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I cannot see the datalog files that were attached so do not know exact IAT1/IAT2 temps were in the logs.

I just got back from the Hot Rod Power Tour that consisted of 1500 miles in 5 days stopping at 5 different cities for car shows and events. The ambient temps for those 5 days were 100 degrees with heat indexes of up to 110 degrees and my IAT1 was 107 to 115 with IAT2 from 115 to 125 while cruising on the interstates at 70/80 mph with a CVFab IC, when idling in lines to get into events my IAT1 would creep up to 150 degrees and IAT2 up to 160 degrees. This is just for a reference of where the IC should keep IATs at so roughly 10 degrees or less above ambient for IAT1 and within 10 to 20 degrees above IAT1 temp for IAT2 temps when at cruising speeds is my experience. Of course, the cooler the ambient the lower the spread of the IAT1 and IAT2 should be.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
At what point did the problem go away then? Or, did you just think it went away when you posted that, and then it came back?
No it never went away, it is very much so still here. Stage 1 had it and so does Stage 2. (I may try going back to the stock tune just to see how it acts) However at the time I was driving and stayed there was no misfire and the count was low, since then I have noticed that misfire seems to happen allot more at WOT at highway speeds. I’ll post another data log today of highway WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
I cannot see the datalog files that were attached so do not know exact IAT1/IAT2 temps were in the logs.

I just got back from the Hot Rod Power Tour that consisted of 1500 miles in 5 days stopping at 5 different cities for car shows and events. The ambient temps for those 5 days were 100 degrees with heat indexes of up to 110 degrees and my IAT1 was 107 to 115 with IAT2 from 115 to 125 while cruising on the interstates at 70/80 mph with a CVFab IC, when idling in lines to get into events my IAT1 would creep up to 150 degrees and IAT2 up to 160 degrees. This is just for a reference of where the IC should keep IATs at so roughly 10 degrees or less above ambient for IAT1 and within 10 to 20 degrees above IAT1 temp for IAT2 temps when at cruising speeds is my experience. Of course, the cooler the ambient the lower the spread of the IAT1 and IAT2 should be.

BD
I think I understand lol…So difference in temp reading from before intercooler to after intercooler so hot side to cold side should be 10/20 degrees, of course depending on conditions?
 

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No it never went away, it is very much so still here. Stage 1 had it and so does Stage 2. (I may try going back to the stock tune just to see how it acts) However at the time I was driving and stayed there was no misfire and the count was low, since then I have noticed that misfire seems to happen allot more at WOT at highway speeds. I’ll post another data log today of highway WOT.
That is good news, at least you know it's not your burble tune and possibly has nothing to do with ether OTS stage 1 or stage 2 tunes.
I have also seen a Delta T of 35 degrees, but only during competition, never on the street. Cruising down the road at a normal speed, I seldom go much above ambient.
I'm thinking if it was your Intercooler or piping, etc. You u would have the same (+/-) data on all 4 cylinders. Even if it was fuel related, you would have consistent data. Can you pull plug 1 and post a photo of it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
That is good news, at least you know it's not your burble tune and possibly has nothing to do with ether OTS stage 1 or stage 2 tunes.
I have also seen a Delta T of 35 degrees, but only during competition, never on the street. Cruising down the road at a normal speed, I seldom go much above ambient.
I'm thinking if it was your Intercooler or piping, etc. You u would have the same (+/-) data on all 4 cylinders. Even if it was fuel related, you would have consistent data. Can you pull plug 1 and post a photo of it?
Yes after work I’ll pull each plug and post a photo. So here in about 2 hours.
 

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I think I understand lol…So difference in temp reading from before intercooler to after intercooler so hot side to cold side should be 10/20 degrees, of course depending on conditions?
Yes, depending on ambient temps it should be in the range of 10/20 degree difference, and have seen it less than 5 degrees in ambient temps of less than 70 degrees. Our ecos do much better in cooler temps than 90+ temps but are designed to handle the high temps with the PCM pulling timing and limiting boost accordingly to keep the motors happy.

BD
 

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Yes, depending on ambient temps it should be in the range of 10/20 degree difference, and have seen it less than 5 degrees in ambient temps of less than 70 degrees. Our ecos do much better in cooler temps than 90+ temps but are designed to handle the high temps with the PCM pulling timing and limiting boost accordingly to keep the motors happy.

