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I doubt that wrapping the hot side charge pipe will accomplish much, but maybe the cold side charge pipe might benefit from an insulating wrap. It really would depend on how much higher the engine bay temp is compared to the air in the charge pipe. The temp of the pipe itself is going to be somewhere between the 2 temps. Wrapping exhaust on the other has 3 main benefits. Keeping the heat out of the engine bay, increased flow efficiency, and scavenging effect. If you keep the heat out of the engine bay, then your charge pipe will be cooler and won't impart some of its heat to your charge air. The flow efficiency happens due to hotter exhaust gases having a lower density thus increasing flow. And the scavenging happens because the decreased density and increased flow means less cylinder pumping losses which results in better evacuation of the cylinder and better AFR (more power). There are other benefits, like less heat means your other engine bay components (rubber, plastic, etc..) that degrade faster when heated or exposed to frequent extreme thermal cycles will last longer.

I think I might have an extra cold side charge pipe somewhere that I could install and get a data log, then take it off and spray on some insulation and data log again to see if it made a difference. Who knows, here in Florida a few degrees can make a difference, so it might be worth investigating. However, I firmly believe the exhaust wrap is a good bang for the buck. And probably a turbo blanket also. The stock heat shield is really only a nod to controlling heat.
Hey thanks for the info I’m looking for the best turbo blanket and the exhaust wrap that is the easiest install and cost any information would be much appreciated... Vince
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
So...

Long story short, Modern Auto Performance ended up canceling the intercooler order with me. It was SUPPOSED to be their 'last batch' of Racing IC's, but they ended up just canceling that order as well. Needless to say, I was pretty upset. But they have conceded their error and are trying to make it up to me with a decent gift card.

But thankfully, almost on the same day, I found a racing style CPE by someone selling here on the forum.

Received it last week. Put it in this past Sunday.

Things of note from the install:
1) You have to be careful picking out a charge pipe kit with an intercooler. This is due to issues with the hose couplers not always fitting the way they need to be. In my case, with Injen charge pipes, and now CPE intercooler, the couplers are on the bleeding edge of the lip, cinched down at the very end of the silicone with Tbolt clamps
2) I think there's some God given rule for me that I will ALWAYS pop my charge pipe couplers after install, when I take it out for my initial spin. Because I did do that. Again. So yeah, that's when I had to play the bleeding edge of the lip game. But thankfully, after a few days of hard driving, everything has held up nicely, and the engine is purring.
3) Damn that crash bar is a pain to get off. Again, the wonders of a good impact gun would make a major difference, as those bolts were on their tight as heck.
4) I had already removed my AGS in preparation for tihs, but you actually have to go in and remove ALL THE SURROUNDING plastic part that mold into your grill, not just the AGS system itself.
5) It took me super close inspection of the instructions to realize the 'smaller' lower retention bar in front of the IC, no longer fits. I was trying to wedge it in there for like 15 minutes.


Things of note after the install:
The larger IC will still heatsoak in traffic. Our days have returned into the 80's around here, and after some hard driving, I will still see the IAT2 slowly creep up while I'm waiting at the stoplight.
However, when I get on that throttle again, it PLUMMETS, in an even much more aggressive manner as before.
You can see the heatsoak circled in blue, and the plummeting IAT2 that just about matches IAT when i'm on the throttle, in red, on this datalog I did:
35956



Lastly,

I'm running the GFB DV+ upgrade for my bypass valve. I am also running a closed element Airraid intake. I have NOT really heard the "whoosh" of the blow off in quite sometime because of this. Things have seemed to change with the larger IC. There is a definitive LOUDER whoosh that I'm hearing muffled through my intake setup. In fact, it's almost on the verge of flutter...BUT NOT QUITE. I'm fairly sure my GFB is working as it always been working (although I have yet to go in there, and crack it open just to make sure), so my guess is that the larger core size of the IC, is causing a much larger volume of pressurized air to be released in blow off? Is that why my whoosh seems so much harder and louder now? Again, the BPV tube is connected, and I have a closed element intake.

