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So, for people that leave their cars stock and do not thrash them....do these engines still fail?
There has been a few that claim they were truly 100% stock when they boomed but rare and well within the failure rates of pretty much all manufacturers and vehicles that are mass produced.

When you consider all the vehicles the 2.3l was, is and will be in there are vast amount of 2.3l out there. Statistically its a reliable engine stock.
 

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While anything can happen, I believe you're okay if you do proper maintenance, let the turbo / engine properly warm up before pushing it, and not lugging the motor.
Granted, I live in Miami and really don't ever have to deal with frigid temps, but believe you, me, I remote start my car about 5-10 minutes before getting in EVERY MORNING, and I put the oil temp gauge front and center on the display. I won't open it up, or go into boost until that meter has safely crossed into the 'green' zone.
 

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Granted, I live in Miami and really don't ever have to deal with frigid temps, but believe you, me, I remote start my car about 5-10 minutes before getting in EVERY MORNING, and I put the oil temp gauge front and center on the display. I won't open it up, or go into boost until that meter has safely crossed into the 'green' zone.
I am the exact opposite. I start the car manually, open the garage door, and immediately put it into reverse. About 30 seconds later I am exiting the community sideways and doing a 0-60 pull on the main road leaving the community. Been that way for 5 years (2 sets of tires) and 43k miles.

When I come back into the community I am doing 20MPH for 30 seconds before shutting it down.
 

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Granted, I live in Miami and really don't ever have to deal with frigid temps, but believe you, me, I remote start my car about 5-10 minutes before getting in EVERY MORNING, and I put the oil temp gauge front and center on the display. I won't open it up, or go into boost until that meter has safely crossed into the 'green' zone.
thats bad for your car.

get in car, turn it on, as soon as the engine idles down to the 1k or whatever, go. just don't floor it.

trust me on this. its been proven warming up with low pressure is not good for it.
 

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I am from Alaska, and winter even more so. the car turns on, let it idle for a few seconds and go. the quicker your car gets the fluids moving and car gets up to operating temp the better.

warming up in cold weather or warm, but especially cold, takes FOREVER and its not good for it.
 

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I am the exact opposite. I start the car manually, open the garage door, and immediately put it into reverse. About 30 seconds later I am exiting the community sideways and doing a 0-60 pull on the main road leaving the community. Been that way for 5 years (2 sets of tires) and 43k miles.

When I come back into the community I am doing 20MPH for 30 seconds before shutting it down.
Haha. I don't go that far. But i rarely warm my car up unless its just dang cold like this morning. But i don't get into it. I baby it until its warm. It seems logical to me that if a bad detonation happened when really cold the block would be less flexible and more brittle in that notorious 3/4 spot. Let alone less lubrication in the tight tolerance areas risking more damage. That said until the block warms up when it's cold outside the engine power is cut drastically from the exhaust gasses not expanding to drive the turbo. But also i don't personally see any knock events when the engine is cold as predetonation happens more on a hot engine. My fear would be more of a lubrication damage taking place.
 

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I am from Alaska, and winter even more so. the car turns on, let it idle for a few seconds and go. the quicker your car gets the fluids moving and car gets up to operating temp the better.

warming up in cold weather or warm, but especially cold, takes FOREVER and its not good for it.
Agreed! Most (~80%) of your engines wear occurs at start up and warm up. The best way to minimize wear is to start the vehicle and drive it at moderate speeds immediately.

Dave
 

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So, for people that leave their cars stock and do not thrash them....do these engines still fail?
Thats the 65 million dollar question. Same question get asked for just about every type of car. As I said before I remember the same questions asked about the 7MGTE engines apart from the head gasket studs that were never torqued correctly from factory it was a bloody good engine 3 washers and you had crazy horse power. The RB25DET engines can you "safely" make 400bhp with FBO? Yes with adequate cooling infact Rising Sun Performance in the UK actually sold you a Full bolt on kit but replace the manifold studs and coil packs first. Then the SR20DET is it reliable? Yeah its pretty much bullet proof but replace the coil packs and the VVT rust will kill it before the engine dies.

The failures appeared to be more from "kids" that boosted the cars without the correct maintenance tune and or cooling first.
 

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Maybe 5-10 min was a bit of an exaggeration. My routine is to remote start it, pour my coffee into my tin, give my goodbyes, and walk outside to get situated inside the car before I actually pull out. My main gist is that I don't get on it until oil temp is green. I agree that cars don't enjoy idling for too long.
 

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Granted, I live in Miami and really don't ever have to deal with frigid temps, but believe you, me, I remote start my car about 5-10 minutes before getting in EVERY MORNING, and I put the oil temp gauge front and center on the display. I won't open it up, or go into boost until that meter has safely crossed into the 'green' zone.
I don't drive in the winter, but I do get some cold temps (high 30's) in the fall. I don't warm up too long (couple mins maybe) but I also take it real easy til it gets warm. Sometimes I'll be halfway to work on a 10 mile drive before it gets to temp. I'm definitely a firm believer in operating temps though.
 

