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Discussion Starter #61
The Ford oval domed decal fits perfect on the airaid pipe
Yeah, I know. :D These have been sitting in my Amazon queue for months now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NIJ8K/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I'm a little apprehensive about adding the 'blue'. I've been looking all over for a 'black and silver' one that will fit, but have not been able to locate. Most of the 'customized' Ford logos are rather large aluminum pieces that are supposed to go onto the back of F150's.
 

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Just cleaned her up a bit this morning. Updated engine bay pic with the new Airraid intake & boostside catchcan. I've been wanting to do a coolant reservoir makeover with a manual hand pump and some paint I had bought, but have not had a chance to get around to that and a few other car projects in the past couple of months.

View attachment 30841
i did a little under the hood to.. I like the pony on the front of the engine cover where can I get one...tks vince
 

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Discussion Starter #63

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
You know, there are A LOT of quality individuals on this forum. Lots of people with different types of car expertise in a wide swath of areas, so that you can get a solid morsel of whatever aspect of the Eco Mustang (or other automotive questions) you are looking to digest. Not only that, but I have witnessed people offer up their homes & expertise to other forum members whenever they came across a job that may be particular 'daunting'. The bottom line is there are some good people here that have a passion about these Eco Mustangs, and we can all share in that. Yesterday, I was on the receiving end of some of that hospitable sharing.

Hooked up with @KewlWinter and took a ride up to his ShangriLa of Mustangs on the Space Coast of Florida. My daughter actually played soccer at a college near here, so I was very familiar with 'day trips' here.

I think I've mentioned before how I live in an urban apartment in Miami, so all the mods I've either done myself at my brother in law's home garage in the burbs, or outsourced to a professional garage for pay. I would much, much prefer to do as much as I can myself. Yeah, I know a couple of good garages, but I still feel that when it comes to 'mod' work, its best to know exactly what bolts have been turned, and what clips have been popped. The problem is you can't always do it yourself when you don't have a garage, and you don't have ALL the tools. Enter, @KewlWinter with some newly bought one inch drop Steeda Springs, the Steeda jounce bumpers, and Steeda camber bolts.

I'm not going to detail the procedure (plenty of videos that you can watch online that can narrate that better than I can). I will also apologize for no pics. Him and I, are kind of the same in that regard. We had a long task in front of us, and it never really occurred to us, to stop and pop a pic. The breaks we did do, were simply to pop a cold beer instead, to offset that 85 degree heat with 85% humidity. We were sweating like pigs! But that's okay, because kewl's shangrila has an industrial fan that he simply pops on, and all of a sudden, it feels actually nice in the garage.

You wanna know what else kewl has at his spot? An air pressurized impact drill that spools off his wall. OH MY LORD. Let me just say real quick, that this job took us a total of 6 hours start (jacking up car) to finish (final test drive), and that was mainly due to the lessons that kewl was giving me along the way. I can't even imagine how long it would have taken without that impact drill. It was like 'pop', 'pop', 'pop'....anytime something needed to come off. Now we didn't always have clearance for it (in particular, the caliper bolts in the rear were a pain and had to be done manually because you can't rotate the spindles like you can in the front), but I'm convinced as I wake up this morning feeling 'not too beat up', that the biggest reason for that was that impact gun.

You wanna know what's another great tool? The open ended ratchet. WOW. I don't have one of those, but I'm going to get a set after yesterday. We had several deep bolts, where we had to hold the nut to unscrew and that ratchet set was a world of difference, rather than trying to use crescents.

The biggest pains in the @$$ by far, were the removal of the two spline bolts from each front strut. You gotta have the right swing on it, and you gotta come like Thor, unafraid to f#ck something up, and WITHOUT actually f#cking something up, LOL. The rear's, in general, are a bit of a pain, because you have to lower the subframe...and yes, lowering the subframe is a bit of a tricky thing when not using a lift. Obviously you support the subframe, and you undo one side at a time, but its fairly key to try and not completely unthread the subframe bolts all the way, because it CAN be problematic to rethread when you're lying on your back with only inches of clearance. CAN...is the key word. And that's just not a bolt you wanna have that experience with. So you must be careful here. Our bolts did come all the way out, but again, thank's to kewl's steady hand, we got them back in. And then lastly, actually pulling the rear spring is a major pain. But again, kewl had a great lever and he knew the PERFECT spot to apply pressure to get enough clearance for the spring to juuuuust make it out.

