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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2018 Ecoboost performance MT and it is my daily driver. I want a boost in power and I have heard many great things about the cobb V3 accessport. I was planning on going stage 1 with a CVF intercooler upgrade…but everything else will be left stock. I still have a little time left on a warranty and I understand that this will likely void the warranty so my concern is with the reliability of the tune. Will this be good to daily drive with?
 

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My daily 2017 MT has been custom tuned since approx 25,000km and is now close to 100000km . I've never regreted a minute of the tune and other mods. The car isn't going anywhere!
 

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Do you recommend I get a a custom tune or would a stage1 ots tune do the trick?
Cobb stage 1 is drop in high flow air filter like a k&n or a Green filter and intercooler. It’s entirely up to you on what tune to go with. If you go with a custom tune however then I would do all your upgrades before starting the tuning process or you will have to pay for a retune if you didn’t purchase a lifelong tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cobb stage 1 is drop in high flow air filter like a k&n or a Green filter and intercooler. It’s entirely up to you on what tune to go with. If you go with a custom tune however then I would do all your upgrades before starting the tuning process or you will have to pay for a retune if you didn’t purchase a lifelong tune.
Thats great to know thank you!
 

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If you put in a high flow filter AND an intercooler, you can use Cobb Stage 2 if you like. Stage 1 is a HUGE improvement in responsiveness and overall drivability over stock and is the "safe option", all you need is high flow filter. Stage 2 will add quite a bit of power with very limited risk, but more power is always more risk, although it's limited in my opinion.

Since you asked about Stage 1 and asked if you should get a custom tune and also mentioned daily driver, I'm assuming that you are concerned with reliability. So here's advice on that: The single biggest risk to your engine with a MT is YOU, tune or no tune. DO NOT LUG the engine and you will be ok and DO NOT ADD a lot of throttle from low RPM. Keep the revs up and roll into the throttle. Ecoboom, if there is a such a thing, is caused by low speed pre ignition and that's usually caused by an engine being lugged and then a lot of throttle being added abruptly. That's a nearly universal assessment. Of course, engines have blown for other reasons, just getting the most common cause out of the way and the things you can do to virtually eliminate the issue. Keep in mind that engines of all types fail on occasion and with the 2.3 Ecoboost on the upgraded motor that is in the 2018 models forward, there really is no hard evidence that the ecoboom thing is even real. As in there is no proof that there are flaws or that the engine fails at a rate any different than anything else on the road. Do they fail? Of course they do, but with some digging, in nearly all cases the failures happen to people who have tuned the engine with an extreme tune to squeeze all the power out they can, or and this is the most common cause, they ran a tune without the necessary parts that are required. Say a weekend boy racer with a high flow filter decided to run Stage 2 because "it couldn't hurt" to just try it out for an afternoon........Yeah, Don't do that. Do not run a tune without the required mods EVER.

Here is one way to go about it if you like: Get a Cobb device and a High Flow Filter. I run AFE PRO DRY 31-10255. It a dry filter, washable and has worked very well for me. I like it over oiled filters as it is much easier to maintain, and you do not have to worry about over oiling it which can screw up some sensors. To make it easy, I bought two filters, then I have no excuse not to be running a clean filter. Pull the dirty filter and immediately replace with the clean filter off the shelf, wash the dirty one and let it dry, box it up and put it on the shelf......no waiting for filter to dry excuse for not maintaining my car.

With Cobb AP and filter you are ready to run Stage 1 immediately. Try it out and see what you think. Run the gauges and monitor global ignition correction and if you see no frequent corrections, and you likely won't, then all is well and if you are happy with the improved performance, then you do not need to do anything else at all.

I would HIGLY recommend that you add an intercooler anyway even if you do not add a tune. The stock intercooler is very inadequate. Car will run better with more power and have a longer life due to lower charge temps if you add an aftermarket intercooler. Then you can stay at Stage 1 if you are happy or advance to Stage 2 and get more power. Again, monitor the Cobb gauges, particularly global ignition correction and if you see few or none ideally, you have no issues. There are other parameters to monitor, but ignition correction is about all we regular non-tuner people need to bother with. If it all works well, then you are done. You Can drive Stage 1 on a regular basis if you like for more relaxed, less risk and then flash to Stage 2 for more power anytime you like as frequently as you like or just drive Stage 2 all the time (with intercooler upgrade of course).

