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Following a suggestion and recommendation by @Squid yesterday, who advised me that I should start a build thread, I am starting this one.

@Squid has also given me permission to copy and paste my previous original posts into this thread, where I have added accessories and mods to my car in other areas of these forums.

Build threads also act as an easy to find reference point, for many new members wishing to get ideas of what others have done to their cars.

So it makes sense, to have them all in one place so everyone can follow my progress, instead of all over the place.

We've all at some point experienced the following... You read a write-up on a mod or idea you like, then months later, when you are closer to doing it yourself and want to read it again, you think, "Now where in the forums did I read about it?", and spend time searching for it. :)

(With the posts I have already previously made, and paste into this thread, I will put a note at the top explaining it is a re-post to avoid any confusion).
 
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That Very First Day... Unwrapping The Pony

June 2nd 2018, was a big day for me, after wanting to own a Mustang since I was a boy.
50 years later my dream had finally materialized.

I was able to get a fantastic run-out deal on the 2017 Ecoboost which included 3 years or up to 45,000kms free servicing, $2,000 worth of free Ford options and accessories, and the new 5-year unlimited kilometre warranty Ford Australia starting offering to owners in May 2018. (Previously it was 3 years or 100,000Kms, whichever came first).

I also got an unbelievable trade-in deal on my 2014 FG MKII Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo being one of the best maintained and cared for examples for its age the dealer had seen.
(So much so, that one of the staff members at the dealership ending up buying it for himself).

The deal for me was a no-brainer and fitted my budget after having some financial setbacks over the last couple of years.

As much as I would have liked a GT, it would have been another $15,000 over the price I paid for the Ecoboost.
Also, it was going to be a daily driver, so fuel costs were a consideration.

However, coming from a turbo which I enjoyed driving immensely, I knew the Ecoboost would be a fun car to drive on a daily basis.

Some pics from that today...









 

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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Installed a Digital Speedo

As you all know, the 2015 to 2017 Mustangs don't come with a digital speedo, something I was used to and liked in my previous 2014 Ford Falcon FG Turbo.

I really wished Ford had activited this feature full time as I know you can display it using the "engineering mode" method which is a real pain to set up each time.

Actually, in a way, I'm happy the 2017 does not come with one!

You see, it would be completely useless as the speedo in the Mustangs is way out compared to actual speed, and the digital readout would only display the same inaccuracy of the analogue gauge as they do.

In my Falcon, the digital and analogue speedo was only 2Kms out at 100Kms per hour when measured by accurate government highway radar or my GPS devices, so I could live with that.

However, in my Mustang, the analogue speedo is out by 5Kms at 60 and nearly 7Kms at 100!

Maybe that has been fixed in the 2018 models that come with a digital speedometer, but I doubt it.

I think the inaccuracy comes from the fact that it is an American car which has been better calibrated for imperial "miles per hour", rather than kilometres here in Australia.

Anyway, the answer was to fit an aftermarket and accurate GPS digital speedo rather than one that gets its info from the OBDII port which would only mirror the car computer's speed inaccuracies.

Now I had one which I had bought for the Falcon, but it was a HUD (Heads up display) that had a "reversed" readout so it could be read by reflection on the windscreen on a mirrored sticker.

However, I did not want the above design this time and never liked the look of the large 6-inch x 4-inch mirror decal stuck on the windscreen or the resulting image quality.

So this time, decided to buy one that gave a direct readout without utilizing the HUD reflection design method.

After much research, I settled on the Australian made digital speedometer made by a local company, who have been making these for many many years.

The model is a Hillspeed HUD09, it costs AUD$135 including freight and comes with a 2-year warranty.



The HUD09 comes with everything needed for installation.
It can either be "hardwired" in or simply powered from the 12-volt power socket with the included adaptor.

To facilitate the different designs in car dashes, it also comes with a variety of "wedges" allowing you to get the ideal viewing angle on installation with different dash slopes.



A great feature of the Hillspeed speedo is that the display is housed in a long deep tunnel, to block out all flare and sunlight from hitting the display, making it easy to read in all lighting conditions.

It is also quite compact at only 73mm wide by 50mm high and houses the GPS antenna moulded on the top of the case.



