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Fp don’t waste time with 6510 unless you want a plug with no longevity

I've heard bad things about the 6510's. I just have the FP with CAI. what is your setup? I looked up the plugs you mentioned, they seem like good plugs. what do you like about them ? why did you stay with stock heat range plugs ?
 

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Because ford performance is designed for oem plugs. Just get the stock heat ruthenium’s

so the gap should be .28 ? do you remember what part number NGK you bought? Because there's ruthenium plugs that are supposed to fit the 2.3 ecoboost mustang, and there are ruthenium plugs that don't seem to fit anything (according to the parts stores' websites)
 

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I’ve noticed better idling, cold starts, just all around better than oem.

I know the plugs are cleaner burning - my afr after using them is a steady .1 higher than used to be.

Ie. Before with my downpipe and ford tune I was getting like 13.8-13.9 to 14.1-14.2 always.

Nothing changed except spark plugs. Now I get 13.9-14.0 to 14.2-14.3

It’s .1 difference, not much. But i believe that means it’s burning hotter better spark

Runs great, other than I am installing new fuel pressure sensor and evap purge valve, after fill ups I get a stutter, but I read that’s due to faulty evap purge, nothing to do with plugs

Happened a few times before but becoming more prominent
 

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I’ve noticed better idling, cold starts, just all around better than oem.

I know the plugs are cleaner burning - my afr after using them is a steady .1 higher than used to be.

Ie. Before with my downpipe and ford tune I was getting like 13.8-13.9 to 14.1-14.2 always.

Nothing changed except spark plugs. Now I get 13.9-14.0 to 14.2-14.3

It’s .1 difference, not much. But i believe that means it’s burning hotter better spark

Runs great, other than I am installing new fuel pressure sensor and evap purge valve, after fill ups I get a stutter, but I read that’s due to faulty evap purge, nothing to do with plugs

Happened a few times before but becoming more prominent

I'm sort of iffy about NGK plugs. I put the 6510's in my car a few years ago, and within 100 miles the engine failed. Although its possible there was a problem with broken ceramic from the old plugs, the mechanic took extra care when extracting all old plugs, and installing the new ones, Ford tried to railroad me saying that NGK plugs don't go in their cars and that it might void the warranty, but I convinced one of the nicer service advisors that NGK's are used all the time in these cars, he actually did research and confirmed what I told him. At first Ford wanted me to have the mechanic that installed the plugs tear the engine down at my expense, I refused to back down, got plenty of opinions from expert mechanics, and they said even it were the plugs that destroyed the engine, a tear-down wouldn't confirm or deny this. Ford tore the engine down after about a week or so of trying to railroad me, and when they tore it down, they said they have no idea what caused the failure. and they have no choice but to replace/repair under warranty. The car is no longer under warranty due to age/mileage now, so plug brand may not matter, I'm just really leaning towards just throwing new stock plugs in and calling it a day
 

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I’ve noticed better idling, cold starts, just all around better than oem.

I know the plugs are cleaner burning - my afr after using them is a steady .1 higher than used to be.

Ie. Before with my downpipe and ford tune I was getting like 13.8-13.9 to 14.1-14.2 always.

Nothing changed except spark plugs. Now I get 13.9-14.0 to 14.2-14.3

It’s .1 difference, not much. But i believe that means it’s burning hotter better spark

Runs great, other than I am installing new fuel pressure sensor and evap purge valve, after fill ups I get a stutter, but I read that’s due to faulty evap purge, nothing to do with plugs

Happened a few times before but becoming more prominent

I'm almost all the way stock except the FP/CAI set up
 

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I use NGK in every vehicle ive ever owned. Never a single broken plug. The plugs that came out was perfectly gapped, and perfect color.

The NGK's are running amazing. Just make sure you gap them correctly, I bought this with a set of feeler gauges. made it a cinch. I also bought a 5-80lb torque wrench from harbor freight (20 bucks) but goes on sale for 10 bucks. I believe its 14lbs of torque for the plugs. Don't cross thread, do it with engine cold, no anti sieze. NGK's dont need it. set them .028, be gentle, torque them and forget them.

