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But that check valve is not going to prevent the catch can from being pressurized. You would need to install one in the line between the catch can and intake manifold.


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Now that mine's sealed up, it doesn't bother me that it's pressurized. As long as the crankcase isn't getting 27PSI and my engine bay isn't getting hosed down with oil I'm OK with it as it is.
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
But that check valve is not going to prevent the catch can from being pressurized. You would need to install one in the line between the catch can and intake manifold.


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Which ones the intake manifold? One going from front of engine into can or the one going from can going into block?
 
Which ones the intake manifold? One going from front of engine into can or the one going from can going into block?
The one from the front of the engine I into the catch can. That is the hose you will need to cut and install the check valve if you don't want to be pressurizing the can under boost.

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Discussion starter · #44 ·
Next time my can pressurized and splioshes on my engine cover I’m installing a check valve.

question, I have a clear piece in my hks bov. I think it’s a check valve too. It looks like a spinner toy. Goes between throttle body and hks in the line
 
The one from the front of the engine I into the catch can. That is the hose you will need to cut and install the check valve if you don't want to be pressurizing the can under boost.

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Next time my can pressurized and splioshes on my engine cover I’m installing a check valve.

question, I have a clear piece in my hks bov. I think it’s a check valve too. It looks like a spinner toy. Goes between throttle body and hks in the line
Hey guys. Let's be clear here. "From the engine" or "from the block" can be construed as being the hose from the PCV plate to the can. That's not the hose you want to cut. You want to cut the hose from the "throttle body" to the can. The throttle body also connects right into the intake manifold which is why Dave's original post was correct. Boost pressure will enter the throttle body, go into the PCV hose, and pressurize the can. That causes the misting. If you cut it between the can and the PCV plate, the can still gets pressurized from the boost pressure. Basically, you want to STOP the boost pressure from traveling to the can. Maybe I misread, but just wanted to clarify in my own words. If I'm mistaken, I'm all ears (or....errrrr.....eyes).
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
My new unit is blowing by again, lameness. just found small amount of blow by on engine cover/same exact spot. not sure what im going to do.

what are my options? I threw away the stock hoses that I replaced with the ford perf unit. I mean I dont really care, it blows some by periodically, but id like to not have it happen, and dont want an issue to blow engine up from improper catch can pressure
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
Here is the new replacement from FRPP, no gasket installed but you can see my orange from my car through the gap, through the window.
View attachment 36871

The fix was to rtv it after sanding the surfaces as smooth as possible to close that gap. Its held up well since; but, a pita that we even have to do this...

View attachment 36872


Once the rtv skinned up I bolted the halves together, let it sit overnight and then trimmed the excess rtv with an exacto. Now it just looks like it has a blue accent line around it.

thinking about doing this myself.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
is there any reason why we would ever have to open it? I just drain the oil by pouring it out. is the blue rtv the strongest stuff? what about "the right stuff" they sell at auto zones.


Is there any reason why I shouldn't put a solid beat of sealant on outside, and inside and on top of the green gasket? and put lid on and seal it as a single bead? wouldn't that be the strongest than rtv on the outside of the green gasket?

opinions.
 
is there any reason why we would ever have to open it? I just drain the oil by pouring it out. is the blue rtv the strongest stuff? what about "the right stuff" they sell at auto zones.


Is there any reason why I shouldn't put a solid beat of sealant on outside, and inside and on top of the green gasket? and put lid on and seal it as a single bead? wouldn't that be the strongest than rtv on the outside of the green gasket?

opinions.
Maybe every once in a while it would be worth checking the screen; but, its much quicker to just pour the oil out. I usually make less of a mess just pouring it out vs taking it apart anyway.

This is what I used, Permatex® Ultra Blue® Multipurpose RTV Silicone Gasket Maker I got it at Advance Auto if I recall correctly, odds are AutoZone has it as well. I went with this as my mechanic buddy says it's the best (so hearsay); but, it requires 24 hours to dry before you are supposed to use it (run the car). He uses something else most of the time that dries up quicker. I also went with this since it's a gasket "maker" instead of sealer; it should be better at sealing gaps.

I was looking back at the pictures I took and was wondering the same thing; but, I believe I was concerned about getting gasket maker on the screen/anywhere it could get sucked into the intake/turbo. With only having gasket maker on the outside/up against the green gasket, it's held up at least 8 months without any oil leaks.

Good luck!
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Maybe every once in a while it would be worth checking the screen; but, its much quicker to just pour the oil out. I usually make less of a mess just pouring it out vs taking it apart anyway.

This is what I used, Permatex® Ultra Blue® Multipurpose RTV Silicone Gasket Maker I got it at Advance Auto if I recall correctly, odds are AutoZone has it as well. I went with this as my mechanic buddy says it's the best (so hearsay); but, it requires 24 hours to dry before you are supposed to use it (run the car). He uses something else most of the time that dries up quicker. I also went with this since it's a gasket "maker" instead of sealer; it should be better at sealing gaps.

I was looking back at the pictures I took and was wondering the same thing; but, I believe I was concerned about getting gasket maker on the screen/anywhere it could get sucked into the intake/turbo. With only having gasket maker on the outside/up against the green gasket, it's held up at least 8 months without any oil leaks.

Good luck!
did you put the lid and tighten down instantly or did you let it get hardsh first before putting it on? I was thinking it needs to be semi solid that way it can squeeze down on it or am I wrong?

Thinking of buying "the right stuff" toss a nice solid bead around, put lid down, wipe off the excess let cure overnight. $10 bucks for the gasket maker but no real loss I guess if doesn't work.
 
did you put the lid and tighten down instantly or did you let it get hardsh first before putting it on? I was thinking it needs to be semi solid that way it can squeeze down on it or am I wrong?

Thinking of buying "the right stuff" toss a nice solid bead around, put lid down, wipe off the excess let cure overnight. $10 bucks for the gasket maker but no real loss I guess if doesn't work.
I'd do what the back of the package recommends. It's probably going to say to let it "skin up" before pressing the two halves together; but, they're all a little different. The stuff I got says put the two halves together and finger tighten the bolts, then after an hour torque them down to spec and then wait 24 hours before using it.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
Just put a quick bead of right stuff then tightened it down, ignore the recommends to on the ford thing. Just make it snug. If I did their recommendation I feel Itl snap it. But I just wiped away excess. I think it’s gonna hold. Gonna leave it to cure til Friday inside.
Looks pretty oem using black
38021
38022
38023
38024
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
think 24 hours is fine, or just leave it til tomorrow morning? reason I ask I have car appt tomorrow morning to fix rear alignment a hair. but I wanna drive it today lol. I did that at like 2pm yesterday. since theres an air opening on top and bottom I imagine, the warm house air is going inside the chamber and helping cure from inside too.
 
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