Installation was easy, and I ran the power cable hidden in the A-pillar, then under the dash and under the console tunnel to the multi-power adaptor socket, I have inside the console box.

I decided to use the included Velcro stripes to attach it to the dash rather than the double sided tape.



The speedo has a 1Hz GPS receiver like all consumer GPS navigators and updates your speed once every second.
This is enough for a car speedo, as really you are mostly concerned about your "constant speed" when driving, so you don't get pinged by the police, rather than fast speed changes due to acceleration or braking forces.

The digits on the readout are also large at 1 inch high, so easy to see in the laid back driving position in the Pony.

The speedo has an automatic brightness sensor on the left side to adjust the brightness of the display for day and night time driving.

Also included are programmable speed alerts that can warn you when you exceed the speed limit you set by 3Km/hr.
You can be alerted either by two red LEDs that are mounted on each side of the display, a warning chime, or a combination of both which can be independently set or turned off.

I am very happy with this digital GPS speedo and can highly recommend it to anyone who wants to install one in their car.

Here is a short video by Bruce Hill, the owner of the family company that manufactures them in Australia...

 
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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Love my Paddle Shifter Extensions!... A low cost & 5 minute mod.

The factory steering wheel mounted paddle shifters found on the automatic-equipped S550 Mustangs are fun when you want to drive the car like a manual.

However, one complaint is that they are too small and can be difficult to reach during spirited driving situations, or when your hands are in the "10 and 2" o'clock driving position.
Other cars with similar paddle shifters are usually much bigger and extend upwards more than the ones on the newer Mustangs.

The solution is to install a pair of extensions designed specifically our Ecoboosts.

They are made of high-quality billet aluminium and are available in red, black, blue or silver and are finished in a durable clear coat for a wet glossy finish.
I decided to go with the red ones...




They are easily installed and require no permanent modifications to the stock shifters.

They come with quality 3M double-sided automotive tape and have an inset groove to follow the shape of the backs of the stock shifters perfectly, and fit like a glove.




The extension shifters installed...



They also have the highly visible “+” and “-“ engraved symbols denoting the upshift and downshift modes like the stock shifters...



They provide a drastic improvement in shifting accuracy at higher hand and more natural holding positions on the steering wheel.
They also give a look cool that is typically only found on high-end exotics. :)


 
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Windows Tinted & PPF "Wear & Tear" Kit applied

Dropped off the car my local at Tint-A-Car outlet to get the windows done.
Also as an added free bonus they applied their PPF (Paint Protection Film) "Wear & Tear" kit to the door handle cups, door edges and boot bumper sill. (Valued at $200 if done separately).

The 3M Paint protection Film is "self-healing" and almost "invisible", so did not bother taking photos of it applied as you can't see it. :)

The whole job was done in 4 hours and they did an excellent job.

Car before window tint was applied...



Since the Mustang comes with a slight tint in the factory tempered glass already as you can see in the above photo, I decided on the "Formula One" tint as the VLT is 37%, and combined with the factory tint, would not take it over the legal visible light transmission limit of 34% required in Victoria.

Although it costs a little more (at $395), the Formula One tint offers an SPF of 50+ and 70% heat rejection (one of the highest on the market) plus a lifetime warranty.

I am very pleased with results, it is not too dark, making it easy to see out of the car (especially at night), but great privacy when viewed from the outside.

Excuse the rain on the windows, managed to get these photos before it started to really downpour. :)





The side windows are done with the "metallic" version of Formula One, but the rear window is a "non-metallic" version.
This is so it does not effect the radio reception in the AM band with the antenna at the back.

 
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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Seat Belt Guide Mod


I found a very hard to find Mustang accessory I had been wanting for a while (at least here in Australia).
The Mustang Seat Belt Guide / Support to replace the clumsy magnetic belt strap on the side of the seat that easily comes undone while driving.

So picked a pair up today at a local Mustang parts supplier, designed for the 2015 - 2018 Ponies...



They are made from a hard quality plastic and have the holes in the right position to fit the Mustang headrests.



They Look OEM when fitted and makes grabbing your seat belt a whole lot easier.
They also prevent neck rash/rubbing from the seatbelt, and avoids damage to the magnetic leather strap and wear and tear from the belt rubbing on the leather seat over time.
Anyone who owns a new Mustang will understand what I am talking about here. :)

There is a slot in the side, to allow you to slip the belt through, and easily remove it from the guide loop, should you need to let passengers into the back seat.



