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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, i was racing with a 2019 SS Camaro, and during our first pull, i money shifted. Fortunately these car don't have much in higher RPMs, so i short shift most of the time. I think i was around 5500/6000 rpm, when i accidentally shift back to 2nd instead of 4th. I saw what looked like 8k rpm at least 馃槵. I put it back in 4 gear, and didn't think much of it, since my car drove fine, with no new noises ect. I ended up doing 2 more pulls with the Camaro. (I had the Camaro thru every gear, he just pulled up top over 140k kms, ever so slightly) Camaro had exhaust, headers and intake, for those wondering. Later that night, since i was on my RGA tune, and the track wasn't open, i figured i would use track apps 1/4 (on street tires 285s PP rims) Car drove fine, with minimal knock, nothin out of the ordinary. [email protected] i was able to achieve,for those wondering. The next day, my car misfired on start up, for around 30 sec, then ran fine. It always misfires on cold starts now, unless super hot outside. I can drive the car around perfectly fine, under normal conditions (thank god) since i need it to get to and from work (130kms round trip). I have been watching my cobb ap, like a hawk. I mostly watch ign.corr in all 4 cyl, plus knock count total and misfire monitor. Under normal driving it seems normal, not much knock, and ign.corr very little, and barely misfires under normal conditions. It starts misfiring more, the harder on throttle i am. It misfired close to 50 times on my way back home, driving kind of hard, was just watching my AP. I did a compression test cyl1-148, cy2-141, cyl3-141, cyl4-148. Leakdown, cyl1-5% cyl2-4% cyl3-3% cyl4-6% Both tests were performed pretty close to temp. I'm pretty sure cyl4 is the biggest culprit, which misfires on start up the most. I had noticed some oil residue on the spark plug threads, none on the others. We ended up putting a small camera in the cylinders to view, and i can clearly see, especially on 4, the outline of the valve, where it made contact. So i obviously have a floating valve, but it doesn't seem to be that bad. I never had anything like this happen, and really don't know what route to take?

I would appreciate some advice, maybe someone here had a similar issue, which they resolved.

It's my first ecoboost car. I have over revved my old RSX with a k20r, and saw close to 9500, with zero problems after, unfortunately Ford are quite a bit different lol. I'm sure i am just going to have to bite the bullitt, pull the engine, pull the head and examine, then go from there. Unless i can pull the head, while the engine is still in the car, to examine, then go from there? Again i appreciate any input, since i really don't know which route to go. Also sorry for really long post guys.
 

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Based on your compression and leak down numbers all your cylinders are healthy. I would not be considering pulling the head st this time. From the numbers can't imagine a valve hit the piston with enough force to do damage or you would see it the the compression and leak down numbers.

You mentioned oil on the plug threads of #4. Did you put in new plugs? If not i would start there. Maybe take the valve cover off next to see if there was any cam damage.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I appreciate the advice. This weekend i will change the plugs, and pull the valve cover to examine. I will update later
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thought I would update this. Turns out it was my head gasket all a long. I just replaced it myself with a Supertech one, and all is good now. Every time I would start my car cold it would misfire and only got worse, but when car was up to temp, it drove fine. Even my tuner never noticed anything wrong. I even did the compression test when hot, which checked out 馃し. I store my car over the winter and removed the cylinder head gasket and replaced it with the Supertech MLS head gasket and ARP head studs. I even had my cylinder head re surfaced, which they took of 0.003. Timing the engine was super easy to. I love this car so much, for all the room to work on it. I was literally standing in the engine bay most the time, resting my feet in the massive sway bar 馃お. My car has been idling for 30 min, with zero misfires, zero leaks ect. I I鈥檒l go to Ford this week and have them perform that misfire neutral procedure, then I鈥檓 good to go. This was the first time I ever did a head gasket and I鈥檓 super happy all went well. Cheers guys, also if anyone has any questions about anything feel free to ask.
 

