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How many miles have you put on your tune? - Approx. 75,00km (Total 83,000km)

Are you daily driving your car? - Pretty much, save for COVID WFH

Did you wait for the warranty to expire first? If you did, 36k/3yr or 60k/5 year? - Nope

Are you pro tuned or OTS tuned? - Pro-Tuned via CRD

Ethanol or Pump gas? - Pump Gas Shell ULTRA 98 (its an Aussie thing)

What kindof bolt ons are you running? Are you on Stock Block or Built Block/Heads / Any heavy modification to "bulletproof" your car? - Stock Block; Cobb intake, Inter-cooler, Turbo Blanket and V2 Cat Back Exhaust. Mishimoto 3" Catted Downpipe (Cobb doesn't fit RHD without modding). Royal Purple HPS oil, since first change.

Any issues? Minor or otherwise? - nothing mechanical

Has your dealer upheld your warranty despite a tune/ Has your dealer denied a warranty claim even though you didnt void your tune and remained on a stock tune? - Dealer serviced, never an issue with warranty work
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
How many miles have you put on your tune? 15,000

Are you daily driving your car? Yup

Did you wait for the warranty to expire first? If you did, 36k/3yr or 60k/5 year? Nope

Are you pro tuned or OTS tuned? Protuned by PD Tuning

Ethanol or Pump gas? 91 Pump gas

What kindof bolt ons are you running? Are you on Stock Block or Built Block/Heads / Any heavy modification to "bulletproof" your car? CVF street intercooler and catted down pipe, K&N filter, Airaid intake, MBRP exhaust, cooler plugs, Stock Block, and some suspension mods.

Any issues? Minor or otherwise? No issues so far. I try to be preventative. Regular oil changes every 5k miles, warm up the oil before doing any pulls, not racing from light to light (I pick my battles).
My eco is setup in a very similar way and the way youre describing how you treat your eco is very similar aswell. I think the best step is to go protuned if im not mistaken, did you ever do the ots tune before pro?

Thank you for your reply by the way!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
How many miles have you put on your tune? - Approx. 75,00km (Total 83,000km)

Are you daily driving your car? - Pretty much, save for COVID WFH

Did you wait for the warranty to expire first? If you did, 36k/3yr or 60k/5 year? - Nope

Are you pro tuned or OTS tuned? - Pro-Tuned via CRD

Ethanol or Pump gas? - Pump Gas Shell ULTRA 98 (its an Aussie thing)

What kindof bolt ons are you running? Are you on Stock Block or Built Block/Heads / Any heavy modification to "bulletproof" your car? - Stock Block; Cobb intake, Inter-cooler, Turbo Blanket and V2 Cat Back Exhaust. Mishimoto 3" Catted Downpipe (Cobb doesn't fit RHD without modding). Royal Purple HPS oil, since first change.

Any issues? Minor or otherwise? - nothing mechanical

Has your dealer upheld your warranty despite a tune/ Has your dealer denied a warranty claim even though you didnt void your tune and remained on a stock tune? - Dealer serviced, never an issue with warranty work
Yeah it seems like the Australian Ford guys got you and Horcy's backs for the warranty & modifications, the dealers in America will stop at nothing to ruin your build and suck the bone marrow out of you just for some cash. Looks like protuning is the way to go lol. Happy to see there isnt any issues with your eco, I've always wondered how yall's car scene is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
How many miles have you put on your tune? About 2.5K, Thanks COVID!

Are you daily driving your car? DD

Did you wait for the warranty to expire first? If you did, 36k/3yr or 60k/5 year? No... Also got the extra 3 year bumper to bumper warranty along with the Tire/Wheel Protection.

Are you pro tuned or OTS tuned? OTS, Ford Performance

Ethanol or Pump gas? "91" but fill with 93 (no 91 in my area and rumor has it you still need 93 for full powa!).

What kindof bolt ons are you running? Are you on Stock Block or Built Block/Heads / Any heavy modification to "bulletproof" your car? K&N Filter provided with Tune. Next mods are IC and Exhaust after I find a good pair of summer shoes to mess around in.

Any issues? Minor or otherwise? None. Like other posts, been trying to do preventative maintenance since this will probably be the last gas engine car I'll own unless something major happens.