 

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I had my Scion tC, get plugs under some kind of engine work, and man holy crap! the techs had them threaded so damn deep that I am surprised they didnt break on me coming out. After that, and my gf's car, the one plug wasn't even threaded in, just sitting there, blowing gas by.

I said ef that, no longer letting dealers do plugs anymore. NGK in all my motorcycles, cars, dirt bikes, quads etc. Never a single issue, and runs better.

I put rutheniums HX in my 13 Scion tC, (got it in 2012) it has 170k miles ,and I put these ruthenium, (DEF) not PSPE (turbo type) and my scion is purring so quiet, cant even hear it idling. Tossed a set of ruthenium HX in my gf's 15 sonic 1.4 turbo. Running better than ever, went from 34mpg to 42mpg. but I also did oil change, and oil filter to amsoil and kn.

so yeah, I totally recommend them. screw the 6510's

Adam Brunson from tune+ just put out a big post on FB saying ruthenium HX plugs are worth getting, he's been testing them several months and having wonderful results with them over the 6510's

im on pc finally so can actually type a lot.
 

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I use NGK in every vehicle ive ever owned. Never a single broken plug. The plugs that came out was perfectly gapped, and perfect color.

The NGK's are running amazing. Just make sure you gap them correctly, I bought this with a set of feeler gauges. made it a cinch. I also bought a 5-80lb torque wrench from harbor freight (20 bucks) but goes on sale for 10 bucks. I believe its 14lbs of torque for the plugs. Don't cross thread, do it with engine cold, no anti sieze. NGK's dont need it. set them .028, be gentle, torque them and forget them.


I looked for ecoboost mustang specific NGK plugs, and I found them
Spark Plug - Ruthenium HX Part #: NGK 90495


I scheduled my car for a plug change this Saturday, If I can get the NGK plugs before then I'll use them, otherwise, I'll use the stock motorcraft.
 

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Found his post in the Mustang EcoBoost owner group on facebook

heres the full quote.

Begin

𝐑𝐮𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦 𝐕𝐒 𝐈𝐫𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐮𝐦 𝐏𝐥𝐮𝐠𝐬. 𝐏𝐥𝐞𝐚𝐬𝐞 𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐝 𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐢𝐫𝐞 𝐩𝐨𝐬𝐭!
Been doing ongoing testing with the NGK Ruthenium plugs for about 5 months now in all vehicle platforms we support (Ecoboost Mustang, Focus ST, Focus RS, Fiesta ST, and now Coyote).
In the beginning we were only able to get our hands on stock heat range (6) Ruthenium plugs and they really weren't showing any huge gains over the NGK Iridiums that we have been using for years.
Some may have saw that I mentioned we had an issue with the added "plate" to the ground strap actually coming off the strap in a higher power car. Didn't cause any damage but severe misfires and obviously a tiny small piece of metal dropping into your cylinder isn't really something you want.

The variable there was that we did not gap these plugs for the customer, he wanted to try them out himself and gapped himself at the time. At this point I sort of just wrote them off as there was no reason to switch away from the NGK Iridium that we were using and still currently use now.

A few months went by and 1-step colder Ruthenium came out and customers we were tuning started to use them. I didn't see any glaring issues in the logs when we were tuning so I wanted to give them another shot.
For the past 3 months I have been beating the hell out of our #trashfiesta (400whp E50) and #garbagefifty (700whp E85) using the 1-step colder Ruthenium plugs and they have been holding up great and I don't see any negatives over the Iridium.

Though I didn't see any negatives I wasn't really seeing any positives with them to spend the extra money to suggest them over the Iridium (NGK 6510) we have used and sold over 5000 sets of.
So I started to look for weird instances/scenarios where I wanted to see if a Ruthenium plug would show any benefit or advantage over the Iridium. I've come up with a few occasions where the Ruthenium might be a better choice for a customer's setup versus an Iridium plug. See results below.

