I finally placed my order for a CP-E intercooler. This is a stock replacement. I’ve decided to save money by installing it myself. Any tips, suggestions, and general advice on the install is greatly appreciated.

Three steps that I am most concerned about:
1. Removing front without breaking anything.


2. Disassembling and reassembling the active shutters.


3. Ensuring the pipes stay connected to the IC once installed.

Thanks in advance!
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1. Removing front without breaking anything.
- Don't forget to remove ALL of the hardware that attaches the front fascia to the car; inside the hood under the radiator cover, plus 2 more under a rubber piece at the outer edges (1ea), plus 2 more inside the wheel well (1ea) that holds the sides on.

2. Disassembling and reassembling the active shutters.
- I didn't have any when I got that point, removed previously for some reason. Honestly I wouldn't worry about this as many have said they are technically not needed.

3. Ensuring the pipes stay connected to the IC once installed.
- Use a little soapy water to connect the hoses to the flanges on the IC. Wiggling and pushing as hard you can to make sure they are fully seated, then hold in place while tightening the clamp around them. Make sure those clamps are tight.

In addition, I would highly recommend removing the top radiator support brackets (1 on each side) so you can maneuver the radiator around a little if needed.

 

Thanks Ecovert17. I’ve read that getting the stock IC out is a royal pain. Sounds like giving the radiator room to move (vertically) will help that. Appreciate the tip.


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Removing the bumper cover is actually pretty easy. Just don't pull on it, if it doesn't come right off something is still connected. There are lots of YouTube videos showing how to take it off. I would recommend picking up a trim tool for taking the pins out of the plastic fasteners.

I didn't have to remove the shutters or take them apart. I did remove the support bolts on the face bar so I could move them around.

All the ICs I have seen have a very prominent bead on the hose connections. As long as the hose is all the way on and the clamp is on the IC side of the bead there is little chance the hose will come off.

Dave

 

Thanks Dave. This is the first time I have taken the front off a car. So I am probably being a little paranoid (grin). I just recently picked up a trim tool for those plastic fasteners. Hopefully that will stop them from breaking. From what I am gathering the key to front removal is not forgetting to remove those two end bolts/screws under those flaps and the sides.

So it sounds like I may not have to remove the shutters, which is good. Hopefully just loosening a bolt or two will give it enough play to make room for extracting the IC.

I appreciate the advice.



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Here is a link to my MAP IC install thread. There's some detail there that can help shed some light.

https://www.mustangecoboost.net/threads/map-intercooler-install.17815/

Specifically & quickly:

1) The bolts in the wheel well are a major pain. I'd remove the wheel well cowling entirely. The biggest issue for the 2015-17 was the super fragile clips. However, I believe they fixed the design in the 2018, if I'm not mistaken. Regardless, if you simply push up on the bumper, so you 'release the pressure' on the clips, and GENTLY and SLOWLY pop them out, you should be good.

2) For a 'stock' location IC, you technically don't have to completely remove the AGS. If you undo a couple of bolts near the bottom, that should allow you enough room to bend the AGS out of the way, so you can slide in the IC.

3) Ha! that's the main issue I had in my install. I was rushed, and went out and did an IMMEDIATE 0-60 as soon as I pulled out of the garage. Hot side popped off. Not smart.

Clamp well on install. Go out, and putter around, give it some throttle here and there, but don't go maxed out. Then, come back in and retighten. I'm gonna do my charge pipes in a few weeks, so this is going to be of even more importance, as I will have 8 clamps to deal with instead of 2.

 

Thanks Gatornek. I sure hope those clips were improved on in 2018+. That will definitely reduce my angst with the front.

It sounds like the AGS is not as bad as I am thinking. I watched a YouTube vid and the guy struggled a bit with them. Sounds like loosening a few bolts will suffice.

Reading your experience (and some others) with the pipes prompted this last question. I also read here or somewhere that using some hairspray on the IC connections can help things.

I appreciate the advice.



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P.S. I heard hairspray works... though I opted for soapy water. Sprayed a little on the flange, twisted and turned and pushed the hose (ducting) over the flange until I couldn't push anymore. Tightened clamp around hose as tight as I could get. So far, no problems.