This should have come standard with the S550 Mustangs, and I believe they were originally supplied with the older US Mustangs.

I am very happy with this mod and makes grabbing and putting on the seat belt a breeze... Highly recommended accessory!

 
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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Door Handle Grip Inserts - Great extra storage


They are made from quality ABS plastic, designed to fit the contours and shape of the door handle grips perfectly.
For the low price I paid I was not expecting much but was surprised at the overall quality, fit and finish.



They come with a black rubber foam attached all the way around the deep inserts for a perfect fit and stop any possible rattles.



Gives the pony two extra excellent storage spots, especially for your passenger and their phone.



It fits my Vape mod perfectly, placing it in easy reach for that occasional puff when stuck in traffic.
Sometimes, it's the low cost and simplest of mods that are the most satisfying. :)

 
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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Fitted a Permanent Battery Charging Port

I like to keep my battery in tip-top condition and occasionally recondition and trickle charge it using my excellent "12 Volt / 6 Amp 9-Stage Battery Charger and Maintainer".

With modern cars such as the Mustang, there is always some parasitic drain due to power being used by the electronics, and alarm system on permanently when just parked.

One of the problems with the 2015 - 2018 Mustangs is the battery is completely covered by a screw down rubber lid using 3 x Christmas tree plastic type fasteners and makes connecting a battery charger each time a little more time-consuming.

So I fitted a permanent "charging port" fused cable with a safety cap to the battery terminals and routed it out the side of the rubber battery cover.

Now I can connect my charger in no time!







 

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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Fitted A Fire Extinguisher In The Trunk

I believe in vehicle safety and being prepared.

So I had installed a small 2lb dry powder ABE rated fire extinguisher in the car cabin.
I mounted it in a bracket in an easy to reach position on the driver's seat front rail.

When my mate, a fireman with many years experience in the Metropolitan Fire Brigade saw it...
He laughed and said to me, "Do you really think you are going to put out a car fire with that toy!"

"What do you mean?", I said looking puzzled.

"Mate... A 1lb extinguisher has a discharge time of just 3 seconds, a 2lb one discharges its contents in around 6 seconds...
They might be okay for your little kitchen fire, but to have any chance of putting out a decent car fire, you need to carry at least a cylinder containing 4.4lbs of dry powder giving you around 12 to 14 seconds of firefighting discharge rate till empty".... 6lbs or more, of course, would be better".

I replied... "But I can't fit a huge capacity cylinder that weighs close to 9lbs in mass in front of my seat, and I want it to be in easy reach"

My Mate retorted... "If your car was on fire, trust me, the first thing you are going to do is get out of the car anyway, so mount it in the trunk...
And if you are involved in an accident and you are trapped in the car hard up against the dash and wheel, you probably won't be able to unclip and remove the extinguisher from under your seat anyway...
You are not going to put out an engine fire from inside the car!"

So I upgraded to a 4.4lb unit on his advice and mounted it at the back of the trunk as shown below.


(This car might have been saved if the driver had a decent fire extinguisher on hand)

I found a very easy place to mount the 4.4lb fire extinguisher in the trunk of the Pony.

Using cable ties, it took all of 5 minutes to install the bracket underneath the parcel shelf.

There are large holes beneath the beam to easily pass the cable ties through.

I installed a long strip of 6mm thick rubber between the metal bracket and support beam to stop any vibrations.

(For a more permanent mount, you can easily use two self-tapping screws and washers instead).

In this location, being mounted high it is easy to reach, and it is out of the way and does not hinder luggage space.

Hopefully, I'll never have to use it on my own car, but the day could come when I can assist someone else in trouble in my travels.

Large capacity 4.4lb sized extinguisher secured in place...



 

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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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My Trunk Strap Mod

A few of you have probably done this small mod, so nothing new, but I thought it was worth posting for those newer to the world of Mustangs and the forum, and looking for easy simple pratical mods.

Nothing is worse than finger marks and smudges on a freshly washed and waxed car... Okay, first world problems, I know.

