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Hey fellow ecoboosters’, It’ll be nice to meet everyone. I go by lil wood. I’m 19 years old. Big gamer/computer guy, herb patient and enthusiast. I got a 2015 Dodge Dart rallye automatic, in 2016 as my first vehicle. I had the blessing to be given this car half paid off from my older brother. At the time I just needed a way to get from A to B. I was never into cars beyond a average person. Slowly and surely, I developed the love for driving and speed >:] I seen fellows and foes get sporty vehicles and project cars, which drove me to wanting a speed machine. I had my dart for 2 years until I was 18. I went to the casino one night and won $13,000! I don’t regret this but, Ignorantly my mind was set on purchasing a new car. This somewhat shameful disclosure, is the fact; that I do not know how to drive Manual. I know how one should drive manual and I know how to works, but I’ve never been taught or had the opportunity to learn myself due to no manual car. Moral of the story, I found my 2016 rapid red, mustang eco boost premium package for $16,500 with 61k miles. I put nearly $10k cash down. Although I could’ve got a logical, cost-saving, boring car. OR EVEN a “fast” used car to the right informed person. I laid out my options and did research. For the condition the EcoBoost was in. It seemed like the only option my heart could follow. While test driving my car the check engine light appeared, and the sales man said it should be a error or a simple issue. Told me to give them 2 weeks to inspect, and the car would be ready for me to drive off the lot. Once the day came, I signed the pre owned as is contract, and continued to take my mustang home. Later, the day after, I decided to let the gas run near bone dry, so I could put premium in it. I did so, after I filled the gas tank full, I got in to start my mustang. Once I pressed the push to start, it start to click rapidly. I manually pumped my gas pedal while starting my car and it eventually it started in a bad grumbled, the check engine light went on and it wanted to die if I did not continue to give it gas. I have to throw my car into drive while revving in park up to 2/3k rpms. I can feel the ware on my transmission/engine. If I do not rev/give it gas it dies. After I do continuously give it gas, and drive for a couple minutes, everything is fine and it can idol fine without a issue. I ran the check engine code (at the time of posting this I do not recall the specific code) which I googled, and it said “fuel injector seal broken”. Sadly to say I have ignored this issue for the past 2/3 months. I finally got around and looked it up, the first few things are about a fuel system recall. Then I also seen how rapid clicking during starting could be low battery voltage. I wanted to hear from other boost owners, and/or someone who knows what I’m dealing with, without paying a overpriced lucrative mechanic. (That includes ford dealerships) [not all but most take advantage, of unknowledgeable car owners]. I appreciate everyone who has made it this far in my post. And sorry for the introduction/problem thread! However my problem is the reason I’m even here haha!
 

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Welcome to the forum!

Let me see if I have this right... You bought a two year old used Ecoboost Mustang and it had a check engine light on when you decided to get it. The dealer apparently cleared the error, but you don't mention what it was they did to fix it. Then you started having trouble with start up after filling the tank. It has a check engine light on (again) that you have ignored for a while, but the symptoms continue.

I'm going to guess you need the evaporative purge valve replaced, but if the code really is something about a fuel injector seal, your car has worse trouble than that.

Please take the car to a qualified independent mechanic. No amount of internet diagnostics here are going to fix the car.
 

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Definitely address the low voltage problem. The OEM battery life seems to range from 1 year to 3 years for most. Low voltage will cause a host of issues, including symptoms caused by inadequate operating voltage to the PCM. Once that is squared away, you should be able to see what real problems remain. Considering the car is a big unknown to you, I highly recommend getting it in to either a dealer or reputable shop for a diagnostic, which will be money well spent.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks
Definitely address the low voltage problem. The OEM battery life seems to range from 1 year to 3 years for most. Low voltage will cause a host of issues, including symptoms caused by inadequate operating voltage to the PCM. Once that is squared away, you should be able to see what real problems remain. Considering the car is a big unknown to you, I highly recommend getting it in to either a dealer or reputable shop for a diagnostic, which will be money well spent.
man I appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Welcome to the forum!

Let me see if I have this right... You bought a two year old used Ecoboost Mustang and it had a check engine light on when you decided to get it. The dealer apparently cleared the error, but you don't mention what it was they did to fix it. Then you started having trouble with start up after filling the tank. It has a check engine light on (again) that you have ignored for a while, but the symptoms continue.

I'm going to guess you need the evaporative purge valve replaced, but if the code really is something about a fuel injector seal, your car has worse trouble than that.

Please take the car to a qualified independent mechanic. No amount of internet diagnostics here are going to fix the car.
Thank you. I was well aware no amount of research or diagnostics weren’t going to fix the car, I just wanted to hear from real owners first before I hear whatever, said mechanic or shop will tell me once I take it in:
 
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