 

Looks like you've gotten a lot of good advice.

I'm running the CPE stock replacement IC and honestly didn't have any issues with the install. I chose to take out and remove the active grille shutters when I did mine. It doesn't pop up any active codes without them. Keeping or removing them is just a personal call.

Just take your time and everything should go well.

 

Thanks @zhent. I debated on whether to leave the shutters in or take them out. So long as they don't cause me much grief with the install I will probably leave them in.

 

Well, I did it. I installed my cp-e intercooler this morning. It took 4 hours, but everything went smooth. The most challenging part of the install was removing the stock IC. However, it only took about 15 minutes to work it out. I also spent a little extra time reinstalling the pipes. CP-E provided some really good clamps. The intake tubes also have an upper and lower lip, so I think they should hold up okay. I decided not to reinstall the AGS. Not because it would have been difficult, I just didn't like how much they obstruct things.

Since I have a high-flow air filter and the IC I went to Cobb Stage 2 (93). The car drives a lot different than before. I am not sure if it's the IC, the tune, or both. It actually performs now how I was expecting it to perform when I installed the Stage 1 (93).

Well, thanks to everyone for your pointers, tips, and advice. I am so glad that I did the work and saved myself some cash in the process. Here are some pics I took to celebrate the occasion.

 

Well, I did it. I installed my cp-e intercooler this morning. It took 4 hours, but everything went smooth. The most challenging part of the install was removing the stock IC. However, it only took about 15 minutes to work it out. I also spent a little extra time reinstalling the pipes. CP-E provided some really good clamps. The intake tubes also have an upper and lower lip, so I think they should hold up okay. I decided not to reinstall the AGS. Not because it would have been difficult, I just didn't like how much they obstruct things.

Since I have a high-flow air filter and the IC I went to Cobb Stage 2 (93). The car drives a lot different than before. I am not sure if it's the IC, the tune, or both. It actually performs now how I was expecting it to perform when I installed the Stage 1 (93).

Well, thanks to everyone for your pointers, tips, and advice. I am so glad that I did the work and saved myself some cash in the process. Here are some pics I took to celebrate the occasion.

Great pics! Nice job. That cp-e with the tune is going to make that car hum.

 

Does anyone happen to know, how much it would cost to have a shop put a intercooler in with charge pipes?

 

What you always need to get quoted is "how long is this job going to take", and "how much do you charge per hour". Here in Miami, unless you know the guy, or have been 'referred' to him by someone that does....you can usually expect $100/hour labor charges for 'performance upgrades' like an IC and pipe swap out. Most shops will probably quote you at 3 hours. Many might try to say 4. So, on average, in Miami, you will pay a MINIMUM of $300 for what you are asking.

PS - On a side note, I recently got 'referred' to a 'buddy', who has a full garage shop and the guy has been doing $40/hour labor work for me. He quotes me stiff hours on easy jobs (always a minimum of 3), but he's going to put in a complete steeda subframe package for me at 3 hours of work and $40/hour. Not bad at all and easily a 'steal' here in Miami. Cash transaction only.

 

I finally placed my order for a CP-E intercooler. This is a stock replacement. I’ve decided to save money by installing it myself. Any tips, suggestions, and general advice on the install is greatly appreciated.

Three steps that I am most concerned about:

1. Removing front without breaking anything.

2. Disassembling and reassembling the active shutters.

3. Ensuring the pipes stay connected to the IC once installed.

Thanks in advance!




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I’m about to do this same exact install. Any tips on the process? I’m
Thinking remove all top fasteners for the bumper as well as the ones in the fender well and then jack the car up to get the bottom screws and then remove the bumper.

What process did you take and what would you have done differently?

 

I’m about to do this same exact install. Any tips on the process? I’m
Thinking remove all top fasteners for the bumper as well as the ones in the fender well and then jack the car up to get the bottom screws and then remove the bumper.

What process did you take and what would you have done differently?

Get ready to read.

intercooler install site:mustangecoboost.net - Google Search