Ford Mustang Ecoboost Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are all the Common problems?

I have already encountered my first problem on my new car. The paint scratches really easy, so I sent it out to get it ceramic coated and have a PPF installed on the front. I would like to get everyone input on all the common issues so I can address potential weak points on the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,602 Posts
Use a good quality SN Plus motor oil and change it often. Also use a quality fuel, 89 octane minium, preferably 91/93 octane.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Use a good quality SN Plus motor oil and change it often. Also use a quality fuel, 89 octane minium, preferably 91/93 octane.
I totally agree with you, since it is a turbocharge direct injection engine I am assuming that the engine will require 91 octane for ideal street performance. It should also require premium engine oil with frequent oil changes, and a careful observation for possible oil consumption. Followed by counteracting the effects of the direct injection engine by using a oil catch can to minimized build-up on the valves, using premium fuel, and on rare occasion the use of a 3-part cleaner for the intake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Have you guys seen any other issues with built quality? Maybe exterior, interior, reliable, turbo leaks, engine, transmission, brakes, electrical, or etc. ?
 

·
Registered
2020 Ecoboost Premium 10R80 w/ Black Acct Pckg
Joined
·
69 Posts
I would say I haven't seen any glaring issues, I did find a few loose panels on mine but easily popped them back into place and have had zero issues since. I also had issues when I first got the car and it turned out that it had barely any auto trans fluid in the trans. Dealership fixed that issue and after double checking everything ended up getting the FP Tune after that. I would also be mindful of the oil you put in there in terms of weight. If you plan to take it to the track, make sure to change the oil before hand and use 5w-50 (I think this is the one recommended for track use and the HPP) otherwise its 5w-30 or (0W-30 if you live in a crazy cold location). Haven't found/heard any rattles yet but mine is also a 2020 with fairly minimal miles due to me working from home (and I don't have an aftermarket exhaust nor do I turn up the bass excessively).
 

·
Registered
2017 PP MT DD
Joined
·
1,236 Posts
Not sure I would agree the paint scratches easy. My car lives outside mainly in one of the harshes environments on the planet it's no more or less scratched up then any other car I have.

Problems I have encountered.

The original p zeros were absolute ****

The car should have come with mud flaps as the rear 1/4 gets attacked with little rocks like a helicopter gun ship on a seek and destroy mission in Beiruit.

The bonnet had to be replaced and the seam welds started corroded.

Suspension front control arm bushing failed

Reverse camera stopped working due to short length of cable in boot

Paint defect on rear alloy

Drivers heated seat stopped working

Drivers seat started to crack

All got fixed under warranty. Only struggle I had was with the suspension but once they understood what I was talking about they fixed it no issues.

Things that annoy me.

There is not enough adjustment on the rear view mirror or the off side passenger mirror yet the housing itself is over enginnered. If you have to ever take it apart you know what I'm talking about.

Australian domestic markets didn't come with tri bar DRL's on the phase one model nor did the shaker pro come with a sub but hay we get a space saver spare wheel.

Although only the GT has been tested it it only achieved 2.5 star NCAP rating which it pretty **** safety score for a new car.
 
