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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced my plugs on my 2015 Eco about 1 year ago, or 18K miles ago. This was per recommendation of many a forum post. They didn't give me any issues. Two weeks ago I updated to a stage 1 tune and noticed I had the codes P0300 and P0316 reading on the Cobb AP, which can be the plugs. So while I was installing a MAPerformance intercooler and intake my buddy and I decided to check the gaps on the plugs, and lower them slightly, to .26. We got noticeable misfires on the first test run. Tried swapping some of the plugs around, then got a decisive code on cylinder 1 misfiring. We pulled the plugs and immediately noticed that part of the ceramic was missing. PANIC. We Looked into the head and shined a flashlight and couldn't find anything so "surely it must've fallen outside of the engine".
Well sure enough, I fire it up and at idle after about 15 seconds I hear a clunk, waiting a few more seconds before hearing another clink sound and I ran and turned off the engine. There was ceramic from the plug in the cylinder head. The next several hours were followed by butt puckering and attempting clean out the cylinder with high pressure suction and blowing using a 3 HP shop vac. After said suction and blowing I fired the car up and all was good. But I certainly wanted to ditch the Ford plugs.
Sure enough cylinder 2 plug came out looking just like cylinder 1, missing some ceramic. Repeat butt puckering and suction and high pressure blowing. Replaced all the plugs with NGK 6510's and the engine is purring better than ever.
I am still getting the same codes after driving hard for 50 miles, see: Codes P0300 & P0316 w/ Cobb Tune

I will certainly not use Ford plugs again, let alone try to re-gap plugs. I've never seen ceramic on a plug shatter so easily and I've replaced many a plugs on cars before. Anyone else experienced this? I still want to get a borescope sometime soon on my cylinder and make sure there was no damage. Pls say a prayer for cylinder 1.
 

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I just don’t regap plugs. If I’m going through effort to pull to look or replace, I replace. I’ve had a friend have similar issue before

I’d like to assume you’re fine though
 

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This is the first issue I've ever heard on the Motorcraft plugs. I've put in both the Motorcraft SP537 and NGK6510 and checked the gap on each, and may have even had to adjust a bit for a .28.

No problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just don’t regap plugs. If I’m going through effort to pull to look or replace, I replace. I’ve had a friend have similar issue before

I’d like to assume you’re fine though
I would also like to assume this. Sometime soon I'll get a look inside to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is the first issue I've ever heard on the Motorcraft plugs. I've put in both the Motorcraft SP537 and NGK6510 and checked the gap on each, and may have even had to adjust a bit for a .28.

No problems.
Yep these were the exact plugs I used, ordered from Rock Auto.
 

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I will certainly not use Ford plugs again, let alone try to re-gap plugs. I've never seen ceramic on a plug shatter so easily and I've replaced many a plugs on cars before.
I wouldn't blame the plug for the ceramic being shattered. I would say you cracked the insulator regapping them. All iridium plugs are delicate and can't be gapped safely without a gapping tool than does not put any side load on the plug.

Also, FWIW, the Motorcraft Iridium plugs that came in your ecoboost are made by NGK and are rebranded Motocraft.


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wouldn't blame the plug for the ceramic being shattered. I would say you cracked the insulator regapping them. All iridium plugs are delicate and can't be gapped safely without a gapping tool than does not put any side load on the plug.

Also, FWIW, the Motorcraft Iridium plugs that came in your ecoboost are made by NGK and are rebranded Motocraft.


Dave
Interesting. The gapping tool we used was the standard tool with the wires. It’s possible the culprit may have been the bit we used to take them out the first time, some of the rubber was missing inside and I purchased a new one when I got the new plugs.
 

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Interesting. The gapping tool we used was the standard tool with the wires. It’s possible the culprit may have been the bit we used to take them out the first time, some of the rubber was missing inside and I purchased a new one when I got the new plugs.
That's your problem when you drag the wire between the tip and the side electrode you are applying a side load to the center electrode.

You need to be using a tool like this with flat feeler gauges and even then you have to be careful not to stress the fine wire electrode.


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's your problem when you drag the wire between the tip and the side electrode you are applying a side load to the center electrode.

You need to be using a tool like this with flat feeler gauges and even then you have to be careful not to stress the fine wire electrode.


Dave
Good to know. Should I be concerned about my engine or do an early oil change or anything? I just did a full synthetic oil change 100 miles ago...
 

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If the engine is running fine and not making noise i would say the bits of ceramic have likely passed through the engine.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If the engine is running fine and not making noise i would say the bits of ceramic have likely passed through the engine.

Dave
Without a doubt. Hopefully no damage was done. I’m still trying to resolve my idle issues and P0300 random missfire code, which was the reason I re-gapped and then replaced the plugs. Going to try some injector cleaner next fuel up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I use sea foam in everything it’s probably what I will use on stang too
If you use the Seafoam make sure it’s the kind that’s for GDI engines and goes in the gas tank. You do not want to put it in the intake. I ended up using Chevron Techron for up to 20 gallon tank, added in the tank when I filled up.
 

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Since these engines are GDI, there is NOTHING that you're going to put into the gas tank that is going to clean the top of your valves, which is what a lot of people use sea foam for. If you're using it to try and clean out the "combustion chambers", then please reference this video. The fuel injectors aren't that in need of a cleaning with their high pressure pulses.
 

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So did they hurt their car by putting seafoam in? End of video he says the cars ok I think. What is that crap that came out?

doesdirty intakes really matter? People have 200k on car with no issues as far as I think I read
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My car is at 75K miles and I was told by a Ford mechanic he’s seen issues with these injectors typically around 60K miles. My idle is occasionally rough few a few seconds and I was getting a misfires at start code.

There is another type of seafoam that is meant to be sprayed in the intake to clean the intake manifold. It would theoretically clean the valves on our cars but it cannot be used because the pieces of carbon released by this could potentially break the turbo.
 

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I've been waiting to see if anyone would post a picture of their Eco valves. Mine is almost at 50K and Id really like to se what kind of shape they are in. Might just pick up a cheap ebay borescope and try it myself at some point. If they are bad, I'd probably opt for this, over seafoam. I've found a couple of people who do this locally.

 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've been waiting to see if anyone would post a picture of their Eco valves. Mine is almost at 50K and Id really like to se what kind of shape they are in. Might just pick up a cheap ebay borescope and try it myself at some point. If they are bad, I'd probably opt for this, over seafoam. I've found a couple of people who do this locally.

Bimmers are pretty notorious for this. I'd be very curious also, but I've yet to see someone that has done this on our car.How does walnut blasting prevent the large pieces of carbon from entering the turbo? I would assume it would have to be vacuumed out of the cylinder or something.
 
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