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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I run in a " Foot Brake Only" class
Where I had the most problems...on the start line!
BRAKES: In 1st gear, I'd push through the lights at 1800 RPM, In 2nd gear, I would push through the lights above 2000 RPM
Transmission: When I was able to launch hard, the 10spd transmission wouldn't shift out of low gear and felt like the wheels where spinning, but when reviewing video, I can see that I'm getting OK grip and normal wheel spin...??
 

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Nice finish! I'm afraid that without a higher stall converter your launch RPM will remain the same if you don't want to push through the beams. I found that the UPR vertical links & a set of drag racing springs really helped to get my car off the line. My car is a manual transmission but it has run a best of 7.57 in the 1/8 mile. That equates to about 11.85 in the 1/4. It of course has lots of bolt on's and is not stock.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice finish! I'm afraid that without a higher stall converter your launch RPM will remain the same if you don't want to push through the beams. I found that the UPR vertical links & a set of drag racing springs really helped to get my car off the line. My car is a manual transmission but it has run a best of 7.57 in the 1/8 mile. That equates to about 11.85 in the 1/4. It of course has lots of bolt on's and is not stock.
Wow! Thanks for your reply!! Suspension, brakes and transmission are the top (3) items on my list of improvements during the off season. I'll research "UPR" today. I've looked at several different brands of drag springs, but haven't ordered anything yet...
 

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Unless you are road racing I'd save the money on the brakes. Stock brakes are very adequate for drag racing these cars. Unless you just want shiny red calipers showing through the wheels then....I get that too.

I used the BMR drag race lowering springs for the Mustang GT. They work great on my Ecoboost and dropped the car about 1 inch all the way around.
BMR Springs

I forgot to mention that a set of Drag Radials is pretty mandatory to get off the line without spinning some. I bought a used set of stock rear wheels and had a set of Hoosier Drag Radials mounted on them for the track.

Video's for fun:



 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the tip on the BMR springs! On the brakes, I'll probably just upgrade the pads, maybe to Hawk Performance?
 

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Unless you are road racing I'd save the money on the brakes. Stock brakes are very adequate for drag racing these cars. Unless you just want shiny red calipers showing through the wheels then....I get that too.

I used the BMR drag race lowering springs for the Mustang GT. They work great on my Ecoboost and dropped the car about 1 inch all the way around.
BMR Springs

I forgot to mention that a set of Drag Radials is pretty mandatory to get off the line without spinning some. I bought a used set of stock rear wheels and had a set of Hoosier Drag Radials mounted on them for the track.

Video's for fun:



@JackMan2k1 you should check out Scharfenberger's setup since I know you've been enquiring about this. Drag radials can do wonders. Nice time @MrScharfenberger !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Currently running M/T 26" drag radial tires on the back plus 26" front runners... mostly due to trying to launch in 2nd gear @ 2500 rpm w/ base 3.15 gears!
37883
 

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Currently running M/T 26" drag radial tires on the back plus 26" front runners... mostly due to trying to launch in 2nd gear @ 2500 rpm w/ base 3.15 gears! View attachment 37883
Yep! You're doing it right! Cool pic.

I don't think I gave you a link to the UPR vertical links. Here it is.

With those vertical links, the drag radials & BMR springs I'm able to launch between 5400 & 5700 RPM. I don't just dump the clutch but it does come put pretty quick. It looked like my best 60 ft time was about 1.69 seconds. I consider that pretty darn good for a 4 banger.

My car unfortunately has been down for a year. I put a new long block in it and then got caught up in a fuel problem & haven't come back to it yet. I'll get it going for next year though. It's a fun little machine with low mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yep! You're doing it right! Cool pic.

I don't think I gave you a link to the UPR vertical links. Here it is.

With those vertical links, the drag radials & BMR springs I'm able to launch between 5400 & 5700 RPM. I don't just dump the clutch but it does come put pretty quick. It looked like my best 60 ft time was about 1.69 seconds. I consider that pretty darn good for a 4 banger.

My car unfortunately has been down for a year. I put a new long block in it and then got caught up in a fuel problem & haven't come back to it yet. I'll get it going for next year though. It's a fun little machine with low mileage.
That's darn quick! In my class, we qualify on "reaction time", so I've spent the season working my way to 1/20th of a second R/T! Hoping to get my 60 foot down to 2.0 seconds in 2021!!
 

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Cutting a consistent .05 light is tough. I think it is easier to do on a pro tree but still tough. I've found that GoPro's looking out the front windshield help fine tune the skill. Cut a great light, get it on video and watch that sucker 1000 times to burn the timing into your brain. It helps me a lot.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
38183

Starting with my off season mods... I've already cut open my hood vents and removed the air dampers behind the grilled!
Next step is to relocate a few things to make room for a different intercooler and air intake!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
38186

Removed the factory intake air plumbing and relocated the coolant expansion tank to where the air filter box was mounted...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you look at the second picture, you will see a 4" pipe I have fitted below the bumper. This will be the location of my air intake...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
38272

Building an "old school" exhaust (track only). 3" from the OEM cat to within 6" of rear axle, including muffler (required by NMRA per my class rules)...
 
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