I couldn't be happier now that the wheel well isn't as noticeable as before. And wow, the turns have gotten even tighter IMO. The VERY FIRST thing I noticed on a tight turn was how the nose dive was less. I'm really happy that I got this mod, put them in myself, and I couldn't be more indebted to @KewlWinter for the use of his garage and smorgasbord of super tools. He had so much more "kewl" sh!t, but these were all the tools that this job needed.
 

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It was great @gatornek having you over and doing the job with you. I was happy to provide the transfer of knowledge and expertise, teaching is its own reward. Sure we could have gotten done much sooner, but this way all I did was supervise and lend a helping hand where needed while you did most of the wrenching and gained experience. One day soon maybe we’ll hook up for a cruise or event for some fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Most Definitely!

Went out to Key Biscayne this morning, and tried to orient a pic similar to one I already have. Remember, its only a one inch drop. But it makes the wheel well much less noticeable IMO. It's also brought down my center of gravity on turns noticeably. I figure if I wanted to fill the wheel well further to my satisfaction, I'd go with 20's or 275 tires on my 19's. Dropping it any lower than an inch I just don't think is an option for me. The Mustang is built to allow for this drop without adversely affecting the geometry of the suspension. I love it. They are linear springs and nothing has changed in any type of noticeable negative way in the stiffness when I go over speed bumps or on bad roads.


Before
IMG_0827.jpg

After
IMG_0159.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
So, one weird thing that happened after my springs install, is that the lowering of one inch on my chassis, actually caused my hotside pipe hose (connected at the IC) to pinch against the frame. On the drive home from @KewlWinter 's spot, I noticed that anytime I got up around 20 psi, I would hear a high pitched squeal, like someone letting the air out of a balloon by pinching and spreading the inflate tube apart.

I looked under the hood and saw this:
IMG_0162.jpg


This all started with the fact that the coupler that came with the INjen pipes was the wrong fit. So I ended up using the OEM boot. Was working okay. Had to double clamp it as you see here, but its not ideal.

Here are are the couplers I cycled through. The smallest one is the one Injen sent me. Then, I tried a 3 inch Mishimoto, which didn't quite make it. So I ended up using a 6 inch HPS hump hose. Fit just fine.

IMG_0168.jpg


Here is the pipe with the OEM boot and OEM BOV

IMG_0171.jpg


While I was working on the hotside pipe, I happen to have ordered a new BOV adapter. Thought it was time for an upgrade. I had a credit at Summit, and this Turbosmart was the best aftermarket adapter they had. They didn't carry the GFB DV+.

Here is the Turbosmart.

IMG_0166.jpg


Lastly, I pulled the bumper off the front.

Let me just take a second to tell all the 2015-2017 people HOW MUCH EASIER and LESS STRESSFUL it is, to first pull the splash shield, AND BOTH wheel well shields from the bottom. ONce this is done, and the 7 mm wheel well bolts are out, the tabs literally pop out by themselves with just an upward movement on the bumper. Didn't break one clip. Not even close.

Here is the bumper out and the Velossa Tech put in. I also used a router to open up the honeycombs.
IMG_0172.jpg
IMG_0175.jpg


So lastly, this is what I need your guys' opinion on. Im not thrilled with the BOV sound. Heck, I'm not even sure if its working properly because this sure as anything sounds like turbo flutter or 'surge' to me. Please advise. I wasn't too happy with the flimsy electrical connection on the Turbosmart, and I am really concerned, if this is firing correctly, as it should.

Listen here. Let me know.

