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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey fellas. Looks like that Passenger Power Window issue has returned and is now PERMANENT :-(

So to rehash, I opened up this thread last year that I had noticed my passenger power window being stuck after either opening it, or trying to open it for the first time.
Passenger Side Power Window Issue
The thing is, that usually RIGHT AFTER the next ignition drive cycle (meaning, I just had to turn the car off and let it wait for a bit), the power window issue would fix itself. That paired with the fact that it was only happening every once in a blue moon, kinda led me to blow it off.

Well it happened this morning, with the window open, and now the window DOES NOT want to go back up, and I might be at that point where I'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer unless I can get some DIY insight.

So per the above thread, I finally chased down fuse 23 in the BCM fuse box and this is what I found:

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fuse 23 seems to be piggybacked with another wire. My ASSUMPTION is that this is the fuse-wire that was run for my aftermarket amp. I never asked the guy who installed it (about 3 years ago) which fuse he tapped into.

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So, I'm like...'okay, this looks promising'. I tried simply popping out the whole piggy back fuse and popping it back in and seeing if that fixed the issue. No.

So then I tried simply removing the 10amp fuse from the piggyback and placing it into fuse slot 23, like it calls for. Still doesn't work.

Well, shoot....maybe the fuse is popped from running my amp hard. So I take the 10amp fuse and hold it up to the sunlight, but it looks like a solid connection through the plastic. But probably still worth the couple bucks to simply replace it from the local autoparts store, so I can legitimately rule it out as a culprit.

Anyway, I'm all ears for any ideas or any info on what I'm looking at. If anyone here wants to do me the solid of simply confirming tha ttheir fuse 23 DOES NOT looks like this, that would also be most helpful!! Putting in a special bat signal for @slojas since he's one of the best AV guys I've talked to on these forums.

Bottom line is I'll be lucky if my car doesn't get rained on or broken into tonight. Yikes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also, I don't hear ANYTHING when I hit the passenger window switch. Just complete dead air. However, I'm not sure if electricity were actually getting to the motor, that you would here it whir/whine. Just thought I'd throw it out there.

And if anyone knows a procedure to pull the door cover off and manually rotate the window up, I'm also all ears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was like 'wait a second, that's not my amp fuse'.

THIS is my amp fuse:
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But nonetheless, I'm pretty sure that piggybacked fusewire on 23 runs to my amp here:

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I'm THINKING this is not the power for the amp, 'per say', but to my little remote bass knob.

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But I guess it doesn't really matter at this point, because like I said, if I unplug the piggyback wire, and simply plug in the 10amp fuse. I still get no go on the window.
I don't know. Jus trying to throw information against the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I confirmed that the piggyback wire is running back to my amp as when I removed it and merely plugged the 10a fuse back in, I had no sound out my radio.

Interesting enough though, the power window was STILL not working. HOWEVER, when I got back, shut the car off, let it sit, turned it back on, THE POWER WINDOW CAME UP!!
So obviiusly something is bleeding over voltage wise from the amp and causing issue.
There is no other explanation.

It’s obviously not fuse related, as the fuse works. But something electrical on the window-side of the circuit, past the fuse, is possibly getting upset aboutsome bleed over voltage and it takes it a drive cycle to get going again, once it clears whatever the issue is.

strange, right?
 

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Cars used to be so simple electrically. All I can suggest is that since the window is currently working, you run without the amp until the problem either comes back, or, it runs out so long that you think you’ve found the issue, reconnect your amp at a different place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cars used to be so simple electrically. All I can suggest is that since the window is currently working, you run without the amp until the problem either comes back, or, it runs out so long that you think you’ve found the issue, reconnect your amp at a different place.
Yeah, you're probably right. I posted on the 'other' forum too, since this would be something applicable across most s550 models, independent of the engine type. But I'm pretty sure that I am not the only person this happens too, but probably one of the few that noticed it (since not too many people drive with their windows down consistently throughout the year, unless you live in coastal california, maybe.), and so far the only person to raise the issue on the forum.

My only fear is blowing my power window regulator or motor, since that would probably necessitate a trip to the dealer (which I absolutely dread). But I imagine the fuse should pop before that could happen. More than likely, what's going on is that the amp is drawing needed current away from the regulator....and the regulator 'freaks out'.

I'll continue to keep this thread posted if I come across anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another thing I've been looking at doing is replacing the battery. That champion battery you see pic'd above, has been on there since June of 2019. I forgot to ask for a battery test at my last oil change. If this can wait another 2 or 3 months, I'll ask them to check it then. But I'm pretty sure its nearing the end.
 
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