Has your dealer upheld your warranty despite a tune/ Has your dealer denied a warranty claim even though you didnt void your tune and remained on a stock tune? Haven't needed to bring it in yet for something like that, but between talking with multiple service people at my dealership, and people who've had the FP Tune previously, I expect it to be a none issue.
Aside from pro tunes, i see the FP tunes are pretty popular because it retains a warranty and is a more laid back tune that will most likely never grenade your car. How's the power in the FP tune?
 
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How many miles have you put on your tune? - Approx. 8k (on/off)

Are you daily driving your car? - Work from home

Did you wait for the warranty to expire first? I waited until the 5/60 powertrain expired (car had 40k) before adding the supporting bolt-on mods and ECU flashing because I wanted be sure there were no defects present. Our 5 month old 2022 Santa Fe 2.5T Caligula with 7500 needs a new transmission. If I had rushed out and ECU flashed I would be paying for a new transmission instead so keep the defect possibility in mind before voiding a warranty.

Are you pro tuned or OTS tuned? - Bama Rev-x 91

Ethanol or Pump gas? - Pump Gas BP 93

What kind of bolt-ons are you running? Catted downpipe, 2.25 glasspack, MBRP Cat-back, K&N air filter, Intake tube, Intercooler and charge pipes

Are you on Stock Block or Built Block/Heads / Any heavy modification to "bulletproof" your car? - JLT oil separator to help reduce containments that may reduce Octane level, CFM valve cover breather to help reduce positive crankcase pressure, reduce blow-by. No block or head mods.

Any issues? Minor or otherwise? - No engine issues before or after modifying.

Has your dealer upheld your warranty despite a tune/ Has your dealer denied a warranty claim even though you didn't void your tune and remained on a stock tune? - My Turbo wastegate failed 2 weeks after the 5/60 expired but I had the premium extended warranty for 6/60. I had the K&N filter, cat-back, and intercooler with charge pipes present but no ECU flash. The dealership did honor the warranty only after verifying the ECU was not flashed. The service manager went over the things Ford looks for that could have caused the warranty to be denied for a Turbo which included, BOV, CAI, downpipe, wastegate, ECU flashing, or any part that increases volume. For instance, The street intercoolers and MBRP cat-back maintain the same input and output diameter vs a Race intercooler and full 3 inch exhaust. So try using direct replacement parts to be more warranty friendly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
How many miles have you put on your tune? - Approx. 8k (on/off)

Are you daily driving your car? - Work from home

Did you wait for the warranty to expire first? I waited until the 5/60 powertrain expired (car had 40k) before adding the supporting bolt-on mods and ECU flashing because I wanted be sure there were no defects present. Our 5 month old 2022 Santa Fe 2.5T Caligula with 7500 needs a new transmission. If I had rushed out and ECU flashed I would be paying for a new transmission instead so keep the defect possibility in mind before voiding a warranty.

Are you pro tuned or OTS tuned? - Bama Rev-x 91

Ethanol or Pump gas? - Pump Gas BP 93

What kind of bolt-ons are you running? Catted downpipe, 2.25 glasspack, MBRP Cat-back, K&N air filter, Intake tube, Intercooler and charge pipes

Are you on Stock Block or Built Block/Heads / Any heavy modification to "bulletproof" your car? - JLT oil separator to help reduce containments that may reduce Octane level, CFM valve cover breather to help reduce positive crankcase pressure, reduce blow-by. No block or head mods.

Any issues? Minor or otherwise? - No engine issues before or after modifying.

Has your dealer upheld your warranty despite a tune/ Has your dealer denied a warranty claim even though you didn't void your tune and remained on a stock tune? - My Turbo wastegate failed 2 weeks after the 5/60 expired but I had the premium extended warranty for 6/60. I had the K&N filter, cat-back, and intercooler with charge pipes present but no ECU flash. The dealership did honor the warranty only after verifying the ECU was not flashed. The service manager went over the things Ford looks for that could have caused the warranty to be denied for a Turbo which included, BOV, CAI, downpipe, wastegate, ECU flashing, or any part that increases volume. For instance, The street intercoolers and MBRP cat-back maintain the same input and output diameter vs a Race intercooler and full 3 inch exhaust. So try using direct replacement parts to be more warranty friendly.
Crap. I have a blow off valve but i spoke to a few service guys and they said the BOV wouldnt void it. If it turns out they鈥檒l void my entire powertrain bc of a single component like that, im going in and getting a E30 tune馃槵 i鈥檒l definitely be calling them and asking again. And also im gonna see if the same guy will help me if i tune & have a failure that would normally be covered by my standard warranty.
 