 

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Thats def not right. At least for turbosmarts sake it isnt. Have you considered venting the factory valve to atmosphere?
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Thats def not right. At least for turbosmarts sake it isnt. Have you considered venting the factory valve to atmosphere?
Not so sure that would solve my problem if its true that the valve is not retracting and firing as it should. Super tired right now. Probably first thing in the morning, might undo the valve and turn on the car. The valve should retract if I do that, right?

Wouldn't it blow a CEL if the PCM felt it couldn't 'contact' the BOV?
 

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I gotta be honest. Im not 100% sure how the ones that wire in work. I do know that a lot of tuners do not care for how they try to “trick” the ecu. You end up having to tune around them and its a pain. I know its basic but the valve should hold boost under load and release it when throttle is lifted. The ecoboost platforms will sometimes “lift” the valve at partial throttle for fuel consumption purposes. That action has been pretty heavily criticized especially when its vented. The fact that on our cars the valve is ecu controlled and not manually operated kinda makes it tough for a traditional aftermarket valve. Several companies have marketed a spacer type adapter to enhance sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #72 (Edited)
Update:

When I turned the car on this morning, there was the CEL for "BOV error" (in so many words). So yeah, out went the Turbosmart, and I didnt bother troubleshooting it or nothing. Put the OEM back in. CEL gone.

The electrical connection on this Turbosmart is both FLIMSY, and ill fitting (the clip). There is no nice 'click' like you hear on the OEM valve. So I'm pretty sure that the odds are that I didn't get a dud; and that it was that the connection was broken somehow, or not fully connected/seated. I can say the Turbosmart clip is "ill fitting" because the OEM goes in there SO SMOOTH....like butter. But nope, had to fight a bit with a [email protected] clip to make sure I was seating it correctly.

My thought was to maybe try the Turbosmart with the car electronics on, and unscrewed from the hotpipe to see if the valve would retract on electrical signal. I believe that's how it should work no? Once the car is on, it gives it a signal to pull back, and only drops that signal when you apply throttle, to close up for boost. That's my understanding anyway. But yeah, like I said, no matter. I don't even wanna mess around with that clip anymore and possibly break it on the carside, thus causing me much more severe problems.

Turbosmart is going back to Summit.

Steeda vertical links will be coming in their place.

I will have to get my GFB DV+ mod elsewhere.
 

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So, one weird thing that happened after my springs install, is that the lowering of one inch on my chassis, actually caused my hotside pipe hose (connected at the IC) to pinch against the frame. On the drive home from @KewlWinter 's spot, I noticed that anytime I got up around 20 psi, I would hear a high pitched squeal, like someone letting the air out of a balloon by pinching and spreading the inflate tube apart.

I looked under the hood and saw this:
View attachment 31307

This all started with the fact that the coupler that came with the INjen pipes was the wrong fit. So I ended up using the OEM boot. Was working okay. Had to double clamp it as you see here, but its not ideal.

Here are are the couplers I cycled through. The smallest one is the one Injen sent me. Then, I tried a 3 inch Mishimoto, which didn't quite make it. So I ended up using a 6 inch HPS hump hose. Fit just fine.

View attachment 31311

Here is the pipe with the OEM boot and OEM BOV

View attachment 31313

While I was working on the hotside pipe, I happen to have ordered a new BOV adapter. Thought it was time for an upgrade. I had a credit at Summit, and this Turbosmart was the best aftermarket adapter they had. They didn't carry the GFB DV+.

Here is the Turbosmart.

View attachment 31309

Lastly, I pulled the bumper off the front.

Let me just take a second to tell all the 2015-2017 people HOW MUCH EASIER and LESS STRESSFUL it is, to first pull the splash shield, AND BOTH wheel well shields from the bottom. ONce this is done, and the 7 mm wheel well bolts are out, the tabs literally pop out by themselves with just an upward movement on the bumper. Didn't break one clip. Not even close.

Here is the bumper out and the Velossa Tech put in. I also used a router to open up the honeycombs.
View attachment 31317 View attachment 31315

So lastly, this is what I need your guys' opinion on. Im not thrilled with the BOV sound. Heck, I'm not even sure if its working properly because this sure as anything sounds like turbo flutter or 'surge' to me. Please advise. I wasn't too happy with the flimsy electrical connection on the Turbosmart, and I am really concerned, if this is firing correctly, as it should.

