Ford Mustang Ecoboost Forum banner
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
I kind of like using the down paddle shift as an assist while driving about, And with this 10 speed AT it doesn't take much (45 mph +) to be in the 9 or 10th gear, or as I call it, the "free-wheeling" mode.
Anthony you should not be using the AT to slow down the vehicle. This can cause heat and wear to the transmission. AT's automatically select which gear they need to be in at certain speeds. If you put your AT in "Sport" you'll feel at certain RPM's as you're slowing down, the AT is automatically matching the engine speed and transmission speed. You shouldn't use the AT to brake the car.

Occasionally if you want to hold a gear, perhaps on a canyon switch-back road, it's ok... but constantly using the paddles as part of your braking system is only going to shorten the life of your AT.

A long time a go a friend who was a pro-race car driver gave me the same advice as your friend. It's cheaper to replace brakes than a transmission. I have come down 7500ft to 1000 ft canyon switch back passes in Payson, Globe and Flagstaff AZ without playing with the paddles. My brakes never faded and there was not an issue. Occasionally I would knock it down a gear to maintain control (which is something different), but not to slow the car down.

Sport mode is fun for running through the gears, but not for braking.. Even in sport mode the AT is smart enough to select the correct gears for the engine speed. To be honest, I have never really played with the paddles going back to my 08 Malibu LTZ, EB Mustang or my new GT/CA which has the 10 sp at.

As far as Engine Braking, etc, Engineering Explained has some good videos...
 
Go Further I surely am confused and not connecting the dots here. For example I stop at a light and just idling, gear still in Drive, if I let off of the brake the EB will start to move forward, meaning that the AT is still engaged. Am I missing something????
It doesn't have a clutch but it does have a torque converter. Explained by a very young Jason:

 
For my 05 GT, which is manual, I've been trying to learn the art of rev-matching... Very difficult.... So instead, I kind of know where the shift points should be, respective engine speed / transmission speed, and have always just moved down gears at acceptable RPM levels when slowing down or coming to a stop.

I never do the clutch in, don't want to burn that up, or I have occasionally gone to neutral, mainly out of being distracted and multi-tasking not a strong suit. You know, the old "can't find em', grind em'" thing.. So easier just to kick it to neutral and regroup after coffee...

For the AT cars, I let the automatic do it's job. It does it far better than I can, especially on shifting. I find modern AT's can shift faster than I could with a paddle.

My buddy Mario who pro-races in CA, and was even on that new show on Netflix... told me a long time ago to not bother with the paddles. The only time paddles are fun is in a true PDK, i.e. Audi R8 or AMG 63... The GT500 will have a PDK and paddles will be necessary. (or at least more fun). But for our AT's in our Mustangs... Paddles are there as a courtesy.
 
For my 05 GT, which is manual, I've been trying to learn the art of rev-matching... Very difficult.... So instead, I kind of know where the shift points should be, respective engine speed / transmission speed, and have always just moved down gears at acceptable RPM levels when slowing down or coming to a stop.

I never do the clutch in, don't want to burn that up, or I have occasionally gone to neutral, mainly out of being distracted and multi-tasking not a strong suit. You know, the old "can't find em', grind em'" thing.. So easier just to kick it to neutral and regroup after coffee...

For the AT cars, I let the automatic do it's job. It does it far better than I can, especially on shifting. I find modern AT's can shift faster than I could with a paddle.

My buddy Mario who pro-races in CA, and was even on that new show on Netflix... told me a long time ago to not bother with the paddles. The only time paddles are fun is in a true PDK, i.e. Audi R8 or AMG 63... The GT500 will have a PDK and paddles will be necessary. (or at least more fun). But for our AT's in our Mustangs... Paddles are there as a courtesy.
paul_g, I agree with your take on AT car shifting. I do not use the up paddle shift, only the down paddle shift. Otherwise the 10 speed AT on my EB does a good job with up shifting.
 
Anthony you should not be using the AT to slow down the vehicle. This can cause heat and wear to the transmission. AT's automatically select which gear they need to be in at certain speeds. If you put your AT in "Sport" you'll feel at certain RPM's as you're slowing down, the AT is automatically matching the engine speed and transmission speed. You shouldn't use the AT to brake the car.

Occasionally if you want to hold a gear, perhaps on a canyon switch-back road, it's ok... but constantly using the paddles as part of your braking system is only going to shorten the life of your AT.

A long time a go a friend who was a pro-race car driver gave me the same advice as your friend. It's cheaper to replace brakes than a transmission. I have come down 7500ft to 1000 ft canyon switch back passes in Payson, Globe and Flagstaff AZ without playing with the paddles. My brakes never faded and there was not an issue. Occasionally I would knock it down a gear to maintain control (which is something different), but not to slow the car down.