I'll take pics of the car when she's washed up and all purty. The CPE looks nice through the grill. I also got some RPI painted fog light bezels to go along with some RGB Diode Dynamic fog lights. The Nite is looking good.
 

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Hey there glad it all worked out MAP sent me my lower level IC they didn’t pack it well the open ends came dented up they made amends with a free tune 😅. My GF+ works great the power flow is so smooth just pulls like crazy!! Glad all worked out
 

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So...

Long story short, Modern Auto Performance ended up canceling the intercooler order with me. It was SUPPOSED to be their 'last batch' of Racing IC's, but they ended up just canceling that order as well. Needless to say, I was pretty upset. But they have conceded their error and are trying to make it up to me with a decent gift card.

But thankfully, almost on the same day, I found a racing style CPE by someone selling here on the forum.

Received it last week. Put it in this past Sunday.

Things of note from the install:
1) You have to be careful picking out a charge pipe kit with an intercooler. This is due to issues with the hose couplers not always fitting the way they need to be. In my case, with Injen charge pipes, and now CPE intercooler, the couplers are on the bleeding edge of the lip, cinched down at the very end of the rubber with Tbolt clamps
2) I think there's some God given rule for me that I will ALWAYS pop my charge pipe couplers after install, when I take it out for my initial spin. Because I did do that. Again. So yeah, that's when I had to play the bleeding edge of the lip game. But thankfully, after a few days of hard driving, everything has held up nicely, and the engine is purring.
3) Damn that crash bar is a pain to get off. Again, the wonders of a good impact gun would make a major difference, as those bolts were on their tight as heck.
4) I had already removed my AGS in preparation for tihs, but you actually have to go in and remove ALL THE SURROUNDING plastic part that mold into your grill, not just the AGS system itself.
5) It took me super close inspection of the instructions to realize the 'smaller' lower retention bar in front of the IC, no longer fits. I was trying to wedge it in there for like 15 minutes.


Things of note after the install:
The larger IC will still heatsoak in traffic. Our days have returned into the 80's around here, and after some hard driving, I will still see the IAT2 slowly creep up while I'm waiting at the stoplight.
However, when I get on that throttle again, it PLUMMETS, in an even much more aggressive manner as before.
You can see the heatsoak circled in blue, and the plummeting IAT2 that just about matches IAT when i'm on the throttle, in red, on this datalog I did:
View attachment 35956


Lastly,

I'm running the GFB DV+ upgrade for my bypass valve. I am also running a closed element Airraid intake. I have NOT really heard the "whoosh" of the blow off in quite sometime because of this. Things have seemed to change with the larger IC. There is a definitive LOUDER whoosh that I'm hearing muffled through my intake setup. In fact, it's almost on the verge of flutter...BUT NOT QUITE. I'm fairly sure my GFB is working as it always been working (although I have yet to go in there, and crack it open just to make sure), so my guess is that the larger core size of the IC, is causing a much larger volume of pressurized air to be released in blow off? Is that why my whoosh seems so much harder and louder now? Again, the BPV tube is connected, and I have a closed element intake.

I'll take pics of the car when she's washed up and all purty. The CPE looks nice through the grill. I also got some RPI painted fog light bezels to go along with some RGB Diode Dynamic fog lights. The Nite is looking good.
Awesome! And yes, extra volume = extra whoosh.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Awesome! And yes, extra volume = extra whoosh.
[email protected] man, I might just have to get me a blow off setup. It's coming out so hard now. Like I said, this is something I haven't really heard since I got rid of my open element GT350 CAI, and put in the Airraid. I also think the fact that the GFB holds the valve closed, until the very last second when the pressure equilibrium PRECISELY meets the breaking point, is causing it to verge on flutter. Like it sounds like its ONE hard whoosh, and then maybe a REALLY SMALL "flutter whoosh" at the end depending on how hard I was on the throttle.

