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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Carbon Black Grille Running Horse

Replaced the stock chrome front Pony emblem with the OEM gloss carbon black one.

It was probably was one of the most frustrating mods to install on the car.

I broke 2 of the 4 small plastic protruding tabs on the back of the emblem that go through the grille to secure it, while trying to put the existing thin metal locking collars on the back of them.

In the end, I gave up using the tabs to secure it and used 3M double-sided tape instead. Why Ford doesn't just use double-sided tape beats me!

Anyway, I think it gives the Stang a cleaner look from the front.







 
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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Added 1965 - 66 Mustang "High performance" fender emblem to the front of my engine cover today to complete the custom look .
Also a "Power by Ford" decal as used on the early Mustang door sills. :)



 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Added Some More Bay Bling Today

These billet chrome strut covers and engine caps are quite well made and have a solid and hefty construction for the low price I paid.

They also come with optional carbon fibre inserts, which I decided to use as well.

Like my previous BA XR6 and FG XR6T, I do enjoy under hood dressing up in my cars.

Smart looking and clean engine bays is something other like-minded enthusiasts on club meets and cruises are always interested in seeing, so some eye candy under the hood does get noticed if you belong to a club as I do. :)

As I get older, I seem to prefer a less conspicuous look on the outside of my cars, drawing less unwanted attention and flying more under the radar. (Not that it is easy when you drive a Mustang :))

Instead, the bling and goodies are hidden within, much like a private art collection.

Still a work in progress for me, with a few more things to add in the future I have in mind, as funds permit.















 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
A few more dress-ups arrived today



Drake Billet Fuse box cover...



ABS Black Master Brake Cylinder cover...



Drake Billet handbrake cover...



 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Time For Some Leather Love

There's something quite satisfying about conditioning the leather in your cabin.
keeping your interior clean is one thing, but bringing out the shine and suppleness through rejuvenating and nourishing the seats adds the finishing touch IMO.

I use Bowden's Leather Love mainly for the initial cleaning with a few microfibre towels. (For conditioning and rejuvenating, it's not the best though).

The real treat, however, is the fantastic Oakwood hydrating cream... Wow what a great Australian made product!

Originally developed for the care of leather horse saddles over 25 years ago, Oakwood know a thing or two about leather care!

Tough enough for expensive horse saddles... Then good enough for my Pony seats. :)

Oakwood hydrating cream contains a specialised formulation that includes beeswax, lanolin, and emu oil to rejuvenate leather to a luxurious finish... It is my go-to leather finishing cream every time.

I also use it on my leather steering wheel, console lid, interior door panels and the vinyl padding on the top of the Mustang dash.

I just love the luxurious glow and shine and that suppleness it gives the hard faux leather stock seats for that extra comfort and feel.





 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
My New Roush Exhaust & A Sound Clip Video

Car was in today at Mustang Motorsport, Australia's exclusive ROUSH builder, and distributor.



Got the Roush Axle-Back exhaust finally installed, and I can't wipe the smile off my face.
Even the guys at Mustang Motorsport were suitably impressed with how good the car now sounds coupled with the Cobb Stage 1 tune.

No, it will never sound like a GT, with that low V8 rumble, but it gives the 4 banger turbo a nice roar and road presence and I could not be happier.

The sound is more like a Focus RS and has a thundering aggressive growl to it at startup, idle and when you get on it... Pops and crackles included. :)

Boy was it fun going through a long tunnel on the freeway on the way home...
Nothing like giving the Roush equipped Pony a few revs and kicking down a gear or two with the paddle shifters. :)

No drone at all in the cabin, which can be a problem with some makes of aftermarket cat and axle-backs, especially on automatic Mustangs.
Roush certainly produces one of the better sounding exhausts out there for both the 2015+ GT and Ecoboost Mustangs.

I was going to install the exhaust myself, but it would mean I would have had to buy an electric reciprocating saw ($100) to cut the existing exhaust pipework, then work under the car in a confined space on my back with just jacks and car stands.

For the small fee of $165 and the 40 minute "while-I-wait" installation time, I thought it was better to leave it to the pros with a hoist who have done many of these exhausts on 2015 - 2017 Stangs.
Not worth getting my hands dirty this time. :)

Upon the hoist ready and waiting...



The Roush dual-tip Axle-Back exhaust system is constructed from T-304 stainless steel and is corrosion and stain-resistant.
Constant diameter mandrel bends maintain high flow and reduce backpressure.
The large 4-inch diameter chrome tips help to fill out the exhaust cut-outs in the rear valance diffuser much better than the stock tips and have the raised engraved Roush logo on the top of them which is a nice touch.







Here's a quick sound clip I made when I got home, with my Sony micro four-thirds camera mounted on a low tripod about 1 metre from the exhaust...

 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Fitted Some Fender Emblems

Unlike its big brother, the GT, the Ecoboost does not come with fender emblems.
The long bonnet on the S550 Mustangs, with its lengthy front fenders, means that there is a large space between the door and wheel arch.
A space that needs an emblem to visually break up this blank void in my opinion.

