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So it still looks like I am having a fuel problem then. I have dual port shortie Valve,mishimoto intercooler,CVF Aluminum Intercooler Charge Pipe Kit OEM Flange,mishimoto catch can, 6510 NGK spark plugs, custom cat back exhaust, No down pip yet.drop in k/n air filter. I am thinking fuel injectors might be causing the car to go 14.99. Should I redo another data log
What about your O2 sensors? I don't understand what you previously said about your O2 sensors. Fuel injectors don't normally go lean as they wear, unless one completely plugs up, and then you'd have a completely dead cylinder. As fuel injectors wear/age they typically develop a bad spray pattern, which would most commonly manifest as a cold start or cold driveability issue.
 

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What about your O2 sensors? I don't understand what you previously said about your O2 sensors. Fuel injectors don't normally go lean as they wear, unless one completely plugs up, and then you'd have a completely dead cylinder. As fuel injectors wear/age they typically develop a bad spray pattern, which would most commonly manifest as a cold start or cold driveability issue.
My o2's have been replaced and they are working now, I couldn't pass emissions because my 02 sensors didn't want to read, they are reading now, the only reason why I am leaning towards fuel injectors is because my fuel pressure was very low on load I have replaced my fuel pump and the high pressure fuel pump and the low and high fuel Sensors. Still fuel pressure is low on load I am just confused on why. The only thing is fuel injectors or lines. Even tho I have been working on cars for years I can't seem to case this one down. I took it two another shop to see if I maybe over looking but nope they say it's my fuel pump I was like I have replaced that already that's the funny part.
 

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My o2's have been replaced and they are working now, I couldn't pass emissions because my 02 sensors didn't want to read, they are reading now, the only reason why I am leaning towards fuel injectors is because my fuel pressure was very low on load I have replaced my fuel pump and the high pressure fuel pump and the low and high fuel Sensors. Still fuel pressure is low on load I am just confused on why. The only thing is fuel injectors or lines. Even tho I have been working on cars for years I can't seem to case this one down. I took it two another shop to see if I maybe over looking but nope they say it's my fuel pump I was like I have replaced that already that's the funny part.
Was the data log in your first post done with the old or the new O2 sensors?
How do you know your fuel pressure is low? Did you attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel system? Did you replace the fuel pump in the tank?
You could visually inspect your fuel lines, to see if there's a crimped or damaged line, but otherwise an internal restriction would be really uncommon.
 

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Was the data log in your first post done with the old or the new O2 sensors?
How do you know your fuel pressure is low? Did you attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel system? Did you replace the fuel pump in the tank?
You could visually inspect your fuel lines, to see if there's a crimped or damaged line, but otherwise an internal restriction would be really uncommon.
That data log was before I replaced them, yes I put a fuel gauge on it before and after I replaced the fuel pump. I need to look again at my fuel lines but I can redo a fast data log on WOT.
 

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That data log was before I replaced them, yes I put a fuel gauge on it before and after I replaced the fuel pump. I need to look again at my fuel lines but I can redo a fast data log on WOT.
Do another data log, to look at the AFR again.
Start at idle, do a light to moderate acceleration to cruise, then WOT.
 

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At idle, cruising, and light to moderate acceleration your AFR should be very close to 14.0. As you pass through moderate acceleration towards WOT, your AFR should drop significantly. My car, which still has the stock tune, will drop to an AFR of 10.2 at WOT. An AFR of 10.2, at WOT, is a little rich, presumably for safety.
This is something I've been thinking about...
What does the factory tune put in to keep our motors safe vs. What do our aftermarket and custom tunes remove to keep us happy?
I won't slam my tuner, he's not the one who set my power goals, I am!
I just want to understand what changes he has to make to produce the crazy numbers I demand. Same for engine builders and aftermarket parts manufacturers.
 