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Maybe 5-10 min was a bit of an exaggeration. My routine is to remote start it, pour my coffee into my tin, give my goodbyes, and walk outside to get situated inside the car before I actually pull out. My main gist is that I don't get on it until oil temp is green. I agree that cars don't enjoy idling for too long.
I don't think that's too bad. Agreed idling for half an hour would be ridiculous, but I wouldn't worry over a couple minutes. My routine is very similar. Except this morning. I let my beater warm up for probably 15 minutes and I don't feel bad at all about it ha. It was 5 below zero, I had no intentions on starting my ranger in this weather and letting that idle that long, and I don't care if the beater blows up haha.
 

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I don't think that's too bad. Agreed idling for half an hour would be ridiculous, but I wouldn't worry over a couple minutes. My routine is very similar. Except this morning. I let my beater warm up for probably 15 minutes and I don't feel bad at all about it ha. It was 5 below zero, I had no intentions on starting my ranger in this weather and letting that idle that long, and I don't care if the beater blows up haha.
Funny story, I was working 16-18 hour shifts 6-7 days a week for awhile in Alaska, one day I came home at like 5pm and was EXHAUSTED with chipotle, it was winter, so it was dark out, I don't know why but I forgot my 2012 Scion tC on. I ate and fell asleep, I woke up next day, 12 hours later. and couldn't find my car keys. I called work said im going to be late etc....

I go outside.. my car was still idling, in 0* winter, and heat was on full blast. my interior was like 200 degrees.


ive had it 8 years later, never had a single issue with the darn thing. I am glad I didn't run out of fuel.
 

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Funny story, I was working 16-18 hour shifts 6-7 days a week for awhile in Alaska, one day I came home at like 5pm and was EXHAUSTED with chipotle, it was winter, so it was dark out, I don't know why but I forgot my 2012 Scion tC on. I ate and fell asleep, I woke up next day, 12 hours later. and couldn't find my car keys. I called work said im going to be late etc....

I go outside.. my car was still idling, in 0* winter, and heat was on full blast. my interior was like 200 degrees.


ive had it 8 years later, never had a single issue with the darn thing. I am glad I didn't run out of fuel.
I had an 86 iroc i left idling for like 6hr when i was 19 but it was mid fall only around 50° out. No problems. While car engines are manufactured to run while driving and not idle for long periods once the car is fully warm and at operating temperatures i don't think it hurts them. Lots of 2 and 4 stroke engines out there that run mainly at an idle in industrial settings that have thousands of hours on them these usually have an idle controller that will increase rpm until proper temperature has been achieved. The key is operating temperature being reached as quickly as possible and as needed.
 

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Funny story, I was working 16-18 hour shifts 6-7 days a week for awhile in Alaska, one day I came home at like 5pm and was EXHAUSTED with chipotle, it was winter, so it was dark out, I don't know why but I forgot my 2012 Scion tC on. I ate and fell asleep, I woke up next day, 12 hours later. and couldn't find my car keys. I called work said im going to be late etc....

I go outside.. my car was still idling, in 0* winter, and heat was on full blast. my interior was like 200 degrees.


ive had it 8 years later, never had a single issue with the darn thing. I am glad I didn't run out of fuel.
Ha my dad has told me stories of leaving heavy equipment run for a couple days just due to cold weather. We're talking years ago when it was at that time -30 or so. They had to just to keep the fuel from gelling up and the tractors running. Obviously were talking industrial diesel motors vs. car motors, but you get the idea.
 
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At the track "with 0W/50 racing oil", I keep my motor as cool as possible and idle into the staging lanes with the oil temp just a bit above ambient. With my personal Mustang, I follow the manufacturer recommendations (within reason) and have never had any problems. I've always kept my personal cars and trucks for 10 years or 100,000 miles. And with most of them, I've never done anything other than oil and filter changes.
At the track, everything that has broken or worn out early, has been my fault (due to my build, beat, break, rebuild attitude... lol).
 

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I always tune an octane lower I can easily get 93 around me but apply 91 tunes. Seems to have worked well so far for me though I am losing a decent chunk of power.
 

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I always tune an octane lower I can easily get 93 around me but apply 91 tunes. Seems to have worked well so far for me though I am losing a decent chunk of power.
I thought for a long time I'd go Cobb eventually, but I'm fairly certain now that I'm sticking with my 'torque based' FP tune for 91 octane. The car is plenty in quick like this.
 

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I had an 86 iroc i left idling for like 6hr when i was 19 but it was mid fall only around 50° out. No problems. While car engines are manufactured to run while driving and not idle for long periods once the car is fully warm and at operating temperatures i don't think it hurts them. Lots of 2 and 4 stroke engines out there that run mainly at an idle in industrial settings that have thousands of hours on them these usually have an idle controller that will increase rpm until proper temperature has been achieved. The key is operating temperature being reached as quickly as possible and as needed.
The mustang shuts itself off after 30 mins if left to idle.
 
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