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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Musical instrument Guitar accessory Musical instrument accessory String instrument accessory Guitar
Musical instrument Guitar accessory Musical instrument accessory String instrument accessory Guitar

Up for sale, didn't quite work out with all my other mods. Used about 2 weeks.
<OEM connections>
Seemed to work pretty good for what it is designed to do. I'll take a bennie for it.
Price is firm.
Located in NE TX.
PM for payment/shipping info.
 

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I'm using the same JLT so I'm curious why it's not working out, can you explain in more detail? The JLT is working great for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
🚬 Had a smoker after doing the downpipe install.
Went to the T+ UPR setup & no more issue.
Yes, it is a well made setup.
The learning curve continues.
 

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I was planning on buying the Ford performance catch can for incognito stuffs, but I would take this one off your hands for a good deal.

Would you do $80 shipped for a fellow frugal Texan 😁?
 

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🚬 Had a smoker after doing the downpipe install.
Went to the T+ UPR setup & no more issue.
Yes, it is a well made setup.
The learning curve continues.
Had a smoker? Maybe it's too early for me and my brain isn't on full power yet, but I don't understand how the JLT caused issues after a downpipe install? I also have a catted downpipe and didn't experience any issues. Anyway, glad it worked out for you.

One thing I noticed about the JLT is that it can fill up in 1k miles under certain conditions so it should be checked and emptied often. After installing the CFM valve cover breather the amount of blow-by reduced by more than half so I don't need to empty the JLT as often as pre-valve cover breather. I also noticed that a tune doubles the amount of blow-by vs. OEM tune in my configuration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Had a smoker? Maybe it's too early for me and my brain isn't on full power yet, but I don't understand how the JLT caused issues after a downpipe install?

Yes 🚬 Had to give it the nicoderm treatment via the Radium plate/UPR catch-can method.
Had to install the Radium Pcv plate and gut the pcv valve, then with the UPR catch can and its check valve assembly- no more smoking. This was a issue at idle on occasion, and it was noticeable. Evidently this can be a problem on some of our vehicles when getting into mods. It's not the JLT can that caused the concern.
'One thing leads to another'.
Exactly why is something that a resident expert here on the forum would have to explain.
In a nutshell- boost gets past the connector right after the TB and then past the PCV which causes the smoke out the tailpipe.
It took some homework to resolve the concern and fortunately there was Tune+ Inc. that had the answer. Adam B. was helpful and put up with my dumb questions to get me sorted out.
 

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@Jimbo is that a no on the negotiation?
I had somebody PM me with a offer, so its
'to the highest bidder'
🤷‍♂️hurry-up-&-wait.
[/QUOTE]
Okay -- sounds like they had a stronger offer. If that falls through, I'll help you out and take it off your hands :). If not, nbd :) get the best deal you can, for sure.
 

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Hey there, sent you a p/m.
Still available.
Thanks for thinking of me, but I'm leaning towards the Ford Performance one. I have a suspicion it will be easier to run incognito at the dealership service jobs.

If you were really just looking to get rid of it, I would buy it for 80 bucks shipped. I'm in Austin TX, so shipping should be pretty light.
 

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hey jimbo,
i was just reading your post.so your car was smoking because it was burning oil when you installed your downpipe from too much crankcase pressure?? Can you explain like I'm a complete noob(or like I'm a 4 year old,lol)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I only noticed the concern at C/T idle.
There is a reasonably good explanation of the issue on the Tune+ website associated with the fix that's probably better then I can explain.
Seems to occur when getting into mods, such as the aftermarket downpipe.
How the factory keeps it from happening with the OEM setup is something a well versed tech would have to explain.
While I certianly understand forced induction theory, I'm still learning plenty about the finer points of it.
 

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I only noticed the concern at C/T idle.
There is a reasonably good explanation of the issue on the Tune+ website associated with the fix that's probably better then I can explain.
Seems to occur when getting into mods, such as the aftermarket downpipe.
How the factory keeps it from happening with the OEM setup is something a well versed tech would have to explain.
While I certianly understand forced induction theory, I'm still learning plenty about the finer points of it.
(y)
 

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I just installed a JLT catch can on my 2020 eco but from reading here on the forum I decided to install a UPR 100 psi check valve in the intake hose about 2 inches from the intake quick connecter to prevent boost pressure from being forced past the poor quality factory PCV valve and into the crankcase. I did not gut the factory PCV valve either since with the UPR check valve it is just along for the ride and I do not feel any benefit by gutting it. Possibly on a full catted downpipe system it may be necessary but mine is still stock DP.

I have only driven it about 10 miles since the install so still to early to tell any negatives from it but will be checking can every 1000 miles at first till I get a feel for how fast it is being filled. No CELs as of yet either.

I got the JLT used for a bennie and with the UPR check valve I have less than a new JLT would cost new.

I just feel the UPR dual catch can system is overkill except on vehicles with DPs and bigger turbos that greatly increase boost pressures and blowby past the rings. Just my IMO.

BD
 

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I just installed a JLT catch can on my 2020 eco but from reading here on the forum I decided to install a UPR 100 psi check valve in the intake hose about 2 inches from the intake quick connecter to prevent boost pressure from being forced past the poor quality factory PCV valve and into the crankcase. I did not gut the factory PCV valve either since with the UPR check valve it is just along for the ride and I do not feel any benefit by gutting it. Possibly on a full catted downpipe system it may be necessary but mine is still stock DP.

I have only driven it about 10 miles since the install so still to early to tell any negatives from it but will be checking can every 1000 miles at first till I get a feel for how fast it is being filled. No CELs as of yet either.

I got the JLT used for a bennie and with the UPR check valve I have less than a new JLT would cost new.

I just feel the UPR dual catch can system is overkill except on vehicles with DPs and bigger turbos that greatly increase boost pressures and blowby past the rings. Just my IMO.

BD
What's up brother? What size I.D. UPR Check valve did you get? I have the JLT 3.0 as well.
 

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It is a 1/2" check valve. Here is the part number I ordered.

UPR Billet Check Valve 0-100psi Operating Pressure (uprproducts.com) It is the 5044-13 part number valve in the drop down. Shows it being a 14mm/1/2'hose barb size.

I cut the intake side hose about 2" from the intake quick connect and installed with arrow pointing toward intake and put hose clamps on it to insure it would not come out of hose. It is hidden behind intake so you do not see it but it is much better than the stock PCV at preventing boost from blowing past the PCV and into the crankcase.

Have a great day.

BD
 

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It is a 1/2" check valve. Here is the part number I ordered.

UPR Billet Check Valve 0-100psi Operating Pressure (uprproducts.com) It is the 5044-13 part number valve in the drop down. Shows it being a 14mm/1/2'hose barb size.

I cut the intake side hose about 2" from the intake quick connect and installed with arrow pointing toward intake put hose clamps on it to insure it would not come out of hose. It is hidden behind intake so you do not see it but it is much better than the stock PCV at preventing boost from blowing past the PCV and into the crankcase.

Have a great day.

BD
Thanks Mike, I'm also going to be replacing my evap purge solenoid. Every time I fill up my idle is very rough and almost wants to stall. I read that this is the issue. So hopefully it all works out. Ordering them today. Thanks brother.
 

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Thanks Mike, I'm also going to be replacing my evap purge solenoid. Every time I fill up my idle is very rough and almost wants to stall. I read that this is the issue. So hopefully it all works out. Ordering them today. Thanks brother.
Save your money. Swapping your purge valve will not remedy that.
 
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