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This is something I've been thinking about...
What does the factory tune put in to keep our motors safe vs. What do our aftermarket and custom tunes remove to keep us happy?
I won't slam my tuner, he's not the one who set my power goals, I am!
I just want to understand what changes he has to make to produce the crazy numbers I demand. Same for engine builders and aftermarket parts manufacturers.
The factory tune runs a bit rich at WOT, and there are definitely tuners that run leaner, to make more power. Leaner is riskier, especially if you get a bad tank of gas, or if you have a mechanical problem that leans it out even more.
The factory tune is adaptive to varying octanes, but I don't know how it senses the current octane or why aftermarket tuners can't produce an octane adaptive tune. The adaptive capability of the factory tune is probably why you see so few engine failures on stock engines and why you see so many on tuned engines. I suspect many of the ecobooms we're caused by bad gas and not monitoring OAR/KOM, ignition corrections, or anything else.
Also, the factory tune has torque management, meaning it limits power
output. I don't know how it senses power output, but I know it uses boost, and possibly ignition timing or valve timing, to limit power. I did a lot of 0-60 testing, in temps from 45°-75°, and noticed my best time of 5.0 seconds never varied with temperature. I did notice, when the car was stock, my second pass was always at least .3 seconds slower and successive passes were even a little slower. The stock intercooler would heat soak after one 0-60 pass, even in 45° weather.
I upgraded the intercooler, air filter, and
air tube but kept the stock tune, then did a bunch more 0-60 passes. I immediately noticed that I lost about 1 psi of boost, but my best 0-60 time was still 5.0 seconds. Also, now I could consistently run multiple passes with times of 5.0-5.2 seconds. The new intercooler solved the heat soak issue, and the new intercooler, air filter, and air tube would have made more power, but torque management dialed the boost back to prevent it. So, with an aftermarket tune, you lose torque management and octane adaptability, and you possibly get a leaner fuel mixture. Those 3 things make ecoboom more likely to happen. If your going to tune, monitor closely, use Top Tier Gas, and use a full synthetic SN+ or SP oil.
 

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That data log was before I replaced them, yes I put a fuel gauge on it before and after I replaced the fuel pump. I need to look again at my fuel lines but I can redo a fast data log on WOT.
Have you done another data log on your car?
Have you found anything else wrong with your car or replaced or repaired anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Have you done another data log on your car?
Have you found anything else wrong with your car or replaced or repaired anything else?
:jdsfly Thank you for helping me wish you was a tuner your very helpful.
There's three Data Logs. 11 is just idle, 12 Is idle cruse idle then cruse then wot, 13 should be Cruse to wot. here is what i changed in the car all fuel related
1. In tank fuel pump
2. High Pressure fuel pump
3. Low pressure fuel sensor
4. High Pressure fuel sensor
5. Fuel injectors
6. Fuel rail
7. Purge valve
8. Spark plugs 6510's
9. fuel from a different gas station
10. O2's Oxygen sensors
11. fuel pump control module
12. Down grade tune
I have tired everything no code so cant really tell what it is.
Still wants to die when I come to a stop or when I put on my a/c or heater drop way below 1k rpm.
All am needing is help before I blow this motor.
 

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:jdsfly Thank you for helping me wish you was a tuner your very helpful.
There's three Data Logs. 11 is just idle, 12 Is idle cruse idle then cruse then wot, 13 should be Cruse to wot. here is what i changed in the car all fuel related
1. In tank fuel pump
2. High Pressure fuel pump
3. Low pressure fuel sensor
4. High Pressure fuel sensor
5. Fuel injectors
6. Fuel rail
7. Purge valve
8. Spark plugs 6510's
9. fuel from a different gas station
10. O2's Oxygen sensors
11. fuel pump control module
12. Down grade tune
I have tired everything no code so cant really tell what it is.
Still wants to die when I come to a stop or when I put on my a/c or heater drop way below 1k rpm.
All am needing is help before I blow this motor.
I will look at your data logs, when I get a chance. What tune did you use, to make these data logs? In total, what are your current symptoms of poor running? Is it only stalling or a low idle RPM, when coming to a stop or adding an electric or A/C load, or is there more?
 

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I will look at your data logs, when I get a chance. What tune did you use, to make these data logs? In total, what are your current symptoms of poor running? Is it only stalling or a low idle RPM, when coming to a stop or adding an electric or A/C load, or is there more?
Well, I was doing research last night an allot of people on other forms are saying vvt's at a cold start it goes -14.97 in Ignition correction
When I am pushing the gas it goes -11.32. When I exit the freeway and stop at a light it drops down to 500 rpm way below idle 1k is idle is needed. I can hear the missfires in my exhaust but no check engine light is Present.
Knock goes 20 then back up to 31 plays allot but goes lower the hotter the motor gets. Other then that nothing much else
 

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Well, I was doing research last night an allot of people on other forms are saying vvt's at a cold start it goes -14.97 in Ignition correction
When I am pushing the gas it goes -11.32. When I exit the freeway and stop at a light it drops down to 500 rpm way below idle 1k is idle is needed. I can hear the missfires in my exhaust but no check engine light is Present.
Knock goes 20 then back up to 31 plays allot but goes lower the hotter the motor gets. Other then that nothing much else
Are you in the US or somewhere else?
 

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Well, I was doing research last night an allot of people on other forms are saying vvt's at a cold start it goes -14.97 in Ignition correction
When I am pushing the gas it goes -11.32. When I exit the freeway and stop at a light it drops down to 500 rpm way below idle 1k is idle is needed. I can hear the missfires in my exhaust but no check engine light is Present.
Knock goes 20 then back up to 31 plays allot but goes lower the hotter the motor gets. Other then that nothing much else
Which tune did you use to make the most recent data logs you sent?
 
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