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Just got my FP Turbo in last Friday. Looks like it comes with a Wastegate pre-installed. Does anyone know what size spring the Wastegate is? Not sure if it is a stock size spring or something bigger. I also got my Turbo smart 12 psi Wastegate in the same day. Not sure if I should keep the FP turbo Wastegate or put the Turbosmart one on.
Did ya get it installed yet? I'm dying to hear about how it performs.
 

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Did ya get it installed yet? I'm dying to hear about how it performs.
Not yet. I'm working on getting a supercharger installed on my Honda and was quoted about $2,400 to install and tune. It's probably gonna be even more for the cams and turbo. I'll probably have it done sometime spring next year.
 

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Probably wont help you guys much but Im throwing these cams on tonight. I say wont help much because I already have an aftermarket turbo and lots of parts. I talked to my tuner and he said a retune isn't necessary because the cam is so mild. Most likely wont add much power, 20 at most he said but the longer duration should move more air and help the bigger turbo spool. I will let everyone know what the difference feels like on the butt dyno but Im not going to redyno it since it does not need retuned. Is anyone interested in a walkthrough for timing the cams to the crank as I do this? LMK and I will try to take some pictures as I go tonight.
 

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Probably wont help you guys much but Im throwing these cams on tonight. I say wont help much because I already have an aftermarket turbo and lots of parts. I talked to my tuner and he said a retune isn't necessary because the cam is so mild. Most likely wont add much power, 20 at most he said but the longer duration should move more air and help the bigger turbo spool. I will let everyone know what the difference feels like on the butt dyno but Im not going to redyno it since it does not need retuned. Is anyone interested in a walkthrough for timing the cams to the crank as I do this? LMK and I will try to take some pictures as I go tonight.
I’d love a walkthrough. I’ve been contemplating wether or not cams are a job I could tackle myself.
 

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I'm in for the walkthrough as well.
 

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I’d love a walkthrough. I’ve been contemplating wether or not cams are a job I could tackle myself.
I'll be getting mine done at my local tuner shop in the springtime. I'll have PD-TUNING do a tune for the cams, turbo, Wastegate and balance shaft delete. Hopefully if I go back to Mustang week this year, I'll run my car on the portable Dyno and get some numbers.
 

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Okay here is my attempt at a walk through on the cam swap/ timing the cams to the crank on a 2.3 Turbo. I'm not covering things like taking the turbo intake off and hooking every vacuum line and electrical connector back up in detail.

1.Disconnect battery and strip engine accessories in the way. You must remove:
a.the turbo air intake and the AC pump and its bracket to the block (AC blocks the factory timing pin, photo later)
b.the valve cover including but not limited too all associated wiring, vacuum tubes, coil packs, spark plugs, and the like
c.the timing cover after removing the main timing pulley/balancer. This is tight AF so get a good pulley holder like this one PULLEY HOLDER and a strong friend. After you get the bolt out it slips right off as it is held in place by a diamond washer and not a pressed fit of any kind.
d.the timing chain and tensioner as well as the guides for the same. DO NOT remove the oil pump, secondary chain feeding it or the lower crank timing gear on the crank shaft, this is unnecessary. IF you remove the main pulley and the diamond washer comes with it, keep track of it. I always leave mine on the crank!
e.your engine should look something like this


That was rather high level but I figure if you cant disassemble to this point you probably already scanned by this post!

2.remove old cams and take the phazer bolts out (phazers are the large front end pieces with the timing gear son them for the chain. Note, cam bearing caps are aluminum with no additional bearing surface and are all marked intake and exhaust and the number order they go in from FORD. Kinda nice but I still put mine in cardboard in order, lol

3.remove timing plug from passenger side lower front of engine block, its a 10mm just in front of the turbo oil return and quite short. This allows access to the timing stop for #1 TDC, I already have the small black knurled tool installed in this picture, its just below the WNA stamped in the block.

4.insert the timing stop pin and rotate the crank CLOCKWISE (always only clockwise, lol) until it hits the timing pin and #1 is at DTC. This can be verified by looking into the #1 plug hole and seeing the piston all the way up. I used the following timing kit from Amazon Timing kit 3 times now and it works great and isn't pricey.

5.Now that the crank is at TDC for #1 you can put the new cams in. Be aware that you need to put them in the proper orientation because if you dont, pistons and valves will hit even though it isnt running yet. It's not hard, this is where the slot in the back of the cams comes in handy with the timing tool. The slot is off center so you dont get it 180 out. See the pic below of the timing tool inserted across the back of the intake and exhaust cams. Still no timing chain on at this point. NOTE, the timing tool should slide in EASILY to the cams, absolutely no resistance at any time during this process or the timing is off!!!


6. Now put the cam phazers back on and leave the bolts loose, reinstall timing chain, guides for the same, tensioner, and release tensioner. Now its time to hold the cams with a wrench (there is a special spot on them from FORD for this) and set the TTY bolts, I think its like 30 ft lbs and then 30 degrees, don't quote me on that.

7. with the cams timed and the chain reinstalled, reassemble the timing cover. Make sure you use enough ultra black where the head meets the block our you will get a weeping oil leak on the edges.

