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I have recently noticed that my car will have a sudden loss of power when I have it at wide open throttle. When this happens I hear some clicking sounds coming from the back of the car which I think may be the fuel pump. When not under WOT the car runs fine but I do notice a rough idle from time to time. I can’t seem to find what is causing this. If anyone knows please help. Thanks.
 

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I have recently noticed that my car will have a sudden loss of power when I have it at wide open throttle. When this happens I hear some clicking sounds coming from the back of the car which I think may be the fuel pump. When not under WOT the car runs fine but I do notice a rough idle from time to time. I can’t seem to find what is causing this. If anyone knows please help. Thanks.
That is what it sounds like when the engine cuts spark.
There will be a metallic snapping noise and white clouds of unburned fuel will come from the tail pipes.
There can be a few reasons for this including but not limited tol..

-The knock sensor has picked up severe detonation and is shutting things down to protect the engine.
-The engine has hit its rev limiter.
-The spark plug gap is out of specification causing severe spark blowout.
-An issue with fuel delivery is causing a sudden lean condition.
-An internal fault in the rotating assembly is causing the knock sensot to go off.

The first one is the most common, low octane fuel mixed with hot weather and a heavy foot will cause knocking.

The second one is a bit obvious.

The third one does happen on occasion if the plug gap gets too big and can be corrected with a regap or replacement of the plugs.

The fourth one requires a check of fuel pressure and fuel pressure sensors, the low side fuel pressure sensor is known to fail and cause a variety of issues..

The fifth one is one that I have experienced myself and is serious. When I bought the car it had a slight tic that I figured was just the direct injection pump. Over the next 1000 miles that tic turned into an all out rattle when the engine was cold and the engine would act like I had put bad fuel in it no matter what gas I used. The cause was a piston rocking in a cylinder bore that was out of specification, it was making the knock sensor think that severe detonation was occurring.
Ford replaced the shortblock under warranty and the problem never returned


If it is just a bad fuel issue a tank of good premium should correct it otherwise a trip to a dealership is necessary to investigate the cause.

In this video below you can hear the ECU cut the spark at the 27 second mark.


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Slojas has given you a lot to consider. I do have one question, maybe two. You state that it fall on its face at WOT, it this as soon as you apply the boot to the pony or does it fall flat at a certain RPM......say around 5,500 rpm?

Do you or when is the last time you ran a couple of tanks of 91/93 octane fuel through the tank?

Maybe it's just me, but I hate taking my vehicles to the service dept
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No it does not happen right away. It varies, I would say between 4000-6000 rpm. I run 91 about 99% of the time. I’d run 93 but it’s not available where I live.
 

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I'm sure that someone will come along and correct me as to the RPM if I am off, but the Ecoboost power flat drops off and falls on it's face at 5,500 RPM as it is programmed to do. The only way around this is with a tune.

I don't know what year you have, but if it's a 15 though 17 the Ford Performance Calibration tune and intake is well worth the money. I paid $511 delivered for mine. If your Mustang is a 18 or 19 this is not as of yet available for these model years.

Good news is that unless I am mistaken the FPP Calibration tune and intake is legal CA. However, please confirm this before purchasing.
 

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I'm sure that someone will come along and correct me as to the RPM if I am off, but the Ecoboost power flat drops off and falls on it's face at 5,500 RPM as it is programmed to do. The only way around this is with a tune.

I don't know what year you have, but if it's a 15 though 17 the Ford Performance Calibration tune and intake is well worth the money. I paid $511 delivered for mine. If your Mustang is a 18 or 19 this is not as of yet available for these model years.

Good news is that unless I am mistaken the FPP Calibration tune and intake is legal CA. However, please confirm this before purchasing.
The power dropoff on the stock tune doesn't involve the ECU cutting spark. A metallic snapping noise in the 4000 to 6000 rpm range is a serious cause for concern and should be reported to the dealer immediately.

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You need to try and change the low side fuel pressure sensor. If you have an accessport verify that it’s working correctly. Sorry if this has been mentioned before. This was the death of my engine. A faulty low side sensor will tell the HPFP to drop pressure because the sensor is over saturated and this will result in a dangerously lean condition.

Edit: when this happened on mine the last time it was during data logs and the engine leaned out to about 17:1. The loss of power was because the ecu is actually very good about protecting the engine in these scenarios. The wastegate will open to bleed boost, the throttle will close even with your foot down and ignition timing will retard. Unfortunately it happened to be 3 times before I finally saw it in a log and fixed it. Honestly for 26 bucks it’s good to change it anyway as an insurance policy.

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You need to try and change the low side fuel pressure sensor. If you have an accessport verify that it’s working correctly. Sorry if this has been mentioned before. This was the death of my engine. A faulty low side sensor will tell the HPFP to drop pressure because the sensor is over saturated and this will result in a dangerously lean condition.