𝟗𝟏 𝐎𝐜𝐭𝐚𝐧𝐞: 𝐈𝐭 𝐬𝐞𝐞𝐦𝐬 𝐨𝐮𝐫 𝐜𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐬𝐭𝐮𝐜𝐤 𝐮𝐬𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐩𝐢𝐬𝐬-𝐰𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝟗𝟏𝐨𝐜𝐭 𝐢𝐧 𝐀𝐫𝐢𝐳𝐨𝐧𝐚, 𝐂𝐚𝐥𝐢𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐧𝐢𝐚, 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐍𝐞𝐯𝐚𝐝𝐚 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐬𝐡𝐨𝐰𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐛𝐞𝐭𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐮𝐥𝐭𝐬 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐑𝐮𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦. 𝐈 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐬𝐞𝐞𝐧 𝐥𝐞𝐬𝐬 𝐤𝐧𝐨𝐜𝐤 𝐜𝐨𝐫𝐫𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐮𝐬𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐬𝐞 𝐩𝐥𝐮𝐠𝐬 𝐚𝐭 𝐨𝐮𝐫 𝐩𝐫𝐞𝐟𝐞𝐫𝐫𝐞𝐝 𝐠𝐚𝐩 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐈𝐫𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐮𝐦. 𝐈 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐝𝐨𝐧𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐭𝐞𝐬𝐭 𝐧𝐞𝐚𝐫𝐥𝐲 𝐛𝐚𝐜𝐤 𝐭𝐨 𝐛𝐚𝐜𝐤 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐚𝐛𝐨𝐮𝐭 𝟏𝟎 𝐝𝐢𝐟𝐟𝐞𝐫𝐞𝐧𝐭 𝐜𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐰𝐞 𝐡𝐚𝐝 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐬𝐚𝐦𝐞 𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐮𝐥𝐭𝐬. 𝐖𝐞 𝐰𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐚𝐛𝐥𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐠𝐞𝐭 𝐦𝐨𝐫𝐞 𝐜𝐨𝐧𝐬𝐢𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐧𝐭 𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐚𝐜𝐫𝐨𝐬𝐬 𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐜𝐲𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐝𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐢𝐧 𝐬𝐨𝐦𝐞 𝐜𝐚𝐬𝐞𝐬 𝐰𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐚𝐛𝐥𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐚𝐝𝐝 𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐫 𝟏 𝐭𝐨 𝟏.𝟓* 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐨𝐧 𝟗𝟏𝐨𝐜𝐭. 𝐓𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐢𝐬 𝐠𝐨𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐨 𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐥𝐲 𝐭𝐨 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐜𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐦𝐢𝐝𝐰𝐞𝐬𝐭 𝐚𝐬 𝐰𝐞𝐥𝐥 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐢𝐧 𝐦𝐨𝐫𝐞 𝐫𝐮𝐫𝐚𝐥 𝐚𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐬. 𝐈 𝐭𝐞𝐧𝐝 𝐭𝐨 𝐬𝐞𝐞 𝐥𝐨𝐰 𝐪𝐮𝐚𝐥𝐢𝐭𝐲 𝟗𝟏𝐨𝐜𝐭 𝐢𝐧 𝐈𝐨𝐰𝐚, 𝐊𝐚𝐧𝐬𝐚𝐬, 𝐎𝐤𝐥𝐚𝐡𝐨𝐦𝐚, 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐌𝐢𝐬𝐬𝐨𝐮𝐫𝐢.

𝟗𝟑 𝐎𝐜𝐭𝐚𝐧𝐞 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐄𝟑𝟎/𝟒𝟎: 𝐈 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐧𝐨𝐭 𝐬𝐞𝐞𝐧 𝐚𝐧𝐲 𝐛𝐞𝐧𝐞𝐟𝐢𝐭 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐑𝐞𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦 𝐩𝐥𝐮𝐠𝐬 𝐨𝐯𝐞𝐫 𝐈𝐫𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐮𝐦. 𝐈'𝐦 𝐠𝐨𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐨 𝐤𝐞𝐞𝐩 𝐬𝐮𝐠𝐠𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐜𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐠𝐨 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐍𝐆𝐊 𝟔𝟓𝟏𝟎 𝐈𝐫𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐮𝐦 𝐭𝐨 𝐬𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐚 𝐟𝐞𝐰 𝐛𝐮𝐜𝐤𝐬. 𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐨𝐧𝐥𝐲 𝐚𝐝𝐯𝐚𝐧𝐭𝐚𝐠𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐈 𝐜𝐚𝐧 𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐢𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐠𝐞𝐭 𝐚𝐛𝐨𝐮𝐭 𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐫 𝟓,𝟎𝟎𝟎-𝟏𝟎,𝟎𝟎𝟎 𝐦𝐢𝐥𝐞𝐬 𝐨𝐟 "𝐨𝐩𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐮𝐦 𝐩𝐞𝐫𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐦𝐚𝐧𝐜𝐞" 𝐫𝐚𝐧𝐠𝐞 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐬𝐞.𝐓𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐢𝐬 𝐬𝐨𝐦𝐞 𝐚𝐝𝐝𝐞𝐝 𝐯𝐚𝐥𝐮𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐛𝐮𝐭 𝐈 𝐝𝐨𝐧'𝐭 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐤 𝐢𝐭 𝐰𝐢𝐥𝐥 𝐦𝐚𝐤𝐞 𝐮𝐩 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐚𝐝𝐝𝐢𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐚𝐥 𝐜𝐨𝐬𝐭.

