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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone found decent tools for snapping the quick disconnects open or closed? There's got to be something better than a screwdriver and Channelocks.
 

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Has anyone found decent tools for snapping the quick disconnects open or closed? There's got to be something better than a screwdriver and Channelocks.
You are right. It's a pain in the *** without tools. Do a search on Amazon for "quick disconnect hose tools" and buy the most complete set you can afford. Saves a lot of knuckle skin.
 

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I’ve got this metal trim removal tool and am wondering if that would work. It’s a stepped V shape so you might be able to get at both sides at the same time. It may be too wide.
36082
E8508809-1EC8-429E-AE2B-672FA04A5F4F.jpeg The question would be space, and if you have enough to get on the clip in question in line with the clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's not so much to take the clip out but when reconnecting I need a tool to snap the clip back in. I did an Amazon and Google search and both kept coming up with the wrong tool. The panel tool would work if you ground down the forks to fit in the small holes on the bottom of the quick connect to push the clip up. When I installed my catch can I ended up making a tool out of a nail I bent a 90' angle on the end and filed the point off. For snapping the clip in on the new hose I ended up using Channelocks with electrical tape on the teeth so I wouldn't chew up the clip. There has to be a decent tool that someone has found that works.
 

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You guys do realize these hose connectors are released by squeezing the clip on both sides, no tool necessary.

Dave
 

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I’ve never really looked at them yet...the catch can is still in a box downstairs. Every install video I’ve watched seems to end up with broken clips, no good if for some reason you want to put the hose back on, since it seems that you can’t get the clips alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You guys do realize these hose connectors are released by squeezing the clip on both sides, no tool necessary.

Dave
You must be thinking of another type of hose fitting. A good exapmle is the PVC hose that goes from the throttle body to the block (where the catch can hoses get installed).
 

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You must be thinking of another type of hose fitting. A good exapmle is the PVC hose that goes from the throttle body to the block (where the catch can hoses get installed).
Yep, those are released by squeezing the clip on each side. I have installed a catch can on both my 15 & 17 Ecoboost Mustangs and in both cases i just squeezed the retaining clip with my fingers to release.

Dave
 

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I’ve never really looked at them yet...the catch can is still in a box downstairs. Every install video I’ve watched seems to end up with broken clips, no good if for some reason you want to put the hose back on, since it seems that you can’t get the clips alone.
If you can't get your hand in a position where you can unlock with your fingers you can push one side up enough to get a small shim in between the top of the lifted side of the clip and the hose (I used an eyeglass type mini flat head screw driver) so that side doesn't re-lock when you take pressure off, and then move to the other side of the clip.

You're only going to break the clips if you completely pry out one side without disengaging the other.
 

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You shouldn't be prying on the clips at all. The flat surface of the clip on each side is intended to be squeezed, this causes the ends that retain the connector to move out releasing the connector.

Dave
 

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You shouldn't be prying on the clips at all. The flat surface of the clip on each side is intended to be squeezed, this causes the ends that retain the connector to move out releasing the connector.

Dave
I agree. From what I have seen though people tend to work one side loose, and then pry out the clip from the top without working on the other side because A they can't easily get to both sides at once and B they are not worried about retaining the factory hose clips.
 

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Removed my intake manifold yesterday to install a Radium plate. Unfortunately I received the wrong, 10AN hose barb PCV valve. Very pissed off since I ordered the kit for an OEM type install! Anyways, the connectors from the plate to the manifold are a push-type, which helps a lot being in a tight space. Most of the others are the type where you can easily push the 2 side prongs. Didn't have any trouble with either type and broke nothing. I'll be a pro when I get the correct "Factory Style Connection" PCV valve for the plate!
 

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You shouldn't be prying on the clips at all. The flat surface of the clip on each side is intended to be squeezed, this causes the ends that retain the connector to move out releasing the connector.

Dave
This topic came up in another forum so i went and took some pictures.

The first one is of the clip in the lock position. The second is in the unlocked position by squeezing the clip. When you squeeze the top of the clip it pushes the ends which have a ramp out allowing the fitting to be released.


Dave
 

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This topic came up in another forum so i went and took some pictures.

The first one is of the clip in the lock position. The second is in the unlocked position by squeezing the clip. When you squeeze the top of the clip it pushes the ends which have a ramp out allowing the fitting to be released.


Dave
Oh wow. If it is that simple it is disappointing to see most if not all install videos overlooking this. Especially the ones from after market part suppliers.
 

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Interesting, when i got my 15 in January 15 i was checking out You Tube videos on installing a catch can and they all said either squeeze the clip or push on the tab with a screw drive to release. None suggested that you needed to pry on the clip or remove it to get the hose off.

Dave
 

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Interesting, when i got my 15 in January 15 i was checking out You Tube videos on installing a catch can and they all said either squeeze the clip or push on the tab with a screw drive to release. None suggested that you needed to pry on the clip or remove it to get the hose off.

Dave
Bit if a miscommunication.; I've never seen it suggested to just immediately pry up the top tab. What I have seen is pushing one tab with a screw driver, then the other tab, and finally lifting up the top with a screwdriver with the caveat that the clip may break at this point. As far as I can tell the breakage occurs because in between steps one of the sides falls back into into its locking position. The shim I suggested prevents this from happening.

I've never seen it suggested to squeeze in a video, but I only looked at about four different ones.
 
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