Also watch straps, rings and bracelets can cause minor scratches on handling the trunk lid, especially by less car caring partners and kids.

The strap allows you to close the trunk lid, without getting finger marks or scratches on the rear applique panel.

The rear panel being high gloss plastic finish can easily scratch, especially if my wife closes it while wearing rings or bracelets.

Using an old camera hand strap, I simply made a hole in the top section of the strap to be able to attach it.
I anchored it to the right-hand top side of the lid using the existing Christmas tree fastener that holds the boot lid liner in place.




 

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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Ford Performance Hood Gas Struts Mod

When I took delivery of my EB, I was rather surprised the Mustangs don't come standard with gas hood struts.
You see all our locally produced Fords like the Falcon and Territories all come with this feature.

I also resisted getting them fitted for a while as I needed clarification on whether they were legal on Australian cars, and would affect our ADR's (Australian design regulations).

You see there are many many differences between US Mustangs and those exported globally.
For example, on our S550 Mustangs, we also have fitted by Ford what is known as the PCS (Pedestrian Collision system).
These are sensors installed behind the front bumper that detect if you hit a pedestrian.
If you hit someone while driving at over 40Km/hr, the hood is designed to lift the hood upwards at the windscreen to lessen the impact and provide a cushioning effect for the victim.

The installation of gas hood struts could hinder the operation of the PCS.

Anyway, after seeking advice, I have since sort further clarification on this grey area, on whether gas hoods struts are legal on the 2015 - 2017 RHD Mustangs in Australia.

I found the only legal requirement of aftermarket gas struts is that they can hold the weight of the hood.

Furthermore, the PCS (Pedestrian Collision system) fitted to the Mustangs is not a legal requirement in Australia as yet.

The PCS was fitted to export RHD Mustangs by Ford to comply with the requirement of the EU safety ratings in Europe.

So technically, it can be argued, that the PCS is not as yet part of the ADR (Australian Design Rules).

Therefore, a hindrance to the PCS by gas struts does not matter.

So with the above knowledge, went to our local Australian Ford Performance distributor (Herrod Performance) who is only a few miles from my home and got them fitted.
(They are also the 2nd largest Ford Performance distributor outside North America).



Paid AUD$185 inc tax for the pair.

For an extra $15 for installation, and the cutting required to the battery cover for the lower left-hand strut hinge on RHD cars... It was a no-brainer to let them do the job.



These Ford Performance struts are rated at 40.9Kg holding force each, so have no problem lifting the Mustang bonnet and keeping it open securely.

Made from lightweight steel and aluminium, they feature a durable black powder coated finish and have the laser engraved Ford Performance Logo.



A perfect hole cut in the rubber battery cover to fit the lower left-hand hinge, thanks to the professional installer in their workshop.
Not worth me dragging out my hole saw and doing it myself for $15 :)



The struts use the existing bonnet mounting points, so no drilling or extra fittings required.



Now I just have to unbolt and remove the existing prop-rod from the front of the engine bay.

A practical mod well worth doing, especially if you spend time in your engine bay keeping it clean as I do or working in the bay, and don't want the stock prop rod to get in the way. :)
 

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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Coated The Pony With Ceramic Paint Protection

The best time to ceramic coat a car's paintwork, is obviously when it is new.
The underlying paintwork will be in better condition, fewer imperfections, no swirls marks and scratches from months or years of washing, and less contamination and waxes to remove.

I had applied C-Quartz Ceramic coating myself on my previous car and was happy with the protection, shine, and hardness it gave the car, so decided to use CarPro's excellent "UK" edition this time around on the Stang.

First I gave the car a thorough wash using a wax-free super cleaning car shampoo...
Autobrite Magifoam, which contains a blend of cleansers, detergents and foamers for the removal of traffic film, dirt and light grime.
This is the most concentrated snow foam you can get, and its cleaning ability, when used as a car wash detergent with a microfibre mitt, is second to none in my experience!

Next up, a light clay bar with a lubricant to remove any contaminants on the paint surface.
(My car was manufactured in June 2017, shipped to Australia and probably stored along with others in less than ideal conditions till sold.)

So while I bought a brand new car, the reality is, as with many imported cars, they can be 12 months old or more before a buyer comes along.