Do you think I should be concerned about that?

I'll see if I can grab a video of it, but it might be hard to recreate with the car in neutral, and without a true load.
 

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[email protected] man, I might just have to get me a blow off setup. It's coming out so hard now. Like I said, this is something I haven't really heard since I got rid of my open element GT350 CAI, and put in the Airraid. I also think the fact that the GFB holds the valve closed, until the very last second when the pressure equilibrium PRECISELY meets the breaking point, is causing it to verge on flutter. Like it sounds like its ONE hard whoosh, and then maybe a REALLY SMALL "flutter whoosh" at the end depending on how hard I was on the throttle.

Do you think I should be concerned about that?

I'll see if I can grab a video of it, but it might be hard to recreate with the car in neutral, and without a true load.
Depending on the design of the BOV it usually sounds off in one loud whoosh or a series. Yours may be making the double sounds because of the electronic control by the ECU which has to read the sensors to respond......this is one of the reasons I advocate a mechanical BOV. I’m not sure if your tuner can do anything about it through the tune, you should reach out to them and ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Check it out. It basically just takes the existing BOV and modifies it with a brass piston fitting, and better springs. The piston is engineered to "hold closed" due to the pinhole in the middle used to regulate the equilibrium tipping point. So as you can see, basically applying pressure to the piston, the piston can still hold closed even if the ECU has already commanded the solenoid to pull back....until an equilibrium point is reached, and the valve bursts open. I think its such a large volume of air, at the very last second, that maybe the piston can't open quick enough to evacuate it all, so the tail end might get caught in some flutter?

 

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I'm running the GVB DV+ VTA which is the same as yours @gatornek , except it vents to atmosphere. I also have the ATM IC which has a large volume, and I'm not experiencing any secondary venting after the intial venting, unless I start accelerating again in the middle of venting and let off again.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'm running the GVB DV+ VTA which is the same as yours @gatornek , except it vents to atmosphere. I also have the ATM IC which has a large volume, and I'm not experiencing any secondary venting after the intial venting, unless I start accelerating again in the middle of venting and let off again.
I might not be hearing it right. Years of fixing air radar in the Marines and getting sonic booms dropped on me weren't kind to my eardrums. Like I said, it is still somewhat muffled because my CAI is closed and the hose is recirculating, so I might not be hearing it correctly. I just definitely noticed a harder more sustained whoosh, though, and started thinking about what the factors were. If I get a chance to post a video of the sound, I will. Thanks bro.
 

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Check it out. It basically just takes the existing BOV and modifies it with a brass piston fitting, and better springs. The piston is engineered to "hold closed" due to the pinhole in the middle used to regulate the equilibrium tipping point. So as you can see, basically applying pressure to the piston, the piston can still hold closed even if the ECU has already commanded the solenoid to pull back....until an equilibrium point is reached, and the valve bursts open. I think its such a large volume of air, at the very last second, that maybe the piston can't open quick enough to evacuate it all, so the tail end might get caught in some flutter?

I ordered one of those several weeks ago to try out and see if maybe I was wrong in my assumption, tried out Boombas offering also, I sent both back.
In Kewlwinters post above he vents to atmosphere and doesn’t have the issue you are, I think that is the key for you also. It’s probably why you are experiencing the double sound, since yours dumps back to the intake the sensors are going “oh ****” too much pressure and partially venting again.
 

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I always worry about dumping high boost pressure back into the intake side. You end up with a high pressure spike on intake side, the turbo picks up that pressurized air and tries to pressurize it more, so you end up with more pressure on the cold side that has to be vented, which is probably that slight secondary venting you are hearing. I don't think its a problem, since it looks like the PCM is handling it.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I bet that CPE intercooler is nice. I bought their catted downpipe on here from the same seller and, although I've yet to install it, the fabrication and finish seem to be of a high quality. 👍🏼
Seller turned out to be legit. Brand new CPE delta core racing style IC, still in the box, and with the goodie bag still sealed.
 
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