  • Like
Reactions: eddiejay

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was looking at the website Car Complaints. Overall the Mustang reliability seems to be improving every year, but it still looks like Ford has a good number Technical Service Bulletins for the Mustang.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I also have a 2020 ecoboost HPP-HP A10. First owner, daily driver picked up june 2020. Has just over 35k miles on it. Ive been hearing & feeling the trans / rear diff making noise when getting in and out of park / reverse / drive. Sometimes it jerks so hard it kicks you. The front end sounds like something is not working right as well. You can hear way too much out of the front end, such as clunking when entering a driveway or speed bump at like 5mph. I took it to the dealer and they said “car drives fine, all normal, shift easier”… and couldnt get the issues to replicate. That was last summer, had these issues since the car was brand new. They’ve only gotten worse. Will be making another appointment asap with a manager. Hopefully theyll be able to fix it as this car is a lot of fun when running right
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
I also have a 2020 ecoboost HPP-HP A10. First owner, daily driver picked up june 2020. Has just over 35k miles on it. Ive been hearing & feeling the trans / rear diff making noise when getting in and out of park / reverse / drive. Sometimes it jerks so hard it kicks you. The front end sounds like something is not working right as well. You can hear way too much out of the front end, such as clunking when entering a driveway or speed bump at like 5mph. I took it to the dealer and they said “car drives fine, all normal, shift easier”… and couldnt get the issues to replicate. That was last summer, had these issues since the car was brand new. They’ve only gotten worse. Will be making another appointment asap with a manager. Hopefully theyll be able to fix it as this car is a lot of fun when running right
My wife had a 2018 A10, had to get the rear diff replaced. Similar issues to you, clunky shifts / reverse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,040 Posts
I have only had two official issues with the car (currently approaching 4 years in a couple of weeks or so, just crossed 40K km/~25K miles) and that was a left rear shock leaking very early on and the charcoal canister had a recall on it. Lately it seems to be making more front end noise than I like going into the driveway at the office (over the curbing) and have begun to notice a harsher 4-3 downshift in D coasting up to a stoplight. The latter seems to improve somewhat when the transmission is warm but I will continue to monitor, as if there is an issue, I certainly want that fixed while under power train warranty. Some groans out of the interior but not major and seems to only be in the cool or cold weather, but I also write that off as the price of being topless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
^ @johnnybee i took the mustang to mcalpine ford today and the tech who worked on the car confirmed the front control arm / ball joint has failed and is being replaced under warranty. He also noticed the trans / rear end issues but this dealer doesnt have a transmission technician so they made me an appointment at a nearby dealer with a trans tech. Will update after the appointment on july 11. I got a video of when the tech moved the car and you can clearly see / hear the jerking&clunking issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,040 Posts
^ @johnnybee i took the mustang to mcalpine ford today and the tech who worked on the car confirmed the front control arm / ball joint has failed and is being replaced under warranty. He also noticed the trans / rear end issues but this dealer doesnt have a transmission technician so they made me an appointment at a nearby dealer with a trans tech. Will update after the appointment on july 11. I got a video of when the tech moved the car and you can clearly see / hear the jerking&clunking issues.
What is your current mileage? I am out of bumper-to-bumper but purchased extended warranty (predominately for the top mechanism), I would just have to pay the $100 deductible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
59,500km lol. I also have the extended warranty 7 years/120km. Tech said if I had come in next week, it would have still been covered under the extended warranty less the deductible
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,040 Posts
59,500km lol. I also have the extended warranty 7 years/120km. Tech said if I had come in next week, it would have still been covered under the extended warranty less the deductible
Ahh, I got 7 year/100K km, as I knew once I retired I wouldn’t be putting much on it. I just rolled over 40K and hitting 4 years (and am retiring next Friday). I’ll run out of time long before mileage. It’s a little depressing that you’re doing that work at that mileage. They certainly don’t seem to be built to last these days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I got my 16' ecoboost (purchased october 2015) brand new and when I got my car I wanted to do simple mods to make it more reliable and more fun.

I did:
Muffler delete
ETS intercooler
colder spark plugs
Intake for turbo noise

At no point did I want to tune my car or try to squeeze more power out of the sensitive 2.3 motor so I ignored some things that a lot of guys reported and I wish I hadn't.

#1 thing you should do to your car, change the junk wastegate (I've had 2 from 2 different engines/turbos a 16 and a 20', both malfunctioned, both crap) and get an OEM replacement TurboSmart 7lbs actuator. Besides the intercooler, this made the biggest difference in driving feel and seems to be good for engine longevity.

#2 Intercooler.. Unless you live somewhere cold and even then, you need a better intercooler. The oem intercooler is complete trash and will heat soak immediately which will not only rob you of power but it isn't great to have blazing hot charge air temps going into your motor.

#3 Factory air intake with a better filter + opening up the grille intake works best in my experience.. I've had 2 aftermarket intakes, none did better than the factory intake with the holes in the grille drilled out for more airflow + a green filter.

#4 Tires.. The Pirelli all season tires are terrible.. The rears didn't last 3k miles before going completely bald and they were bad in rain and overpriced to replace. I tried Sumitomo HTR Z, Hankook Ventus V12 and General GMax RS. Personally I recommend the GMax RS for price and performance but all 3 are much better value than the stock Pirelli's.

Some issues I had with my car that were fixed under warranty:
-Broken air vents
-Evaporator core leak
-Purge Valve
-Low pressure fuel sensor
-Right rear axle broke/replaced twice (Clunked really hard when putting it in drive/reverse but car drove fine otherwise, I thought the transmission was going out)
-Back Up Camera
-Downpipe/Catalytic converter - I was told the cat melted and needed to be replaced.. this caused an awful buzzing sound around 3k rpm, I thought the turbo was bad, although eventually the turbo did go bad and I replaced out of pocket.. Lol.
-Door seal, this fell apart rather quickly, had it replaced once, needs to be replaced again..

Keep in mind my car was stock tuned and I barely put miles on it. Eventually my motor went out due to a combination of bad quality gas (only ever put 93 in it but this time it seems the fuel at this station was bad), a broken spark plug, overboost, and a bad head gasket, replaced it with a 20' motor.

I can't stress enough, if you care about longevity replace the wastegate and intercooler immediately. The added performance is just icing on the cake. It's not going to give you more power but it will finally perform as intended if the bean counters at Ford didn't cut corners on these components. If you're still under warranty I can understand the hesitation to change engine components but I'd do it for piece of mind and then change it back if I had to take it to the dealer for any reason. (I did that with the ETS intercooler and intake.)
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top