𝐏𝐨𝐫𝐭 𝐈𝐧𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐂𝐚𝐫𝐬: 𝐎𝐧 𝐄𝐜𝐨𝐛𝐨𝐨𝐬𝐭 𝐌𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐚𝐧𝐠, 𝐅𝐨𝐜𝐮𝐬 𝐒𝐓, 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐅𝐨𝐜𝐮𝐬 𝐑𝐒 𝐈 𝐝𝐢𝐝𝐧'𝐭 𝐬𝐞𝐞 𝐚𝐧𝐲 𝐛𝐞𝐧𝐞𝐟𝐢𝐭. 𝐇𝐨𝐰𝐞𝐯𝐞𝐫 𝐨𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐅𝐢𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐚 𝐒𝐓 𝐈 𝐝𝐢𝐝 𝐬𝐞𝐞 𝐚 𝐩𝐫𝐞𝐭𝐭𝐲 𝐬𝐢𝐠𝐧𝐢𝐟𝐢𝐜𝐚𝐧𝐭 𝐛𝐞𝐧𝐞𝐟𝐢𝐭 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐑𝐞𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦 𝐩𝐥𝐮𝐠𝐬. 𝐀 𝐥𝐨𝐭 𝐨𝐟 𝐅𝐢𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐚 𝐒𝐓'𝐬 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐨𝐝𝐝-𝐛𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐢𝐠𝐧𝐢𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐜𝐨𝐫𝐫𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬 𝐰𝐡𝐞𝐧 𝐫𝐮𝐧𝐧𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐀𝐔𝐗 𝐟𝐮𝐞𝐥. 𝐎𝐧 𝐒𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐥𝐞 𝐢𝐧𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐨𝐫 𝐀𝐔𝐗 𝐢𝐭 𝐢𝐬 𝐥𝐞𝐬𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐚𝐧 𝐢𝐬𝐬𝐮𝐞, 𝐛𝐮𝐭 𝐨𝐧 𝟒-𝐩𝐨𝐫𝐭 𝐬𝐞𝐭𝐮𝐩𝐬 𝐰𝐞 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐜𝐮𝐫𝐞𝐝 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐟𝐚𝐥𝐬𝐞 𝐤𝐧𝐨𝐜𝐤 𝐜𝐨𝐫𝐫𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬 𝐨𝐧 𝐚 𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐝𝐟𝐮𝐥 𝐨𝐟 𝐜𝐚𝐫𝐬 𝐛𝐲 𝐬𝐰𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐨𝐯𝐞𝐫 𝐭𝐨 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐑𝐮𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦. 𝐓𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐢𝐬 𝐥𝐢𝐤𝐞𝐥𝐲 𝐝𝐮𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐩𝐢𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐧 𝐝𝐞𝐬𝐢𝐠𝐧 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐢𝐧𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐨𝐫 𝐩𝐥𝐚𝐜𝐞𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐭 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝟏.𝟔𝐋 𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐬𝐮𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝟐.𝟎/𝟐.𝟑𝐋.
𝐎𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐢𝐭 𝐡𝐨𝐧𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐥𝐲 𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐬 𝐝𝐨𝐰𝐧 𝐭𝐨 𝐩𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐞 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐚𝐯𝐚𝐢𝐥𝐚𝐛𝐢𝐥𝐢𝐭𝐲. 𝐎𝐧 𝐩𝐚𝐩𝐞𝐫 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐑𝐮𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦'𝐬 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐚 "𝐛𝐞𝐭𝐭𝐞𝐫" 𝐩𝐥𝐮𝐠 𝐛𝐮𝐭 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐚𝐜𝐭𝐮𝐚𝐥 𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐥 𝐰𝐨𝐫𝐥𝐝 𝐭𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐥𝐢𝐜𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐈 𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐥𝐥 𝐫𝐞𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐝 𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐜𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐈𝐫𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐮𝐦𝐬 𝐮𝐧𝐥𝐞𝐬𝐬 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐟𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐢𝐧𝐭𝐨 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝟗𝟏𝐨𝐜𝐭/𝐏𝐨𝐫𝐭 𝐈𝐧𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐅𝐢𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐚 𝐜𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐠𝐨𝐫𝐲 𝐚𝐛𝐨𝐯𝐞.

