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Discussion Starter #1
It's become pretty apparent that I need to install an engine oil cooler for HPDE use. After 10-15 min of track time, the oil temp gauge is at the very top of the normal range, by 20 minutes, it dips into the yellow range. At this point, I've noticed the boost getting cut back under WOT, from 21 psi to about 10 psi. The first time it happened, I assumed it was just heat soak on the intercooler (although I have an aftermarket IC that is three times the size of stock!). When it happened yesterday at the track, I was able to do some testing. If I back off for a lap or two, I could bring the oil temp back into the "green" range. Once the oil temp was in this range, I could get max boost as long as I wanted. But once the oil temp crossed into yellow, it would start cutting power (mainly above 5500 at WOT). It certainly appears as though this is a deliberate safety function of the ECU, similar to a "limp mode". Has anyone else experienced this? Or does anyone have confirmed knowledge that the ECU will pull boost based on excessive engine oil temp?
 

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If your looking for a solid oil cooler, check out mishimoto. They have one with and without a thermostatic sandwich plate. I think I payed under $500 for it. I haven't tracked my car so I can't say if I had any issues pre oil cooler. This keeps my oil temp in the middle of the green even on spirited drives.
 

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Is the Mishimoto kit the ONLY game in town for "plug and play" oil coolers for the Eco??

Also...this might be a dumb question...but with BOTH a racing style IC, AND an oil cooler, are you risking the radiator not getting the 'cooling air' it needs (assuming you install the sandwich plate)? Thoughts?
 

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The sandwich plate is useful if you drive in varying climates ( extreme cold, extreme hot). It does block the radiator a little however my coolant doesn't seem to go much beyond 220 f on extreme hot days.
 

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ford put a lot of effort into keeping these engines alive during abuse. mine went into limp mode when the water temp got to 245-250 during a race on a muddy track. the PCM will pull timing, limit boost and probably some other stuff in an attempt to cool things off when abused. i also learned when the water temp gets to 240, i can run around half throttle and it will start to cool things down. i switched to a triple pass radiator and i think the overheating is cured.

also, i use a pedal commander to help with throttle delay. when i turn it up all the way it will overboost and throw a code. when that happens it's NA until you clear the code. a pedal commander opens the throttle blade quicker and also closes it quicker resulting in a boost spike when i let off the accelerator pedal quickly entering the corner.
 

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^^ Racer17 do you have a powerpack? If so Id be surprised the radiator has issues, as thats also used in the FP350 (Ford Performance race cars) without a problem according to them.

There's an oil cooler sold here in Aus that sits facing the belly pan, it apparently gets enough air to keep the oil cooler down and doesn't sit infront of the radiator at all.
 

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hellman109, see my intro thread, dirt track ecoboost. my race car is an ecoboost powered fox body mustang. it gets abused and the engines limitations are exposed. the radiator in it is much bigger than an OEM radiator and it has a lincoln mark viii fan....well known to be one of the biggest air movers. it also has an air to oil cooler with an air scoop directing air over it from the cowl. running it to full boost up to 50 times in under 7 minutes on a sticky race track will expose a lot. BTW, i think i have the overheating problem solved. i switched to a triple pass radiator. now it stays around 225.

my 2019 daily driver is babied and never gets run hard.
 

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Just have to say I found similar today, soft codes (wasn't looking at gauges!) for high oil temp and on one session high coolant temps, but no CEL and I didnt seem to have power pulled, I was doing cooldown laps every 3-4 laps just for brakes though.

Haven't decided on what I want to do for it, I presume if I drop oil temps the one time I was over coolant temps would also drop due to general temps coming down, but cant say for sure. I have no space in my grille to sit the Mishimoto in there though, as my Whipple intercooler is just massive. I know they have an oil cooler here though that sits flat down towards the bellypan, might be an option that will work
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just remembered I had started this thread last year. I'll provide a little update. I did install the Mishimoto oil cooler. Nice package. Took a little modification to fit with my oversize intercooler, but it all went in fine. Did my first HPDE with the oil cooler on Saturday (Road America). No change in oil temp...at least as displayed in the car. After searching a few Mustang forums, I've learned that the oil temp displayed is just an "inferred" oil temp, not an actual temp. The calculation used by the ECU to come up with oil temp is based on a stock oil system. It has no way of accounting for the cooler. So I can assume that my actual oil temps were lower, which is good. My ECU isn't aware of this, so the inferred oil temp still zips right up to the top of the green and just into the yellow range, which is bad. Because the ECU still wants to reduce power based on the high inferred oil temp. So I still cant take advantage of the engine's full potential for more than 15 minutes, before I need to back off and let the inferred temp come down a bit. Frustrating.
 