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Thought I would update this. Turns out it was my head gasket all a long. I just replaced it myself with a Supertech one, and all is good now. Every time I would start my car cold it would misfire and only got worse, but when car was up to temp, it drove fine. Even my tuner never noticed anything wrong. I even did the compression test when hot, which checked out 馃し. I store my car over the winter and removed the cylinder head gasket and replaced it with the Supertech MLS head gasket and ARP head studs. I even had my cylinder head re surfaced, which they took of 0.003. Timing the engine was super easy to. I love this car so much, for all the room to work on it. I was literally standing in the engine bay most the time, resting my feet in the massive sway bar 馃お. My car has been idling for 30 min, with zero misfires, zero leaks ect. I I鈥檒l go to Ford this week and have them perform that misfire neutral procedure, then I鈥檓 good to go. This was the first time I ever did a head gasket and I鈥檓 super happy all went well. Cheers guys, also if anyone has any questions about anything feel free to ask.
Where did you buy the head gasket and studs? How much? Could you see where the old gasket failed? Where, which cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I bought both from MAP performance. I think the gasket was around $100 and the studs were around $160. Check out the pictures. The OEM gasket is garbage. When Ford updated the Focus RS gasket, they should of used that in the EB Mustang as well IMO. The new MLS Supertech gasket m, both sides were completely covered in the nitrile coating. My car is driving much better than it did from factory now.
40101
40102
40100
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good information!!
Have you taken it to the 1/4 mile track since you have put it back together??
No I have not yet. She is back down, do to excessive blow by in my intake manifold. I was running the provided 50 psi check valve to the manifold, and have ordered the new billet UPR 100psi check valve. I have been running this set up for a couple years now, tuned at 25psi. I鈥檓 hoping that fixes the issue, otherwise my catch can isn鈥檛 working properly. I also just installed the CVF race intercooler, but turns out to use it, I need specific couplers, and the stock mount couplers do not work properly. They guys at CVF gave me couplers for free, just had to pay for shipping 馃憤 I think I might pick up a clean side catch can as well. I鈥檓 also waiting on a reply from UPR, about the reason why they switched to 5/8 hose for the DVCC and all other catch cans, over the 1/2 like what I鈥檓 running. I believe they even changed the design on the catch can internals. So I might even be selling this set up now, and pick up their updated one. Depending on their response, I might just change the hose to 5/8, if it is a beneficial upgrade.
 

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I've heard about the 100 psi check valve, but haven't researched it yet. Was working on installing my catch can in a new location. But am having problems finding hoses and fittings! Any ideas as to where I can buy them??
PS: I got my charge pipe fittings from frozenboost.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Try Jegs or Summit for fittings. They have tons of different type of fittings. Radium also sells different types of fittings. When I bought my PCV baffle plate, I looked thru a bunch of different fittings before I selected the 2 I purchased.
 

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No I have not yet. She is back down, do to excessive blow by in my intake manifold. I was running the provided 50 psi check valve to the manifold, and have ordered the new billet UPR 100psi check valve. I have been running this set up for a couple years now, tuned at 25psi. I鈥檓 hoping that fixes the issue, otherwise my catch can isn鈥檛 working properly. I also just installed the CVF race intercooler, but turns out to use it, I need specific couplers, and the stock mount couplers do not work properly. They guys at CVF gave me couplers for free, just had to pay for shipping 馃憤 I think I might pick up a clean side catch can as well. I鈥檓 also waiting on a reply from UPR, about the reason why they switched to 5/8 hose for the DVCC and all other catch cans, over the 1/2 like what I鈥檓 running. I believe they even changed the design on the catch can internals. So I might even be selling this set up now, and pick up their updated one. Depending on their response, I might just change the hose to 5/8, if it is a beneficial upgrade.
Would love to hear that response from UPR. Thanks!
 

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Any special tools besides the cam holder and crank stopper to replace the head gasket.
I'm not sure what you're talking about. I was asking about UPR's response to their change in design of the catchcan per the OP.
 
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