BD
Yep! Ryan at PD tuning let me know that at 100° charge temp the car starts pulling power. Boost life is over for me over here in AZ with ambient temps at 100+ for the next few months

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
That is good news, at least you know it's not your burble tune and possibly has nothing to do with ether OTS stage 1 or stage 2 tunes.
I have also seen a Delta T of 35 degrees, but only during competition, never on the street. Cruising down the road at a normal speed, I seldom go much above ambient.
I'm thinking if it was your Intercooler or piping, etc. You u would have the same (+/-) data on all 4 cylinders. Even if it was fuel related, you would have consistent data. Can you pull plug 1 and post a photo of it?
Sorry for the wait, here’s a photo of the plugs front to rear.
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Audio equipment Gas Cosmetics
 

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Plugs look good with no signs of damage or excessive oil/carbon deposits. Were any loose in the head, what do the coil boots look like, any sign of damage to them. Were the wire connectors secure on the coils.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Plugs look good with no signs of damage or excessive oil/carbon deposits. Were any loose in the head, what do the coil boots look like, any sign of damage to them. Were the wire connectors secure on the coils.

BD
None were loose, coil boots were in perfect condition as far as I could tell, and all connectors were secure. I swapped coil #1 and #2 and will send a data log here in a few minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Plugs look good with no signs of damage or excessive oil/carbon deposits. Were any loose in the head, what do the coil boots look like, any sign of damage to them. Were the wire connectors secure on the coils.

BD
Here is a data log with coil #1 and #2 swapped. The misfire count went up I believe 10 on this run. DATALOG
 

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What air intake do you have. Is it a CAI pod filter?
 

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I don't do google at all in any form so cannot see your datalogs, so cannot be of any help based on them. Sorry.

If this started after IC install my gut and years of experience tells me there was something either done during install or missed that is at the root of the misfires. If it was occurring before the install, then unsure at this point.

Did your car have grill shutters that you had to remove to install the race IC or were there no shutters. If it had shutters and you removed them leaving the connector for them disconnected, then there should be a DTC set for that issue. Removing them and leaving the connector disconnected will not turn on the CEL but will set a DTC for them. You stated you see no DTCs being set via the cobb AP so if it had shutters and still no DTCs there may be an issue in the PCM or with the cobb tuner.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I don't do google at all in any form so cannot see your datalogs, so cannot be of any help based on them. Sorry.

If this started after IC install my gut and years of experience tells me there was something either done during install or missed that is at the root of the misfires. If it was occurring before the install, then unsure at this point.

Did your car have grill shutters that you had to remove to install the race IC or were there no shutters. If it had shutters and you removed them leaving the connector for them disconnected, then there should be a DTC set for that issue. Removing them and leaving the connector disconnected will not turn on the CEL but will set a DTC for them. You stated you see no DTCs being set via the cobb AP so if it had shutters and still no DTCs there may be an issue in the PCM or with the cobb tuner.

BD
Here is a Dropbox link for the last data log I posted DATALOG. Also yes I do have a DTC for the active shutter however no other DTC at all. I also just pulled the bumper, firmly reassured the sensor was connected and tightened down every clamp as tight as possible. May I note when I initially installed the intercooler and charge pipes about a minute after letting the vehicle idle and then run I gave it about 3/4 throttle from a stop and the throttle body rubber boot shot off as I forgot to tighten down the clamp. Do you think that may have caused internal damage in any way going from almost WOT to zero boost? I also noticed I am again lower on coolant after about 3 weeks and filled up to the max line now so perhaps the early stages of a head gasket leak. Still no white smoke, and I’m looking for a pressure kit and compression kit to rule that out. I may also switch to msd coils to rule that out as well.
 

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May I note when I initially installed the intercooler and charge pipes about a minute after letting the vehicle idle and then run I gave it about 3/4 throttle from a stop and the throttle body rubber boot shot off as I forgot to tighten down the clamp. Do you think that may have caused internal damage in any way going from almost WOT to zero boost? I also noticed I am again lower on coolant after about 3 weeks and filled up to the max line now so perhaps the early stages of a head gasket leak. Still no white smoke, and I’m looking for a pressure kit and compression kit to rule that out. I may also switch to msd coils to rule that out as well.
Let's just say there's a certain percentage of us, greater than zero, who blew a charge pipe off, even though we truly believed it was as tight as we could get it... I don't believe that has caused anyone any damage, other than having to go through the process again, and learning that we can, indeed, tighten it more securely!
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Let's just say there's a certain percentage of us, greater than zero, who blew a charge pipe off, even though we truly believed it was as tight as we could get it... I don't believe that has caused anyone any damage, other than having to go through the process again, and learning that we can, indeed, tighten it more securely!
Alrighty, perhaps one of my O2 sensors has gone bad is faulty? The burble time may have caused them to go bad perhaps? My understanding is that the burble is caused by running rich or somehow getting more fuel into the exhaust stream causing the burble/backfire. I know this ruins the stock cat allot sooner but perhaps it has messed with the O2 sensors as well? Just a thought…
 

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I think this is one of those things you just have to be methodical with resolving. So, things like the tune need to be eliminated. I've seen people chase issues like yours a long way. Hopefully, you'll find the cause soon.
 
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