With the correct mods in place, the OTS tunes are safe, you can confirm that by monitory ignition correction. There is no need for a custom tune for reasons of safety. If you have one of the odd cars that show a bunch of ignition corrects, then there's an issue with your car, and you should not be running a tune at all, and a custom tune won't fix the issues. Also, given the limited mods you want to do, there is no reason for a custom tune as you will not have the mods to support a higher power output that a custom tune offers. Stage 2 OTS will do what you want to do and do it safely as OTS tunes are designed to be safe. It's not a popular opinion but it's the truth. The whole idea that a custom tune is safer is BS. With the correct mods to support, the OTS tune is just fine.

That's an overview of stuff I thought of that might help you and answer some common questions to help get you to where you are trying to go. You may know some or all of it already :cool: Main thing is to enjoy your car and make it what YOU want it to be and don't get caught up in hype. Have Fun!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you put in a high flow filter AND an intercooler, you can use Cobb Stage 2 if you like. Stage 1 is a HUGE improvement in responsiveness and overall drivability over stock and is the "safe option", all you need is high flow filter. Stage 2 will add quite a bit of power with very limited risk, but more power is always more risk, although it's limited in my opinion.

Since you asked about Stage 1 and asked if you should get a custom tune and also mentioned daily driver, I'm assuming that you are concerned with reliability. So here's advice on that: The single biggest risk to your engine with a MT is YOU, tune or no tune. DO NOT LUG the engine and you will be ok and DO NOT ADD a lot of throttle from low RPM. Keep the revs up and roll into the throttle. Ecoboom, if there is a such a thing, is caused by low speed pre ignition and that's usually caused by an engine being lugged and then a lot of throttle being added abruptly. That's a nearly universal assessment. Of course, engines have blown for other reasons, just getting the most common cause out of the way and the things you can do to virtually eliminate the issue. Keep in mind that engines of all types fail on occasion and with the 2.3 Ecoboost on the upgraded motor that is in the 2018 models forward, there really is no hard evidence that the ecoboom thing is even real. As in there is no proof that there are flaws or that the engine fails at a rate any different than anything else on the road. Do they fail? Of course they do, but with some digging, in nearly all cases the failures happen to people who have tuned the engine with an extreme tune to squeeze all the power out they can, or and this is the most common cause, they ran a tune without the necessary parts that are required. Say a weekend boy racer with a high flow filter decided to run Stage 2 because "it couldn't hurt" to just try it out for an afternoon........Yeah, Don't do that. Do not run a tune without the required mods EVER.

Here is one way to go about it if you like: Get a Cobb device and a High Flow Filter. I run AFE PRO DRY 31-10255. It a dry filter, washable and has worked very well for me. I like it over oiled filters as it is much easier to maintain, and you do not have to worry about over oiling it which can screw up some sensors. To make it easy, I bought two filters, then I have no excuse not to be running a clean filter. Pull the dirty filter and immediately replace with the clean filter off the shelf, wash the dirty one and let it dry, box it up and put it on the shelf......no waiting for filter to dry excuse for not maintaining my car.

With Cobb AP and filter you are ready to run Stage 1 immediately. Try it out and see what you think. Run the gauges and monitor global ignition correction and if you see no frequent corrections, and you likely won't, then all is well and if you are happy with the improved performance, then you do not need to do anything else at all.

I would HIGLY recommend that you add an intercooler anyway even if you do not add a tune. The stock intercooler is very inadequate. Car will run better with more power and have a longer life due to lower charge temps if you add an aftermarket intercooler. Then you can stay at Stage 1 if you are happy or advance to Stage 2 and get more power. Again, monitor the Cobb gauges, particularly global ignition correction and if you see few or none ideally, you have no issues. There are other parameters to monitor, but ignition correction is about all we regular non-tuner people need to bother with. If it all works well, then you are done. You Can drive Stage 1 on a regular basis if you like for more relaxed, less risk and then flash to Stage 2 for more power anytime you like as frequently as you like or just drive Stage 2 all the time (with intercooler upgrade of course).