There is NO NEGATIVES if you want to run the Ruthenium over the Iridium. You DO get the advantage of running them out a hair longer than the Iridium but with added cost. I would say if you are dealing with a situation where you are seeing a lot of knock correction and already have Iridiums, or you are fighting misfire issues it might be a good idea to see if the Rethenium plug is a better fit for your setup and application. I can't test ALL scenarios but is is a very cheap potential solution to an issue that might be causing you a headache.
We have some inventory coming in for these plugs, we have about 80 plugs on hand now, and have about 1000 more coming in. NGK is a little behind on production because of Covid-19 but we are always doing our best to have plugs on hand and never run out!
 

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I looked for ecoboost mustang specific NGK plugs, and I found them
Spark Plug - Ruthenium HX Part #: NGK 90495


I scheduled my car for a plug change this Saturday, If I can get the NGK plugs before then I'll use them, otherwise, I'll use the stock motorcraft.

almost guarantee the tech guys who tosses your plugs in won't gap them to .028. they come at .032 and I realize, dealerships dont give a damn or tech guys. Found that out pulling the stock plugs out of my other cars, they was like .040 gap and thats what the plugs come with, supposed to of been gapped down to like .034

none of them was even gapped, in her car or my car, and I had a plug service. people are just too damn lazy, if you buy those plugs, gap them yourself. otherwise get OEM. Also, they can ruin your plugs if not done right. they could use one of those ghetto coin tools and break your electrode.
 

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No one is going to pay attention to your gap plugs as much as us owners. thats all I can say after pulling the plugs out of all my cars, no one gave a damn about gapping any of the plugs.
 

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id go OEM if you are having dealer install, again. my plugs was perfectly fine when I yanked them, but I feel my car is running better on rutheniums, but maybe like 3% better. it ran fine before. didnt need a plug change
 

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if you ever decide to do it yourself, get the tools and toss some rutheniums in. thumb up.

Its not a Ford dealer, just a local shop I go to. I don't like to do plugs myself, I have trouble setting gaps and all. I can't get the NGK Ruthenium HX before the appointment. Everything is special order, don't understand why
 

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my local Advanced auto parts, had like 30 of my spark plugs in stock- and had 25% off, and idk why. but I bought $38 worth of plugs, and I crap you not. I received $40 in reward point coupon after.

Lmao. No idea how, but better believe I spent them on crap I didnt need. I received another $5 coupon today for no reason. I get a coupon like twice a month for no reason. but I got 40 for no reason, all at same time in my email after that NGK purchase.

37511
 

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I told ya how to do it. buy that 50 buck gizmo. set the plug in it, use feeler gauge .028, see how lose it is. remove gauge, twist knob a little, back it off, check with feeler .028 gauge, repeat. make it so its nice and snug, but still able to go in and out.

takes about 2mins to do all 4. I have a ton of vehicles, so I bought the 50 buck tool. already paid itself off, used it on 4 vehicles since I got it.
 

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Found his post in the Mustang EcoBoost owner group on facebook

heres the full quote.