This means there is bound to be some contamination on the paintwork even though they may have been wrapped in protective plastic for much of the time and the long time at sea.

Normally I would do a stage one correction using my DA polisher and quality Menzerna cutting compound and polishes, but being a new car and on inspection with my detailing lights found it was not really required.

On the couple of fine scratches and blemishes I did find, I removed by hand using Meguiar's Scratch X2.0, however, the paintwork was in otherwise excellent condition.

The final prep to remove any grease, oils or crap wax detailers the dealer might have applied on pre-delivery was a good wipe down using Gyeon Prep, my "go-to" paint preparer and cleaner.



After 3 hours of washing and pre-coating prep, I was then ready to apply the CarPro CQuartz Ceramic Coating.



C-Quartz is a revolutionary nanotechnology SiO2 (silica) based glass coating whose protection is measured in terms of years, not months or seasons.

It gives an immense gloss, and a "wet look" finish, with increased resistance to water spots, all contaminants and traffic film as well as light scratching.

Giving additional thickness on top of the manufacturers clear coat, C-Quartz has the ability to both resist and absorb damage that commonly occurs to vehicle paintwork.

It makes car washing and maintenance effortless, often only needing a pressure washer to remove everyday dirt and dust.

I prefer to use the "UK" edition, which is virtually the same strength formulation as the regular C-Quartz, but curing times using the UK edition is much faster especially in colder weather, we have at the moment in Victoria, Australia.

After allowing an hour to cure, I then followed up with a second coating of Gyeon CanCoat, which is also a Silica Quartz coating...



When you apply a ceramic coating of any sort, you cannot afford to get the car wet for the first 24 hours, otherwise, water spotting can be a problem.
Rainy weather in Melbourne at present makes it harder to keep it dry, and it is my daily drive.

To get around this problem, you need to coat the car with either Gyeon Q2M Cure or CarPro Reload, both are the same product by different manufacturers sourced from the same factory.

I used Gyeon Q2M Cure this time but prefer Reload as it is much less expensive, and I use it on a regular basis for ceramic coating maintenance.

This is the key to prolonging the life of your ceramic coating.

This spray sealant will enhance the gloss of the coating and adds further hydrophobicity to your existing ceramic coating.
It also leaves a super-slick finish on the surface and has a high concentration of SiO2 so provides a good ‘booster’ to coatings.

Ceramic coating a white car is so much easier than doing a dark car like my former Kinetic blue Falcon FG XR6Turbo, as white does not show the streaks and hides any coating imperfections very well, not being a metallic paint.

So much happier to be back in a white car. :)

Some photos of the car, that does not really give the ceramic coating justice being overcast when I took them.

The car is silky smooth to the touch and looks like it is covered with a thin layer of wet glass in the flesh. :)

After 24 hours when finally cured, the finish gets even better.







 
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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Ceramic Quartz Coated My Wheels & Tires

After a good scrub and clean, and using a proprietary brake dust and iron remover, I used Gyeon Q2 Rim Kit for the wheels.

Q2 Rim is an advanced quartz coating that has been specially designed and formulated to withstand extremely high temperatures and strong wheel cleaning chemicals.
It is ideal to protect your wheels, brake calipers and even exhaust tips.

Once applied it forms a solid fully formed SiO2 (quartz) coating that bonds onto bare metal and painted surfaces on a molecular level, which repels dirt and brake dust making cleaning your wheels much easier.

Cost for the 30ml kit is AUD$59 and lasts for 6 months or over 8,000 Kms per application.



Once the wheels were done, applied a coating of Gyeon Q2 Tire Gel.

It's a uniquely formulated Quartz dressing that unlike most tire dressings, embeds to the tire’s surface and bonds to the rubber at a molecular level.

This allows a more uniform finish, and minimises the risk of sling onto the car and will repel dirt and water.

Q2 Tire Gel has a deep semi-gloss finish that does not only offer UV protection but is also extremely durable.
It lasts up to a month or 5 washes before reapplication is required.
Cost is AUD$29 and lasts for many applications.



The finished result...

 

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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Made a custom mounting bracket for my GPS & found a great spot to mount it.

While the my Mustang has Sync 3 and an excellent built-in Sat Nav system, I still like to use my Garmin GPS as a backup.