With the correct mods in place, the OTS tunes are safe, you can confirm that by monitory ignition correction. There is no need for a custom tune for reasons of safety. If you have one of the odd cars that show a bunch of ignition corrects, then there's an issue with your car, and you should not be running a tune at all, and a custom tune won't fix the issues. Also, given the limited mods you want to do, there is no reason for a custom tune as you will not have the mods to support a higher power output that a custom tune offers. Stage 2 OTS will do what you want to do and do it safely as OTS tunes are designed to be safe. It's not a popular opinion but it's the truth. The whole idea that a custom tune is safer is BS. With the correct mods to support, the OTS tune is just fine.

That's an overview of stuff I thought of that might help you and answer some common questions to help get you to where you are trying to go. You may know some or all of it already :cool: Main thing is to enjoy your car and make it what YOU want it to be and don't get caught up in hype. Have Fun!!
This is all great information thank you very much. Thats really all I needed to know!
 

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This is all great information thank you very much. Thats really all I needed to know!
Hey, glad to help! There's a ton of knowledge here. Between the performance shop that did my car to the people here, I learned everything I know about the platform. So, I try to help others because I didn't know anything about the car before coming here and lots of people took time to help me out. Enjoy your car!
 

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I have a 2018 Ecoboost performance MT and it is my daily driver. I want a boost in power and I have heard many great things about the cobb V3 accessport. I was planning on going stage 1 with a CVF intercooler upgrade…but everything else will be left stock. I still have a little time left on a warranty and I understand that this will likely void the warranty so my concern is with the reliability of the tune. Will this be good to daily drive with?
You can do a lot without an ECU tune. You can run 91/93 octane fuel, add a performance air filter, a catch can, an aftermarket Intercooler, etc. Then, if you want more out of your car (and are willing to take more risk), get yourself a tuning device, and install an OTS tune, do some data logging, finish adding your bolt ons. Take your time, get to know your car before making any big changes!
Have fun, and be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you put in a high flow filter AND an intercooler, you can use Cobb Stage 2 if you like. Stage 1 is a HUGE improvement in responsiveness and overall drivability over stock and is the "safe option", all you need is high flow filter. Stage 2 will add quite a bit of power with very limited risk, but more power is always more risk, although it's limited in my opinion.

Since you asked about Stage 1 and asked if you should get a custom tune and also mentioned daily driver, I'm assuming that you are concerned with reliability. So here's advice on that: The single biggest risk to your engine with a MT is YOU, tune or no tune. DO NOT LUG the engine and you will be ok and DO NOT ADD a lot of throttle from low RPM. Keep the revs up and roll into the throttle. Ecoboom, if there is a such a thing, is caused by low speed pre ignition and that's usually caused by an engine being lugged and then a lot of throttle being added abruptly. That's a nearly universal assessment. Of course, engines have blown for other reasons, just getting the most common cause out of the way and the things you can do to virtually eliminate the issue. Keep in mind that engines of all types fail on occasion and with the 2.3 Ecoboost on the upgraded motor that is in the 2018 models forward, there really is no hard evidence that the ecoboom thing is even real. As in there is no proof that there are flaws or that the engine fails at a rate any different than anything else on the road. Do they fail? Of course they do, but with some digging, in nearly all cases the failures happen to people who have tuned the engine with an extreme tune to squeeze all the power out they can, or and this is the most common cause, they ran a tune without the necessary parts that are required. Say a weekend boy racer with a high flow filter decided to run Stage 2 because "it couldn't hurt" to just try it out for an afternoon........Yeah, Don't do that. Do not run a tune without the required mods EVER.

