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Do you regret not getting the performance package?

37K views 45 replies 21 participants last post by  zhent  
#1 ·
If I had to guess, I'd say maybe 10% of the used EcoBoost listings I've looked at have the performance package. That's currently the number 2 option I'm looking for after Lightning Blue for a color. I think the car will handle better, be a little quicker with the 3:55 gear and look better with the 19" wheels. I'm not a fan of the all black wheels but I can live with them.

Does anyone regret not getting this package?
 
#2 ·
I would have regretted it, but I bought new and specifically went looking for a Performance Pack car. The upgrades for the price on the performance package are very well worth it.
 
#16 ·
This is one of the main reasons I bought my car. My car is a 17 base 6mt PP. One of the best bang for the buck configurations available. The bigger radiator, brake upgrade and suspension tweaks really help the car. If you are willing to be flexible on color and transmission choice, there are probably starting to deal on leftover 18's.

There is an 18 premium PP automatic 6300 miles Magnetic color in Leavenworth KS advertised on car gurus for 26.8k, just doing a quick search. If you can pick up that car for 25, I would think that's a great deal. You can ship the car.
 
#3 ·
I don't regret not getting it. If that makes sense. Back NH, a buddy bought a 2015 Mustang GT with the PP for a dd. When he realized he couldn't do a rim/wheel/ snow-tire swap out because of the brembo brakes he was livid. I specifically didn't want the PP for that reason because I wasn't 100% sure we were heading to AZ yet, and because of the deal I got on this one.

You can always do the suspension upgrade (even for the PP) with the Ford Performance Handling Track Package (on sale at CJ PP for $1200.00), do all the mods yourself, (tune, CAI, downpipe, bigger IC, on, and on...) The only thing you'll be missing is the larger wheels and brakes.

Here is where I lucked out with 19" wheels stock... So it's just the breaks I'd need to upgrade (along with the Track Pack suspension).

IMO, make you're on PP Mustang, then you'll have no regrets.
 
#4 ·
I just did a nationwide dealer search for 2018s and '19s. Just found one on the other side of the country. Then started searching used 2017/'18 models. Nothing based on having the PP and color I want. Color is important to me. I can't change that but like you mentioned, I can do most of the other upgrades if I want to. 3:55 gears is the other thing it would be missing.
 
#7 ·
I think I’m going to bump the performance package from “must have” have list. As much as I would like to have it, the looks of the car are more important to me. It will be much easier to find the color/wheel combination I want on a car that doesn’t have the PP. Plus I’ll be looking at the car and driving it normal a lot more than I’ll be pushing it hard to take advantage of what the package has to offer. Still hoping to get lucky though.
 
#9 ·
You will not regret getting the performance pack if I were in your position I would definitely get it for the EcoBoost.also the dash looks way cooler with the extra gauges.and love the the better stopping power of the performance pack brakes
 
#10 ·
My 2018 Premium Plus was purchased used. If it had the PP, I probably would have still purchased it. I have no intention of racing this car, and the fuel economy of the taller rear end gearing is more important to me than have a 149 MPH top speed limit. I also run snow tires, and I can run 17" rims in the winter which makes the tires much less expensive than 18" snow tires.

Maybe I am getting old and soft, but the Premium Plus options are more important to me than what the Performance Pack options would be.
 
#11 ·
The aftermarket tuners probably take care of the top speed limiter?
 
#14 ·
The best part of the performance pack are the brakes and additional gauges. Its a $2k factory option, and to upgrade the brakes you're looking at 1000-1500. That alone sold me on it, also the gauges are handy being front and center and that's not something I would want to try to install on a non pp car(dash fascia, gauges, wiring, etc). Suspension and rear diff are easy upgrades but if you like big brakes I'd hold off and find the car you really want. hope this helps!
 
#15 ·
I purchased my 15 Premium used with 4800 miles and do not regret getting a non-PP car. The guages are not needed really, since they are in the cluster menu, and the suspension is an item I will be upgrading anyways. The brake conversion to PP brakes was only about $350 and were an easy upgrade. I enjoy working on and upgrading my car myself as I can see and feel the differences the upgrades made. It's part of the joy of a car to me, to work on it, build it to what you want and be proud of your work. If it were a PP car I would still have purchased it, but it had to be a premium as I love the interior.
 