Begin

𝐑𝐮𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦 𝐕𝐒 𝐈𝐫𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐮𝐦 𝐏𝐥𝐮𝐠𝐬. 𝐏𝐥𝐞𝐚𝐬𝐞 𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐝 𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐢𝐫𝐞 𝐩𝐨𝐬𝐭!
Been doing ongoing testing with the NGK Ruthenium plugs for about 5 months now in all vehicle platforms we support (Ecoboost Mustang, Focus ST, Focus RS, Fiesta ST, and now Coyote).
In the beginning we were only able to get our hands on stock heat range (6) Ruthenium plugs and they really weren't showing any huge gains over the NGK Iridiums that we have been using for years.
Some may have saw that I mentioned we had an issue with the added "plate" to the ground strap actually coming off the strap in a higher power car. Didn't cause any damage but severe misfires and obviously a tiny small piece of metal dropping into your cylinder isn't really something you want.

The variable there was that we did not gap these plugs for the customer, he wanted to try them out himself and gapped himself at the time. At this point I sort of just wrote them off as there was no reason to switch away from the NGK Iridium that we were using and still currently use now.

A few months went by and 1-step colder Ruthenium came out and customers we were tuning started to use them. I didn't see any glaring issues in the logs when we were tuning so I wanted to give them another shot.
For the past 3 months I have been beating the hell out of our #trashfiesta (400whp E50) and #garbagefifty (700whp E85) using the 1-step colder Ruthenium plugs and they have been holding up great and I don't see any negatives over the Iridium.

Though I didn't see any negatives I wasn't really seeing any positives with them to spend the extra money to suggest them over the Iridium (NGK 6510) we have used and sold over 5000 sets of.
So I started to look for weird instances/scenarios where I wanted to see if a Ruthenium plug would show any benefit or advantage over the Iridium. I've come up with a few occasions where the Ruthenium might be a better choice for a customer's setup versus an Iridium plug. See results below.

𝟗𝟏 𝐎𝐜𝐭𝐚𝐧𝐞: 𝐈𝐭 𝐬𝐞𝐞𝐦𝐬 𝐨𝐮𝐫 𝐜𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐬𝐭𝐮𝐜𝐤 𝐮𝐬𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐩𝐢𝐬𝐬-𝐰𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝟗𝟏𝐨𝐜𝐭 𝐢𝐧 𝐀𝐫𝐢𝐳𝐨𝐧𝐚, 𝐂𝐚𝐥𝐢𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐧𝐢𝐚, 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐍𝐞𝐯𝐚𝐝𝐚 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐬𝐡𝐨𝐰𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐛𝐞𝐭𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐮𝐥𝐭𝐬 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐑𝐮𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦. 𝐈 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐬𝐞𝐞𝐧 𝐥𝐞𝐬𝐬 𝐤𝐧𝐨𝐜𝐤 𝐜𝐨𝐫𝐫𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐮𝐬𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐬𝐞 𝐩𝐥𝐮𝐠𝐬 𝐚𝐭 𝐨𝐮𝐫 𝐩𝐫𝐞𝐟𝐞𝐫𝐫𝐞𝐝 𝐠𝐚𝐩 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐈𝐫𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐮𝐦. 𝐈 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐝𝐨𝐧𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐭𝐞𝐬𝐭 𝐧𝐞𝐚𝐫𝐥𝐲 𝐛𝐚𝐜𝐤 𝐭𝐨 𝐛𝐚𝐜𝐤 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐚𝐛𝐨𝐮𝐭 𝟏𝟎 𝐝𝐢𝐟𝐟𝐞𝐫𝐞𝐧𝐭 𝐜𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐰𝐞 𝐡𝐚𝐝 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐬𝐚𝐦𝐞 𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐮𝐥𝐭𝐬. 𝐖𝐞 𝐰𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐚𝐛𝐥𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐠𝐞𝐭 𝐦𝐨𝐫𝐞 𝐜𝐨𝐧𝐬𝐢𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐧𝐭 𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐚𝐜𝐫𝐨𝐬𝐬 𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐜𝐲𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐝𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐢𝐧 𝐬𝐨𝐦𝐞 𝐜𝐚𝐬𝐞𝐬 𝐰𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐚𝐛𝐥𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐚𝐝𝐝 𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐫 𝟏 𝐭𝐨 𝟏.𝟓* 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐨𝐧 𝟗𝟏𝐨𝐜𝐭. 𝐓𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐢𝐬 𝐠𝐨𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐨 𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐥𝐲 𝐭𝐨 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐜𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐦𝐢𝐝𝐰𝐞𝐬𝐭 𝐚𝐬 𝐰𝐞𝐥𝐥 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐢𝐧 𝐦𝐨𝐫𝐞 𝐫𝐮𝐫𝐚𝐥 𝐚𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐬. 𝐈 𝐭𝐞𝐧𝐝 𝐭𝐨 𝐬𝐞𝐞 𝐥𝐨𝐰 𝐪𝐮𝐚𝐥𝐢𝐭𝐲 𝟗𝟏𝐨𝐜𝐭 𝐢𝐧 𝐈𝐨𝐰𝐚, 𝐊𝐚𝐧𝐬𝐚𝐬, 𝐎𝐤𝐥𝐚𝐡𝐨𝐦𝐚, 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐌𝐢𝐬𝐬𝐨𝐮𝐫𝐢.