Here is one way to go about it if you like: Get a Cobb device and a High Flow Filter. I run AFE PRO DRY 31-10255. It a dry filter, washable and has worked very well for me. I like it over oiled filters as it is much easier to maintain, and you do not have to worry about over oiling it which can screw up some sensors. To make it easy, I bought two filters, then I have no excuse not to be running a clean filter. Pull the dirty filter and immediately replace with the clean filter off the shelf, wash the dirty one and let it dry, box it up and put it on the shelf......no waiting for filter to dry excuse for not maintaining my car.

With Cobb AP and filter you are ready to run Stage 1 immediately. Try it out and see what you think. Run the gauges and monitor global ignition correction and if you see no frequent corrections, and you likely won't, then all is well and if you are happy with the improved performance, then you do not need to do anything else at all.

I would HIGLY recommend that you add an intercooler anyway even if you do not add a tune. The stock intercooler is very inadequate. Car will run better with more power and have a longer life due to lower charge temps if you add an aftermarket intercooler. Then you can stay at Stage 1 if you are happy or advance to Stage 2 and get more power. Again, monitor the Cobb gauges, particularly global ignition correction and if you see few or none ideally, you have no issues. There are other parameters to monitor, but ignition correction is about all we regular non-tuner people need to bother with. If it all works well, then you are done. You Can drive Stage 1 on a regular basis if you like for more relaxed, less risk and then flash to Stage 2 for more power anytime you like as frequently as you like or just drive Stage 2 all the time (with intercooler upgrade of course).

With the correct mods in place, the OTS tunes are safe, you can confirm that by monitory ignition correction. There is no need for a custom tune for reasons of safety. If you have one of the odd cars that show a bunch of ignition corrects, then there's an issue with your car, and you should not be running a tune at all, and a custom tune won't fix the issues. Also, given the limited mods you want to do, there is no reason for a custom tune as you will not have the mods to support a higher power output that a custom tune offers. Stage 2 OTS will do what you want to do and do it safely as OTS tunes are designed to be safe. It's not a popular opinion but it's the truth. The whole idea that a custom tune is safer is BS. With the correct mods to support, the OTS tune is just fine.

That's an overview of stuff I thought of that might help you and answer some common questions to help get you to where you are trying to go. You may know some or all of it already :cool: Main thing is to enjoy your car and make it what YOU want it to be and don't get caught up in hype. Have Fun!!
I just thought of one more question…with the negative ignition correction what would most likely be the cause of that? Would it be tune related or just issues with my car? Also if I were to get said problems relating to the cars ignition correction fixed would I be able to run the tune again? Thank you
 

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I just thought of one more question…with the negative ignition correction what would most likely be the cause of that? Would it be tune related or just issues with my car? Also if I were to get said problems relating to the cars ignition correction fixed would I be able to run the tune again? Thank you
The corrections are made by the ECU to control knock. Knock could be caused by a variety of things, some mechanical such as worn parts as in bearings, bad parts like sensors, carbon build up in the engine, lean air/fuel mixture. So that's why it is a great idea to get a Cobb AP and do nothing at the start but use the monitoring functions to see if your car is running right, like @Coyote Chaser was saying. Then you know if you started with an issue and you can get it corrected before doing a bunch of things and making it worse and then not even knowing where to start. This platform will always have some knock as it's purposeful - the ECU will advance timing until the knock threshold is reached to produce optimum power and then back off the timing until it stops. So some knock and some timing corrections are normal. An OTS tune will work the same way in that it SHOULD advance timing and correct until there is no or minimal knock and timing corrections. Main culprit is bad gas as in you have a 93 tune loaded and the gas station is selling gas labelled as 93 but that is not 93 and they can and will do this on occasion. That's why buying your gas from a reputable place and monitoring the KOM number is something that you want to do. Older models used OAR, newer models use KOM and I believe that started with your model year 2018. The Cobb AP will have the correct one for your car. KOM of 1 is the best you can get and signifies the quality of the gas/octane matched what the ECU expects. So if you get less than 1 or a negative number you have bad gas in that it is not the octane expected and required for the tune. It ranges from +1 on the good end to -1 on the bad and if you have 0 to -1 you should stay off the throttle and out of high boost until you can get better fuel. At -1, I would gas up with known good fuel if possible and do it again at 1/2 tank until the number improves. I would not wait until I burnt the whole tank of bad gas. IF you stay off the throttle and out of boost, you'll always get into boost some unless you are crawling, but you can easily keep it to below 5# of boost if you are light on the throttle and then you should be ok. Here is why I say that and please note I am not recommending that you ever run the wrong octane gas in your car....if you have a 93 tune you must run 93, however I asked my tuner - what if I accidently get stuck somewhere with my 93 tune and there is no 93 gas and I do not have my AP to be able to flash to a lower octane tune. He stated - you should be able to find 91 pretty much anywhere so gas up on it and stay off the throttle etc all the stuff I said above. He assured me that the car could be driven in such circumstances by being careful as the ECU would limit timing to control the knock IF I was not into the throttle and at high boost.....drive it gently and no heavy throttle at all particularly from low RPM. Of course this is never recommended.