#17 ·
Maybe it's something about having the PP on a blue car. I just searched Car Gurus with that being the only option I required. Came up with 15 vehicles in most colors except for blue. I'm pretty much set on Lightning Blue. Would take Kona if I found it with the performance package. After about 8 hours of searching in the last two days, I've narrowed it down to one that I'm interested in. It's a CPO car with the Premium package. I'm going to take a break from searching to give this one some thought.

While looking at '19s, I've come across a number of dealers offering discounts in the $5K range. Employee pricing plus current discounts from Ford.
 
#18 ·
Don't stress yourself out. It's supposed to be fun. If your happy with the price, buy the car. My number one criteria for purchase was the fun to drive factor. I knew on the test drive the car would be going home with me.

By the way, I am saving up to ditch the wheels for something lighter with better tires, looking at MMR and Apex. Wheel change is one of the more common mods.
 
#19 ·
Not stressed. Just trying to find what I want and get the most for my money. I'm also trying not to get carried away. This started off as me looking for a Mustang convertible for about $20K. Just a fun, sporty car to drive when it's nice out and maybe take it to the track once in awhile. Then I started doing research that showed me the difference between the 2017s and '18s. That shouldn't matter because this isn't going to be a race car but... I had many years in the high performance industry so wanting the fastest comes natural. I know a GT wouldn't be a good financial purchase so I'm doing pretty good there. Now it's finding something I'll be happy with. I think an '18 will be a good purchase. More torque and the 10 speed auto. I can do some upgrades to make up for the PP if I get that deep into it.

It's fairly easy to buy new cars. It's easy to get invoice pricing and there are sometimes factory incentives available. Fairly level playing field. Used cars are different. The dealer has to make money to stay in business but the customer doesn't want to pay more than they should for the vehicle.
 
#20 ·
I bought my 2015 Premium used, and it didn't have the PP. I regret it, but I also payed a lot less for the car than if it were NEW. And the car still had some warranty left on it when I bought it.

That said, It is possible to build-up to the PP, and depending how you do it, it might cost less in total?

I've installed some of the upgrades myself, not at a shop, that saves on man-hours. Also, My strut tower brace is used. And my calipers are used. I haven't done the whole setup yet, the rotors and pads will be new.

What bothers me the most is parts that I will probably never change, mostly because given a choice I will likely cheap out and that option. For example, I will probably never get around to changing my rear gear ratio or upgrade it to torsen. On some years the PP is supposed to include an improved radiator, but I have very little information on this, and haven't found the official one on eBay.

The suspension I'll probably wait a few years until I feel it needs to be serviced anyway. And then I'll probably upgrade the springs and service at the same time.

The tune. I really don't need the car to go any faster. My older car was way slower, and I'm still not bored of the speed I'm getting. Besides, I believe that without a tune the engine will stress less and last longer. So I will probably hold on this until other elements of the PP have been installed. And If i do go for a tune, I might consider the "ford performance" option.
 
#21 ·
I have not ridden in a PP car, so I can't really say for sure. All I know is that I was looking for a cruiser, so the "softer" non-PP ride certainly doesn't bother me. Also, as a daily driver, through winter, made it very simple to buy tires (I am using the standard 17" Ecoboost rim with the stock size).
 
#22 ·
I have had two Ecoboost Mustangs with PP. Here are my thoughts.

1. I have never driven a PP back to back with a non PP but my recollection of the ride differences a couple of days apart was the PP was not enough stiffer riding to be a consideration of not getting it.
2. I daily driver mine and never push it enough to find the limits of the handling of the brakes.
3. While the two gauges in the middle of the dash are cool they are quite useless when driving. They need to be angled toward the driver to be effectively seen while driving. I have been playing with ForScan and have found the codes to change, to turn the boost gauge back on in the center display and will be doing that this weekend.



Dave
 
#23 · (Edited)
I wouldn't recommend getting the PP unless you plan to take your car to the track at least a few times a year. The cash difference is not worth it for a daily driver. And if you are getting an EcoBoost over a more expensive base model, cash is probably a factor one way or the other.