𝟗𝟑 𝐎𝐜𝐭𝐚𝐧𝐞 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐄𝟑𝟎/𝟒𝟎: 𝐈 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐧𝐨𝐭 𝐬𝐞𝐞𝐧 𝐚𝐧𝐲 𝐛𝐞𝐧𝐞𝐟𝐢𝐭 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐑𝐞𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦 𝐩𝐥𝐮𝐠𝐬 𝐨𝐯𝐞𝐫 𝐈𝐫𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐮𝐦. 𝐈'𝐦 𝐠𝐨𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐨 𝐤𝐞𝐞𝐩 𝐬𝐮𝐠𝐠𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐜𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐠𝐨 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐍𝐆𝐊 𝟔𝟓𝟏𝟎 𝐈𝐫𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐮𝐦 𝐭𝐨 𝐬𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐚 𝐟𝐞𝐰 𝐛𝐮𝐜𝐤𝐬. 𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐨𝐧𝐥𝐲 𝐚𝐝𝐯𝐚𝐧𝐭𝐚𝐠𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐈 𝐜𝐚𝐧 𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐢𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐠𝐞𝐭 𝐚𝐛𝐨𝐮𝐭 𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐫 𝟓,𝟎𝟎𝟎-𝟏𝟎,𝟎𝟎𝟎 𝐦𝐢𝐥𝐞𝐬 𝐨𝐟 "𝐨𝐩𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐮𝐦 𝐩𝐞𝐫𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐦𝐚𝐧𝐜𝐞" 𝐫𝐚𝐧𝐠𝐞 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐬𝐞.𝐓𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐢𝐬 𝐬𝐨𝐦𝐞 𝐚𝐝𝐝𝐞𝐝 𝐯𝐚𝐥𝐮𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐛𝐮𝐭 𝐈 𝐝𝐨𝐧'𝐭 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐤 𝐢𝐭 𝐰𝐢𝐥𝐥 𝐦𝐚𝐤𝐞 𝐮𝐩 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐚𝐝𝐝𝐢𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐚𝐥 𝐜𝐨𝐬𝐭.