8. Now the fun part!! with the cams still locked out, #1 TDC timing pin in locking the crank, and the timing cover on, slip the main pulley on with the diamond washer first if you took it off. Inset the bolt int he main pulley that holds its rotation. I didnt get a pic of this but theres a threaded hole on the timing cover directly below the crank and only one hole that lines up with it in the pulley. This ensures the main timing pulley/dampener is in the correct orientation. Using the pulley holder and a cheater pipe about 4 ft long, hold back on the pulley while a friend achieves 80 ft lbs PLUS 180 degrees on the main pulley TTY bolt.

9.IF all went well your cams and crank are in time now. Remove the timing pin form the block and the timing tool from the back of the cams, again it should slide out easily and nothing should move. Once all timing tools are removed, roll the engine over by hand using the ratchet on the main crank pulley bolt and ensure there is no interference. You can try a comp test by hand just to see a little bit now if you want but its not necessary.

10.reinstall everything!!! Bahahaha, HP fuel pump, vacuum pump, valve cover, AC, water pump pulley, on and on and on until the engine is completely reassembled. Leave the plugs and coil packs out and do a compression test with the starter. If all is good, install plugs and fire up!! NOTE, if it runs rough and sounds like a miss at first it is probably started for fuel (we took the HP fuel pump off) shut it off and start it again a few times and it will bleed the remaining air and smooth out.

I'm sure I missed something but that's my overview... If your in the Tampa area and want help tackling this LMK! here are some additional pics and I still have the factory engine install manual if anyone wants it emailed. Side note, I never broke the cooling system when doing this, its unnecessary in my opinion.





Cheers and I hope it helps someone! ?
 

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cam bearing caps are aluminum with no additional bearing surface and are all marked intake and exhaust and the number order they go in from FORD. Kinda nice but I still put mine in cardboard in order, lol
...old habits die hard. ;)

reinstall everything!!! Bahahaha
LOL. I think you got all the critical details and the links to the tools are awesome too. Maybe you could upgrade the resolution quality and size of the pics? But other than that, this thread should probably be bookmarked as a how-to guide by @zhent and/or @Squid

Great stuff.
 

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...old habits die hard. ;)


LOL. I think you got all the critical details and the links to the tools are awesome too. Maybe you could upgrade the resolution quality and size of the pics? But other than that, this thread should probably be bookmarked as a how-to guide by @zhent and/or @Squid

Great stuff.
Sorry about the photos, it linked the thumbnails for some reason. Always preview, lol Should be fixed so you guys can all see what was going on a little better. Thanks Gatornek for bringing this to my attention!
 

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Sorry about the photos, it linked the thumbnails for some reason. Always preview, lol Should be fixed so you guys can all see what was going on a little better. Thanks Gatornek for bringing this to my attention!
How does the car feel with the cams? Notice any difference in power delivery? I'll be adding the FP turbo and cams in about 2-3 months and want to know what to expect power wise.
 

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How does the car feel with the cams? Notice any difference in power delivery? I'll be adding the FP turbo and cams in about 2-3 months and want to know what to expect power wise.
Joshua,

After driving the car for a week or so and actually getting it settled in I do notice a big difference! Let me explain. My car has a tune for the following mods that affect the engine/throttle response

-Manley H beam rods and Manley pistons
-King racing bearings
-Vargas Stage 2+ turbo with 73mm exducer (Not sure about the size of the FP turbo)
-Turbosmart Wastegate with 12PSI spring
-3" down pipe catless
-CAI, and all charge tubing

After the tune for the larger turbo with the stock cam, the power was MUCH better but quite a on off button. I would floor it off the line and get some wheel spin initially and then feel like I was waiting for the spool up and when she hit she was gone! With the cam upgrade I notice it gets out much better in the low end and spools faster. This makes the car much better mannered for daily driving. I also noticed that most all of my remaining of my bark (turbo flutter) was eliminated, used to flutter when on the gas 1/4 throttle or so and I backed off just a touch. I did not re-tune the car for the cam but in my experience cams are tailored to a power range. That is to say that I gained low and mid and either remained the same or lost on high end power. The car doesn't feel any quicker but the push back in the seat starts much sooner. (honestly though if it went from 390 RWHP to 400 or even 410 I wouldn't know it!) The cam profile puts most of the change I can see on extended exhaust duration and is minimal lift on both intake and exhaust. I would like to see the lobe separation between intake and exhaust but didn't see it anywhere. These days though the turbos are so much better and spool easier, I'm not that worried about exhaust pressures being more than intake pressures. The cam did increase bottom end pressure a bit I think, it blew a timing cover gasket after two days then after reseal did the same to my valve cover. I put a new valve cover on and installed this breather and all was well.
Hope this helps you man!! Your gonna love the upgrade when you do it.

PS - My next step is throwing down the 2K for fueling and switching to E85!!!
 

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I'll be getting mine done at my local tuner shop in the springtime. I'll have PD-TUNING do a tune for the cams, turbo, Wastegate and balance shaft delete. Hopefully if I go back to Mustang week this year, I'll run my car on the portable Dyno and get some numbers.
Hey Joshua; just checking in to see if you ever got this done. Would love to see what the performance looks like with these mods!

...cf
 

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Hey Joshua; just checking in to see if you ever got this done. Would love to see what the performance looks like with these mods!

...cf
I ended up getting a deal on a turbonetics kit later and will be putting that on instead. I'll let the housemate put the HPP turbo on his EcoBoost. As soon as my tune is dialed in with Ryan I can start a new one and have the turbo installed.
 

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Great..thanks Ryan! Please keep us posted. Would really enjoy seeing the results of the Turbonetics, but also on your housemates EB. Good luck!
 
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