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TunePlus Internal Wastegate Actuator Installation

15K views 52 replies 9 participants last post by  Sigrafix 
#1 ·
I looked at the two installation videos for the TunePlus IWG and thought I could do a better job.

Here is the link:


Thank y'all.

MustangsbyMatt
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#2 ·
Great video. I signed up for your channel. I think there are some members that have tried 4 FULL TURNS and it turned out it was a little too much preload. Did you find it okay? I know most people go with 3 FULL TURNS. Turbosmart instructions for their own wastegate and springs states 2mm, which is approximately 2 FULL TURNS.
 
#3 ·
It's whatever is required to get that 3mm. If you just bought a Turbosmart Actuator from American Muscle or something, 2mm would probably be fine. The TunePlus doesn't use the original spring supplied with the Turbosmart Actuator. They install a proprietary spring set specifically for TunePlus. After that, Adam will let you know via the data logging process if you need to make any changes. And thank you for subscribing. I'll try to be more present on here.
 
#6 ·
Not particularly. The biggest improvement has been with driveability. Post shift boost surge is gone. I would just get the Tune+ actuator or of the gate versus having to replace that spring. As far as I'm aware, you can't buy that spring separately.
 
#7 ·
I have a question. Im going to be upgrading my waste gate to either the 7 psi or the 10psi. Im currently tuned and have seen boost levels ranging between 24 as high as 26.5 psi at full throttle. If I go with the 7 psi waste gate which won't require further tuning how will that perform with what Im currently throwing at it? Or would it be in my best interest to get the 10 psi and do a re-tune?
 
#10 ·
Thankyou both for your advice @mgrimes554 and @gatornek . Moneys not so much the issue as the work needed comparatively between the 2 different waste gates. The install is the same but the the additional tuning needed and data log runs and waiting and so on. If the 7 psi will do just as good a job as the 10 psi on the stock turbo running higher boost then I'd rather keep it simple. But if the 7 psi won't operate as well as the 10 psi then I'd rather go with the 10 psi and deal with all the additional stuff. Sorry if thats too long winded.
 
#11 ·
Gents,
I decided to order the 7 psi waste gate to start as it doesnt require a retune. I want to see how it performs first to decide if I'm liking where the car is at. However, knowing me, if I'm not feeling its enough, I'll go ahead and order a 10psi spring and get the re tune.
Thankyou to both of you for your input.
 
#12 ·
Gents,
I decided to order the 7 psi waste gate to start as it doesnt require a retune. I want to see how it performs first to decide if I'm liking where the car is at. However, knowing me, if I'm not feeling its enough, I'll go ahead and order a 10psi spring and get the re tune.
Thankyou to both of you for your input.
You'll see it when you take the stock off, there is sooo much preload on it, that the cracking pressure is sure to be super low compared to the turbosmart you're going to put in, with only 2 or 3mm of preload. Basically, that rod isn't getting actuated until all full 7psi's are just about on it. That in turn, is gonna get you spooling faster.

If you check my posts here, I poo-poo'd getting a new actuator for like the first 2 years of ownership, then last year, I finally threw this guy in and I was kicking myself for not doing it earlier. I think its one of the 'musts' that you can add to IC, tune, mufflers, and catchcan list.
 
#16 ·
Was moving the heat shield out of the way a big deal?
I'm looking for EZ mods and upgrades, trying to hold off on those that will absolutely mess with my warranty like a DP & tune ;)
 
#23 ·
I've been doing alot of reading of older posts and watching of videos today to try to crack the code lol. The solution I've come to is that I will have to data log to get comparisons as well as just feeling the car out. I will say that right now at 3mm preload the car feels great but I will need to datalog to see if my numbers justify my feeling of the car.
 
#25 ·
So update: I spent the entire weekend messing with that 7psi waste gate. While the driveability of the car felt greatly improved, I couldn't get more than 21.15 psi and 283 hp and 360 ft lbs according to my AP. Which is greatly reduced from the numbers I was getting pre install with stock waste gate on pro tune. I tried many different pre loads from 1.5mm all the way to 3.5mm to no avail. Only thing I can think is my car just doesn't like turbosmart stuff( I say that because my car didn't like the dual port BOV either). I did however get very proficient at the install/Uninstall of the waste gate. I think I got my average down to about 20 minutes.
 
#26 ·
I'm sorry to hear that you weren't as successful with the 7lb spring. I thought it worked splendidly with the FP tune, but every tune is different to some degree. Just out of curiousity, did the numbers on your AP immediately return to 'normal' when you put the stock back on?
 
#27 ·
Unsure, I called it quits for the day after re installing the stock waste gate today. I have since however done quite a bit of research and what I get out of it is this. There's a **** load of pre load on the stock waste gate which is why I am able to hit 26.5 psi of boost after having been tuned. Sequentially, the same should be for the turbosmart waste gate. Maybe I needed to use more preload to mimick the boost/power results of the tune and stock waste gate. Ie, each full turn is equivalent to 1mm of pre load and also 1 psi of boost. As I was seeing 21.15 psi on 2 mm pre load(recommended by turbosmart) and 23 on 4 mm(4 full turns) what if I had pre loaded to 5,6,7 mm or 5,6,7 full turns!?!
 
