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I now work in the forklift industry. Where I work there a lot of former auto techs that now do forklifts. Some were from independents and some were dealerships. I was able to ask this question to a former Ford dealer tech. His response was do you want to screw with the AFR, do you want to possibly cause over boost and do want to increase the exhaust gas temp. Now will I use these types of cleaning? No way. I'll use his method, a case of beer and a can of heavy duty carb cleaner the manual way. According to him it is about 4 hours of work.

PS: You should have seen the look on his face when I asked him the question.
 

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I find that mechanics tend to be long on opinion and short on factual data.

In regards to AFR, your car runs in closed loop which means it will adjust the amount of fuel being injected to meet the target AFR. Since the CRC spray will displace air in the cylinders less fuel will need to be injected to meet the target AFR.

There is no boost associated with one of these treatments. The engine is running at a fast idle speed. No boost no danger of over boost. Plus you inject the material down stream of the turbo so the turbo does not see the material.

Not sure why there would be any expectation of higher exhaust temps, the AFR and timing will be the same. Even if it was higher it only takes a minute to spray in a can of material.

If i was inclined to remove the intake manifold to clean the valves i would be using walnut shell or plastic bead blasting. If you were to try the solvent cleaning method mentioned the CRC material would be a better choice than carb cleaner.

Dave
 

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I find that mechanics tend to be long on opinion and short on factual data.

In regards to AFR, your car runs in closed loop which means it will adjust the amount of fuel being injected to meet the target AFR. Since the CRC spray will displace air in the cylinders less fuel will need to be injected to meet the target AFR.

There is no boost associated with one of these treatments. The engine is running at a fast idle speed. No boost no danger of over boost. Plus you inject the material down stream of the turbo so the turbo does not see the material.

Not sure why there would be any expectation of higher exhaust temps, the AFR and timing will be the same. Even if it was higher it only takes a minute to spray in a can of material.

If i was inclined to remove the intake manifold to clean the valves i would be using walnut shell or plastic bead blasting. If you were to try the solvent cleaning method mentioned the CRC material would be a better choice than carb cleaner.

Dave
Dave, what’s your process for using CRC for the Mustang please (I’m a newbie and don’t want to spray in the wrong spot)? Any concerns on doing it for the first time with 45k miles? Or should I try to borescope things first? Thanks!
 

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Dave, what’s your process for using CRC for the Mustang please (I’m a newbie and don’t want to spray in the wrong spot)? Any concerns on doing it for the first time with 45k miles? Or should I try to borescope things first? Thanks!
Why do you think your valves need cleaning? Are you having a specific problem that indicates dirty valves?
 

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I guess I’m thinking that if I were to go down the chemical route it would be better to do it at 45,000 versus 100,000 miles. But no issues per se that I know of. Once in a while the car will upshift just when I want to accelerate so my RPMs drop a little unexpectedly. That might be more due to the computer figuring out the drop in filter?
 

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Dave, what’s your process for using CRC for the Mustang please (I’m a newbie and don’t want to spray in the wrong spot)? Any concerns on doing it for the first time with 45k miles? Or should I try to borescope things first? Thanks!
I have a UPR catch can that has quick connects at the can. I just disconnect the hose at the can that goes to the intake manifold and spray it in there.

There is also a vacuum line that connects to the intake manifold right behind the throttle body or you could remove the cold side hose from the throttle body.

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I guess I’m thinking that if I were to go down the chemical route it would be better to do it at 45,000 versus 100,000 miles. But no issues per se that I know of. Once in a while the car will upshift just when I want to accelerate so my RPMs drop a little unexpectedly. That might be more due to the computer figuring out the drop in filter?
I had the air/fuel induction cleaning done by a Ford dealership at exactly 40k miles prior to getting an ECU flash and having a catch can installed because I wanted to clean up any deposits on the valves. A couple of days after the service a cloud of black soot shot out the tail pipes and fouled O2 sensors at the same time. I still have the soot on my garage door from that event. When I brought the car back to the Ford dealership to replace the O2 sensors they said it wasn't covered under warranty because I had a aftermarket downpipe.

I'm glad I got the service done and cleaned up the carbon deposits even though it fouled out my O2 sensors and would recommend the service. I get this service on our Hyundai's every 30k miles I believe and never had any problems with black soot of fouled O2 sensors.

 

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Wow. Dave, the CRC folks are telling me just to go through the air tube right after the air box. Thoughts?
You could but doing it that way you are going through the turbo and the intercooler too. I would prefer to avoid coating all those surfaces.

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I guess I’m thinking that if I were to go down the chemical route it would be better to do it at 45,000 versus 100,000 miles. But no issues per se that I know of. Once in a while the car will upshift just when I want to accelerate so my RPMs drop a little unexpectedly. That might be more due to the computer figuring out the drop in filter?
Also, on bore scoping... The only scoping I have done is though the spark plug hole and all I was able to see was the inside of the combustion chamber. Or are you planning to scope from another location?
 

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I guess I’d have to remove the manifold cover so scoping has limited value? I haven’t dug in yet into how to do it. Not many YouTube videos out there.
 

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So... I asked my mechanic (adding a small resonator anyway to reduce drone a bit) to consider doing the intake cleaning job. He said it's not worth it given his experience and if anything he'd do the CRC thing. So, about 500 miles before my next oil change that's what I plan to do. Dave, if you don't mind, of the options you listed as to where to inject the stuff, what's easiest? The CRC folks didn't think it would be a problem with the turbo or intercooler but if you have an Option B to suggest that's just about as easy (with some instructions if you don't mind), that would be super appreciated. Thanks!!!
 
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