Listen here. Let me know.
i put the DV+ and I'm happy with the smooth power flow,maybe in the future i'll go fast bits blowoff valve.. just a FYI I watch tune plus's site they seem to only use reliable and I'm sure tested parts....vp
 

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Discussion Starter #75
So I woke up early this morning and FINALLY put in a GFB DV+
IMG_0189.jpg


The valve is easy enough to take apart. It really is. Yes, you have to be careful in breaking the plastic trim piece when you use a pair of plyers to pull it off, but if you use a soft enough pair (like I have pictured), and don't apply crushing grip force on it, you'll be fine, and the plastic remains in tact, in case you ever want to put it back together and resell the GFB

IMG_0192.jpg


And Im glad that with my Injen Pipes & AirRaid, it DOES seem that I have enough space to add a BLOW OFF spacer if I ever wanted to. Might just have to find a tad bit longer allen bolts. I wonder if anyone has ever tried that?

Also, please take a good look at that clip. Its an OEM FIT that clips nicely on and off the valve. This was not the experience with the Turbosmart clip. In my opinon that electronic Turbosmart that I have pictured in a previous post, should be stayed away from.
IMG_0194.jpg
IMG_0195.jpg


I took it out for a test drive, and the best part was there was NO FLUTTER NOISE, so I guess its working just fine. In fact, there was no noise at all (which was different from the chirped out flutter I was hearing when the TS wasn't releasing pressure correctly) as it should be, because my recirculation tube is in effect, PLUS I have a sealed AirRaid. So, no noise, plus an immediate dump of boost into straight vaccuum on the gauge when I release from a WOT.

I'm happy. I like it. The boost response definitely felt different on the WOT. Not sure ifs placebo effect or what, but I'm sure I'll keep an eye out for the subtle differences as I drive it. Besides, like I said, I might space it out one day to hear that BLOW OFF sound. idk. lets see.

Thumbs way up for GFB. Big turd for Turbosmart.
 

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So I woke up early this morning and FINALLY put in a GFB DV+
View attachment 31425

The valve is easy enough to take apart. It really is. Yes, you have to be careful in breaking the plastic trim piece when you use a pair of plyers to pull it off, but if you use a soft enough pair (like I have pictured), and don't apply crushing grip force on it, you'll be fine, and the plastic remains in tact, in case you ever want to put it back together and resell the GFB

View attachment 31423

And Im glad that with my Injen Pipes & AirRaid, it DOES seem that I have enough space to add a BLOW OFF spacer if I ever wanted to. Might just have to find a tad bit longer allen bolts. I wonder if anyone has ever tried that?

Also, please take a good look at that clip. Its an OEM FIT that clips nicely on and off the valve. This was not the experience with the Turbosmart clip. In my opinon that electronic Turbosmart that I have pictured in a previous post, should be stayed away from.
View attachment 31419 View attachment 31415

I took it out for a test drive, and the best part was there was NO FLUTTER NOISE, so I guess its working just fine. In fact, there was no noise at all (which was different from the chirped out flutter I was hearing when the TS wasn't releasing pressure correctly) as it should be, because my recirculation tube is in effect, PLUS I have a sealed AirRaid. So, no noise, plus an immediate dump of boost into straight vaccuum on the gauge when I release from a WOT.

I'm happy. I like it. The boost response definitely felt different on the WOT. Not sure ifs placebo effect or what, but I'm sure I'll keep an eye out for the subtle differences as I drive it. Besides, like I said, I might space it out one day to hear that BLOW OFF sound. idk. lets see.