#28 · (Edited)
Another thing of note:
From my understanding, Continuously upping the pressure on the spring by tightening the clevis(while achieving more boost can be had this way) at what point does it create too much stress on the waste gate and a lean fuel condition. It would seem more desirable to achieve target boost by changing springs and keeping pre load at an optimal 2-3mm which also adversely creates the need for further tuning for the increased spring size and proper fuel delivery. From the chart below, if I wanted 26lbs of boost I should up the spring size to a 10 or 12 psi spring.
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#29 ·
It reminds me of changing pulleys on a superchararger. There is an acceptable amount of playroom in pulley size to increase boost before you have to retune for the added fuel needed to address even smaller pulleys equating to more boost beyond what the current tune is meant to address.
 
#31 ·
So then I think I have my reasoning all wrong on "preload". My thought was that the more "preload" the spring has (meaning, its already into its compression, and compression of spring is what causes the wastegate to 'crack' and eventually fully open), the less ability it has to build boost, since opening the wastegate is akin to 'dumping boost' and you are technically CLOSER to opening the wastegate with more preload, than with less.

Is that true? This was my understanding unless I have it wrong. You are saying MORE preload helps build MORE boost?? Could you explain how? Thanks man.
 
#32 ·
@Whistler46 Are you custom tuned? That might also be something as to why your results weren't satisfactory. Speak with your tuner. Maybe the wastegate tables are already optimized for a stock wastegate actuator with a lot of preload? Just a thought.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Your not too far off. Pre load is put on the spring prior to installing on the turbo. When installed its already pre loaded and the gate is fully closed. So whatever pressure is on that spring is done so with the gate fully closed position which makes it harder to crack the gate open and spill out excess boost. I had to watch a crap ton of videos on waste gate operation and pre loading, myths and truths, internal vs external types.
 
#35 ·
When installed its already pre loaded and the gate is fully closed. So whatever pressure is on that spring is done so with the gate fully closed position
This fact just finally got me to visualize it the right way! You're preloading it CLOSED! I was thinking about it all wrong. So more preload will require more pressure to get that wastegate open. Hmmm...now I'm wondering if I should tinker with 3 or 4mm...
 
#37 · (Edited)
Yes, in a way increasing pre load mimics the results of a firmer spring. But shouldn't require the same tuning if your air/fuel/spark has already been adjusted for higher boost during tuning. This is my conundrum but I'm too much of a chicken pot pie to try an excessive amount of pre load on a smaller spring(7 psi vs 10-12psi) to achieve what I was already tuned for lol. Just this morning with the stock actuator back in I hit just over 25 psi just WOT to 45.
 
#38 ·
Yes, in a way increasing pre load mimics the results of a firmer spring. But shouldn't require the same tuning if your air/fuel/spark has already been adjusted for higher boost during tuning. This is my conundrum but I'm too much of a chicken pot pie to try an excessive amount of pre load on a smaller spring(7 psi vs 10-12psi) to achieve what I was already tuned for lol. Just this morning with the stock actuator back in I hit just over 25 psi just WOT to 45.
I might have to take a look at this with more trials and in a bit more detail, with some logs, as you did. My app doesn't calculate HP or Torque, but I should be able to measure peak boost on successive WOTS at a few different preload levels. So essentially, I should see higher 'peak boost' numbers with each successive preload turn? That is, until I possibly cause an overboost condition.
 
#40 ·
Update:
So with whatever happened in my specific situation, I ended up having to reset KAM and all vehicle learning because I wasn't seeing max power after all. After resetting everything I was G to G. From a 10- 40 mph wot pull I saw just over 320 hp and 400 tq with a max boost of 25.21 psi. Still need to get a wot run to prolly 60 or 70 but haven't had the chance.
 
#41 ·
Update:
So with whatever happened in my specific situation, I ended up having to reset KAM and all vehicle learning because I wasn't seeing max power after all. After resetting everything I was G to G. From a 10- 40 mph wot pull I saw just over 320 hp and 400 tq with a max boost of 25.21 psi. Still need to get a wot run to prolly 60 or 70 but haven't had the chance.
Could you link or detail the KAM reset procedure? This is basically resetting what that automatic transmission has learned from your driving technique, yes?
 
#42 · (Edited)
I searched YouTube like crazy trying to find a credible reset procedure to no avail, sadly. Only thing I could find was wonky do it yourself type videos from non credible sources. There is, however, a KAM reset function with the Cobb AP. Basically it resets everything the pcm has learned while driving with a malfunction or error code to include things like bad fuel, bad mechanical parts, air leaks and the like. It also deals with stuff with the transmission but those were separate KAM resetting features in the Cobb AP. I used the Cobb AP and didn't mess with any of the transmission options.
 
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