Edit: when this happened on mine the last time it was during data logs and the engine leaned out to about 17:1. The loss of power was because the ecu is actually very good about protecting the engine in these scenarios. The wastegate will open to bleed boost, the throttle will close even with your foot down and ignition timing will retard. Unfortunately it happened to be 3 times before I finally saw it in a log and fixed it. Honestly for 26 bucks it’s good to change it anyway as an insurance policy.

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I have similar issues. It only happens when i hit the gas hard regardless of throttle. My engine doesn't sound like the video. I'll try the sensor. Thanks I'll update if it fixes.
 

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I have similar issues. It only happens when i hit the gas hard regardless of throttle. My engine doesn't sound like the video. I'll try the sensor. Thanks I'll update if it fixes.
MY 17 Premium w/ Performance Pack, 6 speed...CAI + Stage 1 Roush... just started something similar. I'll be under full pedal, the RPM hits between 4500-5200 and this "hiccup" happens, Its happened in 1st, where it is so abrupt if feels like i ripped the car out of gear and into neutral and this morning it happened on the highway under full pedal around 75-80mph in 4th gear. Tach read about 4800 again a quick stumble or hiccup, I feel power reduction and watch the boost gauge drop from 22-24ish to about 10, I shift to 5th and hit throttle again and it accelerates and produces full boost again....when I got the car brand new and threw the Roush CAI on it, it would "overboost" sparatically and limit the boost to about 5 psi, but I've never had an issue with the car holding boost pressure all the way through the rpm and gear range....I did have an eco-boom literally 3 miles short of the 60k power train warranty expiring, so the car has 71k on it but the wnty short block only has about 10k on it at this point....with that short block I was in and out of the dealership for 4 months after because once I got it back, it kept throwing the CEL for "Air leak between throttle body and intake valves" (i forget the code, finally)....so over 4 months my shortblock got new intake, injectors, pcv, purge valve, and finally a new head before the code finally stopped popping up....about 10k prior to the ecoboom, the head gasket had failed, and the couple days leading to the head gasket failure was the only other time I've ever felt the car stumble on the top end, but it was different....that was more of a stutter....this is almost like someone throws a switch....I'm out of wnty now, and if its not related to the short block itself, I'm gonna be out of pocket on the fix, which means it's one I'll tackle myself...any additional insite on this issue would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Sorry to bump an old thread that seems to be getting bumped over and over. Looks like I'm getting the same issue - similar to Hurricane321. With an SCT X4 or an obd2 dongle, what kind of fuel parameters should I be looking at/data logging?

I'm tempted to get plugs and the sensor anyway to throw at it, just to be on the safe side... I'm at 63k miles all stock (2018 a10, had the car since 42k, before which it was a rental, so probably still stock plugs), and I just put a 5star tune on there about 1k miles ago. I am in Phoenix, our gas is garbage usually, and it is getting hot outside but this was with 90F ambient and about 100 IAT...

Do these gapping tools work for the ruthenium plugs? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083BLSP2Y/ I'm asking because the tune+ pregapped ones are on backorder until the end of may and i'd like to get these changed out before then... Napa has the ruthenium 95605 ones in stock, gapped at grand canyon sizes (.052?) according to their site...

And is this the latest iteration of this sensor? Ford Lowside Fuel Injector Pressure Sensor Motorcraft EcoBoost 2015-2021

Thanks everyone who chimed in, rare to find a straight to the point post like this...
 

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Going from… .052 to 0.028 is stupid. Ngk only recommends only a change of 0.08 in either direction. Find a plug in the heat you want in a closer range.
0.032 ngk 90495 is ngk ruthenium but it’s stock heat.
39994
 

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Going from… .052 to 0.028 is stupid. Ngk only recommends only a change of 0.08 in either direction. Find a plug in the heat you want in a closer range.
0.032 ngk 90495 is ngk ruthenium but it’s stock heat.
yeah, not sure which one is right on Napa's page... top says 0.052, bottom part says 0.032: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NGO95605

95605 is the p/n I got from tuneplus - wish they weren't backordered... NGK LTR7BHX (95605) 1-step colder Ruthenium Spark Plugs (Set of 4, 6,or 8) - Pre-gapped to TunePlus, Inc Spec
 

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im sure it would work, I mean, it should be centered on the electrode. I personally own this, and like it. I use it for all my spark plugs though motorcycle, car, mower etc. it accommodates all the sizes. I like it being able to be used on the flat desktop. easier than that imo. but a bit more. I just do small increases, then release, and then check with a feeler gauge, dont put the gauge and squeeze it onto it. thats bad. imo.

when you release the pressure, it springs back a hair, so technically I prob close the gap to .026-0.027 but when you release/unscrew it, it has a little back spring. I also leave it crimped for a moment. but yeah, I release knob, and check gauge, small increments, that way you dont have to widen the gap. just close it a little at a time. I knock out a set of plugs in couple minutes.

39997
 
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