Sport mode is fun for running through the gears, but not for braking.. Even in sport mode the AT is smart enough to select the correct gears for the engine speed. To be honest, I have never really played with the paddles going back to my 08 Malibu LTZ, EB Mustang or my new GT/CA which has the 10 sp at.

As far as Engine Braking, etc, Engineering Explained has some good videos...
paul_g, I will tale your advice and TRY to lay off using the paddle shift for slowing the vehicle down. Only in the Sport mode does the transmission "hold" a gear when using the paddles. In Drive the gear change is only momentary. Oh well, back to sedentary driving.
 
I generally paddle shift only on my commute where the A10 seems to like to stay in 10th even though my speed is dropping off and I’m coming around a huge, raised, uphill ramp where traffic usually slows down to 50 mph or less. In D, the engine is barely turning 1200 rpm, so I tap to bring the revs up to around 1800. The trans usually stays there long enough until I’m coming down the now downhill backside of the ramp and then shifts up on its own.
 
I put 100k on a Ford AODe and 230k on a Honda automatic trans, using the o/d button to slow the car.
 
I generally paddle shift only on my commute where the A10 seems to like to stay in 10th even though my speed is dropping off and I’m coming around a huge, raised, uphill ramp where traffic usually slows down to 50 mph or less. In D, the engine is barely turning 1200 rpm, so I tap to bring the revs up to around 1800. The trans usually stays there long enough until I’m coming down the now downhill backside of the ramp and then shifts up on its own.
JohnnyBee, that is exactly how I use the paddle shift in D.
 
Going back to the OP. The only thing I would say to avoid would be keeping your foot down on the clutch and keeping it in gear for a long time during a stop. If I have understood correctly when you keep your foot down on a clutch you will eventually will get premature wear on some part of the mechanism (I am not an engineer or a mechanic as you can tell). Now I drove a Saab for 170,000 miles on the same clutch so I must have done something right. Now as far as weather to down shift or coast, I say its whatever the traffic requires. I try to do the least amount of shifting possible when necessary. If the traffic allows, I go from 1st, 3rd, 6th. When I down shift, 3rd gear will take you right to 5 mph before it stalls so if, I can, I'll keep in in 3rd to allow me to respond to traffic. There is enough torque that at 10 to 15 mph I will be able to move, if not then I have 2nd gear. What I love about manuals is that it requires you to think ahead and make decisions based on the traffic and how you want to drive and respond to the traffic or lack thereof. This is why manuals are so fun to drive. Interestingly, I don't find the Ecoboost as a great performer with regard to engine breaking or maybe I am waiting too long to stop and will have to change my brakes prematurely, but I digress. My last 2 VW Jetta Sportwagens went to 70,000 miles with the factory brakes. Enjoy your car. I am in 6 months, 13,000 miles and can't get enough.
 
If I have understood correctly when you keep your foot down on a clutch you will eventually will get premature wear on some part of the mechanism
Primarily the throw-out bearing. Imagine the leverage afforded you through the long clutch pedal arm, combined with the hydraulic advantage. All of that load is being applied to a bearing that can be held in the palm of your hand. That, and that same force is pushing the crankshaft forward against a plain-faced main bearing. There's no need to subject the pieces to that for any longer than what it takes to get things rolling.

Nathan
 
As others have said it's really your personal preference, but I prefer the coast to stop method for a couple reasons. essentially your deciding between using your clutch more often or your brakes, and I'd rather replace my brake pads than a new clutch. This can be minimized by rev-matching but you're still using the clutch more often. Also coasting to a stop brings your engine down to idle so I like to think its better for mileage too.
Keep in mind that when you place your car in neutral you are still using fuel to keep it running at idle, but when you slow to a stop while still in gear, fuel delivery shuts off, a definate benefit of fuel injection. You can verify this by monitoring your miles per gallon gauge in both neutral and in gear with foot off the gas pedal as you coast.
 
Primarily the throw-out bearing. Imagine the leverage afforded you through the long clutch pedal arm, combined with the hydraulic advantage. All of that load is being applied to a bearing that can be held in the palm of your hand. That, and that same force is pushing the crankshaft forward against a plain-faced main bearing. There's no need to subject the pieces to that for any longer than what it takes to get things rolling.

Nathan
Yes, definitely a throw-out bearing concern. You don't have to coast up to a stop in neutral but you shouldn't be sitting at a light with your foot on the clutch. That said, in Ontario, anyone foolish enough to take a driver's license test with a manual will be docked for sitting with the car in neutral. "You cannot move immediately in an emergency situation" the tester will say. Clutch components be damned! The tester, of course, does not have any liability for shortening the life of your car's mechanicals.