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i'm in the same boat, SVO. racing always reveals the weakest link. evidently, ford designed these engines to provide a nice increase in power for a short duration of time. ample for a street driven passenger car or even drag racing but definitely not up to the task of extended periods of hard driving. it always loses power when the temps begin to climb.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's my understanding that cylinder head temp (CHT) is one of the variables impacting the inferred oil temp. I have another HPDE scheduled for Monday. I'll watch the CHT and see how high it gets (I never bothered before, since overall engine temp didn't really budge). If it gets in the 230-240 range, I may try an aftermarket "high flow" 160 deg t-stat. That may pull the CHT down some, thus pulling down the inferred oil temp as well. Saga continues!
 

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It's my understanding that cylinder head temp (CHT) is one of the variables impacting the inferred oil temp. I have another HPDE scheduled for Monday. I'll watch the CHT and see how high it gets (I never bothered before, since overall engine temp didn't really budge). If it gets in the 230-240 range, I may try an aftermarket "high flow" 160 deg t-stat. That may pull the CHT down some, thus pulling down the inferred oil temp as well. Saga continues!
That is super interesting. Livernois built an Ecoboost Mustang some years back that ran 10's and one of its main components was a low temperature thermostat. Like you stated, I know drag racing is much different than autocross, but I gotta imagine that they might have been on to something by having the cooling system kick in earlier and maybe getting more 'duration' out of your engine's performance because of it.
 

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i plugged the hot water bypass and removed the thermostat as recommended by Brian Axup at Esslinger.......also using a triple pass racing radiator. still only buys a few more laps until it gets hot enough to start losing power. a lower rated thermostat will not make a difference. the OEM cooling system is inadequate for any serious race use. i'm not sure if there's a radiator big enough to keep one cool for race use. i believe it's the turbo itself overheating the water and oil. my downpipe is cherry red during race conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i plugged the hot water bypass and removed the thermostat as recommended by Brian Axup at Esslinger.......also using a triple pass racing radiator. still only buys a few more laps until it gets hot enough to start losing power. a lower rated thermostat will not make a difference. the OEM cooling system is inadequate for any serious race use. i'm not sure if there's a radiator big enough to keep one cool for race use. i believe it's the turbo itself overheating the water and oil. my downpipe is cherry red during race conditions.
As far as I can tell, the issue is more about the inferred temp calculation than the actual temps. In all of the HPDE events I have run, I have never seen my overall coolant temp move much past the middle of the gauge. I don't believe I have a cooling issue, but if running the car 20 deg cooler causes a corresponding drop in the inferred oil temp calc, then it may be enough to prevent the ECU from engaging the power saving mode. That's all I'm trying to achieve here. I exchanged some messages with Cobb and they indicated that you could remove the fail safe associated with the inferred oil temp. This is probably the only real fix.
 

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sounds like we have different issues. mine gets spooled up twice a lap, about 15 seconds, for up to 25 laps. full boost 50 times in under 7 minutes plus partial boost in the turns. everything is hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'll be curious to what the CHTs are at the track on Monday. I guess "shame on on me" for not paying attention to these sooner, but I always assumed they would be reasonably close to the overall coolant temp. Maybe not?
 

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sounds like we have different issues. mine gets spooled up twice a lap, about 15 seconds, for up to 25 laps. full boost 50 times in under 7 minutes plus partial boost in the turns. everything is hot.
😯😯😯😯😯
 

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i believe it's the turbo itself overheating the water and oil. my downpipe is cherry red during race conditions.
Have you thought about wrapping it all the way down?
 

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Have you thought about wrapping it all the way down?
i've seen way too many engine fires because of heat wrap and i think it would just hold more heat in the turbo making it worse. the water and oil will still be circulating through the turbo. i fabricated a metal heat shield and i'm trying a power steering cooler in the water line from the turbo to the block hoping to cool the water off a little before it reenters the block. still R&D at this point.

i know the overheating is boost related. i got an overboost code on lap 3 once. killed boost for the remaining 17 laps. never got over 180 and the car was actually faster through the corners. if i could figure out how to kill boost with a micro switch through the turns and release it on the straights i'd be set. that would fix my cooling issues too. when we get a really slick track that requires a lot of pedaling the throttle, my cooling issue disappears. when we have a tacky or sticky fast track where you can hold it wide open most of the lap, that's when it overheats.

more cooling capacity is what i really need but i don't have anywhere to put it. plus the 2.3GTDI engine package is already way heavier than my old cast iron SOHC. my car is 300lbs. heavier than the rest of the field. adding more cooling capacity means adding more weight.
 
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