𝐏𝐨𝐫𝐭 𝐈𝐧𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐂𝐚𝐫𝐬: 𝐎𝐧 𝐄𝐜𝐨𝐛𝐨𝐨𝐬𝐭 𝐌𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐚𝐧𝐠, 𝐅𝐨𝐜𝐮𝐬 𝐒𝐓, 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐅𝐨𝐜𝐮𝐬 𝐑𝐒 𝐈 𝐝𝐢𝐝𝐧'𝐭 𝐬𝐞𝐞 𝐚𝐧𝐲 𝐛𝐞𝐧𝐞𝐟𝐢𝐭. 𝐇𝐨𝐰𝐞𝐯𝐞𝐫 𝐨𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐅𝐢𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐚 𝐒𝐓 𝐈 𝐝𝐢𝐝 𝐬𝐞𝐞 𝐚 𝐩𝐫𝐞𝐭𝐭𝐲 𝐬𝐢𝐠𝐧𝐢𝐟𝐢𝐜𝐚𝐧𝐭 𝐛𝐞𝐧𝐞𝐟𝐢𝐭 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐑𝐞𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦 𝐩𝐥𝐮𝐠𝐬. 𝐀 𝐥𝐨𝐭 𝐨𝐟 𝐅𝐢𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐚 𝐒𝐓'𝐬 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐨𝐝𝐝-𝐛𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐢𝐠𝐧𝐢𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐜𝐨𝐫𝐫𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬 𝐰𝐡𝐞𝐧 𝐫𝐮𝐧𝐧𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐀𝐔𝐗 𝐟𝐮𝐞𝐥. 𝐎𝐧 𝐒𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐥𝐞 𝐢𝐧𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐨𝐫 𝐀𝐔𝐗 𝐢𝐭 𝐢𝐬 𝐥𝐞𝐬𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐚𝐧 𝐢𝐬𝐬𝐮𝐞, 𝐛𝐮𝐭 𝐨𝐧 𝟒-𝐩𝐨𝐫𝐭 𝐬𝐞𝐭𝐮𝐩𝐬 𝐰𝐞 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐜𝐮𝐫𝐞𝐝 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐟𝐚𝐥𝐬𝐞 𝐤𝐧𝐨𝐜𝐤 𝐜𝐨𝐫𝐫𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬 𝐨𝐧 𝐚 𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐝𝐟𝐮𝐥 𝐨𝐟 𝐜𝐚𝐫𝐬 𝐛𝐲 𝐬𝐰𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐨𝐯𝐞𝐫 𝐭𝐨 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐑𝐮𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦. 𝐓𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐢𝐬 𝐥𝐢𝐤𝐞𝐥𝐲 𝐝𝐮𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐩𝐢𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐧 𝐝𝐞𝐬𝐢𝐠𝐧 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐢𝐧𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐨𝐫 𝐩𝐥𝐚𝐜𝐞𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐭 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝟏.𝟔𝐋 𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐬𝐮𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝟐.𝟎/𝟐.𝟑𝐋.
𝐎𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐢𝐭 𝐡𝐨𝐧𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐥𝐲 𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐬 𝐝𝐨𝐰𝐧 𝐭𝐨 𝐩𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐞 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐚𝐯𝐚𝐢𝐥𝐚𝐛𝐢𝐥𝐢𝐭𝐲. 𝐎𝐧 𝐩𝐚𝐩𝐞𝐫 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐑𝐮𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐮𝐦'𝐬 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐚 "𝐛𝐞𝐭𝐭𝐞𝐫" 𝐩𝐥𝐮𝐠 𝐛𝐮𝐭 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐚𝐜𝐭𝐮𝐚𝐥 𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐥 𝐰𝐨𝐫𝐥𝐝 𝐭𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐥𝐢𝐜𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐈 𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐥𝐥 𝐫𝐞𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐝 𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐜𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐈𝐫𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐮𝐦𝐬 𝐮𝐧𝐥𝐞𝐬𝐬 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐟𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐢𝐧𝐭𝐨 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝟗𝟏𝐨𝐜𝐭/𝐏𝐨𝐫𝐭 𝐈𝐧𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐅𝐢𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐚 𝐜𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐠𝐨𝐫𝐲 𝐚𝐛𝐨𝐯𝐞.

There is NO NEGATIVES if you want to run the Ruthenium over the Iridium. You DO get the advantage of running them out a hair longer than the Iridium but with added cost. I would say if you are dealing with a situation where you are seeing a lot of knock correction and already have Iridiums, or you are fighting misfire issues it might be a good idea to see if the Rethenium plug is a better fit for your setup and application. I can't test ALL scenarios but is is a very cheap potential solution to an issue that might be causing you a headache.
We have some inventory coming in for these plugs, we have about 80 plugs on hand now, and have about 1000 more coming in. NGK is a little behind on production because of Covid-19 but we are always doing our best to have plugs on hand and never run out!

overall my car runs fine, but sometimes I think it could run a bit better, sometimes I believe I'm getting false knock at WOT high rpm, but not all the time, its been making a clicking sound sometimes at high rpm and at WOT even before the engine blew up. I don't notice it all the time. Some people claim pre-denotation , some people have had false knock from the exhaust slapping up against the frame when going WOT, if it was serious I think I'd be already in a new engine, I've put 27 thousand miles on the car since the new engine, no problems so far.
 

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I have a catch can, and amsoil signature oil, I believe the LSPI preventative oil is a big deal.

Did you blow the engine on the ford performance tune? I am at 27k on my FP, I loaded it at like 5k miles. last 2k is with downpipe.
 
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