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Lol I just realized my phone put sage heheh
Sorry stage 2 ots from Ryan. Did you look at the data logs I am going to change the vvts tonight. I think it's due for a ecu upgrade.
OTS means off-the-shelf, which generally means Cobb's generic tunes (not specific to your car). Ryan is a pro-tuner. Did you pay him for an e-tune, which involves him sending you different tunes and you sending him data logs, so he can make adjustments if needed? It seems odd that he'd just send you an OTS tune.
 

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Lol I just realized my phone put sage heheh
Sorry stage 2 ots from Ryan. Did you look at the data logs I am going to change the vvts tonight. I think it's due for a ecu upgrade.
I looked at data logs 11 & 12. I still need to look at 13. Since your problems began, have you tried going back to the stock tune, to see if it would run better? You said you're using NGK
6510 spark plugs. Are they one heat range colder than the stock plugs? What spark plug gap are you running?
 

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OTS means off-the-shelf, which generally means Cobb's generic tunes (not specific to your car). Ryan is a pro-tuner. Did you pay him for an e-tune, which involves him sending you different tunes and you sending him data logs, so he can make adjustments if needed? It seems odd that he'd just send you an OTS tune.
No pro tune wish had the money for that right now, well I did but my car started acting up, I only bought the bubbler tune from Ryan sent him 2 data logs for him to make sure it was working good and he gave me the okay.
 

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I looked at data logs 11 & 12. I still need to look at 13. Since your problems began, have you tried going back to the stock tune, to see if it would run better? You said you're using NGK
6510 spark plugs. Are they one heat range colder than the stock plugs? What spark plug gap are you running?
Yes sir,
I have went back to stock tune but you can feel and hear the missfires but no check engine light still, I am new to tuning but not cars if you can tell I think learning a thing or two might help me. 6510 gapped at .26 Thousands. They are colder plugs
 

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Yes sir,
I have went back to stock tune but you can feel and hear the missfires but no check engine light still, I am new to tuning but not cars if you can tell I think learning a thing or two might help me. 6510 gapped at .26 Thousands. They are colder plugs
You don't need colder than stock spark plugs, on a 91 octane tune, unless your road racing. The cold plugs will only wear out faster and foul easier. NGK makes great spark plugs, in general, but I've seen a few people have misfires with them, when running colder plugs. The stock Motorcraft plugs do really well, gapped at .028, for 91/93 octane tunes, at stages 1, 2, or 3, as long as you're not road racing.

You previously mentioned your car idling below 1,000 RPM. That's normal.
When fully warmed up, mine idles smoothly at 700 RPM. I can turn on the headlights, A/C, blower motor on high, rear defroster, and put it in drive, and it takes a few seconds to adjust and stabilize back at a smooth 700 RPM.
Your data log 11 was all idling, and it appeared very stable and smooth at 700 RPM. The AFR was a little lean, at
14.55 -14.85. At idle, this is OK, as long as you're not getting a lean misfire. If you're getting lean misfire, your engine will produce too much HC, and you won't pass emissions testing, and of course, it won't idle smoothly. What does the AFR gauge, on your instrument panel, indicate, when fully warmed up at idle?

Under what circumstances is your car misfiring? Is it at idle, during part throttle acceleration, at WOT, or during cruise?
 

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You don't need colder than stock spark plugs, on a 91 octane tune, unless your road racing. The cold plugs will only wear out faster and foul easier. NGK makes great spark plugs, in general, but I've seen a few people have misfires with them, when running colder plugs. The stock Motorcraft plugs do really well, gapped at .028, for 91/93 octane tunes, at stages 1, 2, or 3, as long as you're not road racing.

You previously mentioned your car idling below 1,000 RPM. That's normal.
When fully warmed up, mine idles smoothly at 700 RPM. I can turn on the headlights, A/C, blower motor on high, rear defroster, and put it in drive, and it takes a few seconds to adjust and stabilize back at a smooth 700 RPM.
Your data log 11 was all idling, and it appeared very stable and smooth at 700 RPM. The AFR was a little lean, at
14.55 -14.85. At idle, this is OK, as long as you're not getting a lean misfire. If you're getting lean misfire, your engine will produce too much HC, and you won't pass emissions testing, and of course, it won't idle smoothly. What does the AFR gauge, on your instrument panel, indicate, when fully warmed up at idle?

Under what circumstances is your car misfiring? Is it at idle, during part throttle acceleration, at WOT, or during
I'll take another pic for the Is Ignition correction and the two knocks that I am Is monitoring and show you what they are reading
 

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I'll take another pic for the Is Ignition correction and the two knocks that I am Is monitoring and show you what they are reading
Is your engine misfiring or running roughly, if so when? The ECU on our engine is always making ignition corrections. That, in itself, doesn't mean it's misfiring or running roughly.
I think your concerned about negative ignition corrections, and I would be too, if they're frequent and much greater than 2°. Does your engine still drop to 500 RPM and want to stall, when coming to a stop? I looked over logs 11 & 12, and it seemed to idle smoothly at 700 RPM, and when you rapidly got off the throttle and slowed down, the idle never dropped below 700.
 

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Is your engine misfiring or running roughly, if so when? The ECU on our engine is always making ignition corrections. That, in itself, doesn't mean it's misfiring or running roughly.
I think your concerned about negative ignition corrections, and I would be too, if they're frequent and much greater than 2°. Does your engine still drop to 500 RPM and want to stall, when coming to a stop? I looked over logs 11 & 12, and it seemed to idle smoothly at 700 RPM, and when you rapidly got off the throttle and slowed down, the idle never dropped below 700.
I mean it would be easyer to post a video of what I am seeing. But here is two pics for now lol.
 

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-18 correction!!!!!!. That needs looking at. I'm betting one of the O2 sensors fould having the bubble tune in it and it's pulling timing
 
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