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A NEW LEVEL OF STYLING

If you're craving a lightweight, flow formed, race inspired set of wheels to trick out your S197 or S550 Mustang -- Look no further! SVE now offers our iconic GT350 Style wheel in both a 19x10" & 19x11" offset for a powerful, wider stance on your 2005-17 Mustang! Get your set in gloss black or gloss graphite finish + Fast, Free Shipping to your door @ LMR.com!

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2015-17 SVE Gloss Graphite GT350 Style Wheel Kit - 19x10/11

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2015-17 SVE Gloss Black GT350 Style Wheel & NT05 Tire Kit - 19x10/11

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Thoes are some super nice wheels!! very cool the extra wide with for the back ther offering ..sve steeing wheel that just came out looks really nice as well.
 

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Hey has anyone had issues with aftermarket lugnuts with the stock performance pack wheels ? reason I ask ..I'm very ocd and always do preventive maintenance . and check my torque specs ..well they keep getting loose ..and yesterday driving through the rain hydroplaning I lost lug.
 

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When they released the square set 10" all around a was close to pulling the trigger. 10" and 11" is even better!
I'm going with the 11's all the way around. I don't like staggered setups, especially on the track car. I am not a fan of them on the street car either, but definitely not on the track ride.

Thats a great find. Not a bad price for the whole package as well!
Unfortunately all the packages are staggered. :(

Hey has anyone had issues with aftermarket lugnuts with the stock performance pack wheels ? reason I ask ..I'm very ocd and always do preventive maintenance . and check my torque specs ..well they keep getting loose ..and yesterday driving through the rain hydroplaning I lost lug.
I have gorillas, and have had no issues with them loosening up. They don't stay on long, but the splines with my LMR wheels are freakishly stable as well. With all the track events, I change/torque mine several times a month. I'm not so good with my daily driver tho. :eek:
 

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Hey has anyone had issues with aftermarket lugnuts with the stock performance pack wheels ? reason I ask ..I'm very ocd and always do preventive maintenance . and check my torque specs ..well they keep getting loose ..and yesterday driving through the rain hydroplaning I lost lug.
It's my understanding that the Gorilla lug nuts, available from CJ Pony Parts are the perfect match for the factory wheels. I have the 19" PP wheels on my car and just ordered a set of these lug nuts from CJ. They're better than the stock lug nuts, in that they're a one-piece, all-chrome nut. The factory nuts are a steel nut covered with a thin, chrome shell. One thing to be aware of is the torque number for these nuts. I believe the factory manual recommends 105 lb./ft. of torque. That's a lot of torque, but these lug studs are 14MM, not the usual 12MM; so they can handle that kind of torque. And yes...you should always torque your lug nuts to spec. In the shop that I work in, we torque all lugs on EVERY car we service. We also lubricate the threads of the lugs with copper anti-seize compound. It ensures that you'll never have to face a broken stud situation.
 

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Yes I want to make sure they have the large seat like the the factory Lugnuts.. the aftermarket ones I had, had a smaller seat and I think that was a lot to do with the problem no matter how how much torque I put on them and I actually did about a 100lb on the tourq all the way around..thoes cheap tin covers don't accept 12 point sockets very well on the stock lugs .
 

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It's my understanding that the Gorilla lug nuts, available from CJ Pony Parts are the perfect match for the factory wheels. I have the 19" PP wheels on my car and just ordered a set of these lug nuts from CJ. They're better than the stock lug nuts, in that they're a one-piece, all-chrome nut. The factory nuts are a steel nut covered with a thin, chrome shell. One thing to be aware of is the torque number for these nuts. I believe the factory manual recommends 105 lb./ft. of torque. That's a lot of torque, but these lug studs are 14MM, not the usual 12MM; so they can handle that kind of torque. And yes...you should always torque your lug nuts to spec. In the shop that I work in, we torque all lugs on EVERY car we service. We also lubricate the threads of the lugs with copper anti-seize compound. It ensures that you'll never have to face a broken stud situation.
Details on that "copper anti-seize compound" please. I have other vehicles that would benefit from this technology. :D
 

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Torque Spec is not 100~105 for 2015-up Stangs ... it is actually 150 FT-LBS

S197 and earlier with the 1/2-20 lugs were around 100 FT-LBS (think actual spec was something like 85-105 ft-lbs).

Those are really nice looking wheels at a decent price though !!

Doug
 

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It's my understanding that the Gorilla lug nuts, available from CJ Pony Parts are the perfect match for the factory wheels. I have the 19" PP wheels on my car and just ordered a set of these lug nuts from CJ. They're better than the stock lug nuts, in that they're a one-piece, all-chrome nut. The factory nuts are a steel nut covered with a thin, chrome shell. One thing to be aware of is the torque number for these nuts. I believe the factory manual recommends 105 lb./ft. of torque. That's a lot of torque, but these lug studs are 14MM, not the usual 12MM; so they can handle that kind of torque. And yes...you should always torque your lug nuts to spec. In the shop that I work in, we torque all lugs on EVERY car we service. We also lubricate the threads of the lugs with copper anti-seize compound. It ensures that you'll never have to face a broken stud situation.
I just ordered a set of the Gorilla lugs 25 of them for $54
 

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Details on that "copper anti-seize compound" please. I have other vehicles that would benefit from this technology. :D
Hello Jim,

I've been using anti-seize on all types of fasteners for over 30 years. It's extremely useful on lug nuts that see a lot of water (which most cars do). I brush a small amount on each lug. Tighten the nuts to normal specifications and you'll never have to deal with a broken or seized lug nut again. It's on every car I've ever owned. I also use it on spark plug threads, particularly on cars with aluminum heads. It assures that you will be able to remove the plugs after 60,000 miles of it being in a harsh environment. I also use it on oxygen sensors and exhaust system fasteners. These tend to corrode and seize all the time. It eliminates broken studs and lots of frustration. I also use it on E.G.R. system components. Tube fittings, etc. Practically any fastener that you want to be able to take apart again...can benefit from anti-seize. One point to make here is that, if a fastener is lubricated with anti-seize, it is not more likely to come loose, if properly torqued.

Anti-seize is made of either nickel or copper in a paste-like base. I prefer the copper, as it seems to work better with dissimilar metals. I got the jar pictured on Amazon for about $18. It's probably enough to last a lifetime. The cap has an applicator brush built into it, so it's super easy to use. Once you use this, you'll wonder why you haven't been...all these years.

Happy Holidays, my friend.

Regards,

Steve
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2016-12-24 15.37.33.jpg
 
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