Hopefully I answered your question and didn't confuse you. People
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The corrections are made by the ECU to control knock. Knock could be caused by a variety of things, some mechanical such as worn parts as in bearings, bad parts like sensors, carbon build up in the engine, lean air/fuel mixture. So that's why it is a great idea to get a Cobb AP and do nothing at the start but use the monitoring functions to see if your car is running right, like @Coyote Chaser was saying. Then you know if you started with an issue and you can get it corrected before doing a bunch of things and making it worse and then not even knowing where to start. This platform will always have some knock as it's purposeful - the ECU will advance timing until the knock threshold is reached to produce optimum power and then back off the timing until it stops. So some knock and some timing corrections are normal. An OTS tune will work the same way in that it SHOULD advance timing and correct until there is no or minimal knock and timing corrections. Main culprit is bad gas as in you have a 93 tune loaded and the gas station is selling gas labelled as 93 but that is not 93 and they can and will do this on occasion. That's why buying your gas from a reputable place and monitoring the KOM number is something that you want to do. Older models used OAR, newer models use KOM and I believe that started with your model year 2018. The Cobb AP will have the correct one for your car. KOM of 1 is the best you can get and signifies the quality of the gas/octane matched what the ECU expects. So if you get less than 1 or a negative number you have bad gas in that it is not the octane expected and required for the tune. It ranges from +1 on the good end to -1 on the bad and if you have 0 to -1 you should stay off the throttle and out of high boost until you can get better fuel. At -1, I would gas up with known good fuel if possible and do it again at 1/2 tank until the number improves. I would not wait until I burnt the whole tank of bad gas. IF you stay off the throttle and out of boost, you'll always get into boost some unless you are crawling, but you can easily keep it to below 5# of boost if you are light on the throttle and then you should be ok. Here is why I say that and please note I am not recommending that you ever run the wrong octane gas in your car....if you have a 93 tune you must run 93, however I asked my tuner - what if I accidently get stuck somewhere with my 93 tune and there is no 93 gas and I do not have my AP to be able to flash to a lower octane tune. He stated - you should be able to find 91 pretty much anywhere so gas up on it and stay off the throttle etc all the stuff I said above. He assured me that the car could be driven in such circumstances by being careful as the ECU would limit timing to control the knock IF I was not into the throttle and at high boost.....drive it gently and no heavy throttle at all particularly from low RPM. Of course this is never recommended.

Hopefully I answered your question and didn't confuse you. People
Again, very helpful information. Thats all I can think of for now and Im feeling much more confident about getting the Cobb AP. Thank you again!
 