I decided to go with the iconic running horse, with red, blue and white tri-bar (that represents the US flag colours).

The ones I choose are high-quality expensive ones made by Scott Drake, as OEM replacements for the 1964 - 1968 Mustangs. Much better in original design and casting than the cheap ones found on eBay.



However, unlike the 64 to 68 Mustangs, the front fenders on the 2015+ Mustangs are curved rather than flat between the door and wheel arch, so some slight bending is required in a press or vice.

After numerous attempts, going between my vice in the shed and car for trial fits, and small tweaking in between, I finally got the curvature just right.

Fortunately, these Tri-bar running horse emblems are made of soft "pot" metal, so fairly easy to bend to the contour needed.



 

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Fitted Some Fender Emblems

Unlike its big brother, the GT, the Ecoboost does not come with fender emblems.
The long bonnet on the S550 Mustangs, with its lengthy front fenders, means that there is a large space between the door and wheel arch.
A space that needs an emblem to visually break up this blank void in my opinion.

I decided to go with the iconic running horse, with red, blue and white tri-bar (that represents the US flag colours).

The ones I choose are high-quality expensive ones made by Scott Drake, as OEM replacements for the 1964 - 1968 Mustangs. Much better in original design and casting than the cheap ones found on eBay.



However, unlike the 64 to 68 Mustangs, the front fenders on the 2015+ Mustangs are curved rather than flat between the door and wheel arch, so some slight bending is required in a press or vice.

After numerous attempts, going between my vice in the shed and car for trial fits, and small tweaking in between, I finally got the curvature just right.

Fortunately, these Tri-bar running horse emblems are made of soft "pot" metal, so fairly easy to bend to the contour needed.



I love those emblems, the best looking of all of them, I'd like to have those in the grill and the the trunk instead of the running pony!
 
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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Testing a New Tyre Restorer

Like many here, I've tried numerous tyre care products over the years, from the big-name brands to the latest ceramic nano-coatings.

They all do the job when first applied and look great, then after a week of driving or the first few car washes, that beautiful "new tyre look" is all but gone.

None of them seems to last very long or go the distance IMO.

Thought I'd give this new Rust-Oleum product a try. Not a brand I would normally buy, but I have heard good reports about its longevity.

It claims the finish will last up to 6 months or over 100 car washes, so will be interesting to see how it goes.



The "kit" comes with six sealed satchels of impregnated towels and a pair of Nitrate gloves. Enough to do all four wheels with two coatings.

The first coat is mostly absorbed by the rubber, and when dry you can apply the second coating.

The detailed instructions recommend thoroughly cleaning the tyres after washing with a good degreaser and white rags until no more black rubber residue can be seen on the white clothes.

The chemicals used in the formulation are highly dangerous to your health, skin and can even cause cancer, so wearing the Nitrate gloves is imperative as is working in a well-ventilated space.

You can tell immediately, the industrial formula used in this product, is different from your normal tyre care products, as it stinks something shocking... The smell of rotten eggs would be how I would best describe it.

The smell was so strong, and I applied it under my open carport, that I could still smell it hours later in the driveway while it takes the 24 hours to fully cure. Certainly very different to the products I normally use.
I think they should have included a gas mask in the kit along with the gloves.

The results after 24 hours are spectacular though, with a very nice sheen and new tyre look.

I will see how it stands up to car washes, rain and normal driving.
Time will tell.



 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Just a Little Red Button Today

Red carbon fibre starter :) ...



 

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I really like the fender emblem on the engine cover. Nice touch. The car looks fantastic.
 
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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Installed a Roush CAI

Replaced the stock airbox and intake tube today with the big Roush.

Install was easy with the supplied instructions and took me around 45 minutes.
Quality and fit are excellent, as I've found with the other Roush mods I've done to the car. (Exhaust and side scoops).

The inlets for the PVC connector, and BOV recirculation tube fitted perfectly to those connections and the socket for the "speed density sensor" fitted like a charm.

The open lid design seems to seal well against the hood liner when the bonnet is closed.

I did this mod, not so much for any real performance gains, as the stock box flows air very well, but more for engine bay aesthetics and the glorious sound.

The airbox is, well...Huge to say the least... And commands attention in the engine bay almost dwarfing the engine. :)

The pod filter is also a "dry filter", washable, and unlike the K&N pods, does not require re-oiling, which is a bonus.
The intake tube is a little larger in diameter than the stock one as well.



This CAI is loud... Very loud!
You can hear the air being pulled in with a strong whoosh sound like a jet engine under the bonnet and you can also hear the BOV "Pssssh" sound as it releases compressed air back into the intake when you come off boost.

It complements the Roush exhaust rather nicely I think, as you get both intake and exhaust sounds which play in harmony. :)

On my test drives, I monitored the Air inlet temps compared to outside ambient using the digital dash gauge readout, and AIT's seemed much lower than the stock airbox.
Inlet temp seemed to hover only about 6 - 7 degrees above ambient, and about 5 degrees less than the stock airbox did.

Anyway, I'm quite pleased with this mod, if not for the sound alone. :)

 
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