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Crap. I have a blow off valve but i spoke to a few service guys and they said the BOV wouldnt void it. If it turns out they鈥檒l void my entire powertrain bc of a single component like that, im going in and getting a E30 tune馃槵 i鈥檒l definitely be calling them and asking again. And also im gonna see if the same guy will help me if i tune & have a failure that would normally be covered by my standard warranty.
The BOV doesn't void the powertrain warranty, it's something Ford looks for when a Turbo fails. The service manager printed out a service bulletin from Ford while I was there but I didn't make a copy of the document.

So in my case, anything that connected to the Turbo would be a red flag like a downpipe, CAI, BOV, wastegate, and ECU flash. The Charge pipes are connected to the Turbo but since I had direct replacement parts they couldn't void for the charge pipes or intercooler. Also, since the cat-cack maintained the 2.25 connection to the OEM downpipe they couldn't void for the cat-back either.
 

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Aside from pro tunes, i see the FP tunes are pretty popular because it retains a warranty and is a more laid back tune that will most likely never grenade your car. How's the power in the FP tune?
So I would say its very nice. You definitely notice the extra torque once the car learns the tune. Since I got the 10R80, I mainly got the FP tune mainly to resolve the issues I had with its stock tuning, full well knowing I'll probably do some form of Pro-tune later down the line. But I'm pretty pleased with the power to the point I feel I don't need anything more (since I don't really drive in the upper RPM's and I'm more or less satisfied with it not falling on its face as hard, still does but feels more similar to a HPP car, I know I'll probably get backlash for that comment), so instead of power I'll probably start throwing the money at the aesthetics and suspension/tires like I previously implied. I would say probably about 90% of people would be satisfied with the FP Tune. Ford Accessories updated website shows what they dynoed the 18 10 speed variant at in case people wanted WHP/WTQ numbers. Its the second image for those curious.
 

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My eco is setup in a very similar way and the way youre describing how you treat your eco is very similar aswell. I think the best step is to go protuned if im not mistaken, did you ever do the ots tune before pro?

Thank you for your reply by the way!
I did Cobb OTS tune stage 1 when I just had a filter and catback exhaust and it worked just fine! I did Cobb stage two for a little bit once I upgraded the intercooler, but I was getting really high Ignition Corrections (-8.00) which made me a bit nervous, so I got a Protune from PD and the highest Ignition correction I ever get is (2.50) nowadays.
 

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I had about 15k miles on my 93 pump tune from Ryan when the engine blew up. I was full bolton with an NX2 turbo and had the fuel setup to run E85 in the summer months. I kinda expected the engine to go out like it did so nothing surprised me there. I spent the last year having Jessie at EMS put together a longblock that is good for about 600HP at the wheel. The only other thing i added to the powertrain was an upgraded DW400 fuel pump to make a "bulletproof" setup. The goal is to have a daily street monster that I can take to the track and have fun with. I have a mild build on my Honda with a small twin screw that is perfect as a daily that I can take to the track and some twisty roads. whats great about this setup is I can beat on it and still drive it back home with no issues. Id like to think I can do a similar setup on the Mustang on a somewhat larger scale. Im hoping to make about 400HP on 93 pump and 500HP on E85 which should be plenty of power for my needs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I had about 15k miles on my 93 pump tune from Ryan when the engine blew up. I was full bolton with an NX2 turbo and had the fuel setup to run E85 in the summer months. I kinda expected the engine to go out like it did so nothing surprised me there. I spent the last year having Jessie at EMS put together a longblock that is good for about 600HP at the wheel. The only other thing i added to the powertrain was an upgraded DW400 fuel pump to make a "bulletproof" setup. The goal is to have a daily street monster that I can take to the track and have fun with. I have a mild build on my Honda with a small twin screw that is perfect as a daily that I can take to the track and some twisty roads. whats great about this setup is I can beat on it and still drive it back home with no issues. Id like to think I can do a similar setup on the Mustang on a somewhat larger scale. Im hoping to make about 400HP on 93 pump and 500HP on E85 which should be plenty of power for my needs.
Ah you think the combo of turbo + tune was too much for the block? I've seen most stock block eco's do fine with a tune + stock turbo. Ive been advised against going big turbo
 

