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My son had the CEL just about every time he got gas. He would clear it with a scanner and it would generally, though not always, remain clear until he gassed up again. He cleared it just before the installation and was still out after gassing up.

BTW, here's the photo of the part we removed, oriented as viewed from the driver fender. The valve is on the right. The green clip is on the hose that attaches to it.
ecoboost purge valve.jpg
 

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My son had the CEL just about every time he got gas. He would clear it with a scanner and it would generally, though not always, remain clear until he gassed up again. He cleared it just before the installation and was still out after gassing up.

BTW, here's the photo of the part we removed, oriented as viewed from the driver fender. The valve is on the right. The green clip is on the hose that attaches to it. View attachment 18041

Nice. By the way if you still have the old one see if you can blow through it. If you can the valve is stuck open and faulty Should not be able to on a new one.
 

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Mike,

The installation went almost as expected. The front got a little sneaky to disconnect. (See below)
You'll need a flathead screwdriver, 8 and 10 mm sockets and an extension.

1) Remove the black engine cover to expose the part.
You'll find 2 nuts (8 mm) and 2 bolts (10 mm) in opposite corners of the cover.

2) Look at the replacement part and notice the little nub for locking the electrical connector in place.
Slip the flathead blade into the front of the electrical connector and under a small internal clip.
Lift up gently to clear the nub and slide the electrical connector off when it unlocks.

2) Remove the single bolt holding the valve in place.
10 mm socket? I think so.

3) Behind the valve, slip your flathead under the top of the green clip (which should be facing the driver's side) and loosen it.
No need to remove. The valve should now easily disconnect from the rear hose.

4) At the front at the intake, you can use your fingers to remove the red clip completely. Loosening it will probably work too, but it came off for me.
There's a little internal clip underneath the external red clip. Sneaky.
Press against the flat black area opposite where the red clip was with your screwdriver and the internal clip will flex and release.
(You can practice this on your replacement part and it will be obvious.)

5) Pull the whole assembly out of the car.

Reverse the process to install the new part.

My son went and gassed up the car, which always produces the CEL and a rough start.
No light came on.
Fingers crossed, but so far, so good.

I'll post a pic of the part we removed soon... my wife drove off with my phone. LOL
Okay. I’m going to order the other part this morning and send the other part back. I will try to follow your directions as I’m not a pro at all. It appears to be simple. Thanks for all your help and I greatly appreciate it. I’m about to order the part right now.
 

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What’s the deal. I tried three auto parts places and none will clear the code for me. They are pulling the same P1450 code and I tell them I fixed the part but they just tell me to wait for the driving cycle to end. That’s horse
 

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What’s the deal. I tried three auto parts places and none will clear the code for me. They are pulling the same P1450 code and I tell them I fixed the part but they just tell me to wait for the driving cycle to end. That’s horse
Are you driving a 2016? It should remove itself automatically. Should it?
 

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Yeah it’s a 2016. So I learned I have to drive through a drive cycle and it requires all these different variables to be just right. I broke down and bought a scanner at Walmart. Only like $20. And I can use it in the future and not worry about having to go to autozone anymore. And I don’t have to get an emissions test for a while so it’s all good.
 

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Our light is still out also. And, while I did not try blowing through the new part before installing it, I can use the old part for a soda straw or a pea shooter. Stuck open.
 

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Okay. I’m going to order the other part this morning and send the other part back. I will try to follow your directions as I’m not a pro at all. It appears to be simple. Thanks for all your help and I greatly appreciate it. I’m about to order the part right now.
Mike, if you get stuck, leave a message here and I'll try to help any way I can.
 

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Mike, if you get stuck, leave a message here and I'll try to help any way I can.
Okay. I will. The part hasn’t came yet. I’ll make sure I reach out when it arrives. Right now I’m simply trying to identify where the part is. I’ll go back in the thread to identify what I need as far as tools and everything. This is my first time lol. I’m a rookie.
 

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Mike,

The installation went almost as expected. The front got a little sneaky to disconnect. (See below)
You'll need a flathead screwdriver, 8 and 10 mm sockets and an extension.

1) Remove the black engine cover to expose the part.
You'll find 2 nuts (8 mm) and 2 bolts (10 mm) in opposite corners of the cover.

2) Look at the replacement part and notice the little nub for locking the electrical connector in place.
Slip the flathead blade into the front of the electrical connector and under a small internal clip.
Lift up gently to clear the nub and slide the electrical connector off when it unlocks.

2) Remove the single bolt holding the valve in place.
10 mm socket? I think so.

3) Behind the valve, slip your flathead under the top of the green clip (which should be facing the driver's side) and loosen it.
No need to remove. The valve should now easily disconnect from the rear hose.

4) At the front at the intake, you can use your fingers to remove the red clip completely. Loosening it will probably work too, but it came off for me.
There's a little internal clip underneath the external red clip. Sneaky.
Press against the flat black area opposite where the red clip was with your screwdriver and the internal clip will flex and release.
(You can practice this on your replacement part and it will be obvious.)

5) Pull the whole assembly out of the car.

Reverse the process to install the new part.

My son went and gassed up the car, which always produces the CEL and a rough start.
No light came on.
Fingers crossed, but so far, so good.

I'll post a pic of the part we removed soon... my wife drove off with my phone. LOL
I just installed the part and my engine light is still on. How do I get rid of the Engine light? Do I have to drive the car for a while? Also, all of my bolts were broken. I need to replace them as well to hold the part in place. By the way, the installation of the part was not bad at all. The only issue I had was the sensor would not come off easily. Other than that, it was pretty simple.
 

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Hey, my engine light is still on. Just trying to get it to go off now. Maybe I should gas up and see if that works for me. What are your thoughts?
If you've fixed the issue, it should go out after a few driving cycles. It can't hurt to attempt a refuel and see. Just don't top off your tank. Not good for the evap system as a whole.
 

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If you've fixed the issue, it should go out after a few driving cycles. It can't hurt to attempt a refuel and see. Just don't top off your tank. Not good for the evap system as a whole.
I fueled up a couple of times and I’m definitely not getting the same response. The part was successful. Just waiting on my engine light to go off. It was extremely easy to install the part, but I’m wanting to now have my engine light go off. Thanks for the reply. If it doesn’t go off, do I need to go to the dealer or something to get it off?
 

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Autozone will read codes, not sure if they'll shut 'em off or not. If you know someone with a Cobb Accessport they can reset the codes for you.
 
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