The other advantage of the Garmin GPS is the mapping data is always up-to-date and I get lifetime free map updates, usually with a new update being available every 3 months.

The Ford map updates, on the other hand, are only updated by Ford Australia, and when you take your car in for a dealer service.

Then there is also the warnings for fixed red light and speed cameras which the Ford Sat-Nav system does not provide, of which we have many where I live.

The other thing I've noticed is that the Garmin will often take you on a faster and better route between destinations than those suggested by the inbuilt Ford Sat Nav.

I don't like mounting GPS's on the windscreen and prefer a clear view out the front window instead.

The problem with many modern car dashes like the Mustang, is there are few very mounting options and lack of suitable positions with the clutter of controls.

I found the best mounting position was over the driver's side air vent, which puts the Garmin GPS below the windscreen level and does not hinder your view in any way.

First I bought a "vent clip" type mount, but found with the weight of the Garmin, it would constantly tilt and fall downwards and was not really solid enough and was affected by road vibrations.

So today I made a custom bracket with rubber padding and utilized the front part of the vent mount by cutting it off from the vent clip and screwing it to a metal bracket.

The ball joint mount allows rotation in all directions so the perfect viewing angle of the GPS can be attained.



The custom bracket fits perfectly in between the vent blades and is tight and solid and uses a magnetic Aerpro magnet with a plate on the back of the Garmin GPS to easily attach it.
(The power cable hanging down is only the part of the cable that attaches to the GPS, the rest is neatly fitted behind the panels leading to my console compartment.)



The Garmin provides an accurate large GPS speedo readout which can be optioned easily from the map view by simply touching the screen icon.
(However, I have now installed a dedicated digital speedo, so don't use this function anymore).





The GPS seen in the photo below includes a sunshade I bought on ebay designed for 5 inch GPS screens for $10, which keeps glare from the side windows off the screen...

 

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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Interior LED Light Conversion Mod


Replaced some of the stock incandescent globes in the cabin with brighter LED ones.

The following are the globes you need for a 2015+ Mustang.
I bought them from my local electronics store at $1.40 each for both types needed.
The total cost being only $11.20.



Here's the difference in light output between the stock globe (on the left) and replacement LED (on the right) in the overhead map light...



Both replaced in the overhead map light...



Replacement LED globe in the glove box...



When I went to replace the one in the boot, to my surprise I found that it already had two LED globes mounted on a printed circuit board.

Ford must have upgraded this in my MY17 model, as the 2015 Mustangs came out with a single incandescent globe.

I am yet to replace the globes in both the driver's and passenger side vanity mirrors in the sun visors, as I am having difficulty trying to work out how to remove them without damaging them?

The replacement LEDs in the cabin produce a much whiter, cooler and brighter light and I am pleased with the result. :)
 

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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Installed Matching Rear & Front Dashcams


Fitted a Kapture KPT-850 dashcam to the rear windscreen which is identical to my front facing one.

I ran the power cable under the rear headliner which is easy to remove as it is attached using magnetic catches on the 2015 - 2018 Mustangs.

From there I ran it inside the covers of the top and front side of the rear quarter window, then down the side of the rear seat, and under the seat base to the console compartment.
The cable is nicely hidden from view in the cabin.

In the photo below, you can also see the dashcam GPS receiver attached to the top left of the back window, where it can receive the GPS signals for recording on the footage taken.



The rear cam cannot be seen from the outside of the car due to the window tint.
The dark tint does not affect the video recorded either and actually improves the video clarity by cutting out glare and bright lights washing out the footage, like wearing sunglasses. :)





All my accessories... 2 x Dashcams, Digital Speedo and Garmin GPS are powered from a multi-outlet power adaptor velcroed to the side of the console compartment and plugged into the power port in there, with a master switch, so all accessories can be turned off if needed.

Important on the new Mustangs, as the 12-volt power outlets are not turned off and remain live with the engine and main power button off... Even when you lock the car. So no chance of draining the battery.

Also, this means I have no unsightly wires and cables plugged into the main power outlet on the dash and looking messy.



Both dash cams are Wi-Fi controlled and all settings and parameters can be controlled on my iPhone which is attached to the side of the infoscreen using a magnetic holder.