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I have a 2018 Ecoboost performance MT and it is my daily driver. I want a boost in power and I have heard many great things about the cobb V3 accessport. I was planning on going stage 1 with a CVF intercooler upgrade…but everything else will be left stock. I still have a little time left on a warranty and I understand that this will likely void the warranty so my concern is with the reliability of the tune. Will this be good to daily drive with?
I wouldn't run anything other than the stock tune, without upgrading the intercooler. The stock intercooler isn't adequate for a stock car. Regarding reliability, as others have said, get an accessport and monitor your stock tune, before going stage 1 or 2. Look for a KOM of 1 and not too many ignition corrections. Before tuning, add a high flow air filter, and make sure your stock Motorcraft spark plugs are gaped at .028". You don't need or want a colder heat range plug, for a 91 or 93 octane tune. Also, make sure your using a full synthetic oil that is API rated SP and TOP Tier gas. If everything looks good, add the stage 1 tune and monitor, before going to stage 2. For further safety, you could use a 91 octane tune and fuel with 93 octane gas. Also, every time you fill up with gas, monitor KOM and ignition corrections. If you seen any problems, flash back to the stock tune, until you run that gas out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I wouldn't run anything other than the stock tune, without upgrading the intercooler. The stock intercooler isn't adequate for a stock car. Regarding reliability, as others have said, get an accessport and monitor your stock tune, before going stage 1 or 2. Look for a KOM of 1 and not too many ignition corrections. Before tuning, add a high flow air filter, and make sure your stock Motorcraft spark plugs are gaped at .028". You don't need or want a colder heat range plug, for a 91 or 93 octane tune. Also, make sure your using a full synthetic oil that is API rated SP and TOP Tier gas. If everything looks good, add the stage 1 tune and monitor, before going to stage 2. For further safety, you could use a 91 octane tune and fuel with 93 octane gas. Also, every time you fill up with gas, monitor KOM and ignition corrections. If you seen any problems, flash back to the stock tune, until you run that gas out.
Thank you thats very helpful! 93 is very uncommon where Im at so what brands of gas should I fill up on to make sure Im getting 91 every time I fill up. Because Ive heard some cheap quality gas stations can be a whole octane level lower sometimes and thats concerning.
 

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Thank you thats very helpful! 93 is very uncommon where Im at so what brands of gas should I fill up on to make sure Im getting 91 every time I fill up. Because Ive heard some cheap quality gas stations can be a whole octane level lower sometimes and thats concerning.
Google Top Tier gas to see a list of stations that are Top Tier.
 

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I wouldn't run anything other than the stock tune, without upgrading the intercooler. The stock intercooler isn't adequate for a stock car. Regarding reliability, as others have said, get an accessport and monitor your stock tune, before going stage 1 or 2. Look for a KOM of 1 and not too many ignition corrections. Before tuning, add a high flow air filter, and make sure your stock Motorcraft spark plugs are gaped at .028". You don't need or want a colder heat range plug, for a 91 or 93 octane tune. Also, make sure your using a full synthetic oil that is API rated SP and TOP Tier gas. If everything looks good, add the stage 1 tune and monitor, before going to stage 2. For further safety, you could use a 91 octane tune and fuel with 93 octane gas. Also, every time you fill up with gas, monitor KOM and ignition corrections. If you seen any problems, flash back to the stock tune, until you run that gas out.
@jdsfly what plugs would you suggest that are currently available?

And you're saying stock range is good?
Like these?
 

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Thank you thats very helpful! 93 is very uncommon where Im at so what brands of gas should I fill up on to make sure Im getting 91 every time I fill up. Because Ive heard some cheap quality gas stations can be a whole octane level lower sometimes and thats concerning.
Very good advice from @jdsfly.

Another odd detail I thought of, always use ethanol blend gas. Do not use ethanol free. It is not better. It will cause ignition corrections and issues in your car as 93 lead free, for example, will perform as a rough equivalent to 89 and that's not good. Frequently, "experts" will appear and tell you things like octane is octane and if the power above wanted you to burn corn if your car then he'd have put dirt in the tank and blah blah blah and I'm an engineer and whatever. Just ignore them. Octane rating is octane rating in an NA car, but not the same in a boosted application. The computer depends upon the cooling effect of the ethanol to control knock. All that being said, I know this because I listen to the experts who own dynos and tune cars for a living AND I've see the results myself live and in person 🙄 Just something popped into my head 🙂
 
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