comes up, everyone runs with it, and soon it becomes gospel ha. I've never checked mine to see what kind it was and don't plan to unless I have fueling issues.
 
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