I can easily set and swap which dash cam to connect to the iPhone and get a live view from each one on the phone screen.

If I rotate the phone on the magnetic holder to the horizontal position, the live image fills the screen in large landscape view.

From the phone, I can also take instant photos from the cams and download video footage clips from the 32Mb memory cards I have in each dashcam if needed with corresponding GPS and speed data.

 

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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Removed The Large Ugly Visor Label


One of the things that really spoils the cabin interior is the large yellow and white sun visor air bag warning label on the passenger side.

Not only is it always in full view, but Ford also has the exact label on the flip side of the visor on the vanity mirror cover, so it can be seen when you put the visor down as well. :mad:

The label on fabric side always in view...



Label on plastic flip side vanity mirror...



Now you can buy special felt adhesive patches cut to size from Mustang aftermarket part suppliers to cover it up, or you can spend the time to remove it.

I chose to remove it... But the patch would have been easier.

Be warned, it may sound simple to just peel the label off, but you can't.
It is stuck to the fabric visor using the worst glue I have ever had to remove!
I want to buy shares in the 'Hercules Grip SuperGlue Mark 5' that Ford uses. :)

You need a hairdryer and pair of tweezers to get it started and melt the glue bit by bit so it peels off... That's the easy part!



Once you get the label off, this is the amount of glue residue that will be left on the fabric...



Now the hard bit.
You need a brush, 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, Goof Off and a cloth...



After a half hour of soaking, brushing and scrubbing, I was finally able to remove all the residue from the fabric...

Job done, and after that, I think I'll leave the other label on the vanity mirror which looks like it is screen-printed onto the plastic lid and much harder to remove. :(

 

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Discussion Starter #18
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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Metal Air Vents Mod


Decided to fit some stainless steel air vent bezel trim covers in brushed metal finish.

They arrived nicely packed in individual sealed plastic bags with blue peel off film protecting the front of the covers.

The backs of each already came with the applied 3M double sided adhesive tape in place.

The trim covers have a lip all the way around them, so the adhesive tape cannot be seen when attached.



Application was easy, with a good wipe down of the vanes first with Gyeon Prep to remove any wax or grease (and the 303 Aerospace Protectant I had on them) to give the adhesive tape the best adhesion.





The hardest part was getting them properly aligned on the vanes, so they all can still open and close without hindrence due to the extra thickness you are adding to the vents.



For $20 including delivery, they are a simple interior cabin mod that gives the dash a touch of elegance and class in my opinion, so they are a keeper.

However, being brushed stainless steel, they do tend to show finger marks quite easily much like some kitchen fridges with a stainless finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Trunk Cargo Net & Scuff Guard

One of the first couple of practical accessories I fitted was the Ford Mustang Cargo Net and bumper Scuff Guard.

The cargo net can hold quite a few items as it stretches and expands.
It connects to the existing cargo net anchor points on either side of the trunk that comes standard on the Mustangs.

Even with the cargo net installed, plenty of trunk space remains for those really large items.
After the installation of the net, trips to the grocery store no longer results in items moving around your trunk.
Ideal for storing small items like bottles, clothes and clothing items that you need easy access to.

Features and Benefits:
  • OEM Ford accessory (but generic aftermarket ones also available)
  • Easy installation, no tools required
  • Soft braided chord protects as it supports
  • Envelope style provides maximum protection
  • Can be removed within seconds
  • Requires no permanent modifications



The Boot Scuff Guard with Mustang emblem has a large Velcro strip sewn onto the underside and it attaches to the boot carpet at one end, so you can flip it out and over the rear bumper when needed.

Ideal for dragging a golf bag out or other large items that may scratch the bumper. :)

 

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Discussion Starter #20
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* Originally posted in the forums - Reposted into this build thread for reference
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Auxiliary Extra Leather Covered Cup holder

Ordered a stitched leather cup and storage holder from eBay.
It is well made from ABS plastic, sturdy and the leather is of reasonable quality and stuck to the plastic very well with absolutely no sagging.
Unfortunately, it is a little too large to fit behind the back of the console and between the rear seat base, where I intended to put it.

However it fits nicely between the seat and console, I can easily remove it when needed and for the what I paid for it, I can't really complain.

Looks at home in the leather cabin of the Pony.





 
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