On a related note, MGB owners are advised to start their engines with the transmission in neutral and foot off the clutch, in addition to not sitting with the car in gear and the clutch disengaged. Why? The throw-out bearing isn't even a bearing, its a giant washer made out of, for all intents and purposes, very hard pencil lead. To boot, when you engage and disengage the clutch the "bearing" also slides across the surface laterally because of the arc motion of the arm. Works, but very prone to wear and failure if abused even in the slightest.
 
...in Ontario, anyone foolish enough to take a driver's license test with a manual will be docked for sitting with the car in neutral. "You cannot move immediately in an emergency situation" the tester will say. Clutch components be damned! The tester, of course, does not have any liability for shortening the life of your car's mechanicals.
Idaho's driver's tester docked my son for not applying the emergency brake upon parking the car that has an automatic! When was the last time anyone drove a car that would allow you to park without having it left in "Park"? 'Last time I checked, putting it in Park pretty much locks everything in place. I suppose the driveshaft could fall out anytime...
 
Idaho's driver's tester docked my son for not applying the emergency brake upon parking the car that has an automatic! When was the last time anyone drove a car that would allow you to park without having it left in "Park"? 'Last time I checked, putting it in Park pretty much locks everything in place. I suppose the driveshaft could fall out anytime...
Idaho tester going strictly by the book and no common sense needed. But this is a new world out there. If manual transmission, YES.
 
Idaho's driver's tester docked my son for not applying the emergency brake upon parking the car that has an automatic! When was the last time anyone drove a car that would allow you to park without having it left in "Park"? 'Last time I checked, putting it in Park pretty much locks everything in place. I suppose the driveshaft could fall out anytime...
I always apply the parking break even with automatics. I got in the habit for two reasons. My first car I never used the e-brake or parking brake and the line seized up.

The second reason was when we bought our first house the drive-way was on an incline. I never liked how the car rolled forward and bounced a few times after putting it in park and removing my foot off the brake pedal. I also disliked how I had to "pull" it into drive or reverse, as if it were caught on soemthing. My car wasn't the only one, my wifes car did the same.

Because of this, I found that by coming to a stop, applying the parking brake, then putting the car in park, then remove my foot off the brakes, the vehicle stopped rolling forward nor did I have use force to put it into gear. It felt more appropriate, and probably better for the parking mechanism in the auto-tranny.

Since then, I use it all the time without even thinking about it. It's just normal for me to pull up on the lever before removing my foot off the regular brakes. It's a habit for my wife now to. She always uses it.
 
My first car I never used the e-brake or parking brake and the line seized up.
I get around that in both the manual and auto, in that I hate sitting for the horrifically long traffic lights around here, so I pull the easily-accessible handbrake while I wait (and wait, and wait, and wait...)

...I found that by coming to a stop, applying the parking brake, then putting the car in park, then remove my foot off the brakes, the vehicle stopped rolling forward nor did I have use force to put it into gear. It felt more appropriate, and probably better for the parking mechanism in the auto-tranny.
You're absolutely right! Not having had a steeply inclined driveway for many years, I'd forgotten about that. I used to do that myself! Of everything I've lost, it's my mind I miss the most...

Nathan
 
I always apply the parking break even with automatics. I got in the habit for two reasons. My first car I never used the e-brake or parking brake and the line seized up.

The second reason was when we bought our first house the drive-way was on an incline. I never liked how the car rolled forward and bounced a few times after putting it in park and removing my foot off the brake pedal. I also disliked how I had to "pull" it into drive or reverse, as if it were caught on soemthing. My car wasn't the only one, my wifes car did the same.
One must remember that the park pawl in an automatic transmission is really not that robust and should not be relied upon to hold the vehicle, particularly on a steep grade. You may recall that the actor who played Chekhov in the newer Star Trek movies died because his vehicle rolled away (apparently not "fully" in park) and killed him. In the last six months here in Toronto, a child was injured at a school drop off because someone exited their vehicle and thought it was in park and it rolled away. Both of these instances would have been avoided with the use of the e-brake. I use it as a matter of habit and have been doing so for years, even in my cars with manual transmissions, which I habitually left in gear as well. Additionally, if you are parked and someone pulls into a spot and hits your car hard enough to move it, the e-brake will lessen the potential for any damage to the transmission, as the locked rear wheels prevents them from transmitting that push into the transmission via the driveshaft.
 
21 - 37 of 37 Posts