* You're unlikely to reach the limits of the brakes outside of a track. I don't have the PP brakes yet, and it takes me over 5 laps of driving hard at a track for the brakes to start feeling too hot. They feel a little faded, but not to the point where it's a big problem. And I still haven't tried better pads meant for track days. I have hawk HPS (not even the HPS 5.0) and probably should be using the street/race or HP+.

* If you want the car lowered, the PP would probably not be enough for you in that aspect. The PP is stiffer, not that much lower. You'd probably be happier with a set of lowering springs from any of the various manufacturers. These would typically lower about an inch. And there's even an option from Ford Performance.
 
#25 ·
FYI, the op that guy already bought a car. :)
 
#26 ·
Yes, I bought a Lightning Blue 2018 convertible with the Premium Package. I would have liked to have the Performance Package but I couldn't find the color that I wanted with it. And the Premium Package wasn't on my radar at all. I never expected to buy a car with it. Those features will kind of make up for not having the factory performance upgrades. Well, during daily driving but not on the track.
 
#27 ·
I opted for the PP, in fact, I fully refused to consider any non-PP cars. The 3.55 final drive and the Torsion differential are the main drivers, as the 3.15 ratio on a 26.7" tire is unacceptably tall, like the factory 2.73 on a 25" tire 79-04 Mustang. With my previous cars, a gear swap was no big deal, and usually among the first order of business, but after dealing with setup hassles and bearings in S197 cars, I resolved to avoid doing gear swaps whenever possible. The suspension bits are a nice upgrade as well but are take it/leave it for me, the performance aftermarket can do a pretty good job of handling for not too much money. The larger radiator and bigger brakes are a huge secondary selling point for me, while the larger brakes do not necessarily shorten stopping distances, they will support more aggressive use through thermal management. Fitting winter tires was a concern for me but the price of my studded Pirelli's between 17 and 18" was a mere $5/tire, and I had wheels available to clear GT500 brakes, so fitment was not a problem.

Finishing up with the additional interior appointments are a nice icing on the cake. I usually do my own interior gauges on cars, but visual integration with the S197 and S550 dashboards is much harder to avoid the "tacked" on appearance of pods and pillars that are completely at home in Vintage, Fox and SN95 cars alike. Aside from the oil temp (useful) and boost (just a bobblehead) much of my datalogging will be done through OBD 2 and a smart device, so finding a permanent home for that is hardly important.

Overall the Performance Package for $3000 CDN on my car is pretty much paid for if I were to do a post purchase gear swap and Torsion alone, so I see a lot of value in the entire group of features.
 
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#29 ·
I bought slightly used. The performance pack was never on my radar. Having had cars with tuned suspensions, they are fun at first but soon get tiresome. I didn’t drive a PP during my test drives, but my mates wife has a GT with the PP and he says the ride is quite stiff. I like the ride of my current car and it handles perfectly well. That being said, I am considering getting some PP 19” replicas to replace my current 18’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#30 ·
Old thread, but that's cool.

Back in October, I traded in my '17 Fiesta ST with $8K in mods for my CPO '16 base auto. I wasn't concerned with the PP at the time. The miles were a super low 16K and the price was rated "Great" according to Autotrader. It came with 19" wheels, machined aluminum/carbon dash trim and a rear spoiler. Not sure if the foglights were part of some appearance package, but it's got those too:cool:
Mostly driving Phx surface streets during peak traffic times, an auto was a MUST! Constantly shifting the ST in bumper to bumper, stop & go was driving me nuts! Also, the ST stock suspension was ridiculously rigid! For sure my base Stang rides softer, but it's still sporty enough, feels super solid and now I no longer suffer all the jolts, vibrations and rattles. Ford really nailed the chassis tuning on the S550. Running the stock tune and being quicker than my Strat "Stage 2" FiST doesn't hurt either:)

My mod path will likely lead towards maintaining the performance I currently have. Cp-e intercooler, resonator swap and muffler delete, oem airbox w/Airaid tube & drop-in filter, Radium dual-baffle plate and pcv occ, GFB DV+, 1-step colder plugs, etc. After seeing how it handles the AZ summer heat I might look into an oem PP radiator or aftermarket equivalent.

Sorry for the long story. Just wanted to let y'all know where I'm coming from. Overall, no regrets here.
 
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