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You're definitely going to like that UPR dual catch can .I will tell you though make sure often you check the quick disconnect Sometimes they come loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Update on the Baffle Plate unit. After walking away for a few hours, I realized while I broke the outer clip, I could repair it with epoxy but only after I gut the valve. Sure the unit won't ever be able to be disassembled again but if it needs to, I'll just replace that part then! The UPR catch can is on the way. I hate to replace my Mishi can (and spend $270 doing so) but I like the concept of the third pressure line. To not be smoking at a stop light is worth every penny, provided it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
10 days later the UPR dual catch can is on my doorstep and installed an hour later. MUCH easier to remove the intake to reach PCV than from underneath. A quick install note; the included coupler with the quick connect fitting for mating hot side charge pipe to the turbo... that thing sucks to get on. It took some lube and a heat gun.

Post install - Car thrashed a bit, no codes or power loss so at least I’ve done no harm. I’ll be watching for idle smoke and blow by like a hawk. Updates to follow.
 

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Gee, it took me all of 30 seconds to reach up from under the car and disconnect the hose from the PCV and connect the UPR one.

The longest part of the install for me was removing and replacing the engine cover.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #26
You're a better man than me Dave. My stubby mits don't fit so well. I'm with you on the engine cover's four little screws that you need to remove the strut tower brace to reach which needs the battery cable removed so you can take the brace off so you can take the cover off. (Just fun to say it that way.)

Ended up gutting the baffle PCV and keeping the old plate Twign.
 

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I have the Ford Performance strut brace. You can remove the engine cover with the brace on.

If you are under the car there is plenty of room to reach the PCV hose. The only finicky thing is squeezing the quick release tabs.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Doing a fitting check and Dave, you are correct. You know how many times I've needlessly removed the + batt terminal and strut tower brace? A lot, I'll say that. Thanks.

As far as smoke: it appears to be gone. I'm measuring blow by again for 90 days so I'll have a fuller idea as we go. No cold but...
 

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I started moaning the end of December that the amount of blow by was through the roof. Been filling a jug and have drained about 24 ounces since December 28, 2017. I had it in my head then, head gasket but the past months have been cold as dirt so I sort of figured/hoped that was it.

Yesterday and today, I've noticed smoke from my tail pipe. I've seen wisps in the rear view but only the past two days have been clearly searching for it. I've got smoke smoke after the car is warm. Made a (an easy) 100 mile run to my parents house, left the car running and had an entry level Sandford and Son going on. Even had my mother in her late 70s aka June Cleaver, even comment that doesn't look right.

I'm a bolt on guy and good general mechanic but this is out of my experience. I'm assuming I need to have the compression checked to confirm my suspicions. If my suspicions are confirmed; a lot of you guys are techs in the real world. Any cost guesses on a head gasket replacement. Car runs strong so I'm thinking no damage other than some leakage. Looking for some comfort in realistic guess or some really rose colored glasses rhetoric.
 

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I just found out I have a head gasket leaking in number 3! I got several quotes to replace the head gasket from Ford dealerships. I’m out of warranty and at 94000 miles. So it roughly 3000.00 but Ford recommended replacing the motor. 6500.00 for the engine plus labor.
 

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I just found out I have a head gasket leaking in number 3! I got several quotes to replace the head gasket from Ford dealerships. I’m out of warranty and at 94000 miles. So it roughly 3000.00 but Ford recommended replacing the motor. 6500.00 for the engine plus labor.
Book labor is 10 hours, so cost should be approx $1000 (depending on rate) plus cost of the head gasket
 

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Doing a fitting check and Dave, you are correct. You know how many times I've needlessly removed the + batt terminal and strut tower brace? A lot, I'll say that. Thanks.

As far as smoke: it appears to be gone. I'm measuring blow by again for 90 days so I'll have a fuller idea as we go. No cold but...
If your still having issues, bring it by the shop we’ll figure out what’s going on, I’m in Newport News.
 

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Thanks to everyone, it’s definitely has a head gasket issue. Three Ford dealerships said the same thing Ford does not recommend replacing the head gasket but instead replacing the engine. I found a 2016 motor with 20000 miles and a 24000 mile warranty for 2500.00 not counting labor for swap. Looking in to an exit strategy. So long Eco Boost motors.
 

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Thanks to everyone, it’s definitely has a head gasket issue. Three Ford dealerships said the same thing Ford does not recommend replacing the head gasket but instead replacing the engine. I found a 2016 motor with 20000 miles and a 24000 mile warranty for 2500.00 not counting labor for swap. Looking in to an exit strategy. So long Eco Boost motors.
Does Ford not believe in decking the head and a new gasket anymore? Sounds like dealers are giving you the run around, telling you that you need to replace the whole motor.
 

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Does Ford not believe in decking the head and a new gasket anymore? Sounds like dealers are giving you the run around, telling you that you need to replace the whole motor.
Nope, replacing the motor only takes 5-6 hrs, pretty much zero liability, car is in and out. Doing the head gasket, decking the head requires the car to take up space for several days depending on machine shop lead time and the dealer is on the hook for warranty and issues......plus it takes skill for a head job, techs just aren’t up for it anymore, swapping the motor is way easier.
 
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