Thumbs way up for GFB. Big turd for Turbosmart.
Good to hear. Remember, you could just remove the recirc. tube and cap the intake for the same blow off effect. Honestly, I'm not sure I'm loving my DV+. Don't get me wrong, it definitely has made an improvement. However, I got it mainly to get rid of the cruising hiss noise, and I still get it once in a while. It's rare, but it happens. Mainly up a slight incline at low boost pressure. Maybe I'm just being picky, but it still irritates me. Maybe I need to break it apart and throw a touch more oil at the plunger.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
However, I got it mainly to get rid of the cruising hiss noise, and I still get it once in a while.
I still know not of this 'hissing" noise that keeps being described. I'm sure it has to do with my 'closed up' setup that really doesn't allow me to hear much. Could you describe exactly what you think might be happening? Again, my understanding of the Ecoboost valve function is that its "open" with the car on and "actuates" to a close, when you throttle the car. If you get off the throttle, then the valve will open again, thus giving a chance for excess pressure to vent or recirculate. I guess the key is WHEN is the ECU actually commanding the valve to open, as in:

How much "throttle reduction" is it looking for in order to "open" the valve? I've heard bits & pieces (I think from @ecostang19 ) that the ECU on our ECoboosts do this on the slightest bit of throttle reduction.

A "hiss" description is different from a "blow off" description, so this phenomenon is made more to sound as (either) some sort of 'partial' solenoid opening (which we know is impossible...its either fully open or fully closed) OR some bad seal on the hotpipe to the valve when the valve is actuated closed.

Is my reasoning correct?

Having now had a chance to put the GFB DV+ together and see animation videos, I have a tough time seeing as how it wouldn't have a good seal. That rubber nipple should seal up the hotside/valve connection really well. That plus the pinhole inlet on the center of the nipple that keeps pressure regulated well, due to 20% more surface area on the back of the piston vs the front, also should keep a nice seal. It should do so up and until boost pressure is just too much and it must push it open, because it finally becomes a lesser pressure area to move into rather than shooting back to turbo impeller.

To me, that's really the only thing the GFB is doing different. It SHOULD hold the seal for a tad bit LONGER than factory when the ECU actuates the solenoid to open. That being said, I don't think a better lubed piston would help. In fact, you may want a little more friction, because it'd probably help hold that closed position while the throttle situation is trying to sort itself out. Thoughts?

Maybe when I finally disco my tube or get a spacer, I might be able to hear what's going on.
 

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The hiss @JAKE is describing is due to the changes in PCM strategy regarding boost for 2018+ EcoBoost. You can especially see evidence of this when cruising at highway speed. The PCM attempts to keep the turbo spinning and have boost on tap for a sudden demand and also for fuel economy to keep the turbo spinning freely when not under load so as to not create a restriction for the exhaust gases. The PCM can cycle the DV many many times per second to produce the "partial" venting effect. I never noticed this hiss on my 2015, but had it happening on my 2018, where it was really noticeable once you start venting to atmosphere instead of recirculating. I remember seeing a post on M6G that mentioned this specific situation. You can either modify your OEM DV with the GFB DV+ kit and reduce it somewhat or take away PCM control altogether and go with an aftermarket BOV that uses vacuum/boost reference.
 

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Pretty much spot on there. I do think some on here have had issues though with the 15-17's as well, so its not exclusive to 18+ (as far as the annoying hiss sound). You probably won't notice it if your not vta. It's not really a problem, just super annoying to me. Again, the dv+ did help this scenario A LOT, just didn't cure it completely (for me, anyway). I think I'm just being picky, and want it quiet all the time (unless I'm dumping boost). All in all, the combination of the stock diverter and dv+ works well together, at least for a fairly stock vehicle. Please don't think I'm bashing the product, I just expected perfection I guess.
 

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Ya everyone is on the right track, rather than a manually operated valve that uses vacuum to open and close ford uses the ecu to control the valve with basically a solenoid. Between this and the wastegate it allows the ecu to 100% control boost levels at any given time based on feedback from various sensors. Its a good system just something that a lot of old school turbo guys (like myself) weren't used to. I said before if i had to give 1 piece of advice to anyone wanting to make power in any ecoboost it would be this. Remove all barriers that would cause the ecu to pull power. Not trick it, just figure out what the ecu is seeing and remove that barrier.
 
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