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I ran the Eibach Sportlines on my 2015 EB for 3 years with no issues. I’ve been running them on my 2018 for a year now and still no issues. I will say that like everything I do to my car, I research and plan to make sure that all the required supporting mods are done either before or during the upgrade I’m performing and that I understand what the job entails and what problems I could potentially encounter. It’s what I like to call mitigation planning. Plan for the worst, hope for the best. For example, when installing lowering springs, suspension geometry must be addressed. Camber will be affected so in the front will require either camber bolts or plates. The rear can be brought into spec if the drop isn’t too severe, otherwise adjustable camber arms could be required. Plan for being able to run it up for alignment when you’re done and make sure you already checked with the shop to ensure they can get your lowered car on the rack. Once you do the drop, the gap between the tire edge and body becomes much more apparent. Spacers...new wheels/tires...? What about the strut bump stops? Cut an inch or so off, or get shorter ones? You will also need to consider a bump steer kit and longer front ball joint studs. And the one most people miss, clock your bushings at all the suspension pivot points with bushings. I know it’s a lot to consider, but installing lowering springs is more than just slapping in springs and calling it a day. And I haven’t even touched on spring rates or linear vs progressive based on driving type.
 
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I recently swapped out my 1"drop, SR Performance lowering springs for 1"drop, Ford Performance Progressive lowering springs. I am running 275/35/19's in the front and 305/35/19's on the rear. The Ford Performance springs have "raised" my rear end and I now have a 1.5" to almost 2" gap from my tire to the fender well. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening?? I hate the rake that my car has; it looks horrible.
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