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Ah you think the combo of turbo + tune was too much for the block? I've seen most stock block eco's do fine with a tune + stock turbo. Ive been advised against going big turbo
Im not really sure what the cause of the engine failure was. I was getting periodic detonation on wot at the bottom of the powerband that I tried to have Ryan address. He adjusted my tune and the detonation went away for 1-2 revisions. It came back later and I continued to ignore it so its possible the continued detonation caused some cracks in the block that endewd with Ecoboom. My car seemd to run fine on a finalized tune with the stock turbo. I was running an NX2 on a stock block when the engine went out.
 

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Mine had 52,000 Miles when it cracked block. Had Cai, catback, larger intercooler, Cobb stage 2 OTS. It was tuned for about 20,000 miles. So bought new block and going to put better internals in it hoping to get more HP and reliability. Wife scratching head as to why I'm not to totally upset about car blowing up. It gives me a chance to put together a motor built by me 馃榿.
 

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Mine had 52,000 Miles when it cracked block. Had Cai, catback, larger intercooler, Cobb stage 2 OTS. It was tuned for about 20,000 miles. So bought new block and going to put better internals in it hoping to get more HP and reliability. Wife scratching head as to why I'm not to totally upset about car blowing up. It gives me a chance to put together a motor built by me .
When I blew motor I was upset initially but then I used it as an opportunity to further plan out my build. My build is on the final stages of completion and should be done this month.
 

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Im not really sure what the cause of the engine failure was. I was getting periodic detonation on wot at the bottom of the powerband that I tried to have Ryan address. He adjusted my tune and the detonation went away for 1-2 revisions. It came back later and I continued to ignore it so its possible the continued detonation caused some cracks in the block that endewd with Ecoboom. My car seemd to run fine on a finalized tune with the stock turbo. I was running an NX2 on a stock block when the engine went out.
How much boost were you running with the NX2?
 

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Mine had 52,000 Miles when it cracked block. Had Cai, catback, larger intercooler, Cobb stage 2 OTS. It was tuned for about 20,000 miles. So bought new block and going to put better internals in it hoping to get more HP and reliability. Wife scratching head as to why I'm not to totally upset about car blowing up. It gives me a chance to put together a motor built by me 馃榿.
I'm no expert, but from what I have learned, I think that a custom tune is the way to go. Stage 1 might be relatively safe as an OTS, but if you are going past Stage 1 get a custom tune. The simple answer - once you start pushing more power, a tune specifically for your car is much better than an OTS map. That's how it has worked for me so far anyway. Stage 1 really made the car much more drivable and fun. The custom tune with FBO is a completely different car. I get nearly no timing correction and a huge increase in power.
 

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Yep new build will get custom tune right after I finish build. Was getting ready to do it before it grenaded. And it's funny how it granaded just driving nice. Not even pushing it. I was on my way to funeral. But must have been funeral for block.
 

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Yep new build will get custom tune right after I finish build. Was getting ready to do it before it grenaded. And it's funny how it granaded just driving nice. Not even pushing it. I was on my way to funeral. But must have been funeral for block.
Mine went out in the same fashion. Did some pulls earlier in the morning and logs looked perfect. Driving it easy is when the engine blew up.
 

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I was peaking at 28psi.
OK! Thanks for the reply. Does this make sense to you? I'm trying to learn, and this is what I understand at this point. The larger turbo puts out a much larger volume of air, so it should take less boost to produce the same performance as with the smaller stock turbo. So, for example, and I'm making these numbers up for sake of discussion, because I don't have any real world numbers but it makes the point of how it works from what I understand - if the stock turbo pushed 25 pounds of boost to produce a given level of power, a larger turbo with increased air volume should be able to produce the same power at say 20 pounds of boost. Does that make sense? So to follow it through, the NX2 at 28 pounds of boost might be like running the stock turbo at 35 pounds of boost, as an example. So that greatly increased volume of air, resulting in a huge jump in power was more than the block could handle?

Taking it further, if the goal was safety and longevity of the engine, wouldn't it be better to run the larger turbo at 20 pounds of boost, vs the smaller at 25 pounds of boost, assuming they put out equal power due to the larger